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June 22, 2022
"We're not worthy!!"
Camino De Santiago Day 30: Astorga to Santa Catalina de Somoza
8.9 km. (5.53 miles)
We headed out today at noon for a short hiking day. I think in the pilgrim world this is a very rare, late start time. Because of our foot issues, we wanted to take advantage of our hotel's 12:00 pm check out time. And we absolutely soaked up every last minute of it.
We honestly were not even sure if we'd be hiking at all today depending on our ability to walk. As we left the hotel, I told the elderly owner that I did not want to leave. He took my hand and gave it a kiss in appreciation and then wished us well.
We took a detour off the trail to find a banco in Astorga before heading out of the city. We always try to have a small amount of euros and snacks on hand because many small villages do not have a banco or even a market.
A storm was building in the horizon. I had wrapped my feet pretty effectively and so we were able to move fairly quickly through the adjacent town of Valdeviejas.
Here a small church invited us in with it's open door. We lit a candle and then quickly beelined it back to the Camino trying to beat the incoming rain predicted for 2:00. We made it to Murias de Rechivaldo just before 1:00.
Then the skies opened and unleashed a heavy downpour an hour before the predicted forecast just in time for us to duck into a small bar/cafe and enjoy a tuna sandwich and drinks. The local town's people were so warm here. One man warned us about the weather while a group of women smiled and wished us a "Buen Camino."
I'm not sure if I've mentioned the cafe/bar bathrooms in Spain. They are so clean! Almost every bathroom we've paid a visit to has been spotless as if someone literally just cleaned it before our arrival. And, they all have soap. I remember reading posts in the past about soap not always being available. I'm thinking COVID has changed all that.
With a break in the rain, we headed back out. For the most part we had the trail to ourselves except for one other pilgrim who we met in the previous town from Florida. She was finishing up a 31 km day!
I had brought an old Ipod to Spain that we have only used once in the past month because for the most part we've just enjoyed the sounds of nature and conversation. But it felt like a good time to play music, I think all the greenery was making my soul dance. So we did just that. We danced amongst the trees. Very carefully of course with all our foot ailments.
I'm thinking the weather Gods thought we were doing some type of rain dance as more rain arrived washing away any concerns we had for the day. We enjoyed it. It felt like a cleansing of sorts. It also allowed my mind to wander. The Camino does that. It gives you nothing but time to think.
I think one of the most important tools we can teach our children is self worth. This is something I know I've struggled with in my own life. Am I worthy of being here? Am I worthy of entering the town church? Or a kiss on the hand? Or of even sharing my thoughts and writing these posts?
We made it to Santa Catalina de Somoza just before the third round of rain arrived. I'm absolutely loving the architecture in this small village. Almost all the buildings are made of stone. It looks like something out of an old fairy tale really.
Our stay tonight is at Via Avis, another gem just a stone's throw off the Camino. It's just gorgeous, rich in color and atmosphere. The owners offered to do our laundry and so we let them as our clothes hand washed from the previous day were still damp. We also showered, called home, and went into town for pizza which was just about a block away.
We each ate our own whole entire pizza. The Camino provides. It also makes you hungry.
Upon our return, we met a couple from England who are not walking the Camino but here on holiday. They had several questions about the Camino and we were happy to share our experience thus far. We also shared some laughs before realizing it was 10:00, bedtime. It stays light in Spain till very late so it is very deceiving.
Our room is owl themed. We have a tree branch by the shower. And an actual bathtub. Did I mention how in love I am with this place?
Tomorrow we have a climb into the village of Foncebadón and I'm hoping our feet will cooperate. I'm currently up with the owls hoping I will drift off again soon.
And my self worth? It's getting there. I'm starting to realize that I am worthy of being here. Even if I am slow. Or having foot issues. Or exhausted. We've made it to day 30 and we're still going.
We are worthy. And so are you.
Cuando el búho canta, la noche es silenciosa.