How To Build A 451 Stroker Big Block Mopar! Part One: The Recipe, Assembling The Short Block

[@noberet]

The casting to look like stock on those heads is something I've been trying to figure out how to do for YEARS! Thank you!

[@mikecrawford5331]

That is a major plus do stock headers bolt up?

[@wulfschlueter2112]

Two thing i have learnt about leaving freshly machined blocksfor a long time is differential oil on all surfaces and if you have the money a 45 gallon drum filled with diesel drop.the block in put the lid on and done for the next 5 years

[@dinadaughtry8993]

been a rotten week and every time I get some money for my 73 charger something else comes up, but it is nice to see one that is getting the attention it deserves and a nice power plant to boot, thanks for the inspiration to keep on keeping on, the only thing different is the color and if i can afford a stroker kit it will be the 513

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

We’re finally almost ready to get the drive train and suspension back in this car. I can’t wait.

[@michaelgrogan3224]

Looking forward to this....I have a 512 stroker 440Source kit in mind for my Bee.

[@mountaincat2001]

Just subscribed yesterday. Already love it... more please

[@m1a1hm]

Man thats one nice looking engine!! It's like a work of art.

[@wiggyjones]

Good gravy, the size of those pistons.

[@bigwrenchtech]

Love those paint lines!!!

[@Jaybird66sweptline]

Nice vid, dude. As always.

[@bradsrestorations1085]

Wow! Nice build. Sorry it took me a year to watch it! I love Petty Blue. I'll be watching the whole series.

[@alanhiatt7019]

Wow, this has huge similarities to my 440 i built a year ago... same heads, same cam... that engine is gonna run great!

[@slowg8701]

Thats awesome I've got all the parts in my garage for a 451 myself!

[@EdFox-vr4ck]

Great content as always. You really can tell a technical story and make it interesting. Good luck with the rest of the build. Looking forward to seeing the end product.

[@zerogmopars746]

Nice. Small cam, but might work with the 440 source heads valve springs. I had to cleanup some small burrs on the pistons where the pin goes through the oil ring support land. The burrs were keeping the oil ring rail support from sitting flush. Just something to check on those type pistons. Dowl hole in rod bearing is if using aluminum rods.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I found a small burr in one of the oil feed holes from oil rings in to pins. Other than that they looked good. I think I pointed out the light surface rust on pins I had to clean up.

[@DarrylDutton-y3b]

Hi, to add to your edlebrock heads comment, I've run both small and big block chevys (I know) anyway I had my first set checked and OH boy. The spring pressures were in outer space (both sets), my head guy tested the flow and said they did well

[@smilsmff]

With 10.5:1 compression should be real nice performer. for Friday night blasts down the 1/4 mile

[@Roosters_Restos]

Very well done Jamie. Last engine I built like this carb to oil pan ran just over 9 grand. 440 source is a great place to spend money and great stuff. Did you bore the oil gallies like I taught you? It would be good to do for strokers. I do hope you get that stock 440 fired up soon. Rust can start in 30 days even in a controlled temp shop. It's always colder inside a closed engine and warm outside means condensed moisture. Great video none the less and your tutorial was way better that uncle Tony's how to clean parts with oven cleaner today lol. Will talk about that soon. Your pal Rooster

[@justralphajerseyguystuckin3671]

This is an Awesome build, as I always wanted a 400 built-up exactly like this, but never got around to finding a good 400 block- and then funds became non-existent for projects like this after I started battling cancer several years ago, but I'm Still HERE- Yah !...just no extra funds anymore - still 🤢

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s unfortunate. Hope you get there one of these days. I will say, this seems cool, and I can’t wait to hear it run. But one can have a lot of fun with a big block for a lot less.

[@nealzimmerman620]

Ugh!! You just sent ice water through my veins with your WD40 lesson. That's exactly what I've been doing on my new rebuilt 340 in my 68 cuda project. squirting a shot in every time i turn the engine Yep I have a feeling this winter I will be opening it up and seeing what our fine Oregon winter moisture has done to it. Horror awaits.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yeah… I wasn’t at all excited when I learned that either. With any luck it’s not so bad inside a sealed-ish engine.

