Decisions and Dilemmas [S4E8]

[@techmeister3208]

Leo who is restoring Tally Ho used a technique using a frame around the place your trying to make perfectly flat. The work piece us in the frame and a jig sits in top if the frame with a router attached. You can adjust the depth and move the router in any x and y position. You might be able to use this technique to remove the glass and plywood from the back of the teak. And get the back perfectly flat. I enjoy your process.

[@robertjohansen7191]

So.. my father, and my grandfather were boatbuilders. i grew up in a wood-boatbuilding town in Northern-Norway. I'm a mechanic. It's a long time ago i left my hometown, but i can assure everyone who knows anything about boats would watch this. Restoring a boat is about asking knowledge. If you don't do that, you would probably fail. I would say the boat is a masterpiece, and if you can seal it properly, there is no reason to take the whole deck out. unless the deck is ok. You and Aladino can do this! He is the best boatbilder / restorer i have seen so far on youtube! Thank you for the video! :)

[@natemcdaniel2139]

A number of boats, including some Cape Georges, Skookums and WestSail 32s were clearly influenced by that great design by Colin Archer. It is amazing that some of the original Colin Archers can still sail! I am sure both your father and grandfather knew these boats well.

[@kevinjasper415]

Maya please write a book? I am an ex teacher of English. I have read many, and I mean many essays and short creative stories. The turn of phrases you use , your use of colour, note I spelt colour correctly, fantastic, add that to the sounds you hear, your use of emotions and feelings just perfect. So please keep the programmes comming, your introduction to each episode and most of all you own music and indents you create plus your use of photography. You are a brilliant couple. Loving you to bits!

[@waynerudiger1756]

Immovable object meets unstoppable force - go Aladino! Love your sense of humor as well. I can't imagine what it's like to become a KZbin star. It's taken you a while but you are really opening up and it's a joy to see more of your personality.

[@jackdaws-corwin6300]

amazing work. reminds me of my days doing building maintenance but you guys have it all over that. i am just learning boat anatomy. Leo's Tally Ho is wonderful, but Magic Carpet 2 is also great. thank you so much for sharing your experience, talents and delightful sense of adventure.

[@NormanHenryMartin]

A video of note. Thanks. As we prepare to buy our second boat and do a renovation, these videos of yours take on special significance. The key word is "patience." Not to get into the coaming debate beyond saying that most of my life has been sitting on wet decks while racing or delivering race boats. Dry is good! As for canvass weather clothes. They often result in stanchion damage.

[@richb313]

You gotta love the persistence at trying to get that teak removed. While the power tools you have were generously donated they are consumer level not professional grade when considering duty cycle or how long can they be run without damage. Once the magic smoke escapes there is no putting it back. When they finally get replaced use them for much shorter periods of time with generous cool down times. You guys are great, Keep it up.

[@polderfischer8565]

I will support Roberts Johansons opinion! If there is no structural damage to the deck...leave and seal it. Cutting rotten parts of the halfbeams should be no problem and glueing/fitting in new parts will be very ok and sturdy enough and saves tons of time, money and working power. The boat is a real beauty with all that little nice things like bronze hinges etc. New subscriber ;-) Greetings from northern germany

[@bobbiejay2085]

'Aladino the Barbarian with a golf swing' ... funny. Oh I could feel the frustration way over here in Australia. Love the dedication, skill, mind searching, discoveries, solutions and wins. A joy to witness.

[@peterteichroeb1772]

When Aladino turns into a Barbarian he is using BF&I. It always works when the frustration level is high. BF&I? Brute force and ignorance!

[@podocrypto6072]

Grind the inside of the bull works and the deck non-skid and grind off the fiberglass non-skid with heavy grit grinding pads on a disk sander/grinder, as well as up the cabin sides by 4-6" from the deck. Then apply a 1708 biaxle fiberglass layer from the inside top of the bullworks, down to the deck, across the deck and up the side of the cabin by 4-6", using a vinylester resin , then a layer on the deck of 1/2" coring material, such as nidacore, on the entire deck, from bullworks to cabin. Then a layer of 1808 (90 degree biaxil fiberglass) and while still wet, another layer of 1708 (45 degree biaxle) and the final layer of chop mat. Use peel ply so it kicks with a smooth finish. Use faring to level and smooth out the decks and fare in the cabin sides. sand and smooth out the cabin sides and pint with Awlgrip. Paint the fared decks with a real 2 part white epoxy with white pigment. Finish your bullworks. Add in a very good synthetic teak simulated glue down deck or tape out a non-skid area, mix up non-skid and then apply where you want the non-skid to be. With the coming, just extent it straight back to the edge of the raised deck. Make an appropriate hatch lid for that rear compartment, and teak it all up to the inside side of the coming. i.pinimg.com/originals/27/3e/c2/273ec2ede457d67598d9b345ce201097.jpg

