Demystifying Singer's Family of Vibrating Shuttles: VS1, VS2, VS3, 27, 28, 127, 128

[@nmd1211]

This is by far one of the most informative vids on vibrating shuttle machines. I have a very nice "The Free No. 5" which is based on the Singer 27. It is really a joy to use. You video about parts is especially informative - and now I am curious about the spare shuttle I bought years ago - I think I need to measure it. The Free No. 5 has a sort of lever near the pointed end of the race to push down so you can pop the shuttle out. It also has a felt pad to add oil to it (if I recall correctly) much like the oil felt in my Singer 66-1. I think the most interesting treadle I have seen is the Red Eye 66 treadle that also has a hand crank attached to it. Thanks, Ollie, for such a great video.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for reaching out and letting me know you liked it. I appreciate it! And you've made my day! I must admit I've never seen a Free up close, but have heard they are fantastic machines. Thanks for commenting and for watching! 😊

[@ronalddaub5008]

There are different lengths of barbell bobbins.

[@markcaffee912]

Q0😅

[@colvinator1611]

Very helpful video. No music ! No speed ups ! Just calm , clear explanation, and demonstration. Thanks very much indeed. I'm just starting out in the ' older singer ' hobby.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@billminckler6550]

Superbly rich in information and detail! Thank you! 👏❤️👏

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@walteraddie7925]

I too love the VS machines. I have over 100 of them in various brands and models. Shuttles can be a source of frustration as you mentioned!

[@SimplyStitchy]

Totally agree! Thanks for watching! 🙂

[@galerae947]

My piecing machine is a 128. Love the little darling, but they do vibrate a bit more, at low speeds, than the rotary machines. Otherwise, no issues with my electrified version.

[@vonibrown923]

None of the singer manual with the VS1 onwards tell you about an oil wick for the machine.. When you slide the front plate down you will see a small round hole in the base.. If the wick is missing which your is.. find a thick absorbing cotton cord ( candle wick) to fit in there, it needs to be long enough to lubricator ( seeing machine oil required for to cotton wick) the slide & to also the swing bar with the shuttle in place.. I found this by accident when I bought an antique 1880’s hand crank ( in this case it was a German shuttle model which still had the oil wick in place).. I also have multiple antique German shuttle sewing machines in the transverse & VS1 type sliding front/ back plates ( the German machine also have the ability on some models to do reverse stitching) Veritas hand crank , Gritzner both treadle ( parlour cabinet era up to 1925 & a hand crank with a space to facilitate fitting a Singer reproduction hand crank to it - Gritzner did have hand crank models but as yet I have not been able to acquire one ( or the seller was price gouging for that machine) just a few of the sewing machine I have in my collection.. 127K, 99K all three styles to 1950’s, 319K in black, 201K in treadle parlour cabinet & bentwood case but are knee lever system.. All of my antique sewing machine Veritas, Pfaff K, Frister & Rossman, Hengstenberg & Anker, Wards Bros, Vickers, & more I have been able to use a standard 15x1 sewing needle - ( the 1885 transverse Wertheim is the exception as it require a 16x1 but with a little needle adjustment I got her to sew - sadly no table base for the Wertheim which would have fitted into the base but could also be used as a portable machine ( mine is minus the coffin top lid).. My sewing machine collection started as an 8/10 year old whom stopped a child trashing her great grandmother toy Casaige sewing machine in the gravel driveway & the child mother gifted me the toy machine ( sadly my brat brother tinkered with it & she stopped seeing & I have only just recent had repairs done but need to find the correct needle to see if she chain stitch’s anymore.. My last machine will be to find a working chain stitch machine.. I have just about run out of wall/shelf to buy anymore of the adult size sewing machines ( about 20 machines I have now) Unless I start on the children size antique sewing machines.. which I have x 2 now.. 1930’s Casige & one labeled” Baby decal named” on a wood base) lol 😂

[@SimplyStitchy]

That's a lot of machines! They are a fascinating, and in some cases, a working piece of history. The workmanship that went into building them is just awesome, isn't it? Thanks so much for watching. 🙂

[@meganmills6545]

I knew about the oil will for the shuttle race but it took me some time to find and clear the "pinhole" that goes through from near the bottom of where the felt wick is pushed in to the shuttle race itself. All my VS machines so far have had that hole clogged up and it's really awkward to get to. It makes a big difference once you do though so was definitely worth it. I'm thinking of getting a dental tool to help.

