Davit Winch Test and Modifications

[@davidbrosch480]

Loved your finish, but understand that there are people who watch you who are on a different journey. I watch your channel specifically when I’m in the hospital. I’ve had my fair share there and your upbeat, up and at-‘em, no bull is an inspiration for me to get back out there. Thanks!

[@SVSeeker]

What did I say "Get off your ass?" ...I think the hospital gives you an exemption. Just keep in mind that it's just a shoe. It's totally up to you to try it on. I did. I liked the fit. : ) Here is to: out there!

[@alexandermoeller6402]

Mechanical engineer here. You’re going to need more than one bearing to support that David pulley system. Yes having one right Next to the chain works but there’s still so much deflection. That bearing will get smoked super fast. Put one or two more bearings evenly spaced between the existing bearing and the support on the other side. Will take away most of your deflection and save you some major headache in the future. The boat is looking great!!

[@SVSeeker]

Considering the FPS and the duty cycle. We could use wood and it would outlive us all.

[@troyboyd3100]

@@SVSeeker I think end grain ironwood, with grease, would make a good bearing. They used to use that for wagon bearings. And it would have less compression than plastic. And, a few across the length of that pipe sounds like a good idea too.

[@Jonathan.D]

@@troyboyd3100 A family friend owns an old build the has an original Otis elevator serial number 112. To say it's old is an understatement. It uses either ironwood or similar for its guide rail. They just grease it a couple of times a year and it will last into the foreseeable future. People have forgotten how strong old-growth hardwood is.

[@TDOBrandano]

A small screw jack between the winch itself and a support bearing would probably help keeping the tension up too and might be less liable to slip than bolts through slots.

[@opendstudio7141]

Perhaps the 1/4" hull plating is just too light to carry the load without a backing plate to spread out the load. Unifying the whole motor mount and sprocket drive system into a single unit, then attached to the hull with connecting brackets might be the last option.

[@ChrisGlasgows]

You know I think being stuck there waiting is going to turn out to be a positive for Seeker. You are getting all of this time to find these little things while you are still local help.

[@mikebythesea45]

When I worked with agricultural equipment, there is a huge difference in chain quality. While twice the price, OEM chain from a known brand, JD, New Holland, is exponentially stronger than Tractor Supply and other china bulk roller chain. The cheap stuff stretches too much and rides the sprocket, which stretches it more until it pops. Also, when you have a chain “set”, the teeth must be in phase so the chain rides up and grabs the next tooth evenly to keep the load even between the chains. It doesn’t seem like much but if they’re not in phase, the load peaks will be more than 50% per chain, which defeats the purpose of double chains to split the load.

[@jeanphilippepoirier6130]

Reputable chain is pre-stretched by the manufacturer. Cheap import is not.

[@seanlathbury5410]

Found the very same thing. Good on you for remembering to share

[@jasonmendela1020]

Sometimes... ya just have to let them live and learn. Its a great philosophy. However, you won't live long enough to learn all the mistakes that could have been easily learned.

[@kooldoozer]

@@jasonmendela1020 I don't see a lot of learning going on here. Just a lot of rebuke.

[@netautorisationnetautorisa545]

*WHO "WILL" SUPPORT ..."COMMUNIST CHINA"..!! I PAY FOR "REAL" THINGS* *AND WILL .."NOT".. HELP TO (DESTROY MY OWN COUNTRY)* *...NEVER IN MY **#LIFE** .. I AM NOT A **#IDIOT** ...*

[@biggametex]

I have covid pneumonia and have been coughing up blood for a week. Looks like I might be on the mend but it will be 6 weeks before I can go back to work. Your videos are a joy to my day brother. Be safe with those fingers.... had an uncle remind me to not put my fingers anywhere I wouldn't put my pecker.... lol

[@cameronnerdin4910]

WELL OK!! I got your message, I was relaxing just a little bit today, but back to work I go. :) Life is beautiful thanks.

[@einmensch4040]

The most important message is right at the end. Thanks!

[@-Loki--]

I know nothing about anything I see on this channel, I just enjoy watching and learning a few things. Keeping it simple.

[@wesleywillard]

Watch your upload this am. Then went and worked on my own boat that I've built. Didn't plan on it today after a long ass week at work . But your message was motivating. Thanks.

[@rastafishermanfiji6796]

Your philosophy is so helpful at the end of this. Weather has not been suitable to fish this weekend but your philosophy has got me up doing something constructive making stuff. Grateful to you!!!

[@todfox170]

you could put some convex shape to the davit roller pulley to help the strap track to the center better, like a bandsaw pulley. love your videos, keep up the great work Doug!!!

[@taxirock90]

Was gonna say the same thing. With a crown on the pulley it might help.