[@belledetector]

The benefit of the open aft cockpit solution with the increased sitting/working/living space and storage access, will outweigh the disadvantage of the "wetter" cockpit from rear hitting waves. It´s a much larger boat than the MC1, and in conditions where waves might roll in over the stern, you will be wearing wet gear anyway... Remember you will be "living" on the boat more than you will be sailing..

[@nooneanybodyknows1321]

Grumpy Diney, torcher, and then more torcher. 🤗 I trust it will get better. 💙

[@natemcdaniel2139]

On my Skookum, am replacing the cockpit teak areas with salvaged old growth redwood. It is amazing material. I think it will last just fine- it spent 60 years as the sides of a water tank and the wood is still in perfect condition.

[@robm.4512]

I’m with you guys, I’ve not come across any great way of removing a screwed and hard glued teak deck from ply. I reckon the wrecking bar method is as good as any other to be honest and it looks like you recovered 99% of the teak ok. Keep on keeping on, I have no doubt that she’ll become another masterpiece like her forerunner. Cheers from Cornwall, UK. 😎👍🍻

[@samaipata4756]

It is pure joy to watch your videos! They are highly educational on sooo many levels, project management, team management, methodical analysis, research and requirements, methodical decision making, procedures, including all the requirements for videographing & documenting. Your videos are a treasure for any one from the sailing enthusiast , to boat designer and builder, up to the project manager and CEO of any company! After this project and with all the acquired experiences maybe you might wanna consider writing a book and do seminars. I don‘t think it is just me who is so deeply impressed by what you do. Great job!👍💪👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏🙏💞🇨🇦

[@adrianwilding2912]

What you now need is a drum sander to refinish those teak strips. Hand sanding is going to take longer than it did to remove them in the first place and a small belt sander will be a chore. Forget thickness planing as one pass under will kill the blades from the grp. By the way, we Brits pronounce 'rebate' so well done for getting that right! Carry on!👍👍

[@dianemacfie-loucks6392]

I love how clean and tidy you keep the workshop and the boat

[@countrycruiser1570]

When Momma ain't happy, no body happy. You heard it here first. Love the journey. XOXO

[@gkkes]

Before making your final decision, I would certainly build the bimini and walls. The fear of water ingress in big seas may not be of significance. Great work.

[@mikeridgway4439]

I really enjoy hearing about the process that proceeds the decisions, and then watching the work that gets done to produce the boat you both think will get you safely and comfortably around the world. As I've mentioned before, I almost like the refitting videos more than the sailing ones, but that said, I eagerly await the completion of the refit to see the joy on your faces when you finally get to splash Sailing Magic Carpet II!

[@jerrym3261]

I think a lot of people get caught up on making logical decisions and don't see the psychological impact of the decisions you make. "The boat you both think will get you safely and comfortably around the world" is huge when the situation gets dicey or even may get dicey.

[@poulbannowmork6607]

It looks like most of the beams with rot problems are the short ones due to the location of the chain plates and not the very long cross structural ones. If you only cut out enough deck to be able to make a 1:5 vertical scarf joint to a new beam extension you would avoid the complicated joint at the deck house and be able to do everything including the new blocks from above. I love the sensible concept and design of your boat and hope you will be careful not to radically change the interior. All the best and god luck ahead.

[@gianthippo1285]

Get a chain fall, will be very handy lifting and lowering loads, namely your new engine 🙂

[@henrikgraversen1943]

Uhhh ... I feel for you ... I have an X-95 from X-Yachts from the same vintage ... but luckily no plywood ... only foam cores ... but love your KZbin channel. You will get there 🙏

[@sashastarshanti3599]

A labor of love, sweet, and tears makes life beautiful. Just think of the day when wind fills your sails and your boat will truly be a magic carpet upon the waves. All because of your efforts.

