How to Resurface and Square A Radial Arm Saw Top

[@flashgordon6238]

There was one of these on Craigslist for free! The guy's father bought it from Ward's in 1972 and it had all the accessories and manuals. Drum sander, grinder/buffer arbor, router collet, sanding disk, buffing pads and a planer head. I already had a DeWalt B/D 7770, but the nice thing about these Powr-Kraft is the accessory output shafts where it reads Powr-Panel. The lower shaft runs at 3450 RPM - same as the sawblade for sanding, grinding, buffing and drilling... but the other one on top runs at 20,000 RPM! Perfect for router bits if you have the accessory collet, which came with the machine I got. I just happened to pick up a metal tackle box full of wood shaper cutting heads at a swapmeet a few years ago and they fit the 20K adapter perfectly. Another nice feature of these Ward's saws it the height adjustment, miter release, and the table locks are right in front of the machine - no reaching over the back. I have it set up for routing and sanding and have since picked up my third Radial Arm Saw: A DeWalt MBF from the mid-1950s that I've been lusting after. The Powr-Kraft line was made by a company called ToolKraft Corp. in Waterbury, CT. for Wards.

[@Kathyskollectables]

Do these saws have the same kiss of death the Craftsman saws have? Can't keep them square!

[@flashgordon6238]

@@Kathyskollectables That's a pretty involved answer. The simple answer is no, but all saws are dangerous, however the Craftsman ones were at the top of the "race to the bottom" where cheaper and lighter materials were used. This moved away from heavy, solid, and stable cast iron RAS to ones that did not hold their adjustments. There are many more adjustments on RAS than on a table saw. All my machines are heavy duty and stable including the Ward's machine built by ToolKraft tool company back east. My three other RAS are DeWalt units from the 50s to the early 70s.

[@capti443]

Wow, did that bring back memories! My Dad had that exact saw (without any key lock on top of the trigger handle) and it was the first woodworking tool I used. Dang thing was LOUD too as I recall with the blade ringing. Very few safety features to be sure. Still have all 10 fingers! Gave it away to a friend many years later as I got a decent table saw and other tools. He's still got it an uses it too. Thanks!!

[@DarinBeard]

It WAS loud. I also gave this one away recently. Thanks and I am glad you enjoyed the video.

[@Ange1ofD4rkness]

I inherited one of these that was my grandfathers and the table was pretty much missing. This is a whole new device to me, so this is really helpful on what I need to do, to rebuild my table

[@DarinBeard]

I am really glad it helped. That makes me happy.

[@YouCanMakeThisToo]

Nice project, I liked your opening montage. And good call on the track, I’m a big fan of clamp tracks.

[@DarinBeard]

Thanks, Caleb. I love that opening. I saw your table with all the t-track in it. Inspired me. :)

[@baileym43ish]

i'm really glad i found this video. i have this same saw. your walkthrough replacing the surface is nice. you should do another video showing how to square the blade up to the table and the arm to the fence. the instruction manual is ok, but watching a video is so much better.

[@DarinBeard]

Thank you. I am glad it was helpful. Maybe I will do one on the squaring adjustments.

[@mcween18]

Yes please do a video on squaring the fence/blade!

[@ryanwiederstein702]

Great video. I picked up a similar saw in a trade deal and man is it heavy. It is a model TRT-2313, I've no clue as to the age. This setup video helped quite a bit. My saw platform is like new with no cuts in it, it had some 1/8 inch masonite on which is trashed. There are a couple of knobs that I'm not certain their function yet and I picked up a new blade. The saw is very clean and solid but needs lubed up and such. I need to build or buy a table/bench for it first.

[@DarinBeard]

Nice. I am glad the video helped. There aren't too many radial arm saw fans out there anymore. Have fun.

[@budlloyd3127]

this is literally the exact video I've been trying to find to replace my table for my radial arm saw lol, thank you sir! you've got yourself another subscriber! (I also really like your station with the miter saw as well)

[@DarinBeard]

It makes me happy that some stuff I did helped you. That is my ultimate goal. Thank you.

