The Edelrid Ohmega: A MONUMENTAL Shift In Belaying | Climbing Daily Ep. 2454

[@NokturnalMonstrum]

I don't comprehend how it works; waiting for Hard is Easy video about it

[@johnny-wm4uo]

My understanding is, that it is springloaded to be open. If there is a force on the first draw, the lever is rotated, pinches the rope and adds friction. The different setting are achived by having a smaller or larger lever.

[@PetegNZ]

Edeldid by far the most innovative company in the industry currently.

[@frederikfahr9909]

I don’t think so, they use the ideas of Petzl and then improve them a little, for example spoc and pinch

[@procerator]

@@frederikfahr9909 dude Edelrid were the ones that basically created modern climbing rope, chest harness, twin rope principle and rope that floats. They also created GigaJul - the only autotuber device that can be switched between manual and blocking-assisted mode. Sure, for pinch and spoc they clearly took inspiration from Petzl offerings but you can't say they just copied those products.

[@mikafull]

​@@frederikfahr9909 you say this about almost everything. Tubes, quickdraws, ropes and my other thinks. So to change some things on a already existing thing makes it not a copy

[@loltonstoryson6596]

This is absolutely right, Petzl is coasting on their past innovations, but edelrid is not stopping the innovation.

[@juans795]

Totally!

[@vbregier]

As a heavier-than-average climber with no fixed partner, I love my ohm. This device looks like it solves most of the issues of the ohm (which is a great device in terms of safety when climbing with a lighter belayer, but an awful device in terms of comfort. I would never use it when the weight difference does not require it) Can’t wait to try this ohmega ! You sold me at it including a pulley !

[@rockcycle824]

Tip for the marketing team: if I'm 4 minutes into the video and still don't know what the product actually is or what it does, I'm closing the video. It's not a quickdraw, because it's not an Ohm. But it kind of is? Is this a belay device? what is going on?

[@simonkreutz4049]

kzbin.infoKBHI-fd9jhQ?si=X2id4xyqqGAHwcXJ

[@JoseRojas-tq4zw]

4:10 lol

[@ShurikB93]

Ohmega As an electrician engineer it is really pushing my buttons

[@DuBCraft21]

You have to admit, it is a kinda clever self pun though!

[@mtrakal]

I really don't know, why Mr. Georg Simon Ohm was not clever enough to use Ohmega to name it :D. If Ohm uses Omega symbol, that's self explained... Ohm with sign Omega > Ohmega. Hmm, maybe because naming it later MegaOhmega sougs a bit weird, ok :). Good for Mr. Ohm.

[@jarrodpelphrey1196]

This looks awesome but it also makes it a bit frustrated that I just bought the newer ohm. Why even update the original ohm if they are making one that makes the old style ohm pointless.

[@davinderc]

Only available in August 2025. Looks like they scrambled to respond to the zæd that provides less resistance when pulling up rope and allows for dynamic catches with adjustable weight difference

[@pooyoukun]

I’m in the exact same situation. Pretty frustrating.

[@neilgorman9325]

@@pooyoukunwhat I don’t like about this one is it doesn’t have the option to rotate. I use the original ohm. This being on a pulley is huge.

[@johnny-wm4uo]

@@neilgorman9325 They are probably trying to save weight as this has often been citicized with the Ohm. Also I think adding a swivel would interfere with the resistance adjustment.

[@jarrodpelphrey1196]

@@davinderclol that makes sense. Phillips always seems frustrated when trying to explain the product. In the video where he was saying "yes the pinch has the same mechanism as the gri gri," he came off as quite irritated

[@benwolpert]

After my hopes with the Ohm were met dissappointment, I can honestly say I am looking forward to this. My partner and I are 65 lbs (about 25kg) different in weight. We both saw the Ohm as a great idea and we tried it. However, there were many drawbacks that, to us, we decided it was less safe to use the Ohm. We found it difficult to make soft catches. I was getting slammed into the wall and my ankles were getting beat up by the impact force. Along with that, it would get caught up while clipping. I was excited at the idea of not taking excessively long falls. My partner was excited about the prospect of not being pulled into and up the wall. Especially outdoors where there are so many objects that she could get pulled into and hurt by. We just decided to give up on the Ohm after our first day with it. I am so excited to see Edelrid has not given up on improving belaying. If this device really works as well as they say it does, I can not wait to get my hands on it. I would love to take reasonble falls with my partner and not have to worry about her getting yanked too hard up or into the wall. Thank you Edelrid for your continued work and persistance. I am looking forward to trying this product out!