[@davidcahill3104]

I heard a boat builder describe refitting a boat as building a new boat with the old boat in the way. We are doing a major refit on our boat and I can see it is going to be ongoing and the other saying of not letting perfect getting the way of good which mean sometime you have to make it good without doing what you might consider the perfect solutions. Most of the time I have found building the boat has been making decisions. Regarding the cockpit coaming, any wave that is going to come over the stern is not going to be impeded by the small coaming at the stern. Good work feeling your pain.

[@jamesrobinson3327]

Learning so much. So interesting. Thank you. Maya, I hope all that work hasn’t taken you away from your music…

[@davidillig7326]

I totally agree with Marco.... "Why fix it if it's not broke?". The rotten half beams can be removed one at a time. As each one is removed, a closer inspection of the plywood deck can be performed easily. Replacing those half beams is even easier than removing them as the blocking is already structured to be removable. A small circular saw and multi tool can get you started quickly! Be careful using "pry bars" as they can impose excessive force on surfaces that are susceptible to damage.

[@SailingMagicCarpet]

You actually can’t replace the deck beams and blocking from below - at least not properly. Todd from Cape George marine works confirmed this and we’ve followed the refit of several other Cape George boats. We’ve done our research

[@juliesimpson3729]

You guys are amazing and so knowledgeable. I just love this project!

[@ABeriault]

Well done Magic Carpet! Like I said before...Life, IS like building a boat...Full of surprises! Cheers

[@stefanbusuttil]

A couple is having each a good idea, joining both together and coming up with a totally new fantastic solution. Keep up your good work and positive spirits.

[@honorharrington4546]

The single hatch in the back, could it be re-engineered into two similar sized or larger hatches that swing up and outward to port and starboard? Much better access for things like fenders and stern lines or stern anchor. Also eliminates the tiller blocking problem. Gas charged lift cylinders are surprisingly cheap these days.

[@philgray1023]

Unfortunately stainless steel ones aren't so cheap. The steel ones don't do well. Our kicker one only lasts about 5 years. It cost $1400 to replace in 2012, $650 in 2016 and $385 in 2021. The reason it got cheaper is because Profurl stopped making them or getting them from France from a company that got them from Germany and sent them to Australia. Now we get it custom manufactured here.

[@simonbath4762]

Having stumbled upon you chanel i must say how much i love the content, i did my time as a shipwright in a traditional yard in Australia and can only marvel at you skills in displaying the joys of restoration as it really is, attacking every aspect of the project a dozen differ to ways until finding a solution that sort of works!

[@d14551]

Seems to me you asked if anyone had suggestions for how to remove teak, not opinions on whether or not you should remove it or whether or not you are doing too much work. This is your boat, your channel and your life. I do enjoy, very much, getting an up close view of what you are doing and why, so thank you.

[@roadie3124]

Teak is wonderful stuff and should be saved. Well done!

[@GregBird]

Loving this rebuild series... pretty excited to see how this turns out. I love this boat, and for me those 2 little front portholes make it all that much better! I am actually pretty impressed at the teak, and how clean and dry it was underneath. Usually I see that on a boat and it is ingress central. Great work guys! And Hello from Victoria BC.

[@brucewymond5138]

Great effort on lifting the teak deck. For the combing a further issue is the drainage of the cockpit if you are swamped or fill the cockpit in an accidental broaching. It will be interested to see how this is resolved. Thanks

[@lindacantwell8266]

You two are so amazing. You are delightful to watch.

[@SailingMagicCarpet]

Thank you so much Linda!

[@mattveligdan7605]

Ever thought about adding a soft camera mounted light? Could help fill out some of those darker interior shots without being obnoxious. There's some gentle/warm LED versions out there. Keep up the great work!

[@deirdretobin3672]

When looking at altering the rear deck, consider how the mainsheet system will work too... For extended passage, a take on the German main sheeting approach with two adjustments, one either side has a lot of merit. Safe and keeps clutter to a minimum.

