DAY 82 83 Suzuki GS 1100E Custom bike build/ cam timing and adjusting valves

[@grahamboyne1458]

That was a good video, very clearly put across.

[@bikbildr.5186]

Just built a 82 gs1100es complete motor. But full drag race. I Did mtc 5pin slider clutch , mtc 13:5 to 1 forged pistons , complete head I did all a.p.e. components cam sprockets, cam chain, stainless valves , 400lb. Springs retainers, I cut the valve seats to 1.5mm over on intake and 1.0mm on exhaust ,guides were removed and bronze put in. Full underutilized transmission ,all 3 shift forks are forged , did a big port and polish on head , matched ports with molding putty w/match port cuts from carbs to head and exhaust head alot of hours in that port an polish. I did full lowboy Koenig front end, I built a club foot swing arm 8.5inch longer . Full dyna tek ignition system w/drl 400 2step box , went with a rc battery powered set up to pull 14.2 volts to coils (full loss). Rc comp.3blade drag wheels 7inch rear wheel . Drive is 630 X 142links with 5/8 inch offset front sprock and an outboard carrier bearing cover from D and G. Electric to air pinged shift assy. Stock crank but freshly disassembled and full rebuild w/ world bearing components etc.. rebranded and welded up. All work but the sleeves and cut to piston size I did myself . Had alot of fun and a couple of hair pulling moments. Great motors and still used today in motorcycle dragracing. Long live the gs 1100 motors..

[@trevormangum4775]

This is so helpful Im doing the exact same thing with my 81 gs750e.

[@krmoto5158]

Mine is for sale

[@bikbildr.5186]

Put a lash tool under both adjuster pins balance the resistance and lock set nuts. More reliable than doing 1 at a time. You get 1 set then try to bring other to it. Instead, bring both to resistance then set. By using 2 feeler tongues your balance is achieve way easier and more accurate. Same motor gs 1100esx and running full drag motor build. 13.5 to 1 mtc forged pistons w/.60 over bore oversized valves,huge web cams I have to degree no matter what,but that has nothing to do with setting lash. Big cams are degreed with zero lash then after your degreed in you go back and set lash off the heel of cam lobe. The dead zone basically. Try it once you won't do one at a time ever again. Ride Safe

[@THELXFOX]

what jet size did you go with, or what jet kit did you use? i have the same engine

[@krmoto5158]

It already had a dynojet kit install In the carburetors I can't remember What size they were you can find on eBay you can get stage 1 to stage 3 but I do recommend Dynojet they are a good quality

[@THELXFOX]

@@krmoto5158 awesome, that's all I need to know. I'll order the kit. Thanks bud. Sick build btw. I've watched all the videos of it.

[@krmoto5158]

@@THELXFOX Thanks man I appreciate👍 I should be uploading more videos soon

[@chriskryder2994]

Ok technically you discussed cam placement NOT cam timing. Tscc motors should not tick the older kz bssed shim over 4 valve bikes don't care so much. You also didn't mention the fact you run the intakes and exhaust at 2 different settings. Also without the correct adjuster tool it's extremely hard to do with just a 7mm and flatblade screw driver. Running a fresh head I always start at the right setting as they WILL loosen up soon as there done seating. A $59. Set of adjustable cam gears set at 110/110 will increase mid and high power and torque. For guys replacing the Week factory chain tensioner. You must have a cut down valve cover installed prior to adjustment. On the carbs 135 mains a shim under the needle valve and 3 turns out on fuel screws to start. Enlarge the relief hole in each slide ( let's slides return to closed faster) and absolutely make sure the fuel screw orings down in the carb are fresh or you'll suck air and can never get it fat enough. Never run a full open pipe w CV carbs the slides require a minimum backpressure that said I only run a endcap w no baffle. On dyna-s advance it as far as possible unless you have detonation due to fuel quality. Inexpensive power updates. Use 84-86 gs1150e or efe overseas 36 mm carbs vs the 1100's 34 mm. Also 1150 model D cams have more lift and duration than 1100 cams. Lastly I always do a relay power upgrade anytime you switch from tan coils to Dyna. The factory power wire to coils give a realistic 10.4-10.8 bolts this is on the boarder of the dynaS not firing under extreme cylinder pressure and temps. A relay to battery using the stock coil wires as a trigger is a absolute must for green coil users. I'm CK Ryder on Facebook

[@krmoto5158]

They were all adjusted at 4 thousands of an inch Also I did install a relay on the Ignition for the coils I'm gonna be installing some different carburetors on a later date always followed the GS Bible to get the bike running will be changing the carbs at a later date I have owned 4 of these bikes and currently have the two thanks for the info always could use the help from fellow GS owners thank you and ride safe

[@bikbildr.5186]

I'm a drag bike racer and run full loss ignition. My battery set up is 14.2 volts w/7200mah from RC Helicopters. I run the 3ohm lime green coils with 13:5 to 1 pistons big bore set up. Never had any issues with that.

[@bikbildr.5186]

Oh my carbs are mikuni 38mm RS flat slides