Deep inlay with Vectric VCarve and SOROTEC BL CNC -- Full process

[@yoannbzh7396]

Super réalisation ! Elle à l'air de bien marcher cette nouvelle CNC !

[@stephanforseilles]

J'en suis assez content, je dois dire. :)

[@Copablanca]

For a minute I thought you had been in Leeuwarden, The Netherlands. We also have such a tower from 1529 and which just like the tower of Pisa is crooked. Please take a look at our beautiful tower :-) Great video/tutorial and thank you for all your videos -tutorials and help for us cnc'ers. Un grand merci beaucoup et salut du Holande.

[@stephanforseilles]

A similiar-looking architecture indeed! Thanks for the feedback.

[@FamilyRoots]

Super réalisation !

[@HaraldHartmann]

@Stephan Forseilles why don't you use the round bit for the handles, too? i would find that more convenient.

[@stephanforseilles]

I could indeed. But it's not very good at removing a lot of material (you can't spin those at 20krpm :) ) and it quickly creates burns.

[@MaxJones-fe7lp]

Great job! Why in the toolpath parameters you select V bit 15 deg but actually you are using engraving tapered ball nose 10 deg bit? Does it work correctly?

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks. Yes it works but I also sometimes use the configuration of an engraving bit with a flat nose.

[@opitk90nico]

Good job, very well!!!!!!!! I have a question, please where buy bit 10° 6mm??? Thank you

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks! I bought it there: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1ce44c4dAwOlXh

[@alializadeh8195]

Thanx

[@wallystoolshed7050]

I watched this video back when you first put it out. I just watched it again. It is a pretty cool project. Just wondering if there were any issues that arose using the long grain board and the end grain inlay. I have watched your videos over and over. I have an end grain cutting board i want to try and put an inlay in, just haven't tried it yet. Thank you for your awesome videos

[@stephanforseilles]

I went to that person's home last eek and she's been using the board since then, washing it with warm water and soap. I still can't feel the inly with my fingers (it could have popped-out) so I guess the test is positive. :)

[@malcolmrandolph4090]

Wonderful. Absolutely brilliant work. I really want to try this technique, but so far, I'm too chicken! ;)

[@stephanforseilles]

GO! :) Check my tutorial, it's not very complex.

[@fatmirkalo9068]

Hi How long does it take to do one pass on the plug? My project says that one pass takes roughly 5hours.Am I doing something wrong? Thank you.

[@stephanforseilles]

Hello. It will typically take 30min to an hour depending on the project. Typical feed/speed for my CNC is 5mm@800mm/sec. Which CNC and feed/speed are you using? If you're talking about the V-bit path, you must also check the stepover. If it's too small, you get a better finish (but you don't car because no-one will even see the bottom) but it takes ages!

[@pettertheland2858]

My i ask why your going over the plug model twice and one with the pocket and one with the Vcarve toolpath?

[@stephanforseilles]

When doing the plug, the Start Depth sets the depth of insertion. But even if the tool has a max cut depth of, say, 3mm, if the start depth is, for example, 9mm, Vcarve will directly plunge to 9mm. So I have to make 2 additional passes with Start Depth 3 and 6mm to avoid cutting too deep at once. It's not easy to explain but you can see it in detail in my tutorial: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIqTq3-saNyWr8U .

[@pettertheland2858]

@@stephanforseilles I understand! I actually did this look at your tutorial on youtube on my last machine. Now on my new machine i can go 9mm without any problem. So i will save som time now! :) Thx for quick answer bud!

[@calebsanz9826]

Hi Stephan, Can you put links to the bits you use? Its hard to read what kind the tapered ball nose is by the pic alone. Great work

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks. Almost all of my bits I buy here: www.cncfraises.fr Except for the 10 degree: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1ce44c4dAwOlXh

[@Ahmad_G-AG]

Very nice. What kind of wood do you use please?

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks. It's beech and wenge.

[@Ahmad_G-AG]

@@stephanforseilles thank you

[@michaeldawes2152]

I really enjoy watching your videos Stephan but I must admit I wince every time I see how deep your toolpath passes are! I stick to 1 or 2mm per pass on my Workbee, am I not being brave enough?

[@stephanforseilles]

With my previous CNC (Euromakers Aureus 3X), which was very similar to an X-Carve, I had to do 1-2mm passes (or 3-4mm but at 150-200mm/min). Now I upgraded to the SOROTEC which is way sturdier and has linear rail guides, so I can be much more agressive, in hard wood I can do 5mm at 1000mm/min. :)

[@michaeldawes2152]

@@stephanforseilles thanks for the info, I am going to upgrade my Workbee to a Killerbee this year so hopefully that will help.

[@nickrooney893]

It looks like you're using a taper ball nose endmill, but in the program you have it set as a flat bottom engraver. Is there a reason for that?

[@stephanforseilles]

I don't have any scientific explanation for that, but in my tests, it gives a better fitting plug that way...

[@darickrc]

@@stephanforseilles What about the angle? Aren't you using a 10 degree bit, but you have is set to 7.2 degrees. Shouldn't it be set to 5 in vcarve?

[@stefanoH7676]

Salut Stephane, J ai vu que tu utilises parfois du Padouk dans tes boards, en extérieur ce bois devient rapidement gris à cause des UV. En intérieur il y a bcp moins d UV et le huilage peut réduire ce phénomène. Est ce que la couleur du Padouk de tes réalisations a évolué avec le temps ?

[@stephanforseilles]

Selon ce que j'ai pu expérimenter, si is est bien huilé, il ne change pas vraiment de couleur. Mais l'huile le 'fonce' déjà pas mal.

[@stefanoH7676]

@@stephanforseilles merci ! J ai mis des échantillons bruts et huilés dans ma cuisine, a l extérieur et la cave pour comparer l évolution de la teinte avec le temps. Effectivement il fonce bcp avec huilage et perds malheureusement sa teinte rouge si belle au naturel. Thx

[@gthmcty111]

Excellent!!!

[@pakal-org]

Vu que la tour semble symétrique, tu n'aurais pas gagner du temps a ne dessiné qu'une moitié et faire un miroir ? Tu aurais pas un coté plus de travers dans la 2eme section à partir du bas :)

[@stephanforseilles]

C'est mon côté enfantin: j'ai commencé par empiler des blocs. :D Pour tout le reste (fenêtres, portes) j'ai effectivement fait 1/2 + miroir.

[@Nilremquercus]

Salut, J'utilise la même huile, après j'ai eu un bon prof :p, par contre j'aurai aimé en trouver en conditionnement de 5 ou 10 litres...si tu as une idée ;) Merci pour le partage :)

[@stephanforseilles]

J'ai acheté celle-là sur Amazon mais elle n'est plus dispo. Pas facile à trouver!

[@Nilremquercus]

@@stephanforseilles pareil essaie les frères nordin 😊

[@bw162]

Nice job but it is best not to mix end grain and long grain in glue ups including inlays.

[@stephanforseilles]

Thanks. I agree but given the price of wood atm, I do with what blanks I have at hand. ;)