[@billfromgermany]

For what it‘s worth, I‘d go for the „Aladino“ solution. The occasions when green water comes over the stern are very rare when you are trade wind sailing. Even with stern winds, the seas have to pretty big for them to come over the stern. The waver breaks on the side coamings are also a great idea, and the newly won space on the stern deck will be a huge bonus. One change which I wish I had made on my boat is to glass in the cockpit drains, and to increase the size of the aft drain, which goes directly through the stern of the cockpit and out the transom. My thoughts are with you on this refit! 👍

[@thomasescape3002]

Hi Maya, Aladino. When I look at the depth of the cockpit, I wonder if you don't want to mount a higher rim there. You sit safer, more comfortable and less splash water enters the cockpit. - I also have a center cockpit and it is significantly high above the waterline. Thus also more acceleration and heeling in heavy seas. Beyond that, I wish you much success with the refit, which will probably be far more extensive. It is always so... Kind regards from Netherland, Thomas

[@NikonFM2n]

I'm very glad and relieved that you guys know when to ask for help, so as not to get in too much over your heads. 😁 We're all here with you in spirit.

[@jimblack5596]

I admire your hard work, determination and positive spirit!

[@robertbeckett7829]

As you know the difference between a wet and dry cockpit is 10 knots, it`s either under 15knots (dry cockpit) or over 20knots (wet cockpit). I had side curtains and they were great but would go with a full coaming, good luck!!

[@seekme365]

Do it how you want after making informed decisions, as you’ve planned, and it will be YOUR new home! ❤️ Most of us don’t know a thing! 😉 Good job getting that engine and teak removed. 💪

[@curtisloud1027]

One thig at a time just keep at it patience and persistance are powerful! You got this!

[@sailingalcanzar]

I redid my teak covered plywood decks by cutting along every second teak strip through to the bottom of the plywood deck. I used a 4 in circular saw that has a 1/8 in thick carbide blade so none of the teak was damaged. Lifting them out after was easy and then I recovered the teak by milling it off the plywood. Put a new subdeck on and glued the teak back on top.

[@sungeunpark5280]

The thing that makes things beautiful is not the completeness of the things or any logical arrangements of them, but the love in them who see the things. You are the most beautiful souls of love.

[@laureljackson8978]

Your patience and persistence are inspiring! Hang in there. Bless you both! Can't wait to see her in the water.

[@gailalbers1430]

Great episode guys. Respekt got all your can do attitude and finding solutions for tricky problems. And it clearly is tricky - even got a learned, professional boatwright like Dino . It’s exciting to be able to see how your tackling this project. Safety First ! is my motto!!

[@zoesdad961]

Just a thought. You could take the aft half of the cockpit well and make a storage space. Added benefit is a smaller well for a pooping wave to fill- something to think about when doing serious off shore work. You could also extend it starboard to include the area you are taking from the quarterberth. Lin and Larry had a small cockpit well too. My Westsail 32 was built this way.

[@chipcurry]

Such good videos. Love the intro, thank you very much for your incredible work In boat renewal and documentation!

[@mikemarriam]

In the end it seems you settled on the best way to remove the teak. Hardly any damage to it it seems and it was the fastest.

[@jerrym3261]

I have seen the pride Aladino takes in varnished wood. I have cut down trees and made a lot of things. That kind of pride is something you can not buy. The more work you put in the more feels you get out.

[@eleanorchapple8772]

When you got that teak off I was standing up and cheering!!

[@jerrym3261]

Can you imagine what it's going to be like when it gets varnished. I'll be honest, when Aladino says, "It's your pride", it brings tears to my eyes. Humans need to do that pride thing more often than they do, and not because of something they bought.

[@sharonfoley9885]

Beautiful

[@jackielight6908]

I realize I know nothing about boats but I was hopeful the remodeling would be almost done by now and then the fun begins but I have a feeling it's going to be a few more month before you guys are finished so I'll just have to just keep being patient I'm sure you guys want to get out there just as much as we want to see you out there as well as the finished product what is it they say all good things come to those who wait

[@gutsanglory1]

Nice when your refitting the boat at this level, you can decide to make changes to suit your lifestyle and wishes. Funny, I was thinking the exact same thing about only removing the outer half or third of the deck as you were explaining it. Keep smiling guys, the ol'George will be on the mend soon!! Cheerz!!

