Design Tips for Support Free 3D Printing Models (FDM)

[@pogle63]

Thank you Angus I am 59 and new to this 3d printing milarky and I have watched many of your videos they have always been enlightening and informative, I thank you for that. To me the hardest decision is when to and when not to use support material this video has helped me a lot you are indeed a 3d printing GURU once again many thanks.

[@mrjsutphenEDU]

The lessons you teach are extremely practical. I have several videos saved in a section labelled "3D Printer Knowledge" Your videos currently make up the majority of my collection. Thank you for giving me great advice.

[@boboscurse4130]

Holy cow! Your example of bridging at 2:30 is something this noob had no idea was possible!

[@3dbatman126]

The world is a better place with people like you around. Thanks for sharing this super useful tips.

[@paulandrulis4672]

I have the mechanical/electrical side of 3d printers down now, but I thank you for your ideas, information, and input concerning the printing side of the equation. I get more hard, usable information from your channel than another other two channels combined.

[@robinmayer3942]

Also, remember superglue. You don't have to print everything in one piece. As you've said, you can split some models in half, or for example if you want to print something like a model of the Jesus statue in Rio with the 90° overhanging arms, you change your model and print the arms separately and glue them on later. You could even add a little notch to your model so that the parts fit together perfectly later on.

[@MattWeber]

overhangs like this are why i LOVE kisslicer. it will adjust layer heights to ensure that there is a 50% overlap of previous layer to ensure you can get maximum overhang and details with minimal support needs (althought usually also uses supports unless you set the overhang angle pretty low)

[@BasedBidoof]

this seems like is has a mild learning curve. Gonna have to learn it after some coffee. Thanks for introducing me to this

[@MattWeber]

KZbin is your best friend for tutorials on it. Outside of the wizards I have barely really had to tweak any settings. I have multiple profiles for various support needs, and materials, but other than that just adjusting the retraction length and speed is about the only thing I tweaked. I run a .5 nozzle, my layers are 25%, max of 70%, with 25% first layer. Most things like this are based on nozzle diameter so it adjusts smartly if you change your nozzle without needing to adjust other settings. As long as your not printing too hot the supports come off very cleanly also with default settings. And the thin wall and extrusion control surpasses any slicer I have used so can get pretty crazy details without a small nozzle.

[@transorsmth3506]

prusa and cura both have adaptive layer heights too

[@slunce12]

Another tip, as a bonus to the sacrificial bridging technique: If you have the space around your model, you can model in pillars that make your cantilevered overhangs into bridges. It can be tricky with more complicated models, but with practice, it's super useful. Just support the free end of an overhang with a "bridge pillar" for the first layer of the bridge and break the pillar away after printing.

[@pirobot668beta]

Ya missed a very powerful tool in support-free land: including supports in the model itself! SR-71 model, ran out of ideas how to print it without support-hell. So I stood the model up on end, added a few narrow 'blades' attached to the engine nacelles and fuselage. The blades flared out where they met the build-plate. Printed the model, no supports. After printing, cut off the blades, have cool model.

[@MakersMuse]

Definitely a hugely powerful way of negating supports! I've been working on a lot of models recently and trying to make them as easy as possible (no supports or post processing) which inspired this video, but another detailing designed in supports is a good idea. Like the good old days!

[@mrjsutphenEDU]

The bridging idea is very similar to what you are describing, Greg. Angus edited the original STL file by adding one thin, solid layer to the STL. He easily cut it off later just like you. :)

[@sambenao7]

So instead of using supports you USE SUPPORTS?

[@katrinegadegaard1241]

@@sambenao7 That's genius! But yeah I don't know, I just use auto-generated support in those cases. Especially tree support, it's usually very clever and also looks amazing. I sometimes keep it, if I manage to break it off intact. Sometimes I suspect I make weird design decisions, just to get some nice support structures. I shall not presume to be an expert though, it's possible there may be situations where self made support can be more ideal.

[@stevesloan6775]

I've watched a fair few of your videos... over a fair while of time. This video kicks arse! I'm loving seeing you learn more and more. Have heart and forge on👊🏻🍀🍀🍀😎

[@stevesloan6775]

You should say what printer you used to create the models you showed at the end....🤓 dollars or not👊🏻🍀🍀🍀

[@hotaru8309]

Thank you. I find this technical stuff fascinating from both an architectural and physics based point of view. I appreciate you walking us through this.