[@thomasbahr2806]

I am forced to use the ohm when climbing together with my wife, but the rope drag is quite awfull due to the increased friction so I am really looking forward to this new solution, will probably buy it and test it.

[@ZoniacMan]

Edelrid is my favorite climbing brand.

[@wredc3]

With the camming action, I just wonder if there’s any concern for this to lock up under any failure mode (e.g clipped wrong, or used with too thick, wet or dirty ropes) and create a factor 2 fall scenario.

[@rexfok]

As a super light weight climber/belayer, ohm has helped me a lot, hope a new generation ohm makes much more better

[@dryaldibread2327]

"It does turn" Amazingly talented test-engineer

[@TheBananaLoverorignal]

Might be useful to have a proper explanation for it lmao, this was a bit of random chatter, i'm confused lmao.

[@millennium581]

From my understanding of what they were talking about, it's an ohm that can be adjusted for weight and allows the rope to feed with less resistance while climbing. Does that make sense?

[@MS-fg8qo]

Nice, Edelrid! Most innovative climbing company!

[@Jeff-tc1tr]

Excited to try this :) Great video

[@raymondpeterdelacruz4849]

Great Job! Can’t wait to try it out!

[@jabba258]

One huge downside of the ohm is that it‘s heavily dependent on the position of the belayer. I know of a few accidents where the Ohm didn‘t catch due to the position of the belayer. I dont quite get whether that has been adressed as well here.

[@lb259]

Can you be more specific?

[@johnny-wm4uo]

My understanding is, that it is springloaded to be open. If there is a force on the first draw, the lever is rotated, pinches the rope and adds friction. The different setting are achived by having a smaller or larger lever. This means it might not engage if the belayer is directly underneath the first draw.

[@ninjach1]

​@lb259 the ohm work best when the belayer is standing a little further back from the 1st bolt than is normal. It changes the angle of the rope and the ohm engages earlier, compared to when the belayer is standing directly under or close to the 1st draw.

[@jskemp4]

The ohm said it wasn’t to be used in trad. Can I use this? Like attached to a cam in a horizontal crack?

[@Iminfire]

Could it be used as a cache loop management device for LRS ? Seems perfect considering the cam and pulley design.

[@breezyillo2101]

170g is pretty light too...

[@jarrodpelphrey1196]

That's what I was thinking, it might add enough friction that it causes the belay device to engage before you make it to the clove hit hitch. I'll be interested in see home much pinch the cam has, because it would have to be quite a bit to slow high fall forces.

[@CorriXGaming]

Nice product! And well that's the death of the Ohm II... very unfortunate for me to have bought it so recently... could have waited for August 2025 .. 😅

[@guillermosanchezdionis9475]

Exciting! really hope it is better at soft caching than the Ohm

[@vbregier]

The ohm is pretty good at hard catching 🙂

[@stevenbaggett3691]

have you tried a raed zaed?

[@kazud.5793]

Really interested in that, my gf weights 15kg less and the +10kg could be life changer for my climbing. The first 3 quick draws are most of the time a 100% of smacking each other...

[@neilramontown9903]

Teach her how to belay. My wife us 20 kg lighter than me and not a single problem after 30 years if climbing together 😉

[@kazud.5793]

@@neilramontown9903 interesting, in 2 years indoor climbing we had 2 smackings already, that keeps me out of trying hard and exposed projects :/ I wonder how you manage to deal with this

[@Arnau_climbs]

It will be so useful for you!

[@Dashcam_cam_videos]

I like my ohm. I’ve never had an issue when I’m belaying or climbing with my ohm

[@leolegrimpeur]

As a teacher I would like the material to have 2 different colored faces in order to quickly see if my students have placed the ohm well and soon the Omega I hope

[@xyzphyl]

How does the device distinguish between a fall and the climber pulling out rope fast for clipping? It probably cant so the climber is not allowed to clip fast?

[@MrShakezpeare]

Out in august 25?? Why? It seems to be ready. My guess: they don’t want it competing with the latest Ohm update.

[@SteveSBlake]

Does it have to be clipped directly to bolt, or can it be extended?

[@pampuch65]

Pretty nice video to watch, nice talk.

[@BlackStoriesAuthor]

Would love to by it but.... 😞 Anybody any idea / link / shop...