[@mikemills841]

How about - remove end of deck beam with scarf cut, pull out blocking, renew blocking, renew section of deck beam with epoxy long scarf joint ? I've never had a good epoxy joint fail. You could try one first off ..... nothing lost. Good luck ⛵

[@kajton7871]

That was some great new energy from Barbarian Aladino! Great video!!!

[@kenknight4560]

All projects of this size need the Big Hammer, sooner or later, the trick is when to use it and how hard to hit it! Great to see your progress and skills.

[@marcoheijboer7003]

Great that you showed the cross section of the deck/hull Connection. For a grp boat verry unusual to have plywood deck but at least now it is understandable what is the issue here. Of course I have not seen the deck as you guys have, but I my motto is if it is not broeken don’t fix it. I could not helpmthinking that looking at alladino ripping open the cockpit teak. The rotten deck beams, you will muscle them in from below. Great episode though I totally feel you aladino when Sabine that taking dissitions is the most anoying part in a process. Respect for you guys going after your dream boat.

[@SailingMagicCarpet]

You actually can’t replace the deck beams and blocking from below - at least not properly. Todd from Cape George marine works confirmed this and we’ve followed the refit of several other Cape George boats. We’ve done our research.

[@marcoheijboer7003]

Having seen the next episode I get it, you cant reach the blocking than only from above. Im with tod, make small hatches in the deck. Love your adventure and the way you publish it.

[@ndanieltx]

Amazing patience working on this project.

[@mikewillis2934]

Perseverance pays off, breathed a sigh of relief when the teak came off in one piece. As well as savings made it's great to recycle all these reusable pants. Thanks for sharing. Mike

[@michaelfunk5951]

Lots of difficulties! Looking forward to hearing Todd’s suggestions

[@melee401]

Bosch Bulldog hammer drill on hammer only setting with a chisel bit. Grind the chisel of course to what you need.

[@philgray1023]

That is a very interesting idea. I once hired an electric drill thing to remove floor tiles. It came with a flexible blade that slid under the tiles. It was heavy work though.

[@melee401]

@@philgray1023 I just ordered up another cordless model to deal with under-cutting the perrywinkle we are getting rid of from the front yard in lue of zoysia. I have picked around on the stuff for about week now and I can easily see the power tool will be well worth the expenditure here digging that out. I can only find a 3" chisel but it has a like 10" shaft. So yeah I can just under-cut the shit and knock off the dirt as I roll it on up baby!.

[@richm9309]

Sorry 'bout that, but I watched them out of order, already aware of Todd's recommendations. From what you've shown us, it is only the outer ends of some of the deck support pieces that seem to have been affected about 3 to 5 inches from the ends. My unusual suggestion involves making the fix stronger than the original, an old timer philosophy. It requires custom making two triangular pieces of multi-layered marine plywood bolted through on each side of the damaged joints with brass hardware, basically re-inforcing what is still there.

[@richardnwilson]

Great video thank you! Here is a technique I use occasionally when I think I'm a be pushing a tool a little Beyond its limit and it's getting too hot. Turn the tool off and use a vacuum cleaner to draw air through the air Inlet or Outlet of the tool. This will really cool the tool down in a minute or two and allow you to start work again. Of course the case of the tool cools down very quickly but you want to keep running the vacuum cleaner until you think that the motor has actually cooled down as well.

[@philgray1023]

Now there's a thing. My el-cheapo multi tool comes with a vacuum attachment port on the back, but these thing make very little dust when compared to an angle grinder or sander. There really isn't an intake for the dust either. I wonder if it is just intended to act as a cooling air flow.

[@philgray1023]

I have been guilty of mistreating wallpaper scrapers for similar jobs. At least they are cheap, as is my non smoking multi tool. We are Dodgers fans, as in the canvas dodgers you attach to your lifelines, not only do they keep you dry but they keep the wind out and stop things falling overboard. Thanks for the video folks.

[@shirleyboy8859]

I am feeling the pain you are going through..... It was always going to be a lot of work.... But I am looking forward to seeing your smiles when you are sailing around the Hawaiian Islands, cocktails in hand...Keep that thought and the work will be easy.... Maybe :-))))))) xxxx

[@jeffadams7134]

Hey Aladino , do not rip the DECK apart, unless the Carlin is ROTTEN. You can either SISTER the beams from below deck, or epoxy + fiber cloth where needed. If the DECK is not ROTTEN, leave it alone!. You can also use aluminum "L" brackets to reinforce and support the beams. From a classic yacht restorer for 40 years.

