How to Build a Terrible HO Scale Steam Engine Kit: Part 1 - Main Chassis Assembly

[@jillkendel6385]

I built one of these Arbour kits for a friend to whom it had some sentimental value. Had it not been "special" to him I would have trashed that puppy 15 minutes into it. It was a little Mogul and the side rods were all too short and even appeared to be from another kit. Had to make the new ones from scratch. The wheels had all of the problems you mentioned and several of the castings had pits or short fills, so it absorbed a 100+ hours before all was said and done. Being a small business is not an excuse to build a bad product, so it pains me not in the least to know that they are consigned to the trash bin of modeling history. Thanks for a great video!

[@jefflynnalex]

I broke off a tap in the steam chest of an Arbour J1. Was incredibly fortunate to find a replacement chest. The plastic driver parts were also not fully pressed onto the tires, wheels were out of quarter. These are just basic manufacturing standards that Arbour seemed totally unconcerned with. What is incredible is that all of these problems can be dealt with as you continue to demonstrate with your videos. Clearly the building of these requires skill and creativity far beyond what is simplistically stated in the instructions...yet they are not impossible to build (unless you follow the instructions). Can't wait for the next video!

[@DarthSantaFe]

I looked at getting the J1, but that kit in particular tends to go for really high prices now. Last one I saw almost went up to $500 on eBay!

[@jefflynnalex]

I found most of one in a mixed lot that also came with pieces of an Allegheny. I sold off the Allegheny parts so, in the end, literally got the J1 for nothing. Since then I've slowly acquired other parts so that it is now about 90% complete. Never did find replacement side rods. Rods on the Berk are not compatible. Still missing the tender back plate but, other than that, I have everything. One of these days I might try to finish it. New kits are outrageously expensive, though.

[@dtj9923]

Watching you methodically true the wheels and tires on this kit reminds me of EVERY MDC and Grandt Line kit I have ever assembled. Cringe. All too often this involves extreme measures including a watchmaker's lathe, precision ground dowel pin replacement axles, and a NWSL professional quartering press. Great video, thanks for posting.

[@redtrain9419]

Wow, what nightmare of a kit! I've heard horror stories of Arbours, but actually seeing one get built step by step just puts in perspective how little they really cared about delivering a quality product. Such a shame too, because they happened to produce prototypes almost nobody else did. I've recently gotten my hands on an unstarted 1890s Brooks 2-6-0 and a half-started Sierra #3 (proper HO scale, unlike the oversized Tyco!) from them. I can now see that I'm going to have to build up a lot more patience before doing much with either! Fantastic video however, I thoroughly enjoy your commentary about the kit progress. Can't wait to see this thing come together (assuming it cooperates enough)!

[@DarthSantaFe]

I recently built a Brooks 2-6-0 to get some practice for finishing this one. I’ll do a review of it when the A3’s done. :)

[@codyking9392]

This video inspired me to pick up a Arbour models kit when I could find one. Low and behold this past weekend I picked up an A3 switcher! Haha! Minus the tender. I’m nervous, but excited to assemble it. However, I have several roundhouse kits I am going to build first to build some experience; a 0-6-0, 4-4-2 Atlantic, 2-8-0 consolidation (which is missing some parts) and three shays. Please upload more as you work on this kit! Really enjoy your content.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I hope the Arbour kit goes together well for you! I’ll be getting to the next video soon.