[@k9wiREless]

yep, a convex pulley may look unconventional by it works. science

[@FranklinNewhart]

I am subscribed to Ship Happens. As for watching your videos and Ship Happens is the fact that I am retired and in my 70's and live a long way away from water now. But when I was younger I restores a 7 ton wooden motor sailer and did a lot of sailing with the Oneida II. But I am sill not completely retired. I am building a 1930's SG 38 Schulgliter as well as building a 1930's midget Racer and oh yeah I have to keep working on my wifes 1949 Studebaker Champion. I also drive a 1971 Honda CB 350 that is a One Owner. A lot of year of fun biking.

[@markbernier8434]

What I've seen work (huge loads, 24/7 operation ) is double or triple chain, such as is used on fork trucks. Also make them longer and add a chain tensioner that you can adjust without moving the powered item. Much better than slots that will let the seas in. Far easier to take up a half turn on an adjuster than moving all that powered stuff. Others have addressed the strap issues. Must admit I would have used regular blocks and dyneema line.

[@SVSeeker]

The elevator lift used separate chains and sprockets with teeth, 1/2 tooth out of sync. No idea why they designed it like that but I have to replace those too. And the stainless steel chain was something I already had from another project. And, It's working. : )

[@mikenorton632]

Simple fix, instead of 2 separate chains, use a double link chain, add a pair of supports for the shaft evenly spaced on the transom. Or move the drive motor and sprockets to the center of the transom. Either way you need a double link chain and sprockets.

[@SVSeeker]

Can't without also changing the sprockets on the elevator lift as the teeth are 1/2 a tooth out of alignment. And they are really expensive in stainless steel.

[@ShipHappensUK]

Thank you for the mention Doug! I don't know how we inspire and motivate you as you are a highly motivated person and you are unstoppable! Your bottom will be wet in no time as we all know by now you get stuff done!

[@TheGnomestead]

Congratulations guys! Your in the big-time now! Don't forget us lil guys when you get Uber famous 😉😁😅

[@flounderguts]

I'm concerned about your use of flat straps...IME, they tend to twist and slide while a boat is pitching. I'm curious to see how your system will work in moderate to heavy seas. Nice that you'll be able to fab a solution at sea!

[@royreynolds108]

It "looks" to me that 1 of several things may be happening with the chains powering the tender lift. 1. The sprocket pairs don't match in teeth or diameter ( large or small) 2. The chains may not be the same length 3. The chains and sprockets may not match in pitch 4. The chains and sprockets are not in alinement with each other. It does not take much of any one of these conditions to be "out" for the problems you are experiencing to show. If you need 2 chains to lift the tender, you might consider changing from 2 single chains to one double chain which will entail replacing both sets of sprockets and the chain, but that arrangement probably will be more reliable in the long run.

[@cleon_teunissen]

Yeah, most of the time all of the load will be on only one of the chains (with occasional shift from one to the other). I'm not sure the bracing that you installed is sufficient. The idea is: you only need to prevent the motor from co-rotating with the long axle, other than that: for alignment it is best if the motor follows any flexing of that long axle. For a mounting that accomplishes that you would need a second bearing, with a mounting such that the motor sprocket is kept in alignment/positioning with the axle sprocket, and something like a rod connection (universal joint rod) between the motor and the boat frame. That way the motor is free to follow any flexing of the long axle (keeping the sprockets aligned), but will still wind the flat webbing straps. (Comparison: in a car the transmission is bolted onto the engine, not bolted onto the car frame.)

[@adamthreapleton9149]

Exactly what I was going to say.

[@scottyb069]

Was thinking something similar, when you look at the video the outboard sprocket seems to be feeding chain at a slightly higher rate than the inboard sprocket, leading me to think that there may be a 1 tooth difference or a pitch / diameter difference between the sprockets. An outrigger bearing support would also help its lifespan.

[@bytex2]

They are alternating slack. I vote for number 4 :)

[@vxnova1]

Yea the only thing I can think of is 1 bigger heavier chain instead of 2.

[@aquious953]

I go around and hit areas starting to rust with fluid film. Works really well.

[@malc380]

I've followed your videos from day one, as a disabled person it's been inspirational and helped get back to welding, I also follow Gemma and Simon (Ship Happens) the make me feel like anything is possible! Thank you one and all!

[@ShipHappensUK]

Anything is possible if you put in the hard work and stick at it! Doug has proved that! Xx

[@mikepelz7004]

Love the Ship Happens Channel !

[@ohcrapwhatsnext]

When you finally get the winch sorted out, make a cover for the chains and sprocket..OSHA hahahaha

[@SVSeeker]

Fuck that. If you can't figure out to keep your balls out of there, then it's best you not have any.