[@SailingMagicCarpet]

The beams are visible from inside and are a beautiful structural part of the boat. We don’t want patchwork sistered and fibreglassed beams - now is our chance to do this properly.

[@jerrym3261]

Another excellent report "from them that's doin'". I love your process and admire your great psychology. I, like many people, find the easiest and cheapest way and worry a lot that the time will come that I realize I have killed myself or worse. You do get out what you put in and you two put in the most. I think you secretly enjoy the decision making part. I know I do even though I tend to not reach out to others for help gaining information to guide my decision. People tend to not understand that you aren't asking them to make the decision for you so, I avoid that unpleasantry. Good luck to you and yours. Keep on keeping on.

[@billsteele1788]

... the boat yard here does not allow teak fabrication on the yard due to contamination in the laminates. Teak, as you know is very oily. -Bill

[@cana125dh7322]

Such perseverance. God Bless.

[@curtisloud1027]

Use the sawsall with hack saw blade for under the teak!

[@NeeltjeHH]

Have I also love the channel “Sail Life” where Danish Mads is restoring a Warrior. Maybe he can give you a little inspiration, becauce his boat was really bad when he started. I am sure you will find a way to solve the problems, love your channel!

[@thomasdavison8996]

I love watching the work you guys are doing. Lots of decisions still need to be made, but in the end it will be just what you guys wanted. Keep up the great work.

[@MarcelEling]

Nice to see how you are solving your problems

[@MountainPirate]

The propulsion of an engine in comparison to that of a bathtub is also way better :-D

[@ttpersonalaccount]

Enjoyed seeing the real struggles. Thanks you two.

[@altacat9702]

...wonderful work : ) ...wonderful video...thank you for sharing your world with us ...

[@stevejackson4089]

A bath on the engine room would be fun, but the cockpit looks like a perfect bath shape already ;)

[@mk1photography62]

This channel is actually more like a TV show and I love it! Great production as always

[@raym8158]

My suggestion is to not cut the deck longitudinally 8 inches away from the bulwarks, or to lift the entire cabin to gain access to the trapped plywood. Instead, cut straight down into the deck as close to the cabin as you can. This will enable you to remove almost the entire plywood deck except for the piece trapped between the cabin and carlins below, and will allow you to have full access to the blocking and half beams for removal and repair. Once that is done, you can sister pieces of wood onto the sides of the carlins (if the carlins are wide enough, you may not have to do this because when you make your cut through the deck, you may be partially on top of the carlins). When it comes time to reinstall the plywood deck, it can be firmly tied back into the carlins, reestablishing the strength that was lost by cutting the deck. The wood that is 'sistered' onto the carlins will provide support for the entire edge of the new plywood deck nearest the cabin. If you cut the plywood 8 inches longitudinally away from the bulwarks, you will end up with an ugly seam that is unsupported between the half beams. Good luck! Both of you are doing a great job!!!

[@rolyoly100]

Wow, both such valid points. I will be looking forward to hearing your final decision

[@normanboyes4983]

I feel your pain. My view, based only what I could see, would be - if the rot is at the beam shelf end of the deck beam - is to do the repair from below, make up three quarter length beams inserted into the beam shelf and sistering to the existing beams and bolted through. On repower I got - are you retaining the original layout or exploring sail drive (or is hull shape not suitable)? Looking forward to future videos and working under extreme climatic conditions.😉 Keep up the good work.👍⛵️

[@bryanwentzel5565]

With all the deck work you are doing I would suggest building a working platform around the hull to save your knees and back.

[@peterengel7885]

There is also the safety factor. One slip, long way down. The project will come to a stop, maybe permanently.

[@SoItGoesCAL34]

Good job. Thanks for sharing.

[@sailingcitrinesunset4065]

Having the combing like it is makes it a blue water boat. I would even suggest making it a little higher as it would be more comfortable to lean back on and better in rough weather to keep waves crashing over the boat out of the cockpit.

[@greghart6310]

Scary removal but you used the correct method. Split and delaminate the plywood if required, anything rather than damage the good wood. I build furniture and when a part needs replacing often the only way is destroy it, chiseling it away from the rest of the piece so as to preserve that which you wish to keep.