[@Yo-mamashouse]

I see the Pistons say icon.....did you get them at harbor freight?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

😅

[@Ross046]

Very recent complete head job on a small D 282 six cylinder diesel. $800.00. And I provided the head.

[@g.o.b.2558]

Awesome 👌 is there any updates on this build? Can't wait to hear it running and see how it does...

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s waiting its turn. We had a few other priorities that are now done or about done. Everything takes longer than expected… this is the way of things. I did show this engine in a more complete form in my roller cam video. I’m definitely looking forward to it myself.

[@g.o.b.2558]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Sweet, I've been considering a 451 because I've heard they can handle quite a bit of abuse.. Thanks for the response 👍

[@gilbertwashburn7095]

Yeah I bought a pair of Edelbrock heads for a small box Chevy they were horrible I had to take them to my machine shopping completely redo them I called them edelbricks mass produced not paying attention you know how it goes now they're on the engine and it's screams thanks for the inspiring video my friend probably needs to sell those heads first 71 charger

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep… I’ve had a couple sets of used edelbrock heads but none fresh out of the box. They always need to be checked.

[@scottbatey3130]

And also, I love you Channel, I'll be very interested what happens here

[@mikecrawford5331]

How is that engine holding up ? Do you think strokers have a shorter lifespan?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

This engine is now in the car, but it hasn’t run yet. I hope we are back on that project in the near future. I don’t have any previous stroker experience to draw from as far as measuring longevity. There must be thousands of people out there with an opinion that counts for something on that subject, unlike mine. But I will say, the stroke in this 451 is the same as a factory 440, so… does a 400 last longer than a 440? Is there any appreciable difference? I doubt it.

[@scottbatey3130]

Mopar Joe just made 540 horsepower, 540 foot pounds of torque, with a stock stroke 406 big block Mopar, on the dyno! so if that thing doesn't make over 500 horsepower I don't think I'd be interested in that stroker kit if it's going slower?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome. There’s no point in comparing the two. Completely different builds with completely different goals. We are going to make 400-450 horsepower, but it almost doesn’t matter. We aren’t using the stroker kit to make a number. This build is all about low end torque - and it’s going to make a lot of it, and work really well on the street. It’s also going to be *extremely* stout, and at this power level, it ought to live forever. We could change the cam, add headers, and make some other small tweaks and fly past 500 HP. That’s not what we want.

[@dirtlump]

Before going Hydraulic Roller on a BB Mopar ? roll the Block over and inspect the Lifter Bores below the intersecting Oil Gallery.... use a flashlight from the Lifter galley area but look from the Crank side, and inspect the 'half moon' shaped wear pattern concentrated directly below the Oil Galley in the Lifter Bore..... very simply because worn Bore do NOT direct sufficient Oil Pressure INTO the Lifter to maintain adequate HR Lifter 'pump up' against the higher V/Spring Pressure/Rates/Ramp Velocities the HR Cams provide. * BB Mopars can be especially problematic using HR's @ higher rpm's for this reason.... and DO NOT typically respond to 'retro-fit' HR's as well as most all other Brand X retrofits due to the LARGE intersecting Oil Gallery.... and that Oil Gallery's POSITION so close to the bottom of the Lifter Bore.(small worn area that just leaks Oil Pressure allowing the HR to bleed down at rpm.) * Pin-Fit BOTH the ICON Pistons and the small ends of the H-Beam Rods to minimum .0009"(as per the paperwork instructions) * Was the Block "Decked/Squared" up ? Pretty typical to find .006" to .008" difference 'end to end' on the 400 Blocks ? * Was the Block Line Honed WITH the ARP Studs in place ? * File a very small .030" wide 45* chamfer at the #3 Main Bearing parting line on one side only, from the Oil Gallery in the Bearing REARWARD to Oil the Rear Thrust face.... especially if it's a 4 speed... to allow some pressurized Oil to migrate out to the Brg Thrust surface........as when the Clutch is depressed you are trying to push the Crank out the front of the Block and the Thrust needs Oil. * You will NOT 'glaze' the Cylinder Wall if correct Honing procedure has been used when breaking in with Oil.... Full Stop, which, that Honing procedure has CHANGED with the demise of the Old SSOU50 F/M Oil Rings that were formerly used to be utilized industry wide. TODAY.... largely due to the predominance of "hastings' Oil Rings and a CHANGE in the Anode/Cathode Moly adherence to the Oil Rings(those vertical lines/light/dark areas being left in the Bores by the oil Rings)... a 'coarser' Cylinder Honing procedure is reccommended especially if the Machine Shop is still utilizing the old 'stone' honing setups like on a Sunnen CK10.... suffice to say.... if they are ? SKIP and 400 grit whatsoever, 220 grit 20 load to size, 4 only strokes 280 grit 20 load, brushes/cork wipe and leave it. Switching to Diamond Honing procedures is highly rec'd ? I Machined/built and raced my first '451' back in the late 1970's.... we'd go down to Pomona and Buy the old Arias 7751S Pistons off Fontana Blvd in those days, done more than I can remember ? easy 50-100 or more ?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The machine shop deemed the decks square enough and left them alone beyond the smallest clean up pass. They are well aware of these issues… been there, done that. I also trust them to provide me with an adequate bore finish. This is an automatic street car. Been there, done that on wiping thrust bearings as well. I am pleased with the thrust fit being on the looser end of things and not worried about a shortage of lubrication. It won’t see high RPM, the cam profile and the rev limiter will see to that. I am not going to get scientific on measuring pin fit - I cleaned both parts and was pleased with how they felt. Again, we’re really over building a street engine here. I will look closely at the areas of the lifter bores you refer to, but this was a low mileage engine and I’m not anticipating any issues. I am intentionally using adjustable rocker arms to lash the rollers at zero to fight against lifter bleed down issues, as well as custom fitting pushrods for ideal geometry. The springs are overkill for the application, but I think we’re OK. I am aiming this setup for monster torque 1000-5500 RPM. I am not aiming for 6500+ RPM, 500 ponies, or big end drag strip action. The main point of the roller was to get away from flat tappet hydraulic.

