Demo on the Hairspray Chipping Technique

Hey guys, this video is meant to be just a quick tutorial on HS chipping. Soon I'll be bringing you some full-length weathering tutorials (just like the big StuG video) that feature this technique on armour subjects. These will be a WWII German halftrack, a modern Soviet BMP-1, and another winter whitewashed StuG III.
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DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated.

[@allanstott6999]

I'm about to start painting an ambush camo theme on a Tiger II and I would like to give this a try. Is there a way to get the 3d chipping effect at the same time? I'm thinking red primer, hairspray, dark yellow and chip, then add the camo making a note of where the chips are under the green or redbrown, and then chipping in the same area but a little wider so as to leave the yellow edge as well as the primer in the middle of the chip. Am I over thinking it?

[@Panzermeister36]

I am actually doing exactly what you're saying right now on my current project. If you watch my last bench update I put up a couple of days ago, then I show that project a little bit. However, my idea was slightly different as I went for a look of the vehicle having been delivered to the unit in just the basic yellow, then having been used, and then the green camo being applied afterwards. So some areas of frequent use have the chipping of the green and also the yellow, but some areas have chipping of the base yellow but then the green camo isn't very worn down, or vice versa. But you can do it as you said too, that will work the same way, you just chip it in the same areas to expose all the layers of camouflage colour. Now for my tank, I did as you said. Applied the red coat, then hairspray, then the yellow, then I chipped it. Then I sealed it with matte varnish, then applied more hairspray, and then applied the green camo colour, and then chipped that. For example, another KZbin modeller Sergio Solo did it here too in his tutorial which I recommend watching: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIGVdJ97iKZ2orc Hopefully that helps. I'm hoping my tutorial on the tank I mentioned will be up in the coming weeks.

[@Panzermeister36]

Hey guys, this video is meant to be just a quick tutorial on HS chipping. Soon I'll be bringing you some full-length weathering tutorials (just like the big StuG video) that feature this technique on armour subjects. These will be a WWII German halftrack, a modern Soviet BMP-1, and another winter whitewashed StuG III. A few things to note about this video: I use my finger to wipe off bits of paint that chipped off but that are still kind of stuck on the model, or to clean up chipping on edges. I don't recommend you do this on the actual flat surfaces since you might "chip" off a huge section with just a swipe of your finger. So be careful doing that...and be gentle. Also, every time you see me moving my brush away and then dabbing in onto the paper towel, I just was getting the brush wet again in my cup of water. Do that every minute or so, but not too often as too much water can make the chipping occur too easily and it can get out of hand pretty quick.

[@Spectre_WoT]

@Panzermeister36 thanks for all the great tips. I'm in Germany and I really like all your perspective on weathering. I can't wait for the next vid.

[@ArmourEmpire]

Very competent video Evan. Thanks for sharing mate.

[@johnnyb7122]

Great video! Looking forward to the final Gundam reveal!

[@misplacedmojo3643]

Well done! Looking forward to the upcoming tutorials!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thanks Chris!

[@michaelg.1786]

Thanks for the detailed techniques of chipping!

[@jjab99]

Great video and a very useful technique for just about any kind of modelling. I keep saying that I should start doing some weathering and maybe this is where I should start? Many thanks for sharing and showing us this very useful video. Have fun with your next build, Joe

[@pedrot.2964]

Very easy to understand quick tutorial, keep it up please ...

[@BrettG64]

Great video and nice airbrush! I really love this technique. Very effective and well within the skills of any modeller.

[@HinterlandCustoms]

Thanks for sharing, the results are great!

[@ColonelRebScaleModels]

Great tutorial, Evan, would love to see you finish the rest of the Gundam...LoL...But seriously, I have never tried the hairspray method, but this video has me wanting to try on a Gundam...loved the effect...