[@phdconstructioncork]

Sorry too busy to watch this week Im busy making something today!!🤣🤣🤣. Hope you get afloat soon 🙏 sir. Watching in 🇮🇪 Ireland

[@MuttMuttOutdoors]

That's a chunk of deflection for sure. Sadly the cheap chain tends to stretch and deform a ton when new. It's almost like it needs to be hardened a bit and they just skipped that step. But anyway I am sure you will get it all figured out. Been roofing again. It's a pain doing it alone but got about 15% of the 2000 sq feet done and that had cuts along the one side with about 1/2 of them being angle cuts. Going to take a break for the holiday and then get another section torn off and sheathed, underlayment installed and then roofed. Probably end up splitting each side into quarters or somewhere around there but hopefully have it all done and NEVER have to do it again. Have a good holiday Doug and I'm sure you have a place to head to but if not drop a line and head my way. It's only about 60 miles out here and a nice drive along 412 and 64.

[@cfewbopmech73]

Hay doug I love your vids have watched them all reminds me of being able to fix fabricate and build anything I'm now disabled in wheelchair blew my back to bits at work can't wait to see you in the water chur chur from tauranga new Zealand

[@dozer1642]

You are such an inspiration Doug.

[@67bajaconv]

I appreciate YOU, Doug. The videos, the project, the ups and downs are just part of the picture, it's your attitude that really makes the difference.

[@SVSeeker]

Thanks. It's the attitude that takes most of the work and is also the most rewarding.

[@sparkydave2783]

Hi Doug. That’s a pitch mis-match issue on that chain bud (haven’t watched to the end, maybe you figure it out). That’s why the chain is climbing the sprockets teeth I think. Chain stretched? I’d be surprised. Metric vs. imperial maybe 🤔🤪😂

[@SVSeeker]

No, it was just alignment. ..and I could grind more chamfer in to the sides of the teeth.

[@rudebwoycardo487]

The sprocket on the end needs to be a little bigger then the one on the inside

[@robwells2952]

@@SVSeeker defiantly a pitch problem. we did this at collage . study duplex chain drive. Doug think about the diameters/pitch of sprockets. chains will constantly fight each other ware on sprockets will be abnormal.

[@absoluteelectricandmainten7432]

Really cool problem solving. Is it possible the transom of the ship itself is also flexing? Would it be beneficial to weld a rigid plate in place to keep the motor rigidly in place? It may not be the primary problem, but would it help to provide secondary rigidity?

[@SVSeeker]

Yes, it’s flexing a bit, but not much. Shims did most of the work. Just needed To straighten the elevator Drive match the shaft.

[@ericed69]

Larger diameter davit pulleys would take more pull stress off your system also. Just my point of view. Thank you for all the years of videos. I have enjoyed every one.

[@ericed69]

Sorry, one more thing. Is the metal the gear motor connected too, flexing as well? Just a thought. Thanks

[@vancebooker459]

I have been watching Ship Happens since the first month!

[@christopherwebber1104]

Harbor freight titanium or tantrum 110v small welder works awesome. Welded 3/8 good. Pulls very little, and is super light. Pushed it to thermal shutdown and it took a while.

[@okdiver589]

I need to remember that. ( Appreciate what you have today. )

[@kenutton992]

I don’t know how to express my love of your migivership abilities.

[@thegadphly3275]

Having done my boat dream, when she hits the water, your entire set of issues are gonna change. CHeers.

[@joseperez-vy2xy]

Between motor reduction gear box and shaft use a tensioner torsion arm with a bearing on the shaft close to the gear and perhaps substitute the single chains for double slat chain

[@SVSeeker]

I may try one of those Floating tensioners at the elevator or box was designed for two sprockets and not a duel chain. The teeth on the sprockets are half a tooth offset. Not sure why they did that.

[@aleksa_natanke]

Хороший проект. Удачные паруса, отличная команда! Поздравляю вас с наступающим 2023 Новым годом! Желаю удачи, здоровья, успехов в труде!

[@stevenr8606]

Thanks for more teaching of Life's ups & downs BTW, you get lots of informative COMMENTS, too! Shows the 💟 you get.

[@stevenr8606]

BTW, PLEASE cover the chain & sprockets. They are finger, and everything else, separators.

[@SVSeeker]

I like that there right at Nutsack height. I figure that if you’re stupid enough to get your nuts in there that you will undo some of the damage done to human DNA by bicycle helmets.

[@stevenr8606]

👍 🤣🤣🥴 hey, 🦈 gotta eat too! 😎

[@andrewmullen4003]

Thanks Doug, been following Ship Happens for a while, but as you say true grit, big boat !

