Datsun 280z Ep.27 Installing the Fuel Rail and Injectors

[@ronnypena7765]

Im in love with this channel, all the step by step makes it easier for me

[@RestorationForBeginners]

Glad to hear man, I'll try to keep it going.

[@MrPingpong90]

Having this is really awesome for other learners. Thanks for taking the time to tape it, I know it's not easy.

[@RestorationForBeginners]

Thanks! Yeah, it's really time consuming. I think I work on these videos about as long as I work on the car. I'm happy to hear that I'm being helpful, and thanks for your note!

[@tokuzumi1]

Fantastic work! I'm going to be replacing the fuel rails and all the associated mechanical fuel injection components with the Holley EFI from ZCar Depot. I'll keep all the old stuff in a box should I ever go to sell the car later. Main reason for replacing is the parts are 40 years old, and many of those parts are either very hard to find, or expensive. Plus the engine bay will look so much cleaner without the 10 miles of vacuum lines and fuel lines snaking around all over the place.

[@visualideasM]

I am at this stage as well mate. Super exciting. I ran into the same issues you had and figured it out by using the disconnect video. I haven't started it yet cause there is no coolant in my car. I'll wait for the next one.

[@RestorationForBeginners]

Awesome to hear that we're about at the same stage, it's cool to hear that my videos can be of some assistance. I'm learning a lot as I go too. I got my car started last weekend, and I'm still editing the video for that. Will be ready in the next few days.

[@davewm9589]

something I want to do in the future. My thought was to run a wire bottle brush thru the inside of the rail, its steel after all, to make sure its as clean as possible, follow up that with some "evap o rust" which eats rust on contact (the brush will make sure if there is any its well exposed). a good source of FI clamps is the junk yard.

[@RestorationForBeginners]

Not a bad idea to run some rust eating chemicals through there. I wish I would've thought of that!

[@davewm9589]

I had forgotten how hard it was to reinstall the rail. I pulled mine and got the injectors serviced, I finally gave up and just installed the injectors into the manifold 1st THEN slipped them on the rail, much easier. Oh and you think its tough with those plastic spacers, try the alum ones with the paper gasket as well. I did find that if I made up new gaskets (hand cut them from gasket stock) I could undersize the screw holes a bit, that way the paper gasket keeps the alum spacer in place.

[@RestorationForBeginners]

Hey Dave, while I have your attention, I did have a question for you regarding fuel pressure. Have you tested your fuel pressure along the RPM? What did your FP gauge show at 2K, 3K, 4K RPMs? I can't seem to find definitive information on this.

[@davewm9589]

Hard to say since the vacuum in the manifold will vary from engine to engine. You could hook up a vacuum gauge (good to have to check the performance of the newly machined engine parts) and just make sure it varies in relation to engine vacuum. ( less vacuum more pressure). You can tell its working by just noting the pressure at atmospheric pressure (pump on engine off) is about 36 psi. About 28 psi at idle (about 17-18 inch hg). As long as its in that range and it varies with vacuum when advancing throttle, then the regulator is doing it job and pressure will be ok. In the final analysis short of one of those digital air/fuel ratio detectors that I think use an O2 sensor in the exhaust, the best way to tell if its ok would be to just drive it and see if the engine is responsive. I like to use a new set of plugs and read the colors of the insulators after about 50-100 miles on them.

[@caleyfrei]

Where did you get those metal collars? My beck arnley 158- 0099 didn't come with them.

[@DiegoGarcia-rf8wi]

Where is a good place to send my injectors to get restored ?

[@fifteenbyfive]

Really buttoning it up now. It looks great. Nice job! Good luck on your first fire. Might want to clean the inside of the AFM up a little and at least the air sensor in the front of it. Might first want to bench test the AFM with an ohmmeter too to make sure its resistance readings are correct. They tend to fall to an incorrect value when they fail. The car will still run okay but the mix will never be good across the range of engine speed.

[@RestorationForBeginners]

Yeah, that's a really good tip. I need to do that. What I mean is... I need to learn how to do that =) I got the car running, adjusted a few things here and there to make it run nicely enough to take a trip to the exhaust shop. It's getting its exhaust pipes installed on with welds/flanges. I'll share everything over the course of the next couple of weeks. After I get it back, it's going to be A LOT of tweaking and tuning, and I think I'll take it to a dyno shop to see where we're at.

[@fifteenbyfive]

Congrats on getting it running! I'm not surprised to hear that, given how meticulous you've been. You'll want to download or print this. www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf It's really simple compared to what else you're doing. Performance related testing....look at the AFM, anything on the ECU that involves runnability, test the resistance to the coolant temp sensor it's probably the 2nd most important component in the system for air/fuel mixture after the AFM. ETA: Check the voltage to the fuel injectors as well to make sure all the numbers are happy and in agreement. This would be the minimum of EFI testing I'd do. Or just play it by need. For instance if the car starts easily you can probably skip the CSV stuff. Be very careful of course when testing for voltage not to touch the wrong pins, but the resistance measurements don't need the battery connected so they're pretty much idiot proof. ;)

[@isaiasgonzalez7045]

What year

[@RestorationForBeginners]

77