[@leespender4774]

Great quick demo keep up the good work

[@wwiiinplastic4712]

I'm glad you mentioned that actual tanks don't get as heavily chipped as is usually depicted. I'm tired of seeing tanks so beat up they look like they've been fighting for a decade with no maintenance. Or rust that resembles something that's been at the bottom of Truk Lagoon. I like the ease of use of this technique, but you certainly have to be careful not to accidentally take off chunks of paint that ruin the effect. Other than starting over, is there any way to repair a spot that lost too much second coat?

[@Panzermeister36]

You could just apply a little more HS there and more of the top colour, and then chip at that. The chips will expose either the previous layer of top colour, or the chipping colour unerneath, so that should give you fewer chippy areas of that bottom colour. I also agree with what you said up there about chipping on tanks. Photos of the real thing show pretty much no chipping.

[@HarryHoudiniModels]

Nice video on your chipping technique and some great tips there Evan.. what time frame do you leave between primer and hairspray, then hairspray and acrylic coat, then how soon after the acrylic coat do you start your chips?

[@KentsPaintShack]

Learnt something new today thxs heaps

[@HamilkarBarkasScaleModelling]

very cool demo :)

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you Michael!

[@moxopal5681]

Does it work on acrylics? Great job!

[@Mcbellonthebeat]

Will this work if the layer that is to be chipped is sprayed with tamiya spray paint instead of an airbrush?

[@winotosan6776]

Correct me if im wrong . Primer - main light color (lacquer)-hair spray-main color (lacquer) -chipping with brush (wTer)

[@Panzermeister36]

+Winoto San I would not use lacquer for the main colour, as it can be too durable to chip. Use acrylics for that colour, and lacquers for the primer colour.

[@winotosan6776]

Thanks for your help, man. I will subs. :))

[@LAKEKING360]

Should enamel or acrylic paint be used for this method? Love the videos.

[@NHguitar57]

using Tresemme out of the pump bottles and via air brush , has seemed to work better for me .

[@Panzermeister36]

That's a good idea, I should have mentioned how you can decant the hairspray. I'll do that next time

[@bagelbro1824]

can you do a top coat after chipping to secure everything?

[@chaslester221]

What compressor are you using? It seems very quiet.

[@errarehumanumest3810]

QUESTION I am using enamel paint since acrylics seem not to stick to the plastic of my model kits. Using enamel paints for the silver base coating and later for the camouflage, how would the hairspray method be done in this case?

[@Panzermeister36]

I don't think you can chip this way with enamels. Water won't penetrate them very well so it'll be hard for the water to get in and dissolve the hairspray.

[@user-vy7er1iq3r]

Хорошая работа

[@Panzermeister36]

спасибо

[@Rzymek85]

How long does this effect remain active? I mean how long till it dries and no longer chipps? Great video btw!

[@Panzermeister36]

If you use water to thin the paint for airbrushing, apparently you can reactivate it months later.

[@MAN394631]

Hairspray technic can be succesfull or a totally desaster, coz the chips have to be in scale, thats the art, many modelers dont making chips but flakes, and flakes are not in scale, ok perhaps on a exhaust of a tank, but normally we want create really small chips, and that is the challenge.

[@DNModels]

What's the airbrush there?

[@Panzermeister36]

Badger 105 Patriot

[@kpan500]

How long should the paint dry before you start to chip? Meaning can the paint get too hard to chip.

[@Panzermeister36]

Basically just once the paint has dried I do it right away. So maybe 5 to 10 minutes for Tamiya paint, but other paints might take longer to dry. But this is not really an issue unless it's a lacquer baser paint.

[@P4P5]

I tried this in the last few days. How do you prevent larger chips from happening. I used very little water, started scraping and "bigger" chunks of paint just came off... Would it help if i apply matte varnish over the paint before i apply hairspray? I didn't do it on the actual model though, just on some parts from previous model that were left on the sprue. Maybe the problem is that i am using lacquer thinner?