[@hawkinscsa]

I thoroughly enjoyed this video. ❤❤ Thank You!

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching! 🙂

[@user-st4xj6um6v]

Это самое лучшее и познавательно видео по швейные машинам. Имея в личной коллекции 16 машин, в рабочем состоянии. Только сейчас научился грамотно различать особенности каждой конструкции. Большое спасибо за проделанной труд.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome. Thanks for watching 🙂

[@engelbob8402]

Very helpful info for me with my recently acquired VS2. These old machines are cool. Your videos are well done.

[@SimplyStitchy]

Thank you! I'm glad the info was useful. Congratulations on finding a VS2. They are awesome! Thanks for watching! 🙂

[@CCTippers]

That was some brilliant information, that was so useful!. I’ve been getting to know a 1950, 201k machine, made my very first “completed” 😁 patchwork quilt for my first grandchild, she’s 1 tomorrow 🎉, it was great fun and the machine sewed perfect, I know they are good, but wow!! What a Singer! . A big ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ from me for your excellent vid.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! And a very Happy Birthday to your grandchild! The 201 is an awesome machine. Have fun getting to know it. Thanks so much for watching and for commenting 🙂

[@carmencolon3520]

I have walked away from some vintage sewing machine because of missing parts. Learning to paid attention to details during the purchase process .

[@Lisawik]

Super helpful! Thank you!

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@shelliecarlson7015]

Thanks. Had been trying to figure this out. 🤔 You're the best.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching 😊

[@ramloganfracic5761]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world. Very interesting. Blessings. Viewing from the French island St Martin in the Caribbean.I have a small collection of antique ,vintage and modern machines .

[@lorenzm.worden1500]

Excellent presentation. Very understandable exploration of a complex element in Singer machines.

[@SimplyStitchy]

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching! 🙂

[@baire702]

I really like your videos. Esp all the useful info you share. I learned a few things that make 28s and 128s different. While watching this video, i kept looking up at my vs1/vs2 machine from 1887. I have bern told that she has properties from both vs1 and vs2. You know her when you see her because she has a black painted faceplate and a nut on top right behind the spool pin. Thank you for your wonderful videos!

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching and for commenting! 🙂

[@nikkixtm6433]

Thank you so much for this very informative video. Just purchased a granny (or great granny treadle machine fiddle base made c.1873 without shuttle & will now examine closely the features to ensure correct purchase! Thanks for links Brilliant video - well done 👏

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching 😊

[@ianhumphries6487]

very nice a job to find a singer 30! they are around,but very very rare

[@GreenPumpkin767]

Such great information. Thank you so much for going through the differences. With your help I was able to identify my old rusted, no decals sewing machine as a VS1. You just made my day.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! It's made my day too! A VS1... that's awesome! 😀 Thanks for watching!