[@dirtlump]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Put it on an Engine Dyno... watch the HR above 4000 rpm. 'Pin-Fit' is not 'scientific'... it is Rec'd by ALL H-Beam Rod Manu's EAGLE/SCAT etc., even for getting groceries. You seem bound and intent upon labeling 'GOOD" Engine Building practices as "not required' .... or somehow only necessary for 'high rpm' ? NOTHING could be further from the truth.... anything I posted earlier you shouldn't be HIDING from... or trying to MINIMIZE in importance under the guise of "street" engine ? Very simply because Mopar never built a 450-500 hp 451 now did they ? And even the factory "Magnum" Engines came done a sideline assembly line where many of what I've mentioned was performed during Assembly ? Either START learning how to do an "HP" Street Engine properly ? Or kindly stick to crap can engine assemblies at your Farm Implement Machine Shop OK ? NOT 'decking/squaring' the Block because it didn't need it ? Like WTF is wrong with these Morons....

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@dirtlump WTF is wrong with *you?* lol I'm not going to break out my inside mics and try to measure the pin fit. Sorry. I'm not that good with them, and accurately verifying the pin clearance at .0010 seems pointlessly tedious for what we're trying to achieve here. If they spin freely (but not too freely) in the piston, and ditto in the rod, what more do we really need to know? That is what I mean by "scientific." Feels good is good enough. There is an entire universe of difference between the requirements of an engine that lives at 2500-5000 RPM and an engine that lives at 6500 RPM. A factory bottom end could've done the job here. A factory bottom end with press fit pins. This is all extremely overkill. I think it's great that you know everything, but you still find time to come down from your job in the engine room at Petty Industries and bless us neanderthals with your brilliance! As I've said many times, the trick to doing this - as with anything else - is to know what you can get away with. I'm sorry if my methods hurt your feelings, but we're not doing rocket surgery here. Anyone that wants to know how to do this the right way wouldn't be on KZbin.

