DC-INSTALLATIONS MADE EASY. Unique, Problem-Solving Solution. Egon DC-Hub

This remarkable, cost and time-saving device is called the EGON DC-Hub. Imagine a simple, extremely robust DC input/output fuse box combination board that reduces workshop time by a large factor, but also does away with the need for specialist expertise when building DC electric setups. All components are wired to this single central hub, including AC chargers, solar and DC-chargers. And from the same unit are wires run to all accessories, such as fridges, lights, compressors and more. And, do this without the need of crimps, lugs, shrinks or expertise. All the time consuming works is done for you!
BUY/ORDER: perthpro.com.au
MORE INFO and QUESTIONS: www.egon.com.au
4xOverland is the world's only public-funded global 4WD adventure off-road motoring channel. Established in 1996, it is hosted by well known 4x4 writer, explorer and filmmaker, Andrew St Pierre White.
**Thanks For Watching This Video**

[@4xoverland]

I shall not respond to questions posted on KZbin. Please go to www.egon.com.au for answers.

[@sgee8353]

The comments section is exactly for answering questions and discussing a video content.

[@joels2517]

@@sgee8353 No it's not the question section its the comment section made for peoples comments ie opinions

[@4xoverland]

If you have serious questions then www.egon.com.au/ has a message system. Then we can focus on the genuine questions, because the Keyboard warriors won't take the trouble to do that.

[@CommanderZarkon]

@@4xoverland Good point. Even if there are genuine doubts, there are too many who are ready to complain and knock things down. This product is beyond my reach at the moment, but that doesn't mean it is useless or "hype"; it just means I can't afford it right now. Sometimes people don't realize the relationship between time and money. When looking at the price, perhaps we should also consider the cost of A. Paying someone to do the job. B. Doing it ourselves and having a fire burn down our rig. Anyway Mr. White, I think it's great that you are developing better devices for us all!

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@4xoverland Please see my comment about people stealing your idea and copying it. Patent it ASAP.

[@bossybill7437]

When Andrew first touted this product, it seemed to me to be nothing but a Glorified Fuse Box... And it still does. I've got a real fuse box next to my aux battery and I'd LIKE an Egon DC Hub but, mate, $700 !!! Really? What is its Basic Function? REALLY... What's it do? Apart from 'cosmetics' like, nice LED lights when a fuse blows, right size connectors, cable tie tie-downs, ... What's it do? Is there any on-board logic? Not as far as I've heard. Are there any meters, like, to see how much you've used or drawing at a glance? Nope, nothing to be seen. It seems to me it's biggest selling point is that it saves Auto Electricians hours upon hours of work. But, hey, maybe they should try using a Fuse Box (they actually double as a Distribution Point). Am I missing something? BTW: I can see why the SS holder is 'only' $150... It hasn't even a hinged lid.

[@cyclemoto8744]

I too was shocked at the cost when it was first released but then I realised that I am not within the target market. Assuming you too understand DC systems and are able to build your own system, the cost of this device is not worth it. However, many people either lack the knowledge or a not comfortable working on DC systems. As an example, I know guys who are very mechanical and have no issues with all sorts of DIY work, but electrical systems just aren't their thing. Then on the other hand, think about all the people who tinker on their touring rig but aren't mechanical at all and can only perform basic DIY work, and finally the rest of the people with less skills. This device provides those people with a means of installing their own system. I've built various DC systems for the 4wds I've owned, and the cost of cabling and lugs alone, adds up very quickly. Of course, this device won't remove the cost of cabling but it will help reduce mistakes thus decreasing the cost of the ancillary parts. It always amazes me how much I spend on lugs by the end of a build....Do you perform your own oil changes on your car? If so, does that mean that the idea of someone paying a mechanic to perform the service is preposterous? Of course not, the service fits the needs for a particular person just as this product will fit the needs of some. Have you heard of the Redarc Redvision system? If you want to talk about an absurdly expensive product which is basically a touchscreen operated power switch , lets talk about the Redvision. Now that is ludicrous! Cheers

[@nabob14]

The other issue is that your running a lot more wire to one central point where it can be separated into zones with individual zone fuse boxes, this makes it even simpler... if you have a wiring issue, with the central box you will have a lot more wire length to check... a zoned system is far more user efficient than a central zone... this is why vehicles have multiple fuse boxes...

[@cyclemoto8744]

@@nabob14 so true. pros and cons with everything.

[@billroach2393]

@@nabob14 exactly!! I have 4 separate electrical "hubs" on my Chevy... I didn't even know to call them "hubs"...but after seeing this gadget I now know what it is I've been building. ASPW doesn't actually "build" anything...he just pays other people to "build" his stuff for him.

[@aussiecampingbloke55]

Do you wire your BCDC into your fusebox then do you?

[@jowly1462]

I get it, I get the point! It's Overlanding's Peter Brock Polarizer

[@MrLoridin]

That is gold lmao! Best comment...

[@sgee8353]

"Aussie Dream Fusebox" gives a it a bit of lineage and perspective I think.

[@bez2992]

I enjoy your work Andrew, however I think this product is a bit over hyped and you are making it sound far to simple to install. I fail to see how this simplifies things as much as you say. This product does not take the expertise out of installing a dc electrical system at all. it does not let someone who has "not done any wiring at all" suddenly be able to perform the job, it sort of takes care of one aspect which is crimping/heat shrink (the tip of the iceberg as far as wiring goes) and unless you are releasing more products, crimping and heat shrink will still be required for the main fuses that supply the unit and also for switches on the outputs and other things such as Anderson plugs (mentioned in the video for solar) someone who purchases this does not suddenly know how to run/secure wires correctly, wire switches correctly, crimp/solder a Anderson plug, mount various parts of the system correctly (the list goes on) This really is just a fancy fuse box/junction point. unless I'm missing something here? which is what you keep telling people but won't tell them why. I hope you will enlighten me as to what point I am missing here? I believe this will definitely save time, and possibly money in a workshop environment (would have to be a rather large fit-out) however I think the money side is questionable, especially at $840! As for someone doing this themselves I think it's only going to cost them money. Overall I think this would be a great product at a much lower price, however it think the description of this product is misleading people to think that having this product will save money and makes 12v wiring easy. It simply doesn't.