[@ronalddaub5008]

I have studded vs compared to rotary's and the drop in bobbin machines vs machines are really cool even the Minnesota and the monarch they're all slightly different it's interesting I've got about 30

[@jet8485]

Oh this was so helpful! Thankyou so much. I inherited a Singer from my grandmother. You confirmed it is a 28 I would love to learn how to sew with this machine. Do you have video's that show how to? Or do you know where I can find a video that teaches how to? And do you know where I can find new or other needles for the 28 machine? That would be so helpful. Thankyou again. So glad I found this video 🙂🍀👌🏻

[@SimplyStitchy]

The Singer 128 takes standard Class 15 sized needles. You can get them from anywhere that sells sewing machine needles. You're looking for either Schmetz or Organ and make sure it says 130/705H on the package. Universal needles are great for starting out as they will sew any fabric. I think my hat video from way back in 2021 shows how to sew with a 128 which is essentially the same machine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/moG5kKuqbZaJmrssi=6LV4pRg-EojxsFvQ you can also check out my Singer 28/128 playlist here: kzbin.info/aero/PLv_H1aiWesm7-uwJg_nWfKnMuFIRQeidH Enjoy sewing with your 28. Let me know how you get on! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@jet8485]

@@SimplyStitchy thankyou so much! 🍀

[@ronalddaub9740]

I own 2 . They are the simplest Machines to work on. And use .in my opinion.

[@carmencolon3520]

Very interesting information that I need to pay attention with the machine in front of me. Trying to clean a Featherweight and free a National Rotary . Will review again my handcrank 27. 😅Thanks.

[@SimplyStitchy]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@baire702]

I love your rooster!

[@SimplyStitchy]

Lol! He likes to be heard that's for sure 😆

[@annecain3301]

An absolutely brilliant video. Extremely informative and a pleasure to watch and learn. Thank you.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching 😀

[@eh1702]

THANK YOU! I bought a hand-crank singer from a guy who took over a tailor-alteration shop at the end of my street. It has probably never travelled more than the couple of miles from where it was made. It seemed the previous owners had just never thrown old machines out, he had at least a century of them, some from the 1970s still “fitted in” in the front shop. He showed me how it stitched, although the tension was off. Then at home I stupidly took out the old spool without looking closely at it. Although I managed to wind a new spool, I couldn’t get the shuttle working properly again. Life intervened and it sat there for a year. From YOUR videos I’ve learned - it’s a 27 - What new needles to get - how to thread from the spool out through the shuttle case - my worst bugbear! - how to alter the tension there, with the tiny screw in the shuttle case. - how to release the “top” tension. - how to alter stitch length - which I didn’t even know my machine could do! Hand crank sewing is so peaceful and relaxing. Thanks again!

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Glad I could help! Just between you and me... shuttle cases drive me loopy too but the stitch quality from Grandma, my 27, makes up for the hassle! Thanks for watching 😉

[@carolinepitzer]

Thanks so much for the insight!

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching 😀

[@msgt1942]

WOW AWESOME VIDEO!!!!! THANK YOU.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@artransue]

Are there later 27s that have the bobbin winder at the top? I have a 1910 treadle that based on the serial number says it's a model 27 but has the winder at the top and auto tension release. It also has the Sphinx decals .

[@SimplyStitchy]

I haven't seen any but... It's Singer. I wouldn't be surprised to find there are 27s out there with a high bobbin winder. Particularly as the 3/4 version, the 28, has been known to have either a low winder or a high winder. It could also be a 127. Singer's database of serial numbers isn't always accurate when it comes to model numbers. 1910 is the date the serial number would have been allocated to a batch of sewing machines... in this case probably 27s. But that doesn't mean the machine heads ended up being 27s. 1910/1912 was the crossover point to the new 127 machines. Then again, it could be a factory reburbished 27. Best way to tell - check the bobbin area. If there is a bobbin quick release button - it's a 127. 🙂

[@artransue]

@@SimplyStitchy yeah I realized that I was off by a digit when searching. Turns out it is a 127 from 1917. Which im happy with because I at least have more options for powering it. I thought inwas going to be limited to finding a treadle base.

[@scottsews]

What a great video! And you posted it at a time a shuttle machine has come into my possession! A relative gave me a 27 which belonged to another relative I never met (they died before I was born) as I'm a 15 user shuttles aren't my thing, but I would like to use it. This 27 has its shuttle but due to age, use and a bit of rust it's not longer usable so I need a new one. I see loads of reproduction ones on eBay but I didn't know about the range of shuttle designs so thanks for educating me!