[@dirtlump]

@@DeadDodgeGarage You've just substantiated everything I've said... you don't have a clue what you are doing. Pin-Fit is done/measured on Pistons/Rod small ends using a Sunnen AG300 Gauge... FULL STOP.... and your assertion of breaking out your 'inside mics' only highlights your incompetence.... because you don't even know WHAT tools to use ? And once again you attempt to justify your not knowing any better.... by changing 'qualifying' criterion for being a dummy ? Look moron.... what 450-500 hp Engine did Chrysler make that 'lived' as you say between 2500-5000 rpm ? name ONE ? which is what you are asserting the "stock' specs as "good enough" Yet... the 451 you are 'assembling'... because you are NOT by any stretch a "builder'.... will easily make 450-500 hp with the Stealth Heads ? The ONLY thing you have gotten right is that yes indeed a semi floating Pin will live just fine.... as long as the "fit" in the Piston is set to .001" Never worked at Petty industries...but maybe you wish to call them and discuss what we've talked about and see what they say ?.... because you are a complete HACK.... and even worse is a HACK who thinks he knows better. Dummy up and get educated about Engines or stick to 'assembling' Briggs. Inside Mics.... my gawd.... do you use 'plasti-gauge' as well right ?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@dirtlump You seem like you're probably a really fun person at parties. The best part about all of this? I actually took your advice and checked the lifter bores. They looked great. That's right! I take useful advice from people that know more than me - even assholes sometimes! You already know what I do and don't know. I have never assembled this type of combination before. I have never even touched this type of piston before. I said it in the video. How many more times do I have to say it? I am completely untrained. I sure as shit don't have an AG-300. Once again, I have to thank you for being here in the comments, giving what may well be really excellent and correct information in the absolute shittiest way possible. I'm going to continue on with my life now.

[@joebrock9784]

Well a little bit steak and shake camp sounds good and steak and shake parking lot that's all you can really say about those I'm surprised you don't use a purple camera shaft obviously Dale do you know what they are😅😅

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’m starting to worry about you. Lol. My name still isn’t Dale

[@gilbertwashburn7095]

I would paint the engine gold but that's just me with some purple accents metal flake valve covers you know the 60s cuz I'm old

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I painted an engine gold one and still haven’t heard the end of it 😅

[@n6mz]

20:02 I'm sure that the chemists who developed WD-40 for the rocket factory in which I once worked are laughing and shaking their heads (probably from the afterlife, we're talking 1953 here) at the "applications" that their formula has found since it went commercial in 1961. Although the Convair factory was in San Diego (i.e., nearly perfect weather), the USAF had ordered so many Atlas ICBMs on a highest-national-priority basis that even the gigantic factory building didn't have enough room to store all the birds, whose tanks were manufactured from stainless steel. So Convair let a contract to the Rocket Chemical Company to design a protectant that could be applied to the tanks which had to be stored outdoors. It worked well for its intended application ... not so sure it worked as well for all the "follow-on applications."

[@william8305]

No clearance issues on the 400 block around the oil pump boss?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Negative. Is that common? This is my first stroker build, as mentioned. The engine is together, has been run in on a stand, and will be in the car this week.

[@jackbruck277]

I found a plymouth for sale on Ebay motors. 4 sale by rocket resto. Small world

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It is. Haha. Tom has been selling parts on eBay for almost 20 years. He does also sell projects from time to time.

[@matthewb8229]

Minutiae...that's a pretty high dollar word. I'm not sure I belong on this channel.

[@majortwit]

I can beat WD-40. In 1973 I did an in-frame ring job on the wonderful straight six in our 65 Mustang. I was sure the best assemblage lubrication was STP. The night I got it buttoned up it went down to 35 degrees. My starter and battery never did forgive me.

[@mikes.1882]

You dont suppose the oil hole in the rod bearings isnt an oil hole but for Dowling, do you? :)

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

No, it definitely isn’t.

[@williambryson2190]

That song that begins at 13:03 Is that your own? If it is, Yeahhhh I need to hear that whole thing. I replayed that one section more times than I care to admit. lol

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yes that’s one of mine. Haha. Never finished or released that one. Any music on the channel was made by me.

[@michaelnault5905]

I didn't like that body style when it first came out. Now it looks timeless fast, even parked. With all that work in it, keep it clear of the wall. Unless you got some lessons from the King!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Completely agree. They look pretty good these days! It’s a customer car so I definitely won’t get to test it “thoroughly…” I definitely hope not to send it into the wall. Haha.

[@autonomous_collective]

PART TWO??

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’ll happen! As discussed in the live. Haha.