[@billroach2393]

Bez, I agree and when I've commented on it in a similar way to what you have, ASPW has retorted that I must never have done any 12 volt wiring set-ups. Well, let's see, I'll be 66 in a month's time and I've been fiddling with 12 volts since I was about 12 years old.....firstly in model train environment and then on motor bikes, cars and finally when I bought my first 4x4 in 1990. I've got a fair idea of what foibles await the uninitiated.....because I've made several stuff-ups along the way..... Those stuff-ups have taught me many things and one of them is to recognise this "hub" for exactly what it is: a glorified fuse box with multiple power IN and OUT sources. That's great! But you still have to wire-up relays and switches, so more wiring that might be going to completely different places to where the "hub" is located. For example, I have a lot of my wiring in the back of the large canopy of my Chevy Silverado. Logically therefore, it would be the ideal place to place my "hub". Some of the things that I would need to power-up through that "hub" are UHF, my Kleinn Demon 730 air horns, Fyrlyt Nemesis spotties, roof LED bar, rear LED bar, side LED bars, front corner LED lights, isolator for the alarm on the canopy gull-wing doors (so I can stop the alarm in the cab when somebody is getting stuff out of the canopy when I'm stopped say dropping off somebody at the airport), my back-up Kennedy fuel lift pump, air compressor, dashcam, TPMS, Airbag Man digital gauge, 2nd reverse camera...etc etc. A lot of those accessories are nowhere near the rear of the truck, so it makes no sense to have to run cabling to and from the hub for, say, the UHF radio. I think the type of DIYer who is likely to not even blink an eye at the price of this is someone like ASPW himself who has either plenty of dough or has sponsors that supply a lot of his gear. Just on that last point, I see he is asking over $200K for the dual cab dream tourer. I am left wondering how much that vehicle actually cost him to "build" (sorry, I should say..."to have built"...unlike you and me, he doesn't really "BUILD" 4 wheel drives....he gets other people to do all/most of the work...and anybody with deep pockets or good sponsors can do that). For example, he made no secret of the fact that Amptron gave him his lithium batteries and Hella gave him an open cheque book for whatever he wanted out of their catalogue. I wonder how they feel about him profiteering off their sponsorship dollar?

[@gaj5701]

It's basically the result of R&D done by 2 people with tunnel vision pretending they're design engineers, who can't see it actually doesn't achieve anything. Moreover it looks like a 10 year olds electronics project in a shoddy box. I'll qualify all that by saying I'm an automotive design engineer, so hopefully I can say all that without any danger of being proven incorrect or being accused of missing the point 🤓

[@heinzweber7642]

@@gaj5701 german Dipl.phys.Ing., 28 years at Bosch Automotive, 57 years old, early retiered, since 2 years around with 4X4 motorhome ... YOU ARE RIGHT Sir!

[@Anderzander]

You’re right. I think he’s really got this wrong. He sort of says that it simplifies wiring, through not having to use crimps and being told what size wires to use, to the point that anyone can do it ... but whoever installs it will still have to crimp and wire in the switches and the equipment that will connect to it ?

[@gaj5701]

@@heinzweber7642 Always welcome to have another qualified voice on board 👨‍🎓Not that it matters in today's world where facts are basically whatever the person with the loudest voice tells you 🙄

[@Dan-ny1kx]

Looks good, but not ground breaking or unique. Redarc Redvision has been available for some time, does the same job and adds Bluetooth management and CanBus.

[@AndrewSparkfish]

...and has issues apparently.

[@JamesJeanneret]

@@AndrewSparkfishand costs 4 times the price and 4 times as long to install.

[@andersonjack95]

Andrew I'm a huge fan of the channel, long time viewer first time commentor. I agree with the mind set of running all your cable to a central location but when it comes to terminating these wires I can't justifiy spending $800 to save an hour of crimping soldering and heat shrinking. I have a $30 fuse board from Jaycar with LEDs to tell me when a fuse blows, after watching your video I struggle to see the differance between my fuse box and your product? I would be interested in seeing a more indepth video that can better explain where the value has been added.

[@SirLuisBarrera]

Have to agree mate, clever idea but not worth $800. I understand the need for the return (R&D) but I also struggle to see the value for such a high price tag.

[@tjmarx]

I would suggest they aren't targetting at home DIY installers with this distribution board. He'll certainly sell one to you. But as much as Andrew is going on about being "foolproof" I would suggest they're actually targetting the trade market, particularly RV/trailer builders. The kinds of people who are doing moderately complex DC wirings over and over all day. The big selling point to them is productivity and end-user expandability. Buy* this distribution board, save 3-7 hours on wiring and be able to move on to the next unit/customer. That takes it from 1-5 installs per day to 5-15 on builds that are already going to cost 40,50,60K to the end-user. I think that's what this is about.

[@ShalevJonathan]

I'm an electrical engineer working in the automotive industry for the last 8 years, and have designed similar (more complex) boards in the past. I'm sorry, but screw terminals are not the way to go- they are supposed to be used only with solid wires and in a non vibrating environment. If you market the board without the enclosure there is no mitigation for this problem. There are snap in terminals that are much better suited for the task. Is there any reverse polarity protection? All the test you show are held in room temperature, this is not the way to test an automotive product. You need to test it in thermal chamber simulating the high ambient temperatures inside a parked vehicle.

[@AggyGoesOutdoors]

I know ASP is very excited about this but there's one of these sitting on the dashboard of my rally car in front of the passenger seat.. only it covers the relays too, bespoke build yes.. good luck marketing you "new" product.

[@Secretcircuits]

Considering that those Phoenix style connectors should really be used with crimped ferrules for maximum durability, I fail to see how this “eliminates crimping”.

[@mountainconstructions]

I to was wondering if "bootlacing" DC cables would be a better connection, or worse? Shame they don't give a Torque spec termination

[@4xoverland]

Recommended torque settings are supplied with the unit and are on the website.

[@SwampySi]

Isn't this just an S-Pod but without the switches?

[@RustyCandyAdventures]

I do not like to knock. But. Vibration. Led,s not glued and connectors The connectors are pin into circuit board. Fail point. Also screws are know to vibration lose. No middle board mount hole. Flexing board. In turn putting pressure on connector pins. No coating. Dust , moisture . Dust and moisture shorts out circuits. I have seen mold growing in connector with corrosion. Great idea. Little improving. Younger life I made printed circuit boards, also thur hole plating. Then testing. Nothing is never possible. I have seen many contractors start crying after a few minutes of testing.

[@mattmendel930]

What am I missing here? It’s literally just a fuse block... Not that unique at all...

[@4xoverland]

Yes, its a fuse box. But there is no fuse box IN THE WORLD that does what this does. How many fuses in a typical trailer or 4wd build? 10? 20? And where are they? All over the place, in line, fuseboxes and how many buss bars? 1? 2? 3? How do you fault find in all that maze of cables? Is it easy? How about one unit where ALL the fuses (with the exception of battery terminal fuses) come together in one place. All of them. No ground bus bar needed. Half the build time, double the simplicity in wiring it and fault finding. If that doesn't seem like an advantage to you, then this product is not for you. Changing the way people do anything in a new, better way always takes time.

[@mattmendel930]

@@4xoverland thanks for the reply Andrew. I totally see where you are coming from, this product would be a great advantage to someone who has an overly complicated wiring build but little knowledge of 12v system. My Troopy has a very simple system and I found that the Narva fuse block was more than sufficient for what I needed. Keep the content coming. Cheers.

[@Inspirez01]

$700 for a fuse block with some lights on it? could pay someone to supply and install a basic 12v system for that.

[@4xoverland]

For that money its such a basic system, this isn't needed.

[@The_ElunduExpeditionProject]

Great product for simplifying electrical installations in vehicles of any kind. As an electrician myself I would use bootlace ferrules on the ends of all wires going into the terminals of the EGON. It just rounds off the installation nicely and professionally.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Let me join the list of people who doesn't get it. All I see is a fancy fuse box / JB sold at a very fancy price. There are many similar products available, maybe not identical but doing basically the same job. The best products come from the industrial and marine sectors in my experience. I love marine products because they are very robust with excellent environment protection (the IP rating) and very corrosion resistant. I'd also support the comments made by others that bringing all the cable to a central location will increase cable lengths, and a zoned system with multiple distribution points offers advantages in this regard.