[@Samstrainsofficially]

On a note about these kits, fixing things can be kinda a real pain in the butt with these kits, they are manufacuter by taking a brass master, which is then set vulcanised rubber disk, which is then hand split into two halves, which then has the sprews hand cut into it. This mould making process is very time consuming and expensive if you are not the one doing it. Multiple parts are cast on one mould so if you wanna change one part because someone complained that one part needed a bit of alteration then you gotta remake that entire mould or make a spacer for the machine that does the spin casting and then make a none standard size mould which means modifying the vulcanising machine to do that. So really the note in the box is kinda understandable if the manufacturer had a whole bunch of people not understand how the kit was made and spit the dummy over small issues. Built a lotta kits and really it doesn't look that bad compared to some, but then to people who just want an easy life m this would kill them. Can mail you a british kit thats sitting in my what do I do with this pile, it'll make this look like walk in the park. 😄 if we can work a way yo get an address to send it to you can have it free

[@DarthSantaFe]

These kits can definitely be a pain to assemble! My first one from them was a 2-8-4 (which was much worse!), and I worked off and on for about 5 years to finish it. Having built spin-cast kits from DJH and Tiger Valley, you can definitely get a well fit and high quality model using this method, so even though I can kind of understand the owner’s frustration, I still think he would’ve done much better to put in the extra effort to make these kits better. If you’d like to send me that British kit, you can contact me at [e-mail] to work out some details. Thanks for offering! :)

[@wabisabi6875]

Despite the problems, I think the shrink wrap packaging was a stroke of brilliance. You know that every part stays put until you need it.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Arbour had a lot of good ideas in their kits. If they were more competent with making the parts, they could have been a very well regarded brand.

[@chrisvaughan159]

Excellent video - these are the ones we like, where the kit doesn't fall together and needs so much work to progress - we learn your techniques so well, thank you. Although you're right, kit manufacturers shouldn't be so laissez-faire. We have some stinkers in the UK too! Looking forward to the footage of your next challenge.

[@shaygetz52]

I picked up one of their 2-8-4 Kanawhas in a box lot that is now residing in bits and pieces around the layout as scenic elements rusting in the weeds. It came with a beautiful Sagami can motor that has long powered a boxcab electric I scratchbuilt about thirty years ago. What truly amazes me is how long they held on and how many kits they offered. I remember a Model Railroader magazine Trade topics review where the assembler was rather gracious in his assessment of the Kanawha, basically saying it was difficult to say anything about the quality, as some welcomed the challenges, while others lambasted them. He went so far as to not disassemble it for paint once done, put rather painted it with an airbrush while running it on his bench.

[@robertbowman3406]

This kit reminds me of the engines I use to buy from Hobbytown of Boston way back in the 1960s. It took a lot of time as filing was needed for the parts to fit. This was the main reason I purchased them.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Hobbytown’s still around and making kits: hobbytownofboston.com I’ve gotten some real nice runners from them!

[@P8KPEV]

Thanks for doing this model. This makes a great guide for the one staring at me out of the kit pile.

[@13thBear]

Well, watching you guaranteed I'll never buy an Arbour kit! You, sir, have the patience of the proverbial saint.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I expect most people won't take on a kit like this, but for those who do, these videos should offer a few decent tips to get them going.

[@gacj2010]

Great tutorial and great insight to be able to see how its suppose to all come together.

[@wabisabi6875]

I find 1" long clothes pins (from the local craft store) to be very helpful holding small parts together, like valve gear, when needing a third hand. Being so small, they can fit into spaces that many other pins and clamps do not.

[@christophercriztop3806]

Ah yes The arbor models 0-4-0 Remember seeing it at the end of the last video of your arbor model Berkshire, Hopefully it'll go well

[@robertbowman3406]

Now when you get it altogether and test run it, it is time to dissambly it, wash all the parts in warm soapy water, rinse and dry these parts. Then it is time to prime it and then paint it in the colors you want. It is very time consuming but when you are done it is a work of art. You can then say I did it myself.

[@Steamer96]

Are these castings zinc or tin based alloys?

[@DarthSantaFe]

They used a zinc-cadmium alloy. The cadmium makes it softer and lowers the melting temperature.

[@christopherlaflam6383]

Love your videos. I've got just about every Bowser steam kit with super detail kit as well as every Arbour Models kit. I've built a couple of the Bowsers (T1 and I1) and am now finishing up an E6. Yeah I've got quite a bit of work ahead of me! I do love building the Bowsers. That Arbour Allegheny is gonna be a challenge it seems........!

