How To Improve At Crimps: Blockhelden Training Ep.1 | Climbing Daily Ep.1568

[@paddyoneill3243]

Cue the ruptured a2 pulleys after the last exercise 😂

[@nickbedford]

paddy oneill and synovitis flare ups 😅

[@paddyoneill3243]

@@nickbedford I got swelling in my knuckle reading that 😂

[@maxrauber7739]

wtf have I just watched How on earth can you make a training video on one of the most watched climbing KZbin channels and do something like this?!?!? The first exercises are kind of entry level and save to do BUT the last one ?!?!? Not only is the risk of injury really high (which is not mentioned once) but also is it shown with quite bad form which ads quite a lot to the risk. You can clearly see that Luzia is not able to du the exercise with both hands at the same time and can't even do the exercise in the second repetition this is an example of when you shouldn't do this exercise since your just not at the level jet. And even if you have the power it doesn't mean that this is save than since your tendons and ligerments ned to adjust to such a force which takes way longer than for the muscels. I even read some articels where some trainers said the efficiency of this exercise doesn't make up for it's risk of injuries. And by the way the second exercise is mostly about lock-off stength and targets the fingerst but more the shoulders (but still a really good exercise) Oh and sorry for my bad english in advanced

[@miloarlinghaus9317]

Can you do a video on how to avoid pulley injuries

[@PLMedia]

Avoid the Full Crimp. Warm Up Properly. Let loose of the Crimp in Case your foot slips.

[@paddyoneill3243]

Warm up with soft putty and do rice bucket at least 2 times a week

[@paddyoneill3243]

@Erratum sorry should have explained its a bucket as deep as your elbows and you want 7/8 kg of dry rice inside it and you do resistance exercises in it which include things like grabbing or flicking the rice it works your grip and for arms there's tonnes of work outs on KZbin to watch

[@paddyoneill3243]

@Erratum yeah it's great for rehab and preventing injuries and also conditioning which I didn't believe at first

[@alexgalays910]

tip 1: Don't follow this very video.

[@Fred-oz3tw]

Last one seems very risky for getting injuries.

[@jonmurua]

Is it really worth training full crimps considering the risk of injury? Does it get any benefit than just training half crimps?

[@simonpwhittle]

Sorry love the channel but with the amount of high quality training advice out there this video is really bad, the last exercise is a terrible idea

[@HJ-od6ph]

like said previously the last exercise is just good to break your A2 pulley, every trainers knows that crimp to full crimp is a really bad idea

[@clkb8277]

The music you added is a really nice touch

[@dariovillavicencio5304]

Nice video, even for not beginner climbers. Awesome👌🏼

[@markusosanen4525]

Last exercise too risky in my opinion! :O

[@aakashbisht9]

I need this thanks and I am so excited for next

[@jamestunstall3681]

Awful advice unless you want 6 weeks off for recovery of a ruptured pully tendons, such a shame epic TV are putting out such bad advice this video should be removed before people mess up the fingers.

[@matthewjones3852]

Not surprised the floodgates have opened on this one. This belongs on "Dave's mega-climbing-strength-tutorial" with 5 hits, not on epic that I have previously regarded as a pretty good source. Very poor that someone with a bit of nouse didn't weed out the 3rd one there. Flooded market anyway...

[@ejl74]

Dope!

[@09tclarke]

Who's campus boards have space for feet

[@rochoddo5380]

Last exercise is great for advanced climber, i do it quite often, but yes it is very injury prone i would guess, as full crimp hangboarding and other stuff usefull later on. But this woman is nowhere near strong enough to do it feetless tho, she can just barely bump one hand into a crimp then the other instead of pulling through a smooth motion like she did with feet on. Terrible form. If you are not strong enough to do that feetless you probably have much safer means to improve. There is much better content out there, this lacked a lot of context (when to do it, why one exercise and not the other, how hard to go etc...).

[@ultraseal9193]

Please take this video down to prevent injuries. Nothing in this video was remotely useful for beginning climbers. Too little was done to explain what a half-crimp is, nor how one should properly warm up for a hangboard. #1: Explain what a warm up could look like Doing push ups and running in place will get the heart beating, but won't prepare the fingers. Doing tendon glides and recruitment pulls on the board will. #2: Explain how people should start with a comfortable weight and take off weight if the exercise is too hard. Many beginners should take off weight to do a proper half-crimp (and not a 4 finger open-hand), even me after 3 years of climbing I had to take off 5kgs to do a half-crimp on good holds. #3: WTF is exercise number three?!

[@Joe.484]

How to improve crimps - climb a lot of crimps? Problem solved.

[@damiensmith8351]

Yeah, some people can't climb as often as others, and things like this can be done at home without the need for a climbing wall full of crimp routes, not hard to set up a campus rung and some small edges.

[@MF-CLIMB]

Crimpin ain’t easy

[@Sepp2009]

last exercise seems interesing, gotta try that

[@aakashbisht9]

I need this thanks and I am so excited for next