[@4xoverland]

This does nothing new, except for save time and money and ease fault finding. And it does this by having multiple fuse types in one place and is wired to cater for multiple chargers and multiple inputs and outputs IN ONE PLACE. And, the quality of the connections reduces voltage drops. The alternative is the traditional way, in having fuse boxes and in-line fuses strewn around the build and the inherent voltage drops and difficulties in fault tracing.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

@@4xoverland My vehicle's electrcal system is probably fairly typical. Split into 3 areas, namely engine bay, battery box and rear of vehicle. The first comprises relays and fuse boxes (×2 for main and auxiliary systems). The second has a four way fuse box with strip type midi fuses and a low voltage cut out. The third is a distribution centre with inverter, 6x fused circuits and DIN + cigarette lighter outlets. There's also a single relay which is probably redundant now that I have low current LED worklights. Of these the Egon might help with the rear of vehicle wiring centre which could definitely be improved because it has evolved over the years. I will have an honest look to see if it could help and maybe even make a video if the findings are interesting. However the competition is tough because there's a fantastic marine supplier on my doorstep selling top quality equipment. Anyhow this video has inspired me to revisit my own vehicle which is good.

[@nothingtoseaheardammit]

This would have really been great - if it integrated a relay system so that switch panels could be easily integrated. An SPODs setup without their ugly switches. Plus all of the other stuff with the aux battery stuff you're doing....

[@4xoverland]

Then it would just be another Redarc Redvision. This isn't the same and its not trying to be.

[@Anderzander]

At first I thought it was everything in one place - so a vsr or dc/dc system built in and perhaps with some monitoring or maybe even Bluetooth control and an app perhaps ... but instead it seem to be a distribution board with screw terminals, some regulation, and LED indicator lights? a bit like this for £15: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Way-LED-Blade-Fuse-Box-with-Negative-Bus-Bar-and-Cover-Car-Boat-Marine-/253750072145?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[@leonwielstra]

100%. It looks like they tried to over engineer something that is simple and most importantly cheap. Anyone who has the capacity to use this system won't have any issues using crimpers & solder with standard fuses & fuse blocks

[@AlphGen]

I give Kick Ass, Drifta and the like about a month to have a like product, best cloners out there unfortunately

[@sgee8353]

Won't ask a question, because after watching a 24 min video, surely everything is abundantly clear about this "game changer", (not a fuse box). In the video there is a shot of yourself exerting a whole lot of effort crimping/swaging on an electrical eye fixture to a cable. This was to show that the new product eliminates this type of work. But how do the little screws in the connectors on your board clamp cables with any equivliant force/ pressure? I guess this is why some commenters have mentioned midi fuses? Glad you have done a years testing, including market testing of potential consumers - like all the targeted people here who watched and commented on your video. I know, I know, we don't get it.

[@k2svpete]

Given that you've gone off on a tangent with the functions of a crimped terminal, as opposed to a screw connector, also missing the bit about cable ties being used to secure the cables against movement, it's pretty clear you've missed the point.

[@wikkidme755]

@@k2svpete what point? and i think most of us missed it...

[@k2svpete]

@@wikkidme755 you've missed the bit at the very start regarding the targeted applications. Its for medium to complex DC installations to simplify wiring and power distribution without hacking into the vehicle harness. It saves time for wiring to be run and cost for ancillaries in these applications. In these applications, it pays for itself. If you've got a simple system with a charger, fridge, compressor and some camp lights this isn't the product for that setup.

[@sgee8353]

@@k2svpete Mmm the stainless box that you would fix cables against I believe is an optional extra. Seems odd to me that many many comments have been constructive and offering suggestions and feedback, from the very people who may purchase such a product. in this form or some future version. And largely Andy has told all and sundry "you don't get it, it's not for you, it could not be better" and disengaged from the video and viewers. Andy is certainly entitled to behave this way, just a comment.

[@explor360]

Andrew, I was extremely impressed with the work Heiner did on your Dream Tourer and glad he’s working with you on this product. I went to the website and have a few comments. 1. You don’t list or comment on how many (and what kind of ) input and output can be used in this hub. It looks like it could handle all the wiring that you installed in your Dream Tourer which leads me to... 2. Maybe also make a “mini version” of this. The size of this unit is probably too large for my build (I’m working on my Gladiator build now) . I think most people, like me, would need connections for the following...second battery, DCDC controller, solar, water pump, fridge, lights and maybe one or two extra items. It seems you have way more capabilities than that with this product. 3. I know you said that the product is currently only available in Australia but when you roll this out please have a currency converter on your website. The Aussie dollars are much higher than US dollars. Best of lick to you and your team!

[@offthemeynroad4054]

What am I missing? Cool unit but the price is insane.

[@grzegorzszostak9983]

840$!!!!!!!!!!! Are you serious!!!!!!

[@BubblesTheCat1]

That's like $800 profit per unit!

[@ReimerKeith]

Well, those are Australian dollars. So $647. Plus international shipping and customs.

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@ReimerKeith Stuff what currency its in, it's still very much expensive. In any currency.

[@andrewlund3886]

Not a fan of blade fuses anymore. They cause some issues. Would be nice if it had midis

[@vforex3613]

Way way too expensive, halve the price you will do so much better.

[@PhatToni]

I'm not a fan of wires terminated without crimped lugs for situations where vibrations are common (see military applications for the best practise - always lugs). Also from what I can gather the high current output is fed by the AUX battery side. I always run my compressors from my main battery. I think a symmetrical main/aux setup would give more flexibility. Huge fan of your content and I enjoy how you narrate your own thought process when looking at something from a different point of view. Keep up to excellent content

[@richardweerasinghe3296]

This helps with one side of the wiring. But it doesn’t help with the switching side. So I don’t think it really helps much in terms of making it more accessible to users who don’t understand wiring.

[@Anderzander]

Nor does it help with the accessory side ...

[@k2svpete]

No, it doesn't help with the switching but it serves its purpose for providing simple, safe power distribution for accessories without hacking into the vehicle harness. That's the stated purpose and there are far too many nuffies who've lost sight of the purpose of it.

[@Anderzander]

@@k2svpete Hi Peter - How does it offer anything different to hacking the original wiring over any of the other distribution units? Any of the many products (sPOD, VoSwitch, Blue Sea and the many basic Fuse Boxes etc) can all be run as entirely separate circuit direct from the battery.

[@k2svpete]

@@Anderzander through the simplicity of the unit. Making connections, fault finding and correcting is easy. Remember what it's being designed to do and in what applications.

[@Anderzander]

@@k2svpete So there are lots of products that do that ... If it’s about simplicity of connection, putting aside the robustness of screw terminals in high vibration environments, then the same person would need to terminate the switch and accessory side - so I’m not sure it brings that much benefit. If it’s about simple ‘analog’ construction and fault identification - there are many many products that are in / out distribution fuse boxes with LED warning lights - I have been using one for years that costs £20 If it’s about robust then the PCB should really have been supported in the centre too to stop cracking - and to prevent issues with moisture or corrosion it would have been good to coat it. If it’s about not hacking the OEM wiring then that’s a design decision you could apply using many of the products that are already on market.