[@DarthSantaFe]

The Allegheny is considered one of the most difficult of all time, so best to get some experience before starting that one!

[@petert9749]

Hmm? Probably best to treat some kits as scratch-building aids. d

[@petert9749]

Here is another try at replying (AAH!) Hmm? Probably best to treat some kits as scratch-building aids. Sometimes a new chassis and rods are a good idea. With this loco the long distance from the worm to the motor bearing could also take a good look; if using a new motor, make sure it can take the longitudinal thrust. Sometimes all a kit is good for is as a de-facto outline drawing for a scratch build. Have a look at Gordon Odegard's loco buiding series in MR a few years ago, and don't be afraid to ask questions on this and other Utube channels. If we don't share ideas all this a waste. The kit featured here is a great opportunity to develop ideas. Two rules: be safe; and if frustration is too much, work on something else. Enjoy, and thanks to Darth.

[@gbwdude]

Watching your video makes me glad that I didn't spring for the Arbor 4-6-0 and went with a pile of Varney Casey's. I like challenges but how everything needs some form of attention is mind blowing. I've always understood Arbor as a 'craftsman kit' company... definitely not after seeing your video.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I like to think of a “craftsman kit” as something that was made for craftsmen by competent craftsmen. Arbour settled on about half of that idea it would seem.

[@markreadman4414]

Just a quick tip clean your files often with a fine wire brush, then run the file across chalkboard chalk this will fill the file teeth and stop them clogging so much, when possible only use a file in a forward movement rather than back and forth this will repay in a longer life of your files,,, nice video...... Mark in U.K.

[@OutbackCatgirl]

the one way stroke thing is technically a myth with a kernal of truth for specific types of file, modern files tend to have negligable differences between one way and two way strokes in testing due to the cut pattern and metallurgy, especially if regularly cleaned of grit. Still good advice in some cases but worth mentioning. Though i can definitely hear how blunted or clogged the files being used in this video are...

[@markreadman4414]

Maybe you are right about more modern files, but at 67 years of age, I'm very much of old schools and had a flare for metal work in my school days , how I wish I could have those years back , anyway so many tools don't last long these days but good practice and maintenance can' be a bad thing..... Mark

[@Twilight-ww6ub]

Enjoyed your video also. Was wondering what the long pause was in between installments. Now I know, wasn’t expecting you to pull an Arbour models kit out. I think I have this kit also as well the PRR J1.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Yeah, this and other things put it on hold for a while!

[@Stoker58]

Do you have to supply your own screws? My kit appears to be missing mine?

[@DarthSantaFe]

They're supposed to be included, but since these are all old stock, sometimes a kit will be missing parts. The assembly screws are all standard 0-80 and 2-56, but you might have to improvise with the siderod screws.

[@EdwinsTrains]

From what I know, Arbour didn't package the main body parts in plastic bubbles. However they did for the super detail kit. Also, why didn't you drill out the broken screw?

[@DarthSantaFe]

True, the large part packaging was all vacuum formed, but they did use plastic bubble at some time for smaller parts. I considered drilling the broken screw out, but it was actually easier in this case to drill and tap a new hole.

[@GarrettTaylorLeedy]

I really like watching your videos a lot how you build these locomotives from scratch how can I get in contact with you because I've got a brass Rio Grande Challenger needs repairs and I can't even get it to run right with the shell on

[@DarthSantaFe]

Thanks! If you send an email to [e-mail], then maybe we can work something out.

[@smithius0220]

You are very skillful. I appreciate how you take the time to solve each problem as you go. Excellent video. Can you recommend a reference book to help a new modeler?