[@Panzermeister36]

+AP the problem is that you applied the hairspray too heavily. You get bigger chips when there is too much HS/chipping medium since it just starts to flake off instead of chipping nicely. Try just two thin applications. Alternatively, you might have been using a bad paint for chipping, though if you were thinning it with lacquer thinner I doubt it was a bad paint. But just in case, what paint were you using for the top coat?

[@P4P5]

@@Panzermeister36 I used Tamiya paints. All new bought in the last few months.

[@Panzermeister36]

Then try less hairspray. You only need a very thin misting or two over the tank. Don't flood it.

[@lukefergusson9473]

I tried this on Tuesday there and some of the top coat began to crack have you experienced this doing hairspray chipping?

[@Panzermeister36]

You were probably applying too much water or too much hairspray

[@stovallholmes3060]

so, how long after I add the final coat o top of the hairspray should I start chipping? do I wait til the final coat of paint is completely dry?

[@Panzermeister36]

I just wait until it's dry to the touch. So maybe 10 minutes at most.

[@stovallholmes3060]

thanks man

[@tylergreen4383]

Great video can you do this with tamiya ts spraypaint?

[@Panzermeister36]

Possibly, if the coat if paint is thin enough and you should try to chip it within about 10 minutes so it doesn't have time to fully cure. Do a test run on a spare kit part first to see if it will work alright.

[@johncochran5509]

@@Panzermeister36 I tried this with Tamiya spay paint (on a spare bit of plastic), and it does not work. Thanks for all the tutorials. They're a big help.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you for letting me know. It's tough to spray a thin coat with a can, and those paints are also super tough so they're going to be doubly hard to chip.

[@johncochran5509]

Panzermeister36 I’m talking myself into getting an airbrush. Only thing I need to figure out is the ventilation. If you haven’t done this, it might be worth a video on setting up an in-home airbrush work area. Maybe I’m over-thinking it.

[@johncochran5509]

@@Panzermeister36 Many thanks for the tips on Afrika Korps coloring and weathering (and your weathering tips in other videos). Really helped me step up my game, even without the hairspray-chipping.

[@raseli4066]

can I us oil paint insted of an airbrush! ?

[@Panzermeister36]

I'm pretty sure this effect only really works with acrylic paints, but it could work with oils...

[@raseli4066]

Ill try in the future. sumtime

[@Filiplego1]

Do I need to use an airbrush? Can I use a basic paintbrush for everything? For base coat and the layer to be chipped.

[@mgebhards498]

Weather...weather...weather. usually too much, never subtle. Goop and glop, mud and grime. where did all that fine detail go. Anyone who has ever been in the military would know that real military vehicles are never allowed to reach such a state of disrepair. Painting and scrubbing, are a way of life, in the military, that occupies a soldier, marine, or sailor's time when he has nothing else to do. Pre-shadowing, I have seen a lot of aircraft, and have yet to see one that has the shadowed panel lines. Model for realism is the name of the game. Save the fantasy for fantasy figures and fantasy models. A softly applied oil streak or exhaust staining I can accept. Grossly overdone "weathering" is never seen in the real world. It may be OK for a diorama, but a display model should show all the details without obscuring it with overdone weathering. Just my opinion. As a veteran, I do know what I'm talking about.

[@MongooseDoggie]

Take a look at old WWII whitewashed tanks. They are pretty nasty

[@Panzermeister36]

This is a Gundam. It's a 20 meter tall anime space robot that punches other anime space robots. I wasn't exactly going for the most realistic approach as the subject itself is not realistic.

[@lovecchio420]

You are right and wrong IMO. In a perfect world you are correct, but for display sometimes you need to make it look a little exaggerated so it stands out from 3 feet away.

[@maxchastain0]

Why do you speak so slowly?

[@Panzermeister36]

Plenty of people say I speak too quickly too. A lot of my viewers are from Europe and don't speak English as their first language. I don't want them to be left behind.