[@SimplyStitchy]

You might be able to bring that shuttle case back to life. Try soaking it in a rust remover. Or a salt and vinegar bath. Pinch of salt, enough undiluted distilled white vinegar to cover the shuttle. Leave it to soak in a plastic pot for a couple of hours. Then rinse the shuttle in a small pot of warm water with a teaspoon of baking soda. Use some very fine wire wool or a toothbrush to rub away the surface rust. You'll have divots in the metal but it should be usable. And if it's as bad as it sounds, it's worth a try.

[@scottsews]

@@SimplyStitchy 🤗❤️ Thanks for the tip I'll give it go, I think you've found a topic for another video! How to restore a Vintage sewing machine! 😁

[@carmencolon3520]

@@scottsews Yes, please give the machine a bit of TLC. You be glad you did it. There's so much to learn is very easy to bring them back running. Just take your time and enjoy a new skill .

[@RKParK1]

Can you share the exact mm dimensions for the different bobbins? I don’t have one to measure. Also, I see a website that correlates Model by Serial Number and according to my serial number, I have a 27 from 1902-3 period. Is that not reliable information? ISMACS is the websites.

[@SimplyStitchy]

Unfortunately, I can only share the mm dimensions for the bobbins I have. If you check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zn68iXegpq-Haassi=Xwv48wXN4sI_c9QQ it shows the size differences between modern long bobbins and originals. Or at least, the originals that fit my Singer 27 from 1912. Yours might be different. (Time stamp 3:47 if you want to skip ahead). ISMACS is totally trustworthy as its the International Sewing Machine Collectors Society. However, their database of Singer serial numbers is actually Singer's. The database is notorious for not always being accurate when it comes to model numbers. That's why it's important to know what the machines look like so you can tell if the serial number is giving you the right model.

[@taylortomblin]

Hello! I can’t remember where I read this, but the model 27 weighs 27 pounds and that’s why it’s named that. Mind, I haven’t tried pulling my 27 out of its table to test this, but it seems plausible!

[@SimplyStitchy]

As it's Singer, I really wouldn't be surprised if that turns out to be true! Thanks for watching 😆

[@mry9195]

I have a singer 1919 model 127 which accessories can I use

[@SimplyStitchy]

The great thing about Singer is the accessories are pretty much interchangeable. You just need to know what type of shank (the bit where the presser foot attaches) your machine has. The Singer 127 is a low shank machine. It can take vintage accessories designed for low shank... and also some modern accessories designed for low shank machines. I used a modern walking foot on Grandma, my Singer 27 in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nniQpaVnqdWJmLs Thanks for watching! 🙂

[@baire702]

The dolly you showed looks like a 128 to me.

[@SimplyStitchy]

Yes it is!

[@alsinakiria]

I am just about to finish fixing my grandmother's machine. A 27. It would be done, but the belt I bought is too small.

[@SimplyStitchy]

Do you mean the treadle belt? I thought they were all around 72 inches long. there is supposed to be a slight gap when you join the two ends together. It should be just big enough to allow room for the metal hook to secure them and lay flat at the same time. Try this link: amzn.to/3X2ipgm

[@alsinakiria]

@@SimplyStitchy yup. The treadle belt I bought is too short. Have to wait for the new one I ordered

[@SimplyStitchy]

@@alsinakiria How annoying. Hopefully, the new one will fit OK and you can get up and running. It's a real pain when parts don't work out.

[@user-kq1qs8su5d]

I have by all the info in the video a model 28. However the motor set seems to be from a 15-8 while the serial number indicates it was made in 1884 [6466010]. Likely the motor set was added later but any way to reconcile the date issue?

[@SimplyStitchy]

Kind of hard to say without seeing your machine. Is it definitely a Singer? Are any of the digits in the serial number hard to read?