[@staceyrenner5418]

Hmmmmm....thoughts on putting that kind of money into an engine and then choking it with stock manifolds? Seems like trying to deflate a zeppelin with a drinking straw. If I were closer I've got a brand new set of headers that I was going to run on the Cordoba, I'd happily donate them lol. I could also be way out to lunch and the factory manifolds flow really well. I meant absolutely no offense to the owner.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s possible we may still opt for headers. At the kind of RPM this engine will be living at, a factory set of earlier HP manifolds will do quite well - and avoid all of the problems that come along with headers, namely ground clearance and inevitable exhaust leaks. Again we’re not making 500 horsies here. It’s the same game I’m always playing - know what you can get away with.

[@Mr.mopar71]

Why didn't the machine shop deck the mating surfaces?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The head surfaces? If they had thought it was necessary, I’m sure they would have said so.

[@Mr.mopar71]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I saw pitting on the block surface. I'm assuming it was fine, but still.

[@rockymason7695]

Would be much better to have bored the block mains to fit the stock crank, the meat is already there,than weakening the crank

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

And then re-machine all of the bearing registers? And side clearance the saddles for thrust bearing fitment? And fly cut a new groove for the rear main seal? What an insane amount of work that would be for no reason. The smaller main bearing is one of the benefits of the short deck engine. Lower bearing speed and less frictional loss. Another big benefit of the 400 block is all of the beef around the main journals - but we’re supposed to take some of that away? Given that thousands of people have done it the other way for decades with success, I’m going to have to disagree.

[@rodneybyrd9516]

Tiny camshaft but the heads will let it breathe some. This engine would be great for EFI, with that LSA and tame duration!! It's gonna sound good, but not lopey. Peak power less than 5000rpm but *lookout* torque from 500rpm up!! LOL

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Bingo! It’s a pretty mild “modern” cam profile with a good bit of lift but much less duration than you’d find on a traditional hot rod cam (although thanks to the aggressive roller ramp, it’s probably got more in the curve than the numbers might indicate,) with a really good head and other nice components. And it will indeed have Sniper EFI. It’s going to be a huge torque party - and we’re going to have that party at an extremely usable RPM. I love big horsy dyno numbers as much as the next guy, but this is something a guy can actually use!

[@rodneybyrd9516]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Lope is overrated on the street when all your competition sees are taillights! Just MoPar Joe suprised everyone building a 406 BB (.030" over 400) with a cast crank and a small roller cam for his bracket Barracuda. Commenters think it's "broken" because it didn't rev to 7000rpm with the 3.375" stroke, yet the HP/CID numbers are awesome at a manageable (read CONSISTENT and RELIABLE) RPM. Love the channel and this build. #following

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@rodneybyrd9516 Someone else brought up Joe's build and said that if this engine can't make more HP than his, then the stroker kit isn't worth the money 😅 Right after I literally said that a horsepower number was not enough remotely the goal here. Some commenters just have nothing better to do with their lives than piss on our parties.

[@dirtlump]

If your Cylinders are exhibiting vertical 'lines' of various thin/wide shaded areas after rolling the Engine over a few times.... that is the Hastings Oil Rings and typically indicative of insufficient 'coarseness' of the final Honing Plateau ? If that is present ? I would suggest Engine Run Stand run time be extremely limited short duration.... to ensure as much Hone as possible remains for loading/unloading of the rings in the Car driving under accel/decel. Just say'in.... might be a good idea to just fire and check the rear main for leaks on the run stand only... as the HR don't need squat anyways. Again... only "if" you were seeing those vertical 'lines' in the Cylinders from rolling the engine over by hand during assembly.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I have not seen any lines yet, but I’ll take a look. The honing finish should be set up correctly for these rings, but I obviously can’t guarantee that. Yes, as it is a roller cam, this will not get a 20 minute break in on the cart. We’ll fire it up, check for misfires, awful noises and leaks, and then shut it down. It’ll go in the car and get a dynamic load test drive / break in as soon as possible.

[@dirtlump]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Look, not nice to say this.... but you gotta LOT to learn about Engine Building ? All your videos are doing is propagating the Myth that any nimrod can out out and Buy a Stroker Kit.... get it 'blessed' by some farm implement Machine Shop.... then screw it together and VOILA..... "Hero" medal ? This is why so many POOR legacy Engines are being built... nothing but trouble later on ... and WHY the popularity of going to an Auto Wrecker and doing a 5.7 Hemi swap.... BECAUSE WE'VE FORGOTTEN HOW TO DO THE LEGACY ENGINES PROPERLY !!!!!!!! Everything now HIDES behind "it's ONLY a street Engine" or NOT a "Race" Engine..... NOT doing things properly word rationale. You carry on giving the Legacy Engines a bad rap..... I'll carry on pointing out where you are !