[@limbsflailing4479]

I think this is the best 3d printing video I've seen

[@hunelektroBF]

Few years? Bro I am watching YT vids for tips like that and you showed it after few years? :O We want more! :)

[@JoeMakes]

Why I enjoy your videos: there are always some hidden tips that i wasn't aware of (like the orientation app in meshmixer). Been using this for years, yet never knew this feature right under my nose! Keep up the good work and I'll try and keep up, haha

[@alexandrevaliquette1941]

9:46 I really like the "sacrificial bridging" tip. Thank you for sharing. Alex from Québec, Canada

[@wernerboden239]

It is possible to print with an overhang of 60 degrees. At least, with PETG, I was able to print a spring, with an overhang of 65 degrees. I just needed to give it time to cool down, so I printed a column on the side, which did not do anything, except allowing the very small cross section of the spring, to cool down. Sometimes, you might want to incorporate support material in the design itself. I also noticed, Fusion360 can generate support. And it looks like it's doing that pretty well, compared to other slicers. If you have experience with this, let me know what you think about Fusion360

[@pogle63]

Thanks

[@muckademuck]

Great suggestions. I've found that changing the outline direction to outside-in (Simplify3d term) can make a big difference in how far I can push overhangs.

[@Vilvaran]

Thanks! A perfect video to ease my head; currently printing some parts that really ask a lot of FDM in general let alone my little limpy printer! (The Z axis bearing housings are cracking up: my only options are to either wait a month for replacements, or forcefully print some insane geometry [holes in X,Y and Z directions! W/ extra overhangs and slots!] and hope my printer handles making it's replacement parts...) At least now I know how I can get through this with less headaches, and more serviceable parts!

[@ChordOfC]

Thanks as always, Angus! A suggestion for more topics....I'd really like to learn more about industrial 3D printing. What's happening in that space? Any show and tell, factory tours, and conferences would be amazing :D

[@bretspangler8717]

Not always doable, but designing parts that won't require support is always my goal, once you get into the mind set it starts to become a more organic process.

[@GCDelp]

Hi Angus, thanks for the video! In the future, could you please try to put the face cam in the upper right? You tend to cover up the menus in the software you're using, and it makes it hard to associate tools with a location in the interface. Also, in relation to giving yourself a good first layer, what's your thoughts on modifying the model versus moving the model below the build plate in your slicer? Thanks!!

[@sargfowler9603]

Thanks for posting Angus. I've also found the print patten affects the overhangs too, e.g. a straight back and forth fill pattern works much better than say, a spiral type fill.

[@markustube]

I always learn something watching your vids Angus. Thanks for all the great content!

[@MakersMuse]

Cheers! Really appreciate it.

[@RegularOldDan]

Regarding overhang angle: of course, if you can change your nozzle, you could slap on a 0.8mm nozzle and go to 0.1mm layer height (or even finer, perhaps) and not only could you push the overhangs, the surface finish wouldn't suffer as much.

[@jeffrussert448]

I almost didn't watch, thinking this would be to basic for me. But man Angus, you have some really creative 3D printing ideas. I can't wait to try some of this stuff out

[@Inventorsquare]

Great tip on the bridging for holes.

[@jacobraab4892]

I enjoyed the video. It will really help me with my design. I have been a subscriber for a while and I like it when you review filament? Have you ever thought about getting some PLA from Mad Maker Filament? I have had great success with their products and I would like more people to know about their products.

[@jamesshelburn5825]

Maybe run a bridge for the overhangs, it's making a step on your test sample if you designed single thread behind then backstep and start the angle?

[@olaruud9366]

This has for a long time been something that irked me a bit about many models shared in thingiverse, models that with just a little bit thought could be printed with no supports. Of course it is bad to complain about free stuff, but things like this is really something that denotes experience in 3d printing and a "fdm mindset" in modeling. Great video angus, make more like these please. Splitting for a clean bottom surface does not have to be done in meshmixer btw, at least S3d this can be done simply by lowering the model slightly so it is "cut" by the bed and the result is the same. I have a few more tricks to add to this, one is like greg gallacci mentiones to make "supports" in the model itself. A variation of that can be designed as absolute minimal up to required height and greater surface close to where it is supposed to work, removing lots of excess support material. Bit hard to explain in words. Another trick is to use bridging smarter where there are angles in the bridge. Still hard to explain in words, but the essence is to separate by one or two layer heights so it first will bridge one way and then have support for a second orientation. Useful for holes as well. It is finding solutions like this that makes 3d printing and modeling just a little more fun for me.

[@TechyBen]

Never knew "bridging" was actually possible (on the practical scale). Wow, thanks!