[@petert9749]

Not enough information Smithy; sounds like your interest is in kit/scratch-building???? Is that right? See my loudmouthed overconfident reply to Christopher above. There is a British Utuber who assembles etched kits; can't remember his channel name and finding it will mess up this reply. Probably worth a look. The only disagreement I have with him in at least t he first part of his video is waving a loaded Swann-Morton around his face as he manipulates the work for his next cut (I get in trouble for saying that - couldn't care less; he should put it down! A perceptual motor reversal could cost him an eye, and same to anyone who copies). Shall try and find it for you. Model technical work is a huge challenge, but immensely satisfying. For safety reasons (and for fun), I check ideas with friends who know.

[@patrickwamsley3284]

I've got that bowser usra mountain kit. I got it assembled with loksound installed but the detail kit, I can't find anywhere. I've been doing it up to my own liking with whatever I find i think it could use.

[@DarthSantaFe]

The USRA 4-8-2 was more generic than the M1, so you can probably detail that up to look best for your railroad of choice. Bowser also has the reference manual page on their website, so that can help a lot with finding different details for it (helped a lot with my M1!).

[@dexecuter18]

Never thought I would have seen a Manufacturer basically put. "lol just Cope" in their advertising.

[@Samstrainsofficially]

When you scratch build something you don't even get a note saying just cope. Man how good that would have been as a reminder. 😅

[@erinconnelly7339]

What do you know about “The Locomotive Company “ HO kits? I have a ten wheeler and tender kit from them. They are sold separately.I had never heard of Arbour Models before but after watching this video I looked them up on EBay and there’s one of their ten wheelers for sale which a lot of the parts look identical to my kit.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I don’t know much about them. Some others on the Model Railroader forum might know more if you want to ask there.

[@3ftsteamrwy12]

@@DarthSantaFe I remeber seeing ads for TLC in both MR and RMC magazines as a teen...they were really trying hard, BUT...used soft metal castings for things like frames and rods, which, well cant be soft or flexible... and the word got out fast...and they didnt last long at all. Its a bit of a rumour, but supposedly Arbour was a "rebirth" of The Locomotive Company, but I'm not positive on it.

[@philo426]

When I made my Bowser 4-6-0 you didn't have to do what you had to do.self tapping screws,properly guaged and quartered drivers and generally better fit made assembly a pleasure.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Bowser's one manufacturer that was always determined to do things right! I've never had a bad product from them.

[@tmackinator]

You may want to try rubbing chalk on your files when using soft materials to help prevent clogging.

[@danielwoehrman2719]

Some times you can take a narrow dremmel cut off disk and groove the end of the screw perpendicular to the threads. It acts like a tap screw for any size small screw in soft die cast metal. Use oil install the screw.

[@DarthSantaFe]

My cutoff discs are about as thick as the diameter of the 0-80 screws, but I do see how this could work for larger ones!

[@danielwoehrman2719]

@Darth Santa Fe My dremmel discs are .020" thickness and .950" diameter. I just notch the end of threads a short distance perpendicular to thteads, so it looks like a tap.

[@Tom-Lahaye]

Seems to be a tough kit. Reminds me a bit of those British K's kits of the 1980s, very rudimentary and demanding to get a good running loco. The quality of today's offerings made with the aid of CAD design and CNC cutting or 3D printing is much better. Modern brass kits are really a solder together exercise only, and the white metal kits of the DJH brand are some of the best of this kind with very smooth surfaces, minimal flash and good alignment of molds. Yes, you can have a steam dome with a 1/16" offset between the 2 halves of the mold, try to get a round dome without a seam out of this, it will end up being 1/8" to small in diameter. A tip for a 2 axle locomotive is to make a double taper in the slot for the non geared axle. You can do this by making the inside of the slot black with a permanent marker, and then mark the center of the slot with a scriber. Use the drill reamer method to make the slot deeper towards the sides of the chassis, but leaving a bit of black ink at the center untouched. This way the axle is only supported in the center of the slot enabling the axle to make a see saw motion. You may also need to remove those pads from the inside of the keeper plate (only the non driven axle!), to make space for the downwards movement of the wheel at that side when the other wheel on the axle tilts up. Then what you get is a 3 point suspension allowing for proper contact of all four wheels with the track, aiding power pick up and traction

[@DarthSantaFe]

I have done that equalized axle trick before with non-steam and my Aerotrain passenger car chassis design, but I never thought to do that with a steam engine. If it gives me trouble with traction, I may just have to give that a try!

