Defender footwell door pillar and upper bulkhead repair Pt 2

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If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
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[@geraldswain3259]

Mike I had 40yrs of this ,the words still ring in my ears "It's got a little bit of surface rust " 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yeap - wish I had a pound for every time I hear that!

[@MAMDAVEM]

Excellent video series. I know this is a job you didn't want to do Mike but I suspect a lot of folk like me are glad you did

[@BritannicaRestorations]

And that is part of the reason I did it, as there are a few tricks that maybe handy for you guys Mike

[@RicktheRecorder]

Excellent. Camera angle!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks!

[@dean-gm1lg]

Best to cover windscreen when grinding and welding the sparks weaken them as well as pitting them

[@lukepower8777]

Great video! I used a full vent repair panel to fix mine and every feature on it was wrong. I had to cut it into six pieces to get it to "fit". Even the vent hinges had to be moved.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Luke - who's make of panel did you fit for the record? Mike

[@lukepower8777]

Was a britpart.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks Luke - good to know - I have not fitted one yet Mike

[@finrambo3594]

Thanks, im doing the same job and that's just changed my plans. You would think after all those years of production they would have sorted out the corroding pillars and footwells, surely they could run a rain channel out the side.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Built cheap for maximum profit - not a bit of factory rustproofing

[@richardbroom4324]

But this is after 20years. Most modern cars are scrap long before that

[@Vincent-px5sn]

Hi Mike, how about rustproofing underneath the new corners? I use fertan rust converter on my '85 110 v8 csw. Works like a dream because it penetrates deeper into the metal when exposed to water. Cheers from Holland!

[@bigm383]

A mate of mine is a surgeon. He reckons you can never un-make an incision!

[@bobbd6543]

Hi cracking vids really enjoy them. Is there a part 3 I cant find it. Thanks

[@danielrayment9593]

Great video! do you know what size the bracing is that you refer to in the this video? Currently restoring a bulkhead (or lack there of) and can seem to find these parts anywhere. All thats available is the external skin replacements, not the internal tube/square for structural support. Thanks in advance

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Let me check

[@Harrybowles1969]

Measure twice cut once a good rule for joiners, car restorers and surgeons

[@swiftnick3]

Galvanising the new parts is definitely a good idea! Why didn't Land Rover do this in the Factory? Is it too expensive to do or did they just want us to keep buying new Defenders?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Both reasons I believe Mike

[@temsbab1565]

Both

[@yorkylandyman7514]

What's your opinion on galvanised bulkheads Mike?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have never seen a used one straight one yet - they seem to warp and the zinc cannot get into the very top where the windscreen mounting is Not sure about these new replacement bulkheads = not seen one

[@yorkylandyman7514]

Cheers

[@SiCrewe]

I keep thinking that if I ever had a rotten Defender bulkhead, I'd be tempted to just make the whole bloody thing out of 3mm plate. Less dramatically, if I was doing a repair like that, I think I'd probably have tack-welded some lengths of 1" angle-iron to convenient places to support the structure and stop anything moving once the rotten metal's cut away.

[@mrbarman100]

Hi Mike, excellent video. One question, what bolts did you release to insert the wooden spacer (19:29) or did you just use a pry bar to force enough space to work?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I took the bolts from the inside which hold the bracket or hinge on to the bulkhead/windscreen frame

[@mrbarman100]

​@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks for the quick response, much appreciated. I have both screen hinges removed but it seems reluctant to budge. I'm hesitant about using too much force to prise it up.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You may have to remove the bolts holding the door pillar on to the roof (you didn't say which model you had)

[@mrbarman100]

Thanks Mike, the extra bolts removed gave me additional clearance but, since I will need to replace the screen to bulkhead seal, I've now removed nearly all the roof bolts. I can't believe how much I've had to dismantle to do a seemingly simple job. Next time I think I'll ship the bloody thing over to you! The vehicle is a 30 year old Defender 90 V8. It started life as a Land Rover demonstrator with only one other owner from new and has pretty much every extra that was available at that time. Sadly, the list of extras didn't include rustproofing, but, since it only has 50k miles on the clock, I reckon it's a worthwhile restoration project, assuming I live long enough to actually finish it. Thanks again for your help, it's much appreciated.

[@mrbarman100]

Hi Mike, Thanks to your assistance I've successfully replaced both bulkhead corners and I'm now moving on to the footwells. I'm interested to know whether you welded yours in with seam welds plus sealant or spot welds plus sealant. My originals look like they were spot welded. Thanks. Bob

[@tonypacke6954]

This looks a real nightmare job. I hope you have a defibrillator in the workshop as you may have to use it on the customer when he asks you what the total bill is!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Cannot put the hours in to do this type of work any more - just does not pay Mike

[@mrcvry]

You have to or is it a hobby?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It's a customers job - I would never buy a vehicle that rusty

[@mrcvry]

I mean your work. Your are not Land Rover Aid and doing everyone a favor. If it is your Job, you have to add up every minute (minus youtube ;). Would that body work not be an awesome job because you could have a long vacation at the beach after finishing it? 🍸🌴😎 Here Land Rover (BMW) has a higher hour rate than Porsche but without Porsches quality! (Last time I have checked it was around C$185/h for body work. C$230 for a paint job.)

[@mrcvry]

Dr Reality Asked the dealer what it would cost to repair a rusty door. He said that it is better to scrap the car and buy a new one. A new door (or was ittwo?) would cost €10000. A used Defender was much cheaper. (If you order a new door yourself it is (I think) about €300.) So I guess that Mikes work would be worth a new Porsche. 😉

[@MS940]

Interesting video, but little too much talking,10 min before first cut. Defender has very ancient and poor design on the bodywork when even this new vehicles have to be seriously welded. I have early 80's japanese 4wd. No need to weld on the sills or the pillar bottom. Welding mainly on the wheel arches and footwells.

[@Yaabbly]

lovely view of your back but not much of the actual work area, though this is set off by plenty of patter to make up for the minimal action.

[@kirkgallacher9144]

Measure twice cut once, then get yourself some lighting! Geezer.

[@kirkgallacher9144]

We can't see cause it's dark, dude. Get some lights. Or start a fire, that'll work.

[@Bluepilchard]

Look twice before buying a landy and then walkaway to the nearest Toyota Hilux dealer and get on with your life