📷 5 PANO PHOTOGRAPHY SECRETS You NEVER Heard Of || Landscape Photography Tips

[@DaveMorrow]

📩 FREE COURSES & CAMERA TECHNIQUE PDFS: www.davemorrowphotography.com/free-pdfs

[@SandraBassin]

I love how you describe the beauty around you - a poet with an engineer's mind.

[@DaveMorrow]

Thanks!

[@mikebrown2242]

Another gem of a masterclass lesson.

[@DaveMorrow]

Appreciate that!

[@bennig3237]

Finally back again! Thank you for being such an inspiration. I will enjoy this video with a nice hot beverage on my cozy couch, while watching you out in the cold living life ❤

[@DaveMorrow]

Love it!

[@simonmaney3438]

Great stuff thanks. One thing I would suggest to those trying out panos is to think about each frame as a potential standalone shot (usually for horizontal shot panos). I'll do a sequence, with 'good' compositions for each frame, even if it means big overlaps. That way I can fall back on high quality single frames if I don't stitch them into a pano (for whatever reason).

[@DaveMorrow]

I wouldn't suggest that personally. Good shots will never make it into a portfolio. Only "Heck Yeah" compositions make it in a world class portfolio. Good is the enemy of great. Check out this video for in depth: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXW6pIGQmpWArLM Never shoot backup shots. You either have a "heck yeah" composition or you don't. Go all in or nothing at all.

[@bennig3237]

@@DaveMorrow that is the most bad ass DaveMorrow quote I've heared so far and I devoured all your podcasts. 😁

[@simonmaney3438]

@@DaveMorrow Yes, I understand your reasoning and it is something I have learned to consider with my shooting thinking (from you, thanks). However, when the light is kicking off, (if suitable) I'll try and get a pano sequence, and some quality single frames as part of that. Many years ago I took a lakeside pano in great light, turned out pretty good. I also produced a standard 2:3 image out of that, split over two pano frames. It would have been better to have that as one frame, where there weren't any of the inevitable pano alignment issues in the water to deal with.

[@paulkay8986]

Good video Dave. Hope you had a great Christmas bud

[@dcallan812]

Great video, nice to see you out in the field doing what yo love.

[@DaveMorrow]

Thank you!

[@RayMajoran]

Keep up the great work, Dave!

[@DaveMorrow]

Thanks!

[@cmichaelhaugh8517]

Nice to have you back! There are several key differences in our pano workflows. I’m going to have to think about them.

[@rphandler]

Dave, very nicely done video. Congratulations. Two advantages, for my taste, of panos vs. UWA is to avoid shrinking distant features such as magnificent mountains, and to avoid the angled-in verticals (trees) along the margins. For this it's necessary to use longer focal lengths, for instance in the 30-70mm range. When I shoot this way I usually choose portrait orientation in order to get enough vertical included without using a wider focal length and thus shrinking the background mountains. Shooting two pano rows is another technique but takes more time. Earlier this year in the Faroe Islands on day one I switched back and forth between my 24-70 and my 16-35. I found most of my photos with the 16-35 were at 35mm and all were above 24. After that I only used the 24-70 and shot many handheld panos at 33-50mm in portrait orientation with results I liked. (Actually, in the Faroes angled-in trees are never an issue since there are no forests!)

[@spencanelli]

That's one of my favorite camp spots. I'm always excited when I see somewhere I know in your videos.

[@DaveMorrow]

Solid spot! Wind can get pretty bad:)

[@spencanelli]

@@DaveMorrow It can, but the last two times it was so calm I woke up thinking I was in my home bed. Beautiful area, I'm curious if you made it the lessor known basin to the SW (highly recommended).

[@johnbragg2014]

So this spot is exactly where???

[@glennmara4026]

Superb! Great tips!

[@DaveMorrow]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ervinslens]

Fantastic work my friend! You filmed and elaborated this so professionally! Bravo

[@DaveMorrow]

Thanks for watching. Glad you liked it

[@scotty4418]

always a good day whenever your post Dave and a great source of information for anyone wanting to learn more about this subject

[@DaveMorrow]

Thanks!

[@shimmeringreflection]

Interesting you say to get rid of deadspace. I watched a really interesting video once about how many of the great master landscape artists keep the deadspace in, using it to their advantage to give emphasis to the main subject. In your case getting rid of it works, but keeping it in in certain cases can work really well too

[@valleyfella]

Great video, really helpful. Thanks Dave.

[@DaveMorrow]

No prob. You're welcome

[@JamesSmith-fv6vb]

Good tips. Thank you.

[@DaveMorrow]

Glad it was helpful!

[@medor6635]

I miss your content my friend🎉

[@DaveMorrow]

Back home this month doing some computer work so will release as many as I can:)

[@euskadi55]

Your videos are great and I like how do you explain step by step, thank you.

[@DaveMorrow]

You're welcome!

[@Bob4golf1]

Dave, was wondering if you've ever used a tilt/shift lens for pano. I've been using mine for a while now and it is much easier and a bit more precise. Since you never have to move the camera your stitching zones will be perfect. Using the Shift element allows you to start on one side and keep shifting to the other side overlapping by about 10%. Since you don't move the camera, only the lens shift element, pano algorithms are faster and more accurate and you don't see any artifacts in the stitching zones.

[@DaveMorrow]

No I haven't. Have never had any issue with the shown method not working with regular lenses. A rule of thumb from engineering: Don't add complexity to a process unless it 5Xs your results. Apply this to all choices in life and it'll remove your desire to "do things", and direct all attention towards improve the stuff that 5Xs the results. You find out there are only a few of them in your entire life. You end up doing way less work and getting much better results.

[@bennig3237]

@@DaveMorrow Amen.

[@Bob4golf1]

@@DaveMorrow I'm an engineer and I find trying new things to be enlightening but, each to his own. Anyhow, like you work.

[@michaelmckeag960]

I have a 24mm Nikon tilt-shift I have used for panoramas on rare occasion, when I wanted to preserve obvious vertical lines as vertical (conifer trunks for instance). Level the camera, shift lens to frame scene as desired, shoot the pano frames. I'm in the habit of using the grid lines, note landscape feature behind the right grid line, rotate until the left grid line is on that feature, shoot, repeat. I've occasionally shot a two-frame vertical pano, camera leveled, shift down for the lower frame, up for the upper frame. Again, only resort to this to preserve strong vertical lines (e.g. conifer trunks).

[@DaveMorrow]

@@Bob4golf1 same on the enlightening new things. That's the reason for the filtering process. Without it there are infinite new things, and finite time so in the limit the odds aren't good for finding the really enlightening stuff:) Thanks!

[@deniscaron9373]

For some odd reason, I always taught we had to shoot in manual mode for panos in order to make sure the settings remained the same.

[@DaveMorrow]

Only thing manual mode is good for is very low light when camera can't meter the scene

[@shimmeringreflection]

​@@DaveMorrowThanks for that gem of a tip