[@brucerazor5202]

You always lift my day

[@withoutthinking3703]

Ship happens is great and have watched all yours 😉 had a lot of down time at one point still keep up to date but watch yours and there’s as I know it helps and pays you shame your not in water yet but it will come

[@andrewvancoillievlogs5911]

Doug great work on the boat love the content... Just a suggestion you should install a breaking system on the main lift shaft not to break when lowering but to hold when in transit, I've seen the break in motors just like yours fail an if you're break faild when sailing you might sink your dingy

[@SVSeeker]

Yes. There are a couple of things done for whale boats that I saw and liked while at Mystic Seaport. That will be coming later.

[@hjonedmonds]

I could not tell for sure but it looked like your sprockets were not in time with each other, it will make a difference if you have a strap link or a roller link coming over the top when you are running duel chains,

[@SVSeeker]

They are not. They are a 1/2 tooth out. Just like the sprockets on the elevator drive. No idea why that designed it like that, but that's what they did.

[@tommuhlemanjr.3871]

Hey sir, the problem with your winch reel is that the shaft that you were sitting on, is bent and causing the chain sprockets to be out of alignment. Also, apparently the two chains are different lengths or have stretched to different lengths. You aren’t going to be able to fix the problem until you fix the cause. Good luck! Now I’ll finish watching the video.

[@peripheralarbor]

Looks to me like there are two things happening with the roller chain. One is that the sprockets are eccentric, so the chain comes in and out of tension. The second is that when the chain comes under tension it stretches, so that it doesn't match the pitch of the sprocket, which increases the tension more. I think that is why they are riding up and popping.

[@SVSeeker]

I think I just need a little more chamfer on the teeth if anything at all.

[@peripheralarbor]

@@SVSeeker Yeah, try the easiest stuff first. You could open up the gaps in the sprocket a little if the chain stretch continues to cause problems.

[@SVSeeker]

@@peripheralarbor That’s the plan.

[@jonathancook4022]

Great ending message

[@maxine122]

Beautiful Boat

[@tobewobedj]

Amazing troubleshooting, fabrication and resolution! Excellent work! I am so impressed with your ability to fab on the boat - great design execution arent you glad you put so much thought into electronics and power generation? Kudos buddy.

[@mgrantom]

If you can't get the bushing to work, you could look at a worm drive to eliminate the chains altogether. It would have an added safety feature since currently if both chains break, you will dump the tender and possibly get hurt. They are used on boat lifts all over the Gulf Coast.

[@SVSeeker]

Thanks mom we’ll be careful

[@multicammando]

Would switch out for something other than flat straps also. Still change out the roller style up too and and some more bearings spread out to decrease the deflection. Other grab a laser level and cast a line up and down everything just to verify it's all inline. Just some thoughts like everyone else. 🙂

[@SVSeeker]

Might use line but it's a lot better to try it first before giving up. Too many give up too easily. And the boat's life points were built to the davits. Besides, we're not going to get laser level when lifting from rough seas. : )

[@njipods]

the problem with 2 chains is a classic one you see in lots off engineering like using 2 regulators (electrical or pneumatic) unless there 100 percent perfect to each other (not possible) one will always do all the work. they make duplex chain for this reason though

[@SVSeeker]

That's an exaggeration, but as the second chain is redundancy it also makes no difference.

[@paulm3080]

@@SVSeeker It's mismatched pitch, the sprockets are loading each chain at a slightly different point, and each tooth increases the error until it's too great and the chain jumps. You just need 2 double sprockets and a double chain. Have run these of combines for 30 years with no problems, just can't time 2 separate sprockets unless they're keyed on the shaft in exactly the same position. You'll get there. Hope to see you on the water soon. ;-)

[@SVSeeker]

@@paulm3080 You should talk to the guy that designed the elevator it came out of. : )

[@court2379]

@@SVSeeker Initially he is largely right, and what you demoed it is definitely the case. You can see the slack in the tension side of one chain. One is slightly longer (or closer) than the other so the shorter will take the whole load. As long as they are close to start as it wears they will even out. Unfortunately I think you are going to have troubles with in until you put independently adjusted idlers, with adjusting screws (not springs), pushing inward. Then the large differences can be compensated for, and pushing inward will increase the chain contact with the sprocket reducing the chance of slipping. I hate to say this as I know you don't like it, but that looked pretty dangerous wiggling that chain under load the way you did. It could have been the little bit extra needed to cause it to slip another tooth. Use a screw driver or something and keep your fingers. I get it when it's things like guards that make it difficult to work, take longer or otherwise interfere, but cases like this there is no need. Pliers or any rod would work. Good luck figuring this one out. The lack of rigidity of things could make it problematic hopefully the bearing was enough.