[@user-kq1qs8su5d]

@@SimplyStitchyYes definitely a singer with vibrating shuttle w/o release button, manual tension release tab and high bobbin winder. No ss numbers are obviously missing. Sorry can't post any pics.

[@SimplyStitchy]

OK... I'm giving it my best guess here.... I could be totally wrong... but it could possibly be a Singer 39. Very similar to the 28. They were made in the US but for export only. They are usually found in Scandinavian countries. Dates range from around 1885 to 1910 give or take a few years either side. I'm not sure if there is any info on the ISMACS site yet but I know they are planning to add some. It might be worth keeping an eye open. Fingers crossed it's a 39...

[@angelafoxmusic7265]

Marvellous! Thankyou so much. You make it very clear. I'm wondering, if the bobbin cover says patented 1886, does that mean my machine is a VS2 or a 27?

[@SimplyStitchy]

The patent on the bobbin cover refers to the design of the bobbin cover. It would have been used on both the VS2 and the 27. As well as the VS3, 128, 127 and 28. To work out if you have a VS2 or a 27 you need to look at the base of the machine. If it has a rectangular base, it's more likely to be a 27. Although you'd need to check the serial number to make sure. The serial number is at the base of the pillar. I have a video on how to check serial numbers here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqjTc6BtirStbKs

[@Alobster1]

The vs2 should have a fiddle shaped base

[@GIH-Berlin-Bespoke-Suits]

I think you are wrong, the 27 shuttle is shorter than the 128. The shuttle of the 128 didn’t fit in my 27 it was too long 1/16. Can you check and fix your video, if I am right? It could also be that the shuttle of the 127 does not fit into a 27. Since you have alle the machines at home, you could produce another video about the different shuttles.

[@SimplyStitchy]

If you check out the video again from timestamp 17:44, you'll hear me say that there are several different shuttle cases and bobbin combinations out there. That's way I always say - make sure the bobbin case and bobbin are with the machine before you buy it. Otherwise you'll struggle to find the right combination for that particular model. The two shuttle cases I use to demonstrate that point are from my Singer 27 from 1900 and one of my Singer 128s from the 1920s. There is a distinct size difference. Not only because they are different models, but they were made in different years. Singer updated shuttle cases in or around 1912... so later shuttle cases from 27s or 127s are probably not going to fit earlier models in the Vibrating Shuttle family of machines. There's no guarantee a shuttle case from after 1912 will fit all model 27s either. It depends on the machine. It is very possible that in your case, your 27 shuttle can be shorter than your 128 shuttle... because that's the nature of Singer Shuttles and backs up the point I was making even further. Thanks for watching.

[@msgt1942]

can an 1892 be a vs2 i have a singer number 11126431 which dates it to 1892 but the vs2 stopped in 1891. but mine looks EXACTLY LIKE THE 1891 VS2. it has a kidney shape cast iron/metal kidney shape cover not an aluminum/meta pear shape cover and mine is a fiddle base but the sites all say 1891 was the cut off but mine looks like a vs2 more than a 27 is it possible i have a late production vs2 or an early fiddle model 27????

[@SimplyStitchy]

Without looking at it I can't say. Although... it's Singer... anything is possible. However, the date given for the serial numbers is the date the number was allocated to the machine batch - not the date the machine was made. Having said that, the charts aren't always accurate. While it might say 1892, it could have been 1891. Dating and identifying Singers isn't an exact science. The one thing I can say based on your comment... as far as I am aware - 27s were never fiddle bases. Have you checked with ISMACS? Join the Digest over on their website - what the folks over at ISMACS.net don't know about antique sewing machines isn't worth knowing. They are that good!

[@user-xo8qm3hj7q]

Aliexpress has shuttles with 10 bobbins cheap.

[@SimplyStitchy]

Good to know!

[@mamiesews123]

Thanks!😂

[@SimplyStitchy]

You're welcome 😀 Thanks for watching.

