How to optimise your home climbing wall

Why is it that some climbers have a badass home training setup and plenty of time to use it, yet they are not improving as fast as some who don't? Set it up and use it sub-optimally and your home wall can be just another source of plateaux in your climbing performance.
Episode #3 of my vlog deals with just this issue and I take you through how I've set up my wall and why. Of course, setting up the wall is just one part. In the vlog I discuss reasons why I decided to write me first book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. In that I go into detail on the many ways that climbers can go wrong in planning their training and path to their goal climbs. If you haven't read it, check it out in my store at www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers

[@kriszteblade]

That is one gigantic private wall!

[@summercityzach]

would be a great time to go more in depth with home wall setting ideas, training, etc. since so many people are stuck at home training right now!! new video would be very helpful!

[@josefdoyle3167]

"I am also not trying to enter any climbing competitions....I am a rock climber"

[@theopinson3851]

Josef Doyle that needs to be clipped and memed, lol.

[@johnleeman1933]

The best climbing author is now the best climbing vlogger. If you made a patreon I would subscribe instantly and I bet I'm not the only one.

[@balke7935]

These are a fantastic resource Dave! Keep them coming, very much appreciated.

[@maxbvg1]

Such a great approach to your videos, so calm and thorough. Sharing so much knowledge and experience, thank you for sharing. Please keep up the amazing work.

[@martinjoiner1001]

Love the abacus to keep track of sets! I chalk a tally on the wall, the analogue nature of it is satisfying.

[@bikeracelegends957]

It’s often I don’t write comments but I have to, this is excellent made and I especially find it true about having a inspiring place to train, as this makes a huge difference, fantastic commentary and filming, Keep up the great work! P.S a climber in my gym mentioned you are the best all round climber in uk!

[@TraceurOkaar]

Thank you really appreciate this video you've done. I built a home wall (outside) during COVID, and while I've been using it fairly frequently, I'm still struggling with the setting; I keep sending all my problems! As I just picked up new wooden holds, mostly crimps, and slopers, you've given me some serious food for thought!

[@faraz2498]

"place for a cup of tea", brilliant

[@pelac6708]

I noticed that same thing about homewalls, people don't use them... so when we did one with my friends, I focused on purchasing good holds and moving them often, really loving the place and getting hard climbing done there. After a couple of months, I was the only one using it- I just loved it. I haven't been there for a few months due to injury and training for comps, and this video made me want to come back and reset everything like I used to do. Such a great vid

[@NicklePiefy]

I never realized how much I care about the social aspect of climbing until I made my home wall. I still use it, but I'd use it so much more if I had friends over.

[@miguelalonso9294]

You are the best, man. I didn't know you until I read your book. Amazing!!!Anyhow, I am stuck in a plateau, what else :)

[@WayUpFilms]

I'm currently in the process of planning a home bouldering wall and this video was super helpful with settling on my angles. Would you mind sharing the dimensions of your 45 and 15 walls? I'd love to see more from you wall building process or just your approach to setting on the wall. Great video! Got my sub.

[@JesperJohannesson]

What a video! Fantastic!

[@tomktl879]

Dude you're just so reasonable, Imma go ahead and read your books.

[@theopinson3851]

Thanks, this is amazing! I just built my Corona board and am in the process of setting. Already ordered more positive holds because I quickly realized how much I underestimated how hard that 45 deg would be!

[@BraziBros]

Love the video! Subscribed!

[@AEClimbingTV]

nice tips!! I want to reset my home wall after seeing this vid :)

[@aeodian]

thats a hell of a setup

[@sirlockoff]

a rugged boardroom at cold basement? yes please

[@leahsmall4644]

Most relaxing voice ever...

[@plainsightcopyrightfreemus131]

I remember seeing this wall in a vid some time ago when it was just that incline.

[@EwanAC1]

would you be able to recommend some good value resin holds. I have a small training wall in my garage but im struggling to find resin holds that are positive enough for 45 degree.

[@imxd9698]

Mega. The hard part for me is just general conditioning haha

[@ferrells0987]

Any interest in selling your home?

[@highvoltageboys]

^^^^^

[@epedley10]

any tips or video on your mats? Looks real nice

[@sethgilbertson2474]

Dave, do you keep a training journal? If so, what kinda of stuff are you tracking in it? Do you have a plan that you follow or do you just train for projects? This video was great! I have a 8footx12foot long 45 degree wall in my basement that I get on 4-5 times a week. I have mine set up a lot like yours!

[@Riad_Hadjiev]

You are a great climber and nice person!

[@101Biohazard2]

What and the dimensions of your actual climbing space? The floor area and ceiling height. Complete dream home wall/room set up

[@callummather4471]

What are your wall specs? e.g. height, width and angle. Awesome build and great video, super inspiring. Thanks.

[@leonvanhelden2894]

Hi Dave, awesome tips once again. You never fail to deliver :-) A question: how did you find your big fan? I find it hard to find the right search words and just can't seem to find the industrial type you use.

[@tissuepaper9962]

AliExpress and eBay are you friend. Try "wall-mount industrial fan with safety cage"

[@tissuepaper9962]

m.aliexpress.com/item/32860970475.html?pid=808_0000_0201&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32860970475&aff_trace_key=&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=3175amp-drZpISoAeLBCWwXKHRMoIg1555266578737 Something like this one might work. It really wants to be mounted in a vent hole, but some simple wooden standoffs would work fine.

[@kanislurper]

really awesome homewall. Is the framing all wood or is there steel?

[@christianvollenhoven]

The white holds on your endurance circuit, what are they? I'd love a set

[@rdpounder]

Sorry to comment on such an old video. I'm just about to move to a house with a detached double garage and would like to build a home training wall. Just wondering with yours whether the garage had that much headroom to start with or whether you had to make structural changes to get the headroom you have here? I.e. I don't see any roof trusses, but your space looks about 3.5-4m high

[@rickigoode8536]

Hi Dave, I'm debating 20% or 40% on a low height wall. What would you do under 3m?

[@noiseforthealgorithm4668]

Hey mate, not a very interesting subject but could you talk about your crash pad matting floor?

[@craftanything8041]

What grade is your onsite

[@manfredstocker3559]

Hello from Austria, How steep is your wall?

[@63sfletcher]

Hi Dave thanks for the excellent series, could you tell me where you sourced your matting.

[@climbermacleod]

Core climbing.

[@gmoooooney]

What kind of texture do you have on your wall? I'd love to paint my wall but struggle to find a good texture.

[@climbermacleod]

None, just paint. I'm not a big fan of textured walls TBH.

[@gmoooooney]

@@climbermacleod my holds stick if I don't add texture. Have you not found you have this problem?

[@viniciuscollaco]

have you have consider do a moon board in this wall?

[@Zoranicc]

I can't see your separated shoulder on this video?

[@adas7614]

Great video! How many moves are your circuits?

[@climbermacleod]

A variety of lengths.

[@bblake-rz8de]

Step one get a home climbing wall

[@dannygrout92]

I have to go outside and lash my finger board to a children's climbing frame in the garden.