[@maga6403]

👍

[@fukkenPavlo]

There's one more tip you didn't mentioned. Some models require dense infill in order to support overhanging layers, increasing the number of perimeters to 3-5 would work just like increasing the extrusion width. And it will allow to print on low infills with great quality on sharp overhangs (45 degrees +) with smooth outer face surface.

[@mikemike7001]

Informative and nicely done as usual, with tantalizing hints of forthcoming projects. Will you make the diamond model available?

[@MakersMuse]

Cheers! Yep will release it eventually, needs some further tweaks.

[@jimmycrawford2977]

once again good video Angus

[@DukeDudeston]

Hmm I may have to do a little testing. Doing a few prints with a "bridge" they are 2 inches high, and no more than 2 inches wide and of course printing out support for the whole thing when its only a couple of mms of detail seems a huge waste. So I will cut up the model and do a test print (literally just the bridge portion) to see if my printer and settings can handle it. Worth the time doing the test print, if it ultimately saves time (and material) as each print takes 8+ hours. Although I could modify the models to have a 40° "over hang" to help bridge it. Again a great idea from watching your video!

[@holemajora598]

Thank you this video answer a question that I’ve had for a long time. My printer always seemed like it was under extruding by showing what I thought look like pot marks in the layers. I’ve been using Cura and I now realize the default width from my .4 nozzle has been .4 in the layer width. Thank you

[@ZebraandDonkey]

Great ideas. Gives me hope on a few prints I am working on at the moment.

[@wolvenscout6445]

Hi, I'm very new to 3D printing. I want to 3D print a PC case, which will require quite a few "plates" to make a very long and flat surface. I plan on designing them so that they interlock, but my concern is with the whole surface bending under weight attached to it. Would embedding steel rods (1/8" in a 4mm plate), or aluminium bars be a good way of strengthening the object?

[@l2smith2]

I'd like to see a guide on getting the best underside flat surface from bridging or support material. Can it be done to look almost as good as a top layer?

[@adambourkeproduction]

Love it Angus! increasing the Width blew me away! Love it!

[@germiniano3403]

really good information presented very well. congratulations for your channel!

[@TheSentientCloud]

I'm curious. Many people 3D print fractals, but I'm wondering about how to print a decently sized Menger sponge with no supports without printing 20 parts and gluing them together to make a larger one. If a printer can handle 45 degree overhangs, how would a printer handle a Menger Sponge sliced at a diagonal so that it's two halves but it's absolutely *filled* with 45 degree overhangs? Could be an interesting stress test that simultaneously tests detail and overhang capability.

[@3DCGdesign]

The images I see of Menger Sponge appear to show an object that should print quite well using bridging, as there appear to be no cantilevers, but straight bridges supported on both ends. But if you orient onto a corner to print at 45 degree angle, will you mess up one corner or just split the whole model in half or something to have 2 parts? Seems better to optimize your printer for good bridging to solve this problem.

[@101rotarypower]

I always love these! Please Please keep these coming more often!

[@bobbykeyz1263]

So many great tips my friend. I'm still very new and I can use all the help I can get.

[@JohnSmith-mk8hz]

So I need to turn my printer upside down?

[@NM-wd7kx]

this is exactly why I want a resin printer.

[@aaryangaikwad1676]

Thanks Angus! It really helped me!!!

[@MakersMuse]

Glad it helped!

[@Bajicoy]

Cool video, never heard of sacrificial bridging before so I’ll have to give it a try next time I make a model, out of curiousity, why did you skip 45-60 degree angling conventional models? That tuning fork model for example, assuming you could not add a chamfer because the over hang was intended to slot into something, you could angle the entire model, add just enough support under and around the edge with a brim maybe and get away without as many supports and potentially stronger part because the layers are angled 45 degrees to potential forces, hmm guess it doesn’t follow your title of not using supports i guess, thing is that I’m right now printing a plastic case for a gem stone that is a simple oval like extrusion with some over hangs on the top and lots of lopoid pattern (swiss cheese holes) all over, a nightmare of a model for printing but it is most effectively printed not on the flat side of an oval where gaps and layers might be most easily visible and put unneccesary strain on a necklace ring but at 45 degrees like a resin printer might slice its model, that actually brings up a good video subject, why resin prints are sliced at different angles from fdm machines, anyways, keep up the interesting projects and content!

[@Veptis]

I think I am very good at thinking about models in 3D and visualize support. I even designed a model for a print in place two part model radio box. I sadly got he hinge too tiny but it worked once. I dislike support as well and try to avoid it as much as possible. But I would need more help with getting the least amount of support on a model that work. It depends on the slicer but I was printing an inverse sphere recently and therefore I set