[@kevinpt3]

So you made a fuse box. Would be nice to have some relays

[@Malc664]

That would make it bulky, but you're right, it doesn't cater to the all-important relays. That seems to be an afterthought. This EGON is supposed to make the electrical system easier and relays weren't addressed.

[@gotoylc]

@@Malc664 why would relays need needed? The circuits are well protected by the fuses in this central DC hub. I don’t see any need for additional relays for this hub.

[@Jacob-qz2mo]

@@gotoylc you would need relays for most appliances, unless you have switches that can handle massive current loads.

[@cattymakes]

@@Malc664 it already is bulky given it's a glorified fuse box

[@auladepiano]

100A on a regular fuse holder??? I definitely would prefer a mini ANL fuses for that current. Also, the connectors are not reliable at all for a typical vibration 4x4 truck. Bolt terminal are way better. All cables to the same point? Not always the best solution for every needs. And by the way.... If some contact gets hot.... You may loose all your electrical circuits.... Sorry. I wouldn't buy it. A have a lot of circuitry. 24v and 12v and I definitely prefer good quality 24 and 12 and ground distribution blocks with mini ANL fuses.

[@abazdarhon]

You said “...this product is unique there is no other product on face....” well whatever electrical shop I look at, selling DC 12v car/van/ etc equipment I SEE PLENTY FUSE BOXES where cost various from £10 up to £50 top. So you ask for fuse box 700AUD are you for real? Now you will create water junction box? Again first in the planet Earth. Lol... looks like your channel move slowly but gradually towards those few only... those fools who spend thousands because Mr Andrew said. I am not disqualified this product but it is nothing new and the price is just a joke like redarc products. Yep quality cost but realistically bit of good compound plastic and good cooper not cost that high to put in in the shelf of dust..... I got that development cost but - thank to you the price stay high because the way you present it and other products. It’s is exactly the same why BMW r1200GS cost 2x the similar product in the market only because some get paid to promote this product vastly in modern world like KZbin telling all around how good it is .... and then welcome to coffee machine in the service department where soon you find not much variety of coffe and biscuits they offer... Please move back where you was as it was pleasure to watch.

[@nasseral-momen1463]

There is a product called hotbox that is sold in oman that does what ypur talking about. Great product you guys have produced. For me it's between this and redvision. Since you have used redvision in your tourer can you please tell me the difference between the two products besides the simplicity fact. Thanks 😊

[@4xoverland]

Redvision and the DC Hub do similar things but the DC hub is not digital, has no switching and no monitoring, no screens and nothing digital. But wiring is as simple as it can get. It a fraction of the price and anyone with basic wiring knowhow will be able to install it. You won't need both.

[@nasseral-momen1463]

@@4xoverland thanks for the reply. I realised that you didn't want questions after I already posted. Much appreciated. Great product

[@v8greg79]

The water hub makes sense, but im sorry Andrew, i really dont see the point of a $700 fuse box.

[@4xoverland]

I do. And that's because it saves even more $ in installation costs.

[@simonchambers2852]

needs thumb screws holding perspex cover on not allen keys thought you where making it simple

[@4xoverland]

I do like that idea.

[@4xoverland]

Heiner tells me he looked into it. They would add $30 onto the price and the ones he tested had the potential of cracking the perspex cover. So he settled with bevelled allen key nuts.

[@simonchambers2852]

​@@4xoverland fair enough . shouldn't need to faf about finding a allenkey just to change a fuse IMO

[@OverlandPioneers]

Doesn’t the RedArc RedVision do the job?

[@TWX1138]

It looks like RedVision might suffer from having unnecessary complexity. That said it does look like it integrates not only the power distribution but also the controls. I personally want something sort of halfway in between this and RedVision. I want something that has the robust power distribution and fault indication, but also includes relays for proper switching of circuits that a user might wish to be switched from a low-current panel. Think of typical automotive wiring and logic from say, fifteen to twenty years ago. One version is a switch that instructs a relay to change state. The other is an input to a BCM, the input is taken as a momentary, the input tells the BCM to turn on or turn off something, allowing multiple inputs for control, like multiple door sensors activating the dome light.

[@escapecamper]

yes, yes it does. plus has switching.

[@ianwatson3315]

Nothing like being over dramatic about your own product.

[@TechStories79]

The redarc is light years ahead of this

[@1000adstar]

Congratulations, cool looking fuse box. I like the clear cover. I think if for off road use, you might need to support and seal the PCB better and it really needs Midi style fuses for any of the high current circuits. DC is very unforgiving with vibration and voltage drop so you don't want any arcing or shorts especially with high fault currents of lithium batteries. Hope you have great success with your product. Cheers

[@filup7419]

Andrew, I’ve been sub’d and following you for over 10 years and you seem to have gotten too commercialized. At 1:45 you said that you haven’t designed a product and you’d be biased but you have. You designed your own wolf pack boxes while still in Africa several years ago. Regardless, I mainly began following you because I watched your trips. I’ve bought a couple of your books and even met you at an expo but it seems you have gone more and more distant from the reason why I started following...the expeditions. Because of that, I am unsubscribing. Good luck.

[@wesmccullough8176]

how do think he pays for his expeditions and videos? Food coupons???

[@trevormacaskill575]

@@wesmccullough8176 You sound like a child

[@wesmccullough8176]

@@trevormacaskill575 how do you think he pays for the videos Trevor?

[@HoneyBadgerFarm]

If you are selling $800 fuse panels, do you really need my Patreon monthly subscription?

[@4xoverland]

If you are supporting the work because you think I'm a poor man, then please don't. Your motivation is all wrong. That said, without Patreon, I would not make the videos. I would confine my work to the other things I do.

[@Berserkeroffroad]

Andrew, well done continuing your entrepreneurial adventure, and congratulations on your product launch.

[@MrLoridin]

Not sure I like this idea, seems to me there is a lot of potential for high current positive cables being bare at the connection terminals which is dangerous. Those cables should have shielding, if someone isn't capable of using a soldering iron, crimping and shielding their own cables they have no business trying to wire up an electrical system. The footprint of this thing would probably cause more grief than it's worth, certainly more space than I would like to give to it. Your comments regarding voltage drop are a tad misleading as the entire point of using a DCDC in the first place is to overcome voltage drop from using undersize cable runs. DCDC's swap high current, low voltage for low current high voltage after the voltage drop has occurred in the initial cable run. That is why a DCDC is always next to the battery it's servicing so there is intangible voltage drop from that point. The other safety aspect is your fuses should ALWAYS be as close to the power source as possible. This thing allows people to have fuses nowhere near the source upfront which again is dangerous and a bad idea. $840 for glorified fuse holder? okay maybe that is harsh, but it smacks of a premium solution looking for a problem rather than solving one.

[@JustPete65]

I'm dumber than dumber with DC and big $$$ but you could still put a fuse near the power or does that defeat the object?

[@dinosshed]

I tend to think it's an excellent idea that is already in use for A/C voltage systems. It's a compact version of a fuse/circuit breaker board on a house or factory. All the juice goes to the one central location where it's easily terminated and fused. Looks like a very reliable, user friendly board that will no doubt be copied a million times over in years to come.

[@k2svpete]

Ahhh, the fuses are right next to power source for all those accessory outlets. There's one high current input from the main battery, obviously a fuse gets placed up there. Paying attention is important, mmkay?

