Measuring Squish Clearance on a 2 stroke engine

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

Thanks very much for this well-explained video. I was searching for an explanation of "squish". Another method to wind a double thickness of solder is to bend it once, press the bend together tightly and chuck it up in a drill. Place the other ends close together in a vice and operate the drill slowly. The more resistance you put on the drill, pulling away from the vice, the tighter and more even the twist will occur, although as the solder winds up it does shorten the overall length, so you need to allow the drill to move slowly towards the vice as you go.

[@ar2043]

The little U bend in the center of the solder piece facing forward tells you left or right? How is that when you could just flip it over 180° and then left becomes right and right becomes left? Thank you.

[@samiismail8690]

Very helpful video. Do you use an external mini micrometer to measure the compressed ends of the solder?

[@TheAbbott1986]

What do you recommend for squish clearance using your tsp high compression head just purchased one ready for my rebuild in next month or so 2016 KTM sx125

[@ponydown418]

Nice video. Thanks for the info!

[@tobberfutooagain2628]

What is the purpose of measuring this? Wrist pin and piston rod play?

[@BLINC606]

Thanks perfect explanation

[@carlosdasilva5112]

On the 2017 with a sx head, what would you recommend solder thickness I use to get down to 1.00mm? Currently not even getting any compression on 2.4mm solder. My base gasket is 0.80 and a 0.45mm so 1.25mm. Trying to get it dialed.

[@ar2043]

Is there anything wrong with the old technique of just bending a piece of solder and going through the spark plug hole and doing one side at a time? Thereby saving you the work of taking the head off? Thank you even though I've noticed you don't usually respond to questions.

[@TwoStrokePerformance]

If you do it through the plug hole on one side you’ll always get an incorrect reading as the piston with rock to one side. If you want to build a good engine it’s important to get the specs correct and it’s worth the extra time it takes to do it properly.

[@keithpeterson6108]

You can do it through the plug hole, but you need to be in line with the wrist pin to avoid piston rock.

[@matt2437]

why go to the 8 heat range and what is the optimal squish measurement

[@chodobaggins4506]

1.1 mm safe optimal

[@mullaway5746]

you said it was 1.9- 2mm what size gasket should u use .2 .4 .6 ?

[@thomaslockley81]

Do you still recommend an 8 plug for a 300?

[@Kolsch221]

What torque wrench do you have?

[@markgordon14]

what is the best recommend squish gap on a 2014 husky

[@performanceredline5395]

What is the smalles clerence you can go on a ktm50sx with vp t2 ?

[@FRANZOLLI144]

0,65 a 0,80

[@CW-up7xv]

Why not leave the ignition cover on and just use the kick start to rotate the crank?

[@ilham7345]

kickstart is one way, you'll easily miss the TDC

[@andreicd3740]

Hi! If i set my x dimension corect to 0 then i have squish 2 mm, gasket îs 0.7, if i put a thinner gasket then my x dimension Will be out of specs... Please tell me what to do... What îs more important to be corect, xdomension or squish... Because i can't make both corect. Thank you all replay

[@SwormCycles]

There will usually be no reply. I think that once you choose your base gasket and get your X dimension to 0, the only way to then get the correct squish measurement after using the solder method is to have the head machined down. That way your X stays the same but you are in essence lowering the head to create a tad bit more compression/torque/power etc. But in my years of racing, 99% of riders can't even ride the stock factory bike to its full potential so not sure any of this is even worth it to be honest.

[@zerolatency16]

Hey Dave! love your vids and products. What type of symptoms would improper squish cause? Let's say the difference is 0.2mm from factory spec of 0.1? I'm trying to diagnose an issue. My measurement was .3mm and manual says .1mm

[@maddensterling630]

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[@jswervy16]

@@maddensterling630 what? 🤦

[@jswervy16]

Not squish. Sorry, X dimension.

[@braylonderrick6927]

@Madden Sterling instablaster ;)

[@maddensterling630]

@Braylon Derrick I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@RROSS399]

why do you recommend BR8ES vs the BR7ES that comes stock on these bikes? my test came out at 1.75mm, think i need to get some different solder tho.

[@clementinedickson1150]

no you are wrong a BR8ES is colder than a BR7ES the heat range numbers on NGK spark plugs are 4 is the hottest plug though to 9 which is the coldest plug

[@mullaway5746]

Yep b8 is a colder plug

[@WillyD1]

BRRAAPPP250 be great if the guy doing video answered the question I thought he said it was hotter too,you’d think a colder plug would foul more not burn cleaner

[@carlmackenzie6430]

@@aussiepride8015 me too. 02 250 06 125 braa@AAAAAAAAAP

[@carlmackenzie6430]

@@clementinedickson1150 your wrong

[@BuildBreakFix]

most of all this was not needed to be done lol....... Just unscrew the spark plug, Put a piece of solder in the plug hole till you hit the side and rotate the back wheel some in high gear. then measure the solder....

[@TwoStrokePerformance]

Doing it that way always gets an incorrect measurement