[@ghostrider6267]

They wait until after you buy the kit to tell you it's a piece of garbage, now, isn't that dandy.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I guess they wouldn’t have been able to sell them otherwise!

[@ghostrider6267]

@@DarthSantaFe for sure this!

[@armadussteel2489]

This man is the Bob Ross of model trains

[@ecidaho]

Applause and kudos!

[@cec_oregon]

I had one of these, it felt sounded like a blender and operated like it was made of wet sand.

[@ardiaidikoci5136]

Why you shop?

[@DarthSantaFe]

I’ve had other things to take care of, but I’ll be getting back to this and the Bowser kit very soon.

[@digitalcareline]

In Britain they call it a craftsman kit - that excuses all design shortfall and omissions. You as the craftsman will have to use all of your talent, skills and a fully equipped workshop to re-manufacture the selection of parts that we have provided. If the finished result is bad then you are just not a craftsman.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I've built a few British kits with some very nice results. The most complex so far is the Teutonic 2-2-2-0 from London Road Models (still in progress), and they confirmed in the instructions that getting full valve gear motion and any decent traction is a major pain, and they're right, but even that's going together more smoothly than this kit.

[@digitalcareline]

@@DarthSantaFe There are good kits out there but there were many howlers - I liked DJH and South Eastern Finecast. I have a Martin Finney kit which is well engineered but pretty intimidating to build as it was designed for O then Shrunk down to 1:76 scale. Nucast and Kays Autocom were generally as rough as this Arbour one - I guess the molds were worn out by the time I was buying them in the 1980s -maybe they were good kits in the early runs -most kits you had to source wheels, Motor and gears separately and this became a minefield as the specified parts were usually long out of production. Given that most kits cost more than a finished item this led to them becoming very hard to get now

[@DarthSantaFe]

@@digitalcareline I see that SEF has acquired the NuCast tooling and is making some design improvements, so maybe they'll be better to assemble now. Looking at photos of old parts, it does look like some of the chassis parts weren't especially smoothly engineered. Most of the UK kit manufacturers I've found are still following the tradition of not including wheels, but at least the various wheel manufacturers have good product selections available. As for DJH, I've built 3 and am currently working on a 4th, and they've all been great to work on! I think one way to keep the kits going is to make unique models that aren't available ready to run, or at least haven't had a good quality model produced by anyone else. DJH tried to get into the US market back in the 80's, but they only made common USRA steam engines that you could already get for cheaper from other manufacturers. The Alaska 2-8-0 was the only one they kept making until just recently.

[@varrunningtrains4112]

This raises so many questions! What is the history of Arbour? I cant seem to find much on them besides a few threads on mrr. How long were they in business for? How many mental breakdowns did they cause for buyers? Best of luck with your kit sir!

[@DarthSantaFe]

From what I know, they were started as a side business by the owner of a larger manufacturing place sometime in the early to mid 70's. The first kit was the 2-6-6-6, which was based on the tooling of the brass Winton model from the 40's, and they stayed in business for around 10 years. I think they had about a dozen different kits by the end, and all had a bad reputation.

[@varrunningtrains4112]

@@DarthSantaFe Interesting, thanks for the info!

[@WHJeffB]

Jeebus... That kit is awful! The issues with the axle slots in the chassis block, side rods being soft metal and the wheels being out of true would have killed it for me. Into the trash it would have gone. Greatly admire you sticking with it, that takes some real determination! Never been much of a fan of the locomotive kits (Arbor Models, Bowser, MDC, etc...) from the 70's and 80's. Had one of the Bowser heavy saddle tank 0-4-0's years back. The tires on the drivers, which were pretty good for the most part, appeared to be aluminum, rather than steel or nickel plated brass. Not a bad kit compared to the one you're tackling in this video, but the crappy tires on the drivers killed it for me. I still have the kit, thought to replace the drivers with some replacement parts that are available for brass locomotives, but just haven't done it yet. Well done though... You've got some real "grit" in you!