[@kerrynseymour2383]

Im still trying to work out if mine is a 27vs3 or 28? As the throat space is the same across the series. 1892 hand cranked and bobbin bottom.

[@SimplyStitchy]

I'm going to guess that it's a rectangle base? Neither the 27 nor the 28 had fiddle bases. VS3 had a fiddle base until 1893 (ish) So that narrows it down to 27 or 28. If you take a look at the thumbnail for this video, the machine at the back with the red base is a 27 handcrank. The others are 28s and 128s. Ignoring the base, the 27 stands taller than the others. It has a more slender arm. While the others are stubby. If you would like a clearer picture, I can upload one of the 27 and 28 side by side. I can put it on my community tab for you. Let me know if you'd like me to do that. Thanks for watching! 🙂

[@carmencolon3520]

Just got me a model 27 serial # K599981 (1903) that need a lot of TLC to the point of rust removal . Didn't knew about the different VS #. My is a model 27 is there any VS# on it. It's a treadle machine but no cabinet. Thanks for mentioning regarding the cabinet pedal. Does this one will need a two feet or one foot cabinet treadle? Well I am exited to start the restoration. Will check the links since I may need to parts at least.

[@SimplyStitchy]

No #VS but the 27s do have numbers to identify what kind of 27 they are. 27-1, 27-2, for instance. These were usually on the manuals that came with the machines rather than on the machine. The -1 indicates a treadle, the -2 indicates a handcrank. As for tables, they didn't get sold with specific machines as such. Owners could pick and choose one based on their tastes. Some would go with the catalogue picture and some wouldn't. Having said that, it's more usual to find a one foot pedal treadle on a machine that predates the 1870s. But nothing is set in stone. Particularly if someone put a later model 27 in a table they already had. You can research tables and find out which ones were available around 1903, but, you won't know which one your machine had unless you a) have the actual table or b) have the original bill of sale.

[@carmencolon3520]

@@SimplyStitchy That would be exited to find the original bill of sale. Thanks for explaining the 27-1 to find the correct instructions manual. Now I know what to print out. Does Grandma sewing machine front bobbing plate have dates stamped? Sorry just sent another comment regarding this model. I am taking it apart to remove lots of rust hopefully I will be able to put it back. Thank you for been there for us.

[@viviannkeiru]

Please how do I change the stitches

[@SimplyStitchy]

The vibrating shuttle machines are straight stitch only. However, you can change the length of the stitches. There should be a knob either above or below the bobbin winder on the pillar. You should be able to turn the knob left or right to increase or decrease your stitch length. If it doesn't turn, it may need oiling. Thanks for watching.

[@raymondcavaney3928]

What's the difference between a 28 and a 28k

[@SimplyStitchy]

The K indicates that it was made at the Kilbowie plant in Clydebank, Scotland. Other than that, they are both Singer 28s.

[@raymondcavaney3928]

My 28 has a moulded cast back plate with decals that blends in with the body. Not a flat plate. Is it any different?

[@SimplyStitchy]

@@raymondcavaney3928 Hard to say without seeing pictures. Can you send the serial number and some photos to me via the Simply Stitchy facebook page?

[@johnjanedoe1676]

@16:11 128?

[@SimplyStitchy]

Spot on! Yes, it's a 128! 😀

[@robertfederle1663]

Hello, love the video and descriptions. I just purchased a Bentwood Singer 128-23. Serial number AJ863609, Has the "wrinkle" finish and looks like a date of Oct 4 1950. It appears to have slots in the bottom of the shuttle as you described but so does a Model 27 treadle machine Serial Number G1024684 dated jan 16 1911. It too has slots in the bottom of the shuttle. I am a bit confused. Also, the Bentwood 128-23 appears to have had a shuttle relase button but is missing. Do you know of a part number to replace this or was there not one to begin with for this model? I will be away this weekend but will check when I return. Thank you again for your video and Happy New Year.