[@nloggraficas]

I am not engineer but I don’t need to much knowledgement to say the same as the others guys here, those sprocket aren’t matched and it’s easy to see it, better to use double chains sprocket.. it’s up to you to continue with it or change the whole thing

[@LifeOnTheHulls]

Love your problem solving Doug, also love the reuse of the steel from the trailer, watch out you don't take too much away from it before you get in the water.Rossco

[@jfv65]

Some side guidance will help but you can also make the roller slightly barrel shaped. The barrel shape will help the strap self-centering on the pulley. They do the same on engine timing belt setups and in the past the used it on belt driven farm equipment.

[@SVSeeker]

Yeah, I've tried that with little to no success but I may give it another shot here.

[@cliffjamerson3107]

Damm Doug you just gitter down good luck keep on trucking

[@alwaysinsideout]

Your chain looked like an O Ring chain. They stretch to easy on high loads. I choose an X Ring chain on my motorcycle. Maybe that will help you. Also keep an eye on the bearings? May need different bearing setup?

[@jakereich]

If there's any stretch in that flat webbing you used, you might actually (counterintuitively) need a convex pulley to stop the strap walking off. Something about the differential stretch across the webbing means it will self-correct. Could be wrong, so don't just take my word for it!

[@jay90374]

Nope, you're correct! Same as sanding belts.

[@SVSeeker]

I picked up a couple of keel rollers for a boat trailer. They have short side to them so I think they'll work good.

[@jakereich]

Whatever works is all good! Keep it up. I love this project!

[@jorgensalomonsson6739]

@@SVSeeker add a link so that they can swing.. I’ll think you’re good

[@court2379]

I had similar thoughts, you would think a pulley with flanges works better, but actually causes a flat belt to slide off. A crowned pulley will help. It looked like it was hanging uneven too. The crown may not be enough compensation. Good luck Doug.

[@Mick.Porter]

Hey Doug. Just my 2¢ but if you look at the time 13:57 it looks like the davit arms are flexing and throwing the alignment off for the pulleys making the web belt track. If the davit is only used for that boat, measure the distance between the lift points on the boat and weld a spar between the davit arms to keep the same space under the heavy load of the boat.

[@SVSeeker]

I think it will move a lot more than that when at sea. : )

[@common-sense-is-dead]

Is this boat ever going to be put in the water?

[@SVSeeker]

Tuesday

[@jamesknape2883]

We used to use straps on our Corsair Trimaran to raise the mast using the trailer winch. Several people with the same boats had the straps break and the mast fell down during the raising process. The designer specifies to only use dyneema line on the trailer winches if the trailer winch is used to raise or lower the mast. Straps fail two ways, one the sun weakens the nylon. Two a fray becomes the weak link and the strap tears from edge to edge. Inspect your straps often, of go to dyneema

[@SVSeeker]

Everything gets old and breaks. Even dyneema.

[@jamesknape2883]

@@SVSeeker yep but dyneema on the raceing sailboats I am used to lasts way longer than the polyester and nylon lines while taking far higher loads and chafe. Dyneema is fantastic

[@MJ-iy4fb]

Did you rebuild the belt pully yet? I was thinking you need a center crowned pulley wheel like a band saw pulley or old farm equipment used to use, that would keep the belt on center.

[@SVSeeker]

Video is up now on patreon. www.patreon.com/svseeker

[@Blueridge-Doc]

Watching you problem solve is the the beauty of your vid’s . Moving your , drive and gears , to the center of the axil ,would have returned symmetry to the problem , and solved the puzzle . Ray At Sea , watching you.

[@Jonathan.D]

One of the designers at my dad's marina decided to control the davits on his seawall with a garage door controller. My dad told him it would work but would have issues with interference. Being the early 80s those controllers were not as secure as they are today. So of course he gets home and finds the bow of his boat almost to the top and the stern was in the water. He tried to change the settings but the next day his wife called him from home. She said it was fine until a little after 5pm. As people came home it started going up and down. 😆

[@rudywoodcraft9553]

Congrats on the boat-based shop in full production--quite an accomplishment!

[@jram7047]

Is there something to keep the boat from just falling down if both chains break? My mind went to thinking a ring and pinion setup but with deflection it probably would just skip a tooth

[@SVSeeker]

Water

[@TheBarbarian193]

Man i just love seeing the intelligence and adaptability you guys display on here.

[@J.Smith-rc6wh]

your solar powered CNC is just the coolest

[@SVSeeker]

I was using it again today. Hard to run it an not giggle.

