How to Build a Terrible HO Scale Steam Engine Kit: Part 2 - Main Rods and "Valve Gear"

There are plenty of good kits out there, but what happens if you come across a really bad one? Instead of throwing it out, follow along with this video series to see how to actually make it into something!
The A3 0-4-0 was one of the last kits developed by Arbour Models. With years of experience and complaints by the time they started making these, they should've gotten their act together, right? As it turns out, nope! This is just as bad as the rest of them, having almost every possible problem that can possibly be fit into what should have been a very simple to develop and build model. As I build this side by side with a Bowser kit, you'll be able to see all the differences between a quality model and a not quality model. :)

[@sailormatlac9114]

The word "terrible" is such an understatement. It's not a kit, it's a bunch of parts approximating the final shape required to make a locomotive! That said, your craftsmanship is always excellent!

[@bobjaan8827]

You dealt with all the unnecessary challenges this kit brings without cursing and screaming like the rest of us would... Your patience and attention to detail is rather noteworthy and commendable! Thank you for sharing this video series with us armchair modelers.

[@trr94001]

The only kits I've been able to get my hands on are the old Tyco/Mantua ones. This thing makes me appreciate them.

[@jeffreymcneal1507]

I am pretty good at Plasticville, myself. The old Athearn shake the box box car kits were within my purview, also, but I drew the line when it came to tank cars.

[@robjohnson1138]

I’ve been enjoying your videos on building the steam loco kits. I wish there were some decent kits available now. One suggestion - when you to drill an unmarked hole into the back of the crosshead - You can use the same size bit you used for the front, so it will fit snugly in the hole - then just 1 or 2 turns and the larger drill bit will start a conical hole in the other piece as a center. Then you can use the smaller bit to go the rest of the way through. It might help get the holes more closely lined up.

[@andrewpalm2103]

Whew! That was stressful, and I'm only watching this build while sipping my morning coffee. Your skills at dealing with a poorly designed kit are truly impressive and inspirational. Several years ago I bought an English's/Bowser B&O Dockside kit with all the additional detail parts and the motor upgrade. I've yet to build up the courage to tackle it, but I'm getting closer thanks to you. Cheers from Wisconsin!

[@DarthSantaFe]

I think you’ll find the Bowser Dockside will be very easy to work on compared to this kit. :)

[@P8KPEV]

Thanks for persisting with this one. These are invaluable how-to's for the kit.

[@kge420]

Arbor should just include a kiln and some pot metal in the box.

[@redtrain9419]

Another bout with the Arbour monster which has seen you as the victor! I dread the rainy day I finally try to put my Brooks mogul together... perhaps I'll need to see about either making (or getting made) some higher quality rods for the thing. White metal doesn't seem like a sensible material to make valve gear out of, but I guess there's not much sense to go around when we're talking about a company that has to reassure its customers that they are, indeed, having fun building their kits. Can't wait to see you tackle more of this thing. As poorly designed as it is, it may well end up a great looking model after all the work you put into it!

[@DarthSantaFe]

I also have the Brooks Mogul and used it as a bit of a practice piece. It’s come out as a decent runner, and I can offer some tips here and there on how to finish it and get around their mistakes!

[@Alerrecks]

@@DarthSantaFe I'm putting together a Brooks Mogul as well. I've got the loco mechanism running well but have yet to build the tender and superstructure. I'd love to see yours!

[@DarthSantaFe]

@@Alerrecks I plan on putting up a review of the Brooks when the 0-4-0 is done!

[@Alerrecks]

@@DarthSantaFe awesome!!

[@jeffreymcneal1507]

Are you a surgeon in your spare time? I wish I had 1/10th your talent.

[@jimsrenaski7118]

I really enjoy your projects. I wish there were more.

[@RichardKroboth]

Hi Darth, just watched the first 2 episodes. You mentioned that you worked on the 2-8-4 kits, and that the valve gear for those aren’t the greatest. What did you do with that situation? Asking because I have one of those kits, and if I decide to tackle it any hints would be helpful. Thanks

[@DarthSantaFe]

The metal for the valve gear rods is soft and easy to damage. They have to be handled very carefully, and the inaccuracy of the castings can make getting them to work difficult since many of the parts are assembled by bending instead of using screws or rivets. I ended up making a lot of the rods on mine from brass.

[@thelittletug9321]

Hey darth I was wondering if you could take some pictures of the mechanism for you custom tyco 2-8-0 and put them on your community tab I'm looking to undertake a similar feat of engineering please and thank you

[@DarthSantaFe]

I have some photos I posted a while ago on a forum, but I never got a photo of the actual gears before assembling the trucks. The gear arrangement is a shrunk down version of the Athearn F unit trucks with a 16T gear in place of the second 23T gear. www.tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11842 I also made a video last year that shows a little more: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaGXi4CieK6qgpI

[@laszlobunda7908]

Get a small hobby vise to hold small parts while drilling and/or filing. Drilling through the soft metal parts into a steel block will dull your drill bits. Use a piece of wood instead to back the piece you are drilling. Also, a set of small jeweler's pliers, files and tweezers would be a good addition.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I actually do have all that, just didn’t think to use it. :)

[@vault1310]

Any idea what metal alloy the parts in this kit are cast with? I recall something called “pot metal” back in the day that was used for this kind of thing. Maybe that’s what it is.

[@DarthSantaFe]

These were made from a zinc-cadmium alloy. It made the parts easier to cast and works well with solder, but it’s not exactly the safest metal to handle very much.

[@RichardKroboth]

@@DarthSantaFeCould the metal be pewter?

[@DarthSantaFe]

@@RichardKroboth It's similar to pewter, but not quite the same.

[@czwij]

been waiting for this.....thanks.

[@notmuch_23]

I'm surprised the castings don't have gigantic voids where crucial giant chunks of the part! How much did Arbor Models have the balls to charge for this shit?

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

Shout out to Darth Santa fa and his Railroad workshop👍♐️

[@TroublesomeSlateTruck]

Cool.

[@SaltyVan]

*percy theme intensifies*

[@Alerrecks]

Bruh

[@paulmishler402]

You literally get no bitches