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@dirtlump A farm implement machine shop? Lol. Ok. I'll tell the extremely talented and knowledgable folks that build performance engines at Johnson every day that you said that. That's actually literally the exact opposite of what I'm saying. Bob Nobody shouldn't just buy a stroker kit, then stand in line for his metal. I have resisted even thinking about building one for over a decade, choosing instead to work with factory bottom end parts. People are going to do it, and maybe I can help. What the fuck are you even talking about? This is literally the first video I've ever made about a stroker engine, and the first one I've ever built. Who's hiding behind "it's only a street engine" but me? It seems way more common that people think they're just going to screw a bunch of expensive parts together and make 600 horsepower. I DON'T. I CAN'T. I WOULDN'T TRY. The next installment in this series goes over all of the problems I've found just trying to put the pieces together, and further drives home the overarching theme that is featured in all of my build videos: check everything, trust nothing. Establish a method and procedures, and stick to them. This is LITERALLY a street engine in a street car, that has to work in front of a slightly looser than stock converter and a steetable gear. I'm intentionally putting a combination together to do that. That's the fucking lost art. Selecting components that work together to achieve a specific goal. How about you go back to your corner, and we wait to see if this build achieves our goals. *Then* you can come back in here and tell me I'm a moron! One final thought for you. I'm the one that told YOU I have a lot to learn. Simply by posting a video, I broadcast to the world exactly what I do and don't know, but I literally say as much all the time too. The entire point of this channel is to share the knowledge that I do have, while being open about the things I don't know. I'm not a guru, I'm not a genius, I'm not even a schooled mechanic. I am just some guy. Was that nice enough for you? Thank you fucking very much.

[@dirtlump]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Well good... if you've got some knowledgeable people close by then go ask 'Johnson' about Pin-Fitting ? GO AHEAD ... I dare you ? Here's a little forecast... if you're lucky enough rear main don't leak..... then the audible 'Piston Slap' in that thing will sound like it's a diesel... and then when it runs HOT all the time... and after you played with timing, jetting, radiators, thermostats, and on... and on... and on.... all to no avail... then I hope you remember this little exchange... and it motivates you to STOP making KZbin videos and START educating yourself.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@dirtlump ok

[@dougjackson8059]

you are right its dead try a 496 ci

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Wut lol

[@blownaway4371]

What ever came about with the 451?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

We installed it in the car last week! I will finally have a follow up video after it’s up and running.

[@karlbaker1943]

The only thing you gain or loose is 30 lbs? Why not offset grind 440 crank and make a 471?

[@karlbaker1943]

Use pipe plugs with square or nut heads in block drains. The socket style will be frozen and stripped after one summer when trying to drain block.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Even better question - why do all that when we already have 451 out of the box with this crank? This is the original 400 block to the car we are building. We don’t have a 440 block. Also, as someone who routinely removes decades old socket style block drains, I’ll have to disagree with you there. I’ve also rounded off the square style - grabbing them with an open ended wrench sucks. On the socket style I’ve got options.

[@stevt100]

What happened to part #2 on this build?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Still in the works, although my recent video about roller cams was a bit of an update.

[@wintonwright4244]

All your bring company's almost without exception speed pro whoever recommend using WD40 for ring installation so tell your friends and commenters that you're ir correct

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well, we’re both correct it turns out. It works fine. I’ve used it for years. It only seems to become a problem when it sits on clean machined metal for an extended period of time that is exposed to moisture. I have actually verified this with a block I sprayed down with WD for protection - I thought. All of the rough cast areas look ok. All of the nice machined areas are a rust factory. Lesson learned. Also, the oil worked much better as far as lubricant, and installation of the pistons was much easier with it. I will get to run this engine soon and see what break in is like, but I think a little oil is the winner.

[@dougjackson8059]

you are wasting yor time…try building a 496ci that makes hp not a measly 451

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

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