[@SVImpavidus]

Hi Doug. Constructively, the bearing is helping but looking at the video in slow-mo it looks like the ratio of the motor drive sprockets to the shaft sprockets is off. It's all about Ti-ming 😁The ancient art of Japanese synchronicity. The smallest differential in any of the drive sprockets to shaft sprockets is multiplied by number of revolutions. This is why it starts off fine then goes out of sink causing the chain to be forced in to jumping the sprocket. All four sprockets do not appear to be the same ratio (sizes). Look at your footage in slow mo. Note the lag in the chain drives one to the other. Something is out of size. When you make your new strap rollers; give them a flange but don't make the centre section flat. Make it convexed like the old time belt drive worksop pulley's were. This helps keep them running central and in lign. Hope this helps. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

[@SVSeeker]

Sorry, I have the ability to look at it many more times. And from many more angles. Pardon me if I trust my eyes. :-)

[@bradpalmer2914]

Ship Happens rocks! I love those guys. Both work full time and they are still restoring a WWII wreck and raising 2 kids. Serious motivation

[@backwoodsentertainment358]

Been watching Ship happens for a while...love the project but that is soooo much boat to work on out in the marsh..I really hope they succeed cause it a beautiful boat..

[@bitsnpieces11]

From my days of motorcycle riding and other chain drive things: The chain and sprocket teeth don't match in pitch. That's why it keeps popping off. Either the sprockets are worn or the chain is the wrong size, most likely the sprockets. You can see the chain climbing the teeth until it finally pops over to the next one. You can get split sprockets (from side to side) that bolt into place and can be changed as they wear.

[@SVSeeker]

Those are sprockets I made, the only thing they might need is a bit more bevel on the side of the teeth, but there working good enough as is.

[@bitsnpieces11]

@@SVSeeker Check the form of the teeth they should not be straight up the side. They should have a shape that cups the roller of the chain to retain it. There should be stuff on line from bearing/gear companies that discuss the shape of the teeth. I can see the chain roller climbing up the tooth as it goes into strain just before it pops off and to the next tooth.

[@richardsteele928]

The stainless chain well needs a good lubrication system. Preferably a wet system where the lower sprocket runs in oil. The motor must have adjusting bolts so the pull of the chains will not move the motor out of adjustment. Non-stainless chain well lubed would last longer.

[@SVSeeker]

A little grease is ok but you can't us oil over the water.

[@malachy1847]

A Double spring Loaded Idler Sprocket attached to the Bulkhead that would keep constant tension up the sprocket chain thus allowing the slackness to be taken out of the chain...

[@ES-xc6fk]

Do you have some type of safety catch that clicks going up but going down would catch unless you manually kept if from doing that, similar to a car lift safety feature? Just wondered what would stop it from free falling if both chains broke? I have a boat lift that was built in the early 50's that was designed to lift classic wood boats from the D rings and its a cable in cable out system like how your old outboard steering is wrapped around the hub. My grandfather built his boat track system like that in the early 60's. Would be happy to email photos of both if could aid in something in the future. Thanks for all you share.

[@SVSeeker]

Water would stop it from falling if both chains broke. : )

[@ES-xc6fk]

@@SVSeeker Doug that was so funny when I just noticed you responded. I agree but not so good if when you were practicing over the trailer or pavement. lol. Was so cool to see your response, maybe someday will send you photos of what I have done.

[@lorengolliher2712]

I've been watching you for a very long time you inspired me to do so many different things over the years and dream big no matter what I started watching you when you built the submarine and the reason I started watching you is cuz I was looking to break some metal pans and wasn't for sure where to start and you had a good tutorial on how to make a simple break for making pans it inspired me so much that I literally have built my own outdoor furnace that heat my house

[@JoeSylve]

I wonder if a slightly concave pulley would help self-center that strapping and prevent it from running up on you like that.

[@SVSeeker]

Might, but I've not had good results with that in the past.

[@jhoncho4x4]

2 Harbor Freight winches, on port and starboard sides, with rope instead of cable, could be a simple solution and takes less room. Individual control available too.

[@avrohalt9133]

try a duplex chain and duplex sprocket set and install a chain tensioner simple jockey wheel should work fine.

[@paulwswift5226]

Might I suggest directly driving the shaft using a small truck differential? Find one with a suitable gear ratio from the scrap yard. Have to move the winch though. Hope to see you on the water soon!

[@SVSeeker]

Only if it was a model T

[@Turkrypty]

Doug For the pulleys for the flat webbing you need the pulleys to look like this () the curve will keep the belt in the center by forcing the outsides of the belt to run slower then the inside because of the different radius's in that shape pulley. If you look at the end end rollers in a belt sander they have a tiny bit bigger center diameter then end diameter. this along with proper alignment helps keep the flat belts in the center

[@SVSeeker]

Yeah I've had lackluster experience with that on my belt sander, but I might give it a try.