[@MrLoridin]

@@k2svpete "obviously a fuse gets placed up there" are no not obviously, as the whole point of this product is so "ALL the fuses are in one central spot" and that you don't "need to know how to crimp or solder or use heat shrink". Paying attention to what ASPW said about his product is important, mmkay?

[@k2svpete]

@@MrLoridin yes, you should pay attention champ.

[@emu4wd]

I like your work Andrew but this must be a joke. It's just a fancy fuse box of which there are many on the market that do an excellent job and in a smaller package and a more affordable cost, with little drop in voltage or diagnostic abilities. Steve

[@JustPete65]

Got a link to one? Would help with my canopy

[@4xoverland]

If that's your take, then you are missing the point.

[@RUM-PIG]

Phenomenal!! I’ve literally spent the last 2 years self learning about how to set up my 12V system in my 4x4 by myself. I’m dyslexic and it’s been such a steep learning curve for me. This product has taken such a load off my mind. Thank you very much 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

[@g0fvt]

Not trolling, but not a question as such either, Kapton tape on the metal panel behind the PCB would make sure that no-one can cause a short by flexing the PCB, I know what people are like for breaking things. A captive tool with a screw driver blade and an allen key attached to the unit would not be so daft, reminiscent of the pen on a string you might find in a bank. Normal people might carry a screwdriver but are unlikely to have not lost the right size allen key even if they had one in the first place. A small section of the board also could usefully be used to hold a small stock of blade fuses, or a very simple supplemental board to carry spare fuses. As someone who has made a living as a field service engineer (radio) I somewhat understand the concept that whatever the fault is there must be tools and simple spares in my vehicle to get the job done.

[@OkanaganOverland]

I wish you guys all the best with these products! I really do think they are a great idea. I especially liked the attention to details to give a place for the cable ties to secure the wire to prevent fatigue. My critiques would be that it just doesn't look finished, I think because it lacks the same rugged appearance as other products for the Overland/offroad market. Looks more like something found in a commercial building. Also the optional stainless holder and cover looks like it could be made lower profile (or at least currently only limited by the aux battery input?). Good luck again and I am really excited to see this out in the market! (Let me know if you need anything tested in Canada). Cheers

[@PhilUys]

Two problems for me: far too expensive at $800 for what you get and the physical size is rather large as space is always an issue.

[@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548]

At $800 we can expect some Chinese clones pretty quickly.

[@motolab.EuropeanMotorcycles]

Nice product indeed, wanted one, visited the website, saw the price, and i was out... importing it in Europe, would bring the pricing even more up... for a full equiped camper, yes, for a more basic 4x4 with less connections, too expensive (for me)

[@aussiecampingbloke55]

Rather large? How can it be smaller?

[@PhilUys]

@@aussiecampingbloke55 It would be easy to make it smaller by at least a third. All the dead space between the connectors and fuse holders can be eliminated. The enclosure can be designed to save plenty of space.

[@k2svpete]

@@motolab.EuropeanMotorcycles he stated that it's aimed at medium to complex DC systems.

[@MachielIedema]

If it was April first...... This is absolutely ridiculous bs. Every switchboard or fusebox does the same. 🤣😂 As a boat electrician I'll only laughed.

[@JustPete65]

Have you got a link to a marine version?

[@4xoverland]

If you laughed sir, then I must assume you missed the point of it. Your are right. It does nothing new. But it saves a lot of time with an install, simplifies a build by putting all the fuses in one place, and aids fault finding. That's its job.

[@MrLoridin]

@@4xoverland You haven't addressed the fact that having ALL fuses in one place is a dangerous idea and goes against the fundamentals of safety. You need to fuse as close to the source as possible, that is a 101 basic principle. Those terminal blocks are also designed to be used with bootlace ferrules, which still need crimping.

[@heinzweber7642]

I am a german Dipl.phys.Ing., 28 years at Bosch Automotive, and still did n o t get the point. You re in good company.,🤣

[@gaj5701]

Little voltage drop across the board, yet probably plenty in the long run from your main battery to the unit, wherever you install it, then on to your DC/DC charger, back to the unit again, then on to your Aux battery & back to the unit again. Maybe I'm missing something as I'm an automotive design engineer so it's probably not aimed at me, but other than providing a heavy duty, relatively foolproof, labelled fuse box I'm not really seeing the advantage of this over a simple electrical install for the batteries/charging system close together to avoid voltage drop & a decent fusebox in an accessible point for all of the auxiliary electrics. Simplifying by complicating..

[@MrLoridin]

I agree totally with your assessment mate.

[@adam03957]

What I don’t get is how is this different to a pre terminated fusebox? Like I’ve just finished my set-up, battery to fusebox, laying out my fusebox with the same fuses the vehicle uses and cable to outlets, what was hard about that?

[@nosignal88]

Are you an engineer

[@gaj5701]

@@nosignal88 Yep, & I've built a couple of 4wd electrical systems using negative bus bar fuseboxes (with blown fuse indicator LEDs) & relay boxes for switching anything over 15A, all labelled properly for diagnostics in an accessible space taking up far less room & actually looking tidier & more manageable than this. I've never run main battery cables, aux battery cables & solar input to a junction box before a DC/DC charger though as it actually defies common electrical sense to lengthen the system & add any form of hub in between them. The kit looks great quality, but sadly isn't necessarily a leap forward in functionality unfortunately.

[@4xoverland]

"back to the unit again . . " What? No. It's so clear that you are completely missing the point.

[@meshallrazoog]

I live in the middle east and I was dreaming of something exactly like this, this idea is huge I need one when I start my overland project

[@matymaty7477]

👍 My electrician brother made me exactly the same system in my Land Rover Defender 300 Tdi. The whole car. IT WORKS AND LOOKS GREAT.

[@steveswiggers1578]

This is a product born out of someone who has lots of overland/car building experience in cooperation with a (German) electrical engineer. It comes from his own need to have a rather simple, bush proof solution instead of reinventing the wheel every single time/build again. For some weeks now I’m trying to figure out a 12v system myself and it’s not that easy to see the forest for the trees. This product simplifies and centralise a lot in my opinion. So thanks Andrew. But in a way I also understand some of the critiques and it would help Andrew to do a bit more than saying one is “missing the point” (even though you prefer to do only on the Egon site). I'm afraid “the point” is not clear enough. I truly love your style of telling a story. It's the perfect counterweight in this tik-tok era. But this time, for a product reveal, it's not enough. Of course some people will never see that it's more than a fancy fuse box but also a circuit board that makes smart connections between different parts as well. So can you please explain shortly: - why no relays - how to deal with switches for the devices one connects to your hub. Is the critique of creating longer cables due to this centralised system true? Maybe a simple wire diagram may help.

[@k2svpete]

From what he's said at the start of the video, the strength of the unit is the ability to access power for accessories without hacking into the vehicle harness, all the power outputs are fused and faults easily identified and fixed. You still need to work out use of relays and switching but common failure point of poor wiring to and from power and not having fuses is addressed.

[@FunCreativeConstructions]

awesome product!! I did a simple dc set up, dcdc charger, 1x aux battery, 1 x fuse box and 2x cabling with anderson plug for my fridge in the ute. It prob cost around $3-400 for bits and pieces (fuse box, lugs etc) def see a benefit of this product. Well done!!