[@budlloyd3127]

@@DarinBeardI can't wait to actually get my saw back to a table that's level and smooth, it looks about as bad as yours at the beginning of the video!

[@lightningfast4657]

I just inherited the same "Wards Powr-Kraft 10in Radial Arm Saw" (sic)... Would you please do a maintenance video to show us how to get this saw in good/proper running order? Thanks!

[@DarinBeard]

I do not have that saw anymore I gave it away a couple years ago

[@MrBob844]

I bought the identical saw in 1968 when I was off work on sick leave and needed something to do. (I built a garage) Still have the saw and gave away my sliding miter saw.

[@JS-xi5nk]

RAS are the best all round saws ever made. I may suggest using a 2 piece fence. You can open the gap for daddos, move the gap over for 45s, close the gap to be close to the blade. Slide the fence to use with different angles. I did that to all 5 of my saws. The best mod iv done. And add sacrificial top on top of the table. Table gets cut up, just change the top. Dont have to re square and level.

[@DarinBeard]

That's a good idea.

[@ginagvlogs2386]

hello what were your final measurements for tour new top?

[@DarinBeard]

I don't remember exactly. I based it off what was on there before.

[@nickdandrea6352]

Do you where to get parts for the powr kraft radial arm saw? I have been looking for a elevating crank.

[@DarinBeard]

No, I never had to look. I don't have the saw anymore, sadly.

[@Bussstop]

Hi there. I just got the exact same machine. Do you maybe know where I can find a user manual for it? Thank you

[@DarinBeard]

I don't have the saw anymore but I did find the manual online at one point so it is out there.

[@gs-me]

good morning I bought a saw like yours over a year ago. how do you, if you have done so, grease the gears? thanks

[@DarinBeard]

I have not been into the gears on it so I don't have experience with that. Sorry.

[@mcween18]

Hi. Great video. I have just bought a very similar saw to this. Mine is called a shopmate. Could you please tell me the dimensions of your back table? Thanks!

[@DarinBeard]

I don't actually know. Not too long after making this video I built a long miter saw station that included the radial arm saw in it. So I don't even have this stand with the saw on it anymore.

[@mcween18]

@@DarinBeard dis you make a video of that?

[@terranempire725]

You're very lucky. I've been trying to get a Powr-Kraft RAS for some time. Did you ever get a drill chuck for it?

[@DarinBeard]

I do not have a chuck for it. Where would that even go? I only use the saw part. I've never used the other features of the tool.

[@Ritalie]

That Power Craft saw is a thing of beauty! I'd love to see more videos and hear it run. Do you still have it I hope?? Please tell me you didn't throw it away! Radial Arm Saws are like classic muscle cars. One day soon, there will be a huge renaissance, and everyone will dream of owning a "classic" 1960's or 70's radial arm saw, especially the beautiful Power Craft or 1969 blacked out Craftsman. The Delta saws might be worth the most someday, as they are like the Ferrari of saws. There is absolutely no logical reason why people don't like them, other than they don't understand how easy they are to use. Compared to a compound miter saw, cutting with a radial arm saw is like using a saw built by NASA. The refinement and precision and "effortless" of a "pull cut" with an aggressive modern thin kerf blade with "cut limiting" anti-kickback teeth, is something everyone Human should experience.

[@DarinBeard]

I don't have it anymore. I donated it to a friend who had a need and I was moving across the country.

[@ginagvlogs2386]

i ment to ask why do you have that notch on your fence?

[@DarinBeard]

It was originally meant for mitered cuts but I never actually used it because the saw is scary enough without cutting miters with it.

[@ginagvlogs2386]

@@DarinBeard thanx

[@jeeepers2024]

Hi I just bought the same shopmate as yours but have no manual and is a bit neglected. Head swings left to right but not side ways. What do I miss or not doing??

[@DarinBeard]

I have the manual digitally for this saw that I have. Let me know and I can send a copy to you if you want it.

[@jeeepers2024]

@@DarinBeard HI Thanks for your reply. I ended up dismantling the whole thing and found that the head seized up. After some cleaning and lubrication it works perfect.