[@DarthSantaFe]

You might also be able to use Mantua/Tyco drive wheels of the same size in your 0-4-0 since Greenway hasn't been able to make anything for a while. I've also really liked Markits/Romford wheels for some of my projects thanks to their square-end axles, but you do have to add your own counter-weight detail and possibly re-drill and tap the screw holes to fit the US screw sizes.

[@damianstellabott3613]

Still bummed there aren't any US made kits anymore.

[@DarthSantaFe]

The only HO steam kit left that I know of is a narrow gauge 4-4-0 from Wiseman. If someone else starts making more though, I think you’ll know where to see them. :D

[@bobyar2001]

There were a couple of companies that tried producing soft-metal locomotive kits in the 1980's. I'm pretty sure the parts were cast in rubber molds that were only good for a few pours, as the quality got worse each time they were used. Both Arbour and the other company quit after a couple of years. These videos make me happy that I gave up model railroading long ago, as a hobby that produces much more stress than it relieves.

[@DarthSantaFe]

They were flexible spin-casting molds, which can actually last a long time when made properly. Tiger Valley was another one from that time (one of the good ones), and those were kept in production until the owner became too unwell a few years ago to keep it going. The number of quality ready to run and easy to use products has grown enough in the past few years to take a lot of stress out of the hobby, so it might be worth giving another look sometime. :)

[@RobertEHunt-dv9sq]

You need to keep a still upper lip when building these models and when HO gives you too much stress move to “O” gauge. Easier on the eyes and hands. Cheers

[@peteshoulders1]

definately a landfill project

[@경환TV-j8z]

관심이 가네요!

[@northerncountryrailroad8939]

Nice

[@kge420]

Looks like the kind of kit you’re give to someone that’s in prison.

[@DarthSantaFe]

No, that would count as “prison brutality.” :)

[@effenbeezeetravel4474]

Fred flintstone kit !

[@badkittynomilktonight3334]

Keystone HOn30 Shay was by far the absolute worst kit I ever experienced. So bad in every way I never completed it and switched to G gauge.

[@DarthSantaFe]

That was a tough one! It took a lot of effort, but I managed to get one together and running smooth: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHzVnWuZfNeJmLc Most of the difficulty came from it not being designed as a powered model, but even with that, it was actually still easier to put together than these Arbour kits.

[@badkittynomilktonight3334]

@@DarthSantaFe Wow Arbor being easier? That's scary because that Shay made me so frustrated I abandon the entire scale. I'm much happier in large scale. Everything is so much easier to handle for the two lumps of ham I call my fists. Nice job on the Shay. Few people I've met that were able to put that together.

[@hamiltonsullivan6563]

Indeed... a terrible 0-4-0 shifter

[@effenbeezeetravel4474]

I am sill angry 40 years later !

[@effenbeezeetravel4474]

i had one ; horrific !

[@pmsteamrailroading]

You lost me when you started driving a machine screw into an untapped hole. Not having the correct tap is no excuse. Go out and buy a tap. They’re not that expensive. I also didn’t see you reading any instructions. Of course you had to file the slots for the axle. It is very difficult to calculate the shrinkage when casting with a spin casting machine. You can always file metal off but adding it is hard. You also need to check the distance between the axles making sure they’re square to the frame and parallel to each other. And the distance between the drivers will affect how the side rods will fit. Could Arbor have built things differently? Sure, but it would have required tens of thousands of dollars in new machinery, and dies. The price would then have been the same as an assembled brass model. That is why kit models were sold. Way more modelers could afford one. In the ‘70s you could not just send cad files to China fan get a model.