[@judsssis]

In one word - NO. I asked several if the DC 80Amp is OK with inverters such as victron ones who incorporate a 35 amp charger when pluged to 230/110 - nor I got answers it will it work if unpugged into starter battery - sut just a big "bar". If you want to sell those out of AU please (...) How would you fix any alectronic on these - works aswell for diesel engienes post 80 series - ingectors pumps, intercoolers (...) vs petrol non colitional engine. Yes, you have the money to buy a 79 (..) Glad if I had an answer - technical .. Regards

[@mmdotcom_Photography]

brilliant -- I had that (very vague) idea about doing a 12V supply in boats (or, as a DC secondary system, even in a house) for some time, but never got around to trying it. now this piece of kit is a real game-changer for anyone doing cars, off-grid systems, or anything of the things above. You guys are great!

[@DarrylSheather]

As a central hub its an awesome idea. Well done!

[@Mark-ks9jj]

Making things IDIOT/moron proof is a sign of great engineering. Well done guys, your ideas & engineering is superb, bloody well done!

[@JimYeats]

I like that this a well built device - made very specifically for common aftermarket vehicle DC setups - and not just a generic fuse box, but the price is a little hard to swallow. The fact that the mount/case is not included is also frustrating. Will be interested in following how this goes and if it gets refined and if the price comes down as the process is streamlined. Honestly these products look like the vehicle equivalent of a breaker box and a pex manifold (the water version he mentioned) of a house, so maybe it is time someone did this.

[@simonlynch4204]

This should be flagged as an ad.

[@4xoverland]

Does the presenter saying clearly he is the inventor, and is going to be biased not qualify in your eyes?

[@neutronstorm]

Imagine.... Instead of doing this the old fashion way, they had instead made on open source product and published the details and all the schematics with it. Then allowed the world to innovate on the platform. They could have still sold the product but people would choose to pay a premium to support the project. This is how modern projects fund themselves and build a community to outsmart the knock off's which will come.

[@mmdotcom_Photography]

good suggestion, maybe not widely (enough) known though. You def also have a point when it comes to protection against Chinese-style copycat rubbish!

[@markcleveland8898]

What about the shovel??

[@mountainconstructions]

I think a good video... Would be to take a traditional wired DC installation Then install this product and physically show us how it improved things and saved time.

[@firetofork]

Using this in my build was insanely good. I am not great at wiring and this made me feel like a pro. The conductivity and solid connections are so far beyond anything else on the market. I couldn’t believe how little voltage drop there is. It also makes fault finding a dream. Well done guys

[@obxjeepguy]

And you had help from Heiner. A win-win!

[@firetofork]

@@christurner68 Compared to my old setups - measuring from the battery to my fridge and compressor. Bloody hell, who crapped in your cornflakes?

[@4xoverland]

Harry. Any electrical posts tend to bring out the know-it-all keyboard warriors by the thousand. They just love to tear one's ideas down. Keep your distance. I do.

[@firetofork]

@@4xoverland Very good call mate. This comments section is one of the most toxic I have seen in quite a while.

[@MrLoridin]

@@firetofork Harry it might help if ASWP doesn't make bold claims that simply are not true. It's not the only product like it in the world, and in many ways if used the way Andrew says it's downright dangerous. Go ask ANY qualified electrician or auto sparky if it's safe NOT to fuse at the power source and see what kind of answer you get... also ask them if it's okay to have a bare wire going into a terminal block. It also wouldn't save someone 7 hours in labour, that's nonsense.

[@sgee8353]

Hi Andy Can you run us, (the great unwashed), thru how a winch would be connected thru the Aussie Dream Fusebox (ADF) Say I have a 4wd vehicle and decide to install your fuse box in the canopy as it is close to the solar panels and there is space. How would I connect my winch? In the past I would keep the cable run short and connect to the vehicle battery. How is it best done with the ADF?

[@pmeyer37]

Love the idea but for 10k ZAR I don't think so... ridiculously overpriced

[@BubblesTheCat1]

R 10, 000? Gosh Andrew, thats daylight robbery!

[@rayzar6720]

I think the quality of this would be high end. Something that lacks from copy cats. This is a great idea but not new. Blueseas I think there called make a couple of different fuse block sizes that great and marine quality, fully tinned for basic installs. However I can see where this shines and isn't for everybody. Auto sparkies doing van installs etc etc. Even though its pricey I think its reasonable if you add the price of a quality redarc dc-dc charger $450? This board has a charger as well if I understand it right. For the size it should have some relays for Bluetooth capability but its not a deal breaker. For people with no electrical background the LED indication is perfect when a fuse blows. It appears built rock solid and should last the life of install no problem. Its not a gadget but a simple fuse block with regulated/unregulated solar input with blown fuse indications. Itll have a place but unfortunately not in my car unless there's a smaller option. Nice work though.

[@andysparks8245]

It doesn't have any charger, in fact it has no electronics.

[@edwardpeters4700]

Interesting piece of kit. Likely a bit too complex for my needs (I've never found need for an inverter). A charge controller with solar inputs, secondary battery, and fuse block have served me well.

[@cmram111]

Pleace dont use these junk Fuse from China. Use Fuses from MTA Italia or Littlefuse.

[@wolfstream1]

I love your passion and restless innovative spirit! Very well done Andrew, think of Europe too! I am looking forward for your water hub. Seems very promising! Bravo!

[@lag_profil]

I like this engineer. "How long do we run it for to simulate..." "Let's see how long it takes to break it." That's how you test stuff!

[@ookeekthelibrarian]

I'm the same, I was taught if you make something you need know what will break it b4 you send it to the mine site.

[@doradosurfcharters]

That looks like reject shop quality sorry but check out wago german electrical company no screws to strip get loose catch fire wago has all gas tight vibration resistance clamp type terminals use in mining industry and we use in survey boats and it costs less than the crap you buy at most automotive shops and can be added to in literally minutes cheers love your videos 👍👍👍

[@JustPete65]

Got a link to one?

[@maxgermasi3302]

I am dumb as dog shit but, what does it do more than a fuse holder? There are not fuse holders on the market? Worldwide?

[@4xoverland]

What does Rolls Royce mean? That it saves instal time, money and eases fault finding? Then you'd be right. If you cannot understand these advantages, then you don't do a lot of installations.

[@maxgermasi3302]

@@4xoverland Don't get cranky Andrew. I do like entrepreneurs like you but this item is nothing more than a fuse holder, isn't it? Actually, what else does it hold other than fuses? Also, how does it save install time compare to a fuse holder? How does it saves money? It save 7 hrs of installation time but it costs $700, how much does you auto technician charge per hour? BTW we still have to install the switches and the relays so we still need to run wires unless your unit can activate the relays wireless. It does however ease fault finding by showing if and which fuse is blown but other fuse holders do that to. A few months ago you claim that you invented the shovel now the fuse holder..... The video are extremely well tho. Cheers

[@4xoverland]

You are still missing the point of it. And by your comments that's not about to change. We sold every one we had made within an hour and have had trade enquiries from several countries. I guess they get it.

[@maxgermasi3302]

@@4xoverland nah mate, now you are playing Tom Sawyer from Mark Twain! The point, the point and the point, you have not explained the point to start with and you are avoiding questions like a politician (nice marketing strategy ). Take care

[@vic6820]

@@maxgermasi3302 I agree, I also am missing the point.