[@DarinBeard]

@@jeeepers2024 I am happy it worked out for you. It's a great saw.

[@waynestinyworld]

@@DarinBeard would you send this to me please? If so I'll give you my email.

[@bopappy]

are you using mdf for the top?

[@DarinBeard]

Yes, I did. It's flat and straight.

[@TheLaserguy2]

Darin, very nice! Do you have, and/or know where I can get the router adapter part number 84-2613? Just picked one of these saws and it looks like it is easily going to become my go-to radial arm saw. Hoping to be able to get the adapter so I can make it a pin router table.

[@DarinBeard]

Thanks. I've done some searching for the extra add-on parts to the saw but found very little other than other people looking for the same parts. You might find them on ebay from time to time. I saw an ebay Russia post of that part once. I didn't bite, though. I love the saw and it's always been good for me. Good luck.

[@TheLaserguy2]

Darin, appreciate the reply. I will be keeping an eye out. On eBay, I did find and buy a Sears Craftsman Drilling and Router Adapter, part number 93239. That thread fits nicely on the 1/2"-20 spindle, and not quite as tight on the 15/32-20 shaft. Although it can be tightened pretty good, a bit leery to try using it on the 20,000 rpm output. Intended for 1/4" router bits, it is a simple two piece tool, about 2" overall length, one piece threaded to fit the shaft with a compression-type collet and the other a nut to tighten the bit in place. Don't see any way to add a photo of mine but here one like it from another discussion group lumberjocks.com/topics/84354

[@littleshopofsawdust1157]

Try vintage machinery website

[@TheLaserguy2]

@@littleshopofsawdust1157 Actually, someone locally was selling a Power Kraft and when I went to check it out, he offered to include a 'box of stuff'. Inside was an unopened brand new in the bag router adapter part number 84-2613 with instructions. As well as several other parts, including the drill chuck. Naturally, I bought the machine and still have all those optional add-ons.

[@anandramsaroop2417]

I need armature for my saw I have one just like that can you help

[@DarinBeard]

I don't even have the saw anymore. I doubt you can buy parts for it new anymore but maybe online for used? I never had to buy parts so I have no experience with that.

[@derekbeard3154]

Nice saw. Looks familiar.

[@DarinBeard]

Ha, it should. The top finally was beyond being usable. It's once again straight and true. I still have the metal cutting wheel you had on there when I got it.

[@frankherring6253]

I noticed the steel cutting blade in the thumbnail. Do you use that because of the rake on the teeth? I was considering buying one myself. My brother has the same saw. Great saw!

[@victorskunk4441]

Kind of started wrong all ready with the router cut and screws to long. You should have the brackets on the side of the base be perpendicular the the arm by tilting your motor (arbor down) and adjust does brackets perpendicular to you arm, now screw your front table to the brackets and your front table will be level with the arm, you also have a screw in the middle of the table to bring it up or down if needed. Now you adjust the blade 90 degrees or vertical to the table. Now, turn your blade 90 degrees just like ripping and that blade should be perpendicular to the fence. (this is how you adjust the fence, if needed loosen the front table screw a little to make this adjustment then re-tightened them)....... Now you adjust the travel of the arm and it should be 90 degrees or perpendicular to the fence. I like that you did not invent the wheel with the table, you used the right material and YOU KEPT THE FENCE IN FRONT OF THE BLADE. I like your table replacement I need to do mine..... nice job!. and be safe.

[@WKYanks]

You should put a Mr. Sawdust top on that saw. Google it.

[@DarinBeard]

I don't even have the saw anymore, but thanks for the tip.

[@WKYanks]

@@DarinBeard Bummer. They are great machines.

[@DarinBeard]

@@WKYanks I loved it. When I moved I gave it to a guy who could make good use of it.

[@thinkfloyd2594]

This is "what I did' not a how to video. Change your title. For a how to video, this is basically useless and a waste of my time to sit through.

[@DarinBeard]

I am sorry you didn't like it. It has helped many along the way. Good luck with your search.