[@DrCyberpunk1987]

Scratch my last. You've just done what I was going to suggest!

[@TheFeller1554]

I think the easiest way to stop those chains from popping off is to put the sprockets and motor in the center of the shaft. I think what is happening is, in a non loaded state the driven sprockets are parallel with the motor. As you load it the shaft it deflects, and the driven sprockets are no longer parallel with the drive sprockets. So in that case think of it like a differential in a truck. The inside chain is turning slower by a tiny amount than the outboard chain. Where in a differential when you turn and your rear wheels are moving at different speeds you have a mechanism to let one of the wheels slip in order not break the axle half shafts. If you had one larger series chain and sprockets, you could probably get by with the location you currently have. Even if you shim and adjust it like it is, it will always give you problems.

[@SVSeeker]

: ) That is creative thinking. I hope to go on the build things.

[@littlesister3477]

Have you considered attaching a chain tensioner similar to a cars fanbelt tensioner? If you put one on each chain they would act independently of each other keeping constant tension on each chain or even something similar to what's used on a 10 speed bikes rear wheel ?

[@SVSeeker]

If I do add a tensioner it will be more like a bit of plastic or a floating tensioner.

[@littlesister3477]

@@SVSeeker that's kind of what I meant, the one on my car engine has a spring pushing on the tensioning wheel keeping a constant tension on it , actually the bike one also does if you push on it ,it will spring back against the chain when you let go. I'm a thousand pct positive that you will come up with the perfect fix. Your an amazingly smart man who never ceases to amaze me with how well your designs turn out. I was just putting my 2 cents in lol. Can't wait to see you splash her.

[@pavelavietor1]

holy crap put that boat in the water, saludos Merry Christmas

[@SVSeeker]

Tuesday

[@pavelavietor1]

@@SVSeeker hello congratulations you are my hero. Saludos Merry Christmas

[@williebulletman5217]

Well said life is a blink of your eyes

[@snapper2784]

Doug you are 100% right.

[@billtheunjust]

Am I seeing it right that if both chains popped off the tender would free fall?

[@SVSeeker]

Yes, but don’t worry. I am going to install water underneath the tender. ; )

[@billtheunjust]

@@SVSeeker and some keep clear stickers too? :)

[@grandpadado3267]

If you put your 3/8" plate between your saddle bearing and the 2 bolts on the motor (you looked at first)you will remove the flex between the 2 sprockets. Should keep the chain down in the grooves of the sprockets. You are basically tying the motor shaft and the winch shaft together so they will not move apart. I am not good at explaining things. I have been around a long time though. Lol

[@SVSeeker]

Yeah, that would work. But it's working fine without messing with the motor too, and if I ever switch to a hydraulic motor I can leave the brace.

[@jorgensalomonsson6739]

I just got an idea for a tensioner that works both ways.. - a wheel between the sprockets that you pull towards the small one to tension..- so that it can swing to the slack side..

[@SVSeeker]

Ok. But the chains are only loaded on one side. Up or down.

[@JohnSmith-lw2bm]

Chain tension is pulling motor and gearbox up the slide holes. Need tension bolts to hold it down.

[@SVSeeker]

No, it's holding tight.

[@kennethellison9713]

Watching you cannibalize bits out of your support structure reminds me of Wile E. Coyote cutting off the tree branch he's standing on. I hope you don't come across too many more projects that need 3/8" steel plate!

[@jamesglavich1426]

Great video as always. I think a couple wood bearings will carry the load, to help with the shaft flex. I also would install a brake on the shaft similar to a manual boat trailer winch, just in case both chains happen to fail or snap. Just a thought. Its great to have that mobile machine shop with you. Most boaters have to try to guess which spare parts to carry with them, but you can make a lot of the parts, or reengineer them a little. Thanks for the great videos.

[@SVSeeker]

I'm going to install water below the tender so if it falls it hits water.

[@sparrow082]

When the boat is pitching and rolling, what are the chances the engine room door will slam into the V Mac?

[@SVSeeker]

None. There is a door latch that will stop the door and hold it open. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZWoeKmup6ZlnJo

[@chuckfoster4959]

Hi Doug, for that flat strap that rides to the edge of that pulley, it might be a long shot, but I once saw a demonstration that a convex roller will keep a strap like (in the demo it was a rubber band) from wandering to either side. It's counter-intuitive, and had to do with the band (strap) material stretching more in the middle. Something about that caused it to ride to the high spot, oddly enough. Might be worth a shot to see if it works on that strapping. Since you have so much weight on it, it might behave like a band?

[@SVSeeker]

Yeah, a lot of folk commented with that. My experience with it on my belt sander has been lackluster.