[@arconcritter]

I’m in the early stages of planning the building of my 110 into an overlanding vehicle. This product and the future water hub will absolutely be going into my rig. When you referred to the Egon in a video last year I was looking to forward to seeing the final product so I’m extremely happy to see you launching it now. Congratulations to you both and I wish you much commercial success 👍🏻🙂

[@gaj5701]

I'm building a 110 at the minute & so far I've used a 6 block negative bus bar fuse box in with the main fuse block for main electrics extras (spotties etc.) & a 12 block for the auxiliary electrics high on a hesch style cabinet in the back. If you manage to squeeze your aux battery in the seat box (can be done, my knuckles can testify to that) I'd recommend doing this kind of thing to keep it even simpler rather than trying to find somewhere to mount this in a non leaky part of the vehicle & running 2g wiring all over the place 👍

[@spudboy1328]

It's a great idea. And I want one. But I can't see $700 worth of value in it, sorry. Maybe volume production will bring the price down, but for me it's not worth the asking price right at the moment. But, still a great idea for those who have the cash.

[@ferytm]

Yeh, very good idea. I would love one however I can’t justify buying one at this price level.... such is life!

[@XynxNet]

That depends. Does it really save 7 hours of professional electrical installation time.... I am not sure. If it does though, the price might be ok.

[@mountainconstructions]

I thought it was going to have some Auto Load Shedding.... Monitor the Current Over Time of each output Allow for Bluetooth Monitoring and Switching of each load... The only problem with a single device to which all are connected, is if something fails on that device. And I'm not sure DC wiring needs a central location... It sure doesn't look under bonnet friendly.... or have much of an IP rating. Hopefully it goes well for you both It does tidy the average install up a bit

[@EarthCamper]

I built Campervan... This is so true electrical build quality is low in our build. Your solution is really helpful.... 👍👍👍👍👍please plan to sell to India. We will buy.

[@LVNITUPM8]

You can buy online and get it sent over

[@EarthCamper]

@@LVNITUPM8 👍thank you

[@PerthSnaps]

Possibly do an aluminium bracket for more budget friendly build same with doing a 5 output and 1 input super simple setup for smaller and cheaper builds (like in a boat)

[@4xoverland]

If that's what you need, then use a Blue Sea fuse box.

[@jasonhowe1697]

noting andrew if you were planning a fuckery failure point if you were looking at what i was running from a mains voltage space is as a minimum of 8.5-12 kva across input fused 2x 20 amp plugs. even if you shrunk it down and still consume the same output range.. you don't have the battery support for 1x 2 kw once you start supplying Vac from DC you are typically looking at 4 house pending total vac output you are catering for.. noting is you are catering to shore power within the build the input has to be fused.. note i see you haven't looked at a battery bank past 12/24VDC.. the problem with 12 volt is over amp current into low guage if heating the cable at 12 volt over capacity either upgrade to 24 or 48 to reduce amperage over load drawing more current at 12 volt will likely cause cable to heat up as you saw, 100 amps into at that density will likely net the same result everytime it is done you are looking at 24-96vdc across 4 or more house batts. especially if running dc>vac power convertors/inverters If using agms you should be fine .. using lithium you may need to consider load balancing .. whilst you might electrically isolated in charging doesn't mean you will be electrically isolated between crank and house because 1 will pull from the other if either in amp or volt with 1 being lesser than the other.. when I talk about 8.5 kw power at 240 mains i talking in 1500 watts per average between fridge, aircon, rangehood, microwave ac cable runs are typically mains electrical at 240 @ 10-15 amps though supply inlet can be split between 2 pending on the air con system being used so you live from a minimum 20 amp inlet if running shore or genset.. power.. note i would never use a 2kw inverter because they are under powered and you will likely top out at 1.5-1.7 kw continuous power..

[@shane0yourgod]

Very expensive fuse box. You mentioned it has the solar input but I don’t think it’s is worth that kind of cash. I do t kind a little crimping and soldering, especially to save enough cash for a new surfboard. On the other hand, the water system sounds great, I would be interested to learn more about it.

[@Rays4Days]

Nice colab w Heiner - he's a wizard. Can't wait to see the water hub.

[@shanevillis4079]

I think the marine industry would certainly be using something very similar for some time.

[@AggyGoesOutdoors]

Many many industries have, I think Andrew is relying on the ignorance of his potential market... You know what they say, a fool and his money...

[@JustPete65]

Can you find a link to one? I don't even know what to search for

[@heinzweber7642]

@@JustPete65 try "Victron" Netherlands

[@Freosfinest]

I see $50 worth of gear , soldered to a $150 MAX PCB and sold for $700

[@land0oo]

This

[@FunCreativeConstructions]

make one for $150 then

[@ecovention]

Do better then.

[@land0oo]

@@ecovention fused bus bar same thing.

[@wikkidme755]

@@FunCreativeConstructions why it is useless. I’ll make something that actually has a purpose...

[@jasonbinder7281]

Well done gentlemen! I applaud your innovation and execution. You two seem to be great partners and compliment each other well. I've been enjoying watching you work together. As a long time fan I enjoy all the details and background but if I may suggest, some may find a shorter more direct video easier to to determine if this is the right solution for them. That enclosure is also pretty slick. I suggest considering making access tool less. Perhaps a hinge and magnet will do the trick. Cheers - Jason

[@ewingfox6459]

What makes this different is that it's well designed and ALL ANALOG. I'm not suggesting that it is inherently better than similarly capable digital units, but the idea of a bush-repairable unit makes a ton of sense. I've done (hundreds?) of similarly complicated DC wiring jobs, and this would save me 5-10 hours of work, I charged 100usd an hour (a decade ago) - so it would have been a push for cost, plus be simpler for them to modify. Would I BUY ONE? No, I'll do it the hard way and save the money, but it won't produce a better result. Version 2.0 should include a few switchable relays and a fibre reinforced chassis would be better, non-conductive. Good work, this is a perfect product for anyone who wants it done right the first time!

[@TWX1138]

The lack of switchable circuits perplexes me. It seems like that would be the more important value-add for a potential buyer, since it would make controls for things like lights and intermittent-use appliances easier and safer. Even if a device like an oven had its own control, being able to shut it off and know that it's truly off from a low-current switch panel inside of the vehicle would seemingly be a valuable feature, let alone controls for driving lights, winches, air compressors, and other accessories where running the high-current cables into the driver's compartment is undesirable or where one might want to have more than one point to switch such an accessory from. Attempting to foolproof it with connectors that naturally limit the cable size is a good idea, and designing easy-read fault indicators is also a good idea, but either an improved product with the relays or else a companion product, a relay board that can be placed next to this board and take the outputs from this board and switch them would increase interest dramatically.

[@ewingfox6459]

@@TWX1138 it's also important to remember that this is the first product for this pair, I expect that they'll be offering iterations moving forward. A fiber reinforced poly chassis and a handful of relay supported circuits would be a natural version 2.0

[@TWX1138]

@@ewingfox6459 Yeah, the biggest downer though is the pricetag given the lack of these elements. I get the value of the bus-bar concept along with sizing the connectors and the fault indicators, but it's 700 Australian dollars for just the board. A fairly generic third party automotive fuse and relay holder that admittedly requires point-to-point wiring is around $20. I know, labor is higher when it's not done with artificially depressed wages, and they've done engineering and testing to confirm their load levels, but it still seems disappointingly expensive.