[@dailyclimbing]

its not out yet...next SS 🙌

[@Ashclimbs]

Looks great 👏

[@MrBadgers]

Sounds like a Dynamic Friction Device or weight difference compensation device

[@breezyillo2101]

I know there are sometimes legality issues around recommending a piece of gear for LRS but... blink twice if you think this could help soften a fall in LRS 😮

[@jarrodpelphrey1196]

As a cash loop? It wound have to be before the grigri/pinch before it could soften the fall. If you use it as a piece of gear and you don't have any back feeding I don't see how it could soften it. I'm not super into lrs so maybe there is a method that I don't know about.

[@breezyillo2101]

@@jarrodpelphrey1196 nah, if you have it on say.. your 2nd or 3rd bolt with a little slack between this and the ground anchor. Essentially a screamer that pinches rather than exploding. But I'm not familiar enough with these resistance devices to know what sort of forces are needed *below* the device to properly engage on a fall

[@jakobmelchior6701]

Why not just use a bungee shock absorber?

[@breezyillo2101]

@@jakobmelchior6701 hmm, never thought of that. On what? Like make a draw with a bungee and clip it to a fig 8 at the 2nd bolt? Or the anchor?

[@jodelboy]

@@breezyillo2101 the thing is that if you just have "a little slack between this and the ground anchor" there is no tension on the rope until the rope is tight, which means that all your slack runs through the Ohmega (because it needs a bit of tension for the cam to be engaged) before your anchor engages and at that point it's just pointless.

[@MaciekDrozd]

For multipitch I would need two of them. Moreover twin rope is probably too thin for this device. Sorry, no place in my rack for 340g two belay assistents.

[@RichardLonski]

Unlike the Ohm, the Ohmega looks like it may be usable with trad. What is Edelrid's recommendation on its use with trad?

[@QuentinLeCalvez]

This video is missing an introduction? Am I supposed to know what that thing is?...

[@gisgier]

I heard Honnold used it for his last free solo and loved it!

[@vincentkrause7097]

How?

[@JustinReidUK]

Came to this video excited to hear about new gear. Totally confused and no idea what it is, its purpose or how to use it. I probably need to rewatch to discover hidden hints and meaning but life is too short and there’s climbing to be done.

[@tacul9333]

Watched the video from start to finish. Still have no idea what this is or how it is used.

[@mtrakal]

Just look on some Edelrid Ohm videos, but sure, it's not clear when you don't know about current product on market. Not a good marketing, but looks like it will be a great product :)

[@daanschone1548]

Sounds really promising

[@kevedwards]

Sooo, am I right in thinking this could be used with slightly sketchy belayers or with belayers were the trust has not been earned yet! and it will compensate if someone gives a bad catch or if they let go of the brake hand while belaying? Sounds like it could be a decent backup to help with confidence. I’ve been dropped before so it takes a long time for me to trust belayers and there’s only about 3 I am 100000% confident with were I don’t think at all about falling, everyone else I hold myself back a bit, hopefully this device can help with that.

[@johnny-wm4uo]

I think they said it cannot lock, so you would still fall to the ground, albeit slightly slower.

[@psakievich1]

Real talk. You gonna drop an ohgiga 6 months from now with even more features? What are you holding out on???

[@apeiron1984]

innovation = Edelrid

[@mingye3893]

wow,will buy it for sure. coz ohm is so good but I think it's too heavy

[@metaller1317]

I hate climbing and belaying with the Ohm because it's so uncomfortable. Even with a belayer who is 30kg or more lighter than me (which happens quite often as I weigh clcose to 100kg) I'd choose not to use it and just do a "friction clip" and never had any issues with that and all of my belayers feel the same. I will try the Ohmega, but so far I don't really see a reason to use any device to add friction

[@FragCool]

Let's see if this is better then "Der Bauer" I have the original Ohm, but I simple prefer Der Bauer much more, just the better device

[@yvineikeland8734]

It is crazy that you did not include a brief introduction showing what the device actually does. 10 minutes of talking and almost no action.

[@dailyclimbing]

We kept the action for the following episodes 😉

[@Roro-BX]

How much ? 100 euros ?

[@mattevans9878]

Tuned in to learn about the device, leaving due to the unending elevator music.

[@ZippO3000]

where is the belaying?

[@jgn2112]

This is annoying. Edelrid has a habit of producing absolutely top tier products, putting out professional, high quality videos about them, with zero demonstrations on how to properly use it. Say what you will about Black Diamond, their video on how to properly use their Pilot ATC was awesome. That's great. It's innovative. It works. Do a "how to" video on how you use it properly.