[@richardnwilson]

When I get burned out from making too many decisions I just go spend an hour and clean the shop to give my brain a rest!

[@DWilliams-ce8nb]

Good technique.

[@RenegadeADV]

Brace yourselves, the 'why aren't you going electric' comments are coming! 🤣 My thought is the more flat deck space you can make in the rear there the better. While bigger than Magic Carpet 1, II is still a 'small' boat. If you build a nice set of combings that work as seat backs on the sides of the cockpit, that can extend further back, creating a dam keeping the deck washers out.

[@philgray1023]

I'm thinking the same. When you have flogged a diesel flat out and full sail just to claw off a lee shore once, or to get out of being embayed, you know what you need. It isn't batteries at 20%. Surprising to some folks, but all weather isn't as predicted. Also sailing around in circles in a 4 metre sea all night because you arrived too late to get inside the reef is not the adventure too many people enjoy.

[@nick.caffrey]

It's tough when the only way to move forward is to resort to labour-intensive, tool-poor, hard graft. But if anybody can power through, it's you two. Keep calm and sail on! 🦾

[@iBradWatson]

That is some thick solid teak. Could you cut the teal in half giving you twice as much teak so you wouldn’t have to buy teak for the stearn? Just an idea. If you like the thickness, you could laminate it to some other material.

[@MonicaRrtx]

I just cant wait to see the finish project, MCII.

[@journeymanadventure]

Deck beams. Are the rotten ones rotten all the way across or at the outboard edge. If so cut the deck around half way from the outer edge and sister the new beams to the old. You could also cut the plywood close to the coach house so you have access to the beams which would make it easier to join, then re plywood the deck and tab it well. Many blue water boats use canvases around the cockpit which is a big comfort plus in cool weather to help against the chill and salt sorry though I'd still prefer the coming all round so water on the top can run around and exit on the lower so you don't end up with a pool on the deck when on a heal. That locker under the tiller could be made wider so it has two half lids instead of one bulky one which could be teak so you can have both a coming and a poop deck.

[@mp6756]

Painful but successful when I was hearing the wood splitting as you drove the pry bar deeper and deeper I was hoping it was plywood being torn apart. It looks like the plywood was as dry as the day it was installed. I think that is a good representation of the overall condition of the deck. But I do understand your wanting to fix the beam shelf wood.

[@ChristianLaurinE]

WRT to the structure at the back, the answer is already quite logical, at least IMO. If this were a Magic Carpet type scenario then you would make the large deck and not worry about a wet cockpit. But this is not a magic carpet scenario. What I am trying to get at this is your blue water boat. MEANING... You will be hitting oceans full force with waves, wind and so on. IMO as I own a motorized Magic Carpet type boat (200 NM distance), there is a difference between mostly coastal and crossing oceans. You need to focus on crossing oceans, hence the thingy at the back stays up.

[@allan8004]

Hi guys, I'm no expert have no boat building background but could you cut through the plywood alongside the carling and then fill the existing plywood with penetrating epoxy( to save digging it out ) before reconstructing the deck beams, and your new deck would be then fitted similar to newer construction methods, leaving the cabin wall nice and solid, as I say, no expert but a solution maybe, great work all the best, Al

[@gilregan7734]

Guys Andy at Boat Works Today did a video on making a pattern for a teak deck and who made the deck for him. Keep Smiling it's looking good. Fair Winds and Following Seas from the crew of Sv Celtic Lady, Seawind II 68 Ketch

[@fonhollohan2908]

Hello Aladino, have you considered using a Sawzall with a metal blade for removing the teak decking? the metal blade has finer teeth and is a very thin blade vs the normal cutting blade that they use. It won't be a nearly as invasive compared to using a normal blade. also have you considered replacing the rotten cross beams from underneath, instead of tearing that fiberglass deck apart?

[@kragge2]

Like always, a great film! I am a great fan of your channel. With respect to the problem hatch versus tiller: I recently saw a sliding hatch on a rail to starboard. Unfortunately, I can’t recall where/when. But it must have been on a channel of one of your KZbin colleagues. Maybe this is an alternative suggestion. Good luck and best regards from The Netherlands.