[@SimplyStitchy]

You have a rare machine! Singer didn't make many wrinkle, or godzilla finish, 128-23 models. Congratulations on an incredible find! Singer didn't limit their shuttle designs to one specific era, or model for that matter. They had a tendency to use what they had, rather than design new, so a machine from 1911 having the same style of shuttle case as one from 1950 is perfectly feasible. It's the size of the shuttle that matters, not necessarily what it looks like. You may find that you have two machines that use the same size shuttle! Which is just typical Singer. Or they could be totally different sizes. As far as I am aware, all 128s have bobbin releases. It's a little cross-hatched button located on the actual bobbin race. Usually, if there is a hole, it's for the oil wick. However, I don't have a godzilla 128 so recommend you get a manual for it. That should let you know if there should be a release button or not. I'm not sure you can replace the bobbin release button without replacing the whole bobbin race mechanism. Thanks for watching! Happy New Year! 🙂

[@robertfederle1663]

@@SimplyStitchy Hope you had a great New Year weekend and Thank you very much for the reply and the information. I DO have the manual with it and it says the shuttle has no release but instead to tip it out with the finger so that answers one question about that. I also noted the Singer gold tag under the bobbin winder is the gold tag with red and blue with The Singer Mfg. Company in red as well as the artwork and says A Century of Sewing Service in the outer blue band and at bottom says 1851 to 1951. The shuttle length measures 49.27mm while the other from my 27 measures 48.64mm and and the 127 appears to be about the same as the 27 but it too was about 48.84mm. Could these discrepancies be from wear and would you say they are close enough to be interchangeable? What might you say the 128-23 might be worth?

[@robertfederle1663]

@@SimplyStitchy I also must say its the blackened version with the bobbin slides and front face having the balckened finish as is the back cover piece. Also came with its attachments.

[@SimplyStitchy]

@@robertfederle1663 Sounds like a centennial badge. There's only one way to see if a shuttle will fit in a different machine. That's to try it. Make sure you use the handwheel and turn it slowly. One of four things could happen. 1. The machine will work fine. 2. It will fail to draw the bobbin thread up from below. 3. It will skip stitches or break the thread. 4. The needle will hit the shuttle case. As far as valuations are concerned, your best bet is to look at local listings in your area to see what 128-23s are going for near you. You can check Craigs List, Facebook Marketplace, and even eBay. For eBay, you want to look at the completed listings, not the active ones. You'll also need a large dollop of salt. Many eBay listings are overinflated to cover eBay selling costs. Although the crinkle finish on a 128 is rare, the 128 model isn't. It's one of the most popular machines ever made by Singer.

[@SimplyStitchy]

@@robertfederle1663 Being a blackside machine may make a difference to the value. Look up the serial number to find out the year of the machine. A 1950 model might be more desirable to a collector than one from 1951.

[@ckim5134]

That machine is a 128

[@SimplyStitchy]

Yes! 🙂

[@stephenspreckley8219]

Thank you, thank you! My friend has a Singer 15k28 that was picked up on a council clean up (Sydney Australia) It has a treadle and an electric motor all set up on a desk configuration with drawers on the left side. I haven't yet seen one like this anywhere online and I want to get this machine operational if I can, xx Perhaps I can send a picture or a short vid....?

[@SimplyStitchy]

OO... the 15K28 - that's the industrial Singer 15! What a great find! It's very similar to the standard Singer 15 only I think the 15K28 takes 16x1 needles rather than 15x1. The "K" indicates it was made in Kilbowie, Scotland. I'm not sure where you would get parts in Australia, but if you check out supsew.com, they have catalogs of the parts you need for various industrial machines. Do a google search on "what is the Singer 15K80" and it takes you to an automatic download of their Singer 15 catalog.

[@stephenspreckley8219]

@@SimplyStitchy Thanks again!