[@timherring6720]

I work in my shop and watch well more listen to you videos

[@SVSeeker]

So you like the sound of grinders. Ok

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

Looks like with good sun and fair winds the endurance limit for Seeker will be food, even while doing work. A thought on the chains, but not for fixing the tension issues since you have plenty of advice about that. Your boat, your choice. I just want to aid you with some experience and knowledge I have that you don't. I know what your opinion is on safety, but this is more of an icy ground in front of a hand sized wood chipper danger; easy to prevent, but it takes a little fabrication to do and can not be trusted to just being careful with the conditions the device will be working in. Since the likelihood of the deck being slick and going back and forth in rough or even slightly rough seas is going to happen when you will need to lower the tender at some point, it would be a good idea to put an expanded or perforated metal cage around the chain and sprockets. The concern isn't having the mechanism grabbing clothing and strangling the operator since the controls are right there, but instead is losing your footing and a hand going into the space and a finger or part of a wrist (with the assistance of clothing pulling it in for the wrist) and it getting badly mangled or cut off really roughly. In the moment of losing your balance and then realizing you have your hand in the mechanism enough travel will happen to cause a pretty nasty and painful injury. I suggest expanded or perforated metal since it will hold up to people and most things bouncing into it and it will allow the space to not collect water and be observable. A quick open latch and hinges or pins so you can get at it easily would make getting in there to work on it easy and fast. I bring this up even with where the pinch points are since the footing can get so chaotic there and an arm can fit right in that hole while reaching to grip something to stay standing, which you will do reflexively when falling and your brain will not be picky about where it reaches for or even if you can reach it. It's pure reflex. I also bring it up since I have been on a safety board at a manufacturing plant and we had an accident under very similar circumstances of lost footing and an arm ending up in an unlikely place. That chain and sprocket was a bit bigger, but the mode of how the hand got in there was actually very likely according to the finally report from the engineering team and just a matter of time. I am not calling for covering ever possible chain or pulley on the boat, just this one since it is actually a larger danger than it looks like. Your boat, your choice. I just wanted to aid you with some experience and knowledge I have to make it better. Of course, this could be all moot if you changed the entire mechanism if this one keeps hopping the chains off. Oh, and the pulleys for rope and the webbing are not not nearly as dangerous as a chain and sprocket since they don't grab things as easily. Still dangerous on a boat, but much easier to avoid with behavior than this.

[@jameshopkins1260]

The Bar that the larger sprocket is on looks bowed.

[@SVSeeker]

Only when my fat ass is sitting on it.

[@kirbylee57]

Whats been going on with the launch delay, anything good?

[@SVSeeker]

Yeah, we got the tender lift sorted out. : )

[@kirbylee57]

@@SVSeeker great

[@purpleom9649]

Doug I will have to disagree with you, I've watched all your videos (and other people who inspire me) but that doesn't mean I sit all day watching KZbin, when I come in and want to relax I don't watch TV, I watch more KZbin videos like yours. I will just say the inspiration you have given to 1000's upon 1000's across the world can't be quantified, I can only talk for myself but until you said "get out there and make something" I didn't really do much at all in the way of creation, now I have taken on projects that I would never have dreamed of before. What makes you able to inspire? well it's the determination, courage, hard work, and ability you get across in your videos. Yes, I know, I haven't sent photos of what I've made (bad viewer) but one day I will. I would just like to say thank you for fundamentally changing my life for the better. I have built a workshop from scratch and equipped it (all with next to no money) and always have a project on the go (I still have all my fingers) Please keep up the videos when you launch/sail and if you are ever in UK waters I'm a few minutes from Ramsgate harbour (SE England) and would be more than happy to give my time to help in anyway I can.

[@pgnandt]

At 5:19 you can clearly see that the two large sprockets are not lined up. This can all be fixed with minimum expense. Buy 4 snatchblocks and enough rope to replace your strapping and use one chain and sprocket at the lift. 2 snatchblocks will cut your load weight in half. Mount the motor so there is no slack in the chain. Should be needless to say but this is just to lift the tender up to the davit chains. The tender is stowed from the davit chains not the winch.

[@SVSeeker]

I just put a shim in there, and it's working fine. The rest is what you should do on your boat.

[@pgnandt]

@@SVSeeker Yes just sharing what I would do on my boat because safety first. I'm sure you're used to people trying to help. Thanks for the great videos. She's a beauty.

[@honeypancakefam281]

A duplex chain should resolve the problem Cheers from South Africa

[@SVSeeker]

I considered one, but they are very pricy in stainless steel.

[@jakobrebeki]

its good that you can do all these fit ups and testing while waiting on permission to hit the water. better next to a shop then 75 miles off the coast. thanks for posting Doug....