[@DarthSantaFe]

The instructions are too big to keep on camera, so I keep them off to the side. I have been reading them every step of the way (which I do mention through the video) and I drove in the machine screw because that’s exactly what the instructions said to do. I tried to do things the way they said to do it. When the screw broke, I bought a proper 0-80 tap. I do understand the cost of developing tooling and that it can get expensive, but there are also cheap ways to get around some of the issues (such as separate brass bearings and set screws).

[@arrow1414]

Go back to the "ancient" days of Model Railroading in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s when most models had a significant number of wooden components, even locomotives, so that kit is advanced. I know it is only 40 years old putting it around 1980, but the dies it came from probably date back to the 1950s so you are really roughing it!

[@DarthSantaFe]

This kit was actually developed in the late 70's, so the spincasting molds were basically new when this one was made. If you're looking for some old fashioned wood models, La Belle still makes some nice wood kits for traction models and old time rolling stock!

[@arrow1414]

@@DarthSantaFe Ah! I didn't know that! But no, I don't have the patience to work in wood. It is just that I was looking at some really old issues of Model Railroaded Magazines from 1939 and the kits were mostly wooden. I surmised that the kit you have was from pretty close to that era, the mid 1950s when all metal kits were still an advancement of the hobby like styrene plastic would be by the mid 1960s.😁

[@STho205]

I wish the cabs were still laser cut wood on the older 19th century or turn of the cen locomotives. I spend time cutting off the cast or plastic cabs and fabricating them of wood...sometimes parting the windows out of the discarded cab.

[@jeremiahwilliams7809]

Had one of these,it was a old time 4-4-0,it was literally the worst piece of modelrailroading epuipment l have ever laid eyes or hands on!!! Misformed parts,parts that were too short,mine also came with all the useless non-chalant literature and manuals,I totally concur,l can see why they weren't in business long................

[@DarthSantaFe]

I’ve seen photos of kits that were finished by milling an entire new chassis from brass. It was apparently easier than working with the original in some cases!

[@jeremiahwilliams7809]

@@DarthSantaFe also bachmann has put out some nice crap too,the bachmann 4-4-0s are some real pieces of crap!!!! the cheap crappy motors sounds like a blender, there's gaps where parts don't fit properly ,the wheels drive wheels are not properly aligned causing them to wobble down the track, there's too much space between the bottom of the cowcatcher and the top rails,and newer ones aren't much better.........

[@DarthSantaFe]

@@jeremiahwilliams7809 I also have an old Bachmann 4-4-0. It was an OK runner with the old pancake motor, but never great. I upgraded it with an FK-130SH motor, replaced the tender wheels with better Intermountain 28" wheels, added extra electrical pickups and did some tuning beyond that to get rid of some slop. Thanks to all that, it turned out to be a pretty nice runner! My tuned Tyco General with a coreless motor is still my best non-brass 4-4-0 though.

[@Mauscmkwk]

No bearings classic

[@tonywright8294]

It’s not steam!

[@applecounty]

"Quality"? A rare example of American irony?

[@DarthSantaFe]

Most of the model railroad products made in America have actually been very good quality, so Arbour is kind of a rare example of a bad one.

[@effenbeezeetravel4474]

this kit was theft ! stole my money !

[@DarthSantaFe]

You must have completed it though! Otherwise it wouldn’t have been able to escape with your money. :)

[@effenbeezeetravel4474]

Don't if find used !

[@peterforden5917]

it would be much easier with the correct tools :)

[@DarthSantaFe]

I’d like to have the best tools for each project, but that stuff does get pretty expensive.

[@effenbeezeetravel4474]

Serial liar instructions !

[@bobyar2001]

I do note that the A3 kit has the correct 13-spoke drivers from which one could create an HO model of Santa Fe's Little Buttercup 0-4-0, or its previous ugly shop goat version. i.pinimg.com/originals/6a/bb/1f/6abb1fc533ee9f9ea9dfe69a62a4b701.jpg or www.ctrc.org/user/images/ctrc/lbc_history_1899_300x188.png