[@ewingfox6459]

@@TWX1138 doing the point-to-point wiring is time-consuming tedious and extremely fault-prone if you're not in the trades and doing this stuff everyday. Considering that many people will spend upwards of $100,000 on building up their tourer, if less than 1% of their build goes to having a absolutely bomb proof DC mains, it isn't really a tragedy. I'm a big point to point guy and do a lot of audio these days now that I'm out of the trades, I enjoy the slow and careful pace and the results are pretty amazing but back in the 90s and early 2000s we were printing piles of circuit boards for all kinds of projects that would have been impossible to package in a point to point format. I have no doubt that he'll sell a pile of these, not every product is for every consumer. I bet a unit with five relay circuits, a poly chassis and a hinged cover, priced at probably $1,100 will fly out the door, especially after most weekend warriors drop a couple hundred bucks on component parts to prove Andrew wrong and end up with a bunch of blown fuses and melted wires :-)

[@k2svpete]

@@ewingfox6459 or a smouldering wreck of a vehicle after it catches fire.

[@shdhrjdi]

Surely you would have known people would compare this to Redarc why didn’t you just address this issue on your video to save all the questions

[@4xoverland]

I wish I had.

[@4xoverland]

Maybe I should do a video on it.

[@shdhrjdi]

@@4xoverland wow can’t believe you replied

[@bobbeebobbee6998]

This is great idea but do one with 150 or 200 amp

[@StevenVanStaden-o4j]

Very very noice and very interesting!!

[@offtraxcampers2135]

Mmmm I like this a lot!! Well done!!

[@dankurtis5738]

Any plans to make a board with integrated relays to switch the circuits?

[@AggyGoesOutdoors]

Like the sort used in rally cars for years...

[@Darkart123]

I really wanted to pull trigger on this but the lack of relay switches means I will wait for version2 if it comes. We have followed you for years and even spoke with you at overland expo west. Good luck and stay safe!

[@4xoverland]

There are several products on the market with relays and switches. This is not one of them and was never meant to be. Which means, I didn't communicate the point of the DC hub very well. It's the challenge of trying to explain something new.

[@robthurlow1347]

That is a really neat idea Andrew but I would suggest a modification to the circuit boards design. You have screw down cable terminals on the board. I would change them too the type that a small flat blade screw driver is just pushed into to fit and release the cables they are far better, I'm a marine engineer and work on lots of ships systems that have these screw down cable terminals and while very high quality they come loose and cause a lot of problems in the high vibration environment of a ships engine room. I would be willing to bet that if driving with these screw terminals over constant corrigations and the general high vibration environment of a vehicle, they will come undone on a regular basis and cause niggling problems. Other wise neat idea.

[@terryoleary5424]

Very interesting, I installed a very simple yet powerful enough 12 volt system 6 months ago and it was extremely time consuming. I’m very keen to look into this system.

[@craiggillphotography8030]

Looks great. Wish I had that when I did my build. Good quality and simple. Most electrical stuff out there is crap and will let you down one day when u need it.

[@houseofancients]

a fusebox for 699 aus d.. off your rockers

[@thewhiteoxoverland]

Those of you who think this is really just a glorified fuse box are somewhat missing the point. However it will not eliminate voltage drop issues. For that you will need to understand conductor losses in typical automotive copper cable. And for that you'll need a simple formula. So for anyone interested, here it is: Voltage drop over a cable run can be calculated as: Conductor length in metres (including return path) × current draw in amperes × the arbitrary figure for copper conductors of 0.0164 ÷ cable x sectional area in mm2. (You will need to ascertain the cable conductors cross sectional area in mm2 in order for this formula to be effective. Not the cable diameter. There are various charts available for this) As an example 0 B+S is 50mm2 and 2B+S is about 35mm2 and so on. ( B+S and AWG are roughly equivalent) The aim is to have no more than about 3% but less is best

[@BubblesTheCat1]

Andrew, you must patent this ASAP, before some businesses steal your idea! Same for the water controller device. The unscrupulous people here in South Africa will copy it, and make their own version of it .... Or the Chinese....

[@jimjones7821]

most South Africans are unscrupulous - never seen such a money hungry willing to shaft you at a seconds notice community in my life as South Africans !!

[@BubblesTheCat1]

@@jimjones7821 🤭🤭

[@aus_overlander]

Water hub looks interesting!

[@jomero1808]

It looks great, like an Spod with higher capacity. Keep the hard work. I'm a big fan of your videos. Looking forward to see the water temperature controller.

[@MrCharrrles]

Nice product, I'm very interested in the water solution

[@blue-tb6uv]

Good idea, however price is not realistic though for the componentry and complexity of PCB in my opinion... It can be phrased whichever way you like its no different than a fuse box you just have appropriate diameter power trace width in PCB to handle amps exceptionally easy to calculate. If you ever messed around even with any microcontroller like arduino you alredy designed more complex circut that what this...

[@coptotermes]

I think I need some illustrations to see what problem this is actually solving. I don’t get it, maybe I’m dumb.

[@4xoverland]

It simplifies DC wiring. And in doing so, speeds up installations and makes fault finding far easier. If you don't do DC wiring installations, then this may not be obvious. If you do, then it will.

[@things_I_saw]

Mate if you bake cakes.....use self raising flour. If you use normal flour, you have extra work to do. Simple. I should try this.

[@garypavis4913]

You guys are brilliant!! I love the simplicity of your Egon DC-Hub and yet the robust aspects for us overland builders that just need thing to be solid and work well. Love the easy troubleshooting ability you have with your system along with the ability to add devices when ever needed..…or remove them. When you are out and off the grid camping the last thing I want is some digital programmer not working or shutting things down or worse yet not turning it on. Awesome product!! I need this for my newest 2022 AEV Ram 2500 build. Please tell me where I can purchase your Egon DC Hub. I am in US Arizona

[@AverageBlokeAdventures]

Am currently building an rv and would be keen to give this a go 2 fridges water pumps lights internal and external a stereo number of dc charging points etc

[@neutronstorm]

I was looking at that and I was thinking... How much would this cost. I was thinking it's probably worth using for the guy that made because he's only paying $200 for the parts. I guessed they would sell it for $800. I watched the whole video and at no point did they actually say what it does. That's because it does nothing! ...except dumb down the wiring and be a fuse box. Nothing wrong with that I guess, I can see how it could make things easier when doing a build. When hooking up all those devices a lot of fuses are required which is a pain I admit. I guess they are trying to slip this product in under the price of the redarc total vehicle management system which is a sorta similar product but has actual functionality like electronic fuses and Bluetooth controls etc. I wish them well. I will be interested in seeing if they have got the price right on this. Unfortunately I have a feeling their first and last order might be to some mysterious buyer in China 🙁

[@bogo19975]

For a product for the DIY market, $800+ dollars for a well made fuse box (as far as I can tell it may do more) is not for me. If it was priced better maybe $200-$300 with the mount I would consider it but the quality parts you can buy for $800+ this is not for me