[@drstrangelove85]

Not sure why they didn't call it the Ohm 2.0. It looks great but it's just a new Ohm. The pulley is just needed as the permanent friction would otherwise be too high in the 20 and 30 kg config.

[@Zelpnir]

maybe because there is already a 2nd iteration of the ohm

[@geometerfpv2804]

It's completely different operating principle. The Ohm doesn't use a cam. This thing is closest to a Neox.

[@johnny-wm4uo]

It is springloaded to be open and only engages when there is a force applied to the first draw.

[@zacharylaschober]

Failing to see the value when there is not a significant weight disparity which causes safety concerns, which then this is merely an updated Ohm. Reduces friction through the equipped draw without the safety compromise, and does a nebulous something to make the task of belayer easier, but then there is another potential brake in the system which cannot be managed by the belayer. Every single belay device where you're not supposed to interact with the device, I have engaged while clipping, and here is one where you cannot interact with the device but wants to be sold for a broader use case. No thanks.

[@masongatz2810]

Seems oddly familiar to the zaed lmao

[@jodelboy]

it's not, the Zaed (as well as the two Ohm-generations and the Zorro) is a "passive" device with no moving parts while the Ohmega has a cam plus a pulley-wheel

[@masongatz2810]

@@jodelboy it is

[@die_hertz]

Why do we have to wait till 2025 :-(

[@derekcraig3617]

I don't get it. my favorite belayers are 50lbs less than me. softest catches ever. the ohm always gave hard catches. i hate it

[@adrianodesouza4129]

They probably give soft catches because they’re being yanked up the wall 😂

[@scherry2900]

Depends on the route . When you have long run outs in which you create enough force it can be dangerous for a to light belayer. Z clipping a nearby route is not always possible.

[@zofialorys5819]

Are you their favourite partner though 😂?

[@johnwesely]

Failing to see how this is fundamentally different than the Ohm.

[@vbregier]

the fact that it has a pulley and is spring loaded means that when not catching a fall, it creates less friction than a quickdraw. So it will make a more comfortable climbing experience. As opposed to the ohm which make a less comfortable (but safer, that’s why we use it !) climbing experience.

[@johnny-wm4uo]

The Ohm does not provide a smooth resistance while falling and tends to chatch on the rope while clipping.

[@melkorWTF]

@@vbregier They changed how it works to remove the drawbacks of the Ohm, but it still has the exact same purpose, there is no new purpose or use case. Hence it is a "better Ohm". Which is fine, I don't get why they want to sell it as something different.

[@vbregier]

@@melkorWTF maybe they did add new purpose. I don’t know yet, this video is not a full review of the product. I it’s only usable as was shown in the video, then yes I agree with you, it’s still an interesting product, but this title is over-marketing. It’s still very early in the announcements, we’ll see in a few months if there are other uses. (note that this video already has hints that it’s not just for belaying a heavier climber)

[@rockclimbinghacks9222]

I'll spare you the math, but this device has the potential to make falls at first bolt way worse than they would be with a regular draw.

[@safirith]

So it's a copy of the Raed Zaed.

[@procerator]

They function completely differently. If we are to compare - Raed Zaed is a copy of Bauer Seilbremse ZORRO. Also, Raed Zaed Titanium is 300g and supports ropes from 8.9mm compared to 170g and 8.6mm on Ohmega.

[@Matandfun]

It's a self belay device for anyone under 60 pounds is what I'm hearing. Perfect for children!

[@BradHewson]

Don't buy from epic tv , I paid for shoes in full they are refusing to send worst climbing shop i have ever used to buy gear from!!!! 😡😡😡😡😡😡

[@davidemodanese7712]

August 2025

[@Hotzenplotz0701]

Mini neox

[@Imbahi]

can't focus much , she is so distracting ;)

[@larsandersson5974]

Looks like an awesome product, horrible presentation though.

[@neilramontown9903]

Yeah, good idea to spend money, add weight to the bag, and distract the belayer 👍

[@apoorvpro]

Sorry what are you talking about

[@SteveMcMief]

Hey Edelrid, would you like to improve your English even more? B in climber is silent. No would in an if clause. Besides that, I'm really looking forward to testing your new device. Keep up the great work of innovation and also explaining to us.

[@bonefishboards]

Just another way to make fun of gym climbers at the trad crag.

[@sniperrecon676]

See it's funny because gym climbers get to make fun of trad climbers at work in the ICU lmao

[@schulme123]

"Make fun of gym climbers"...says all I need to know about you.

[@jakoblandes]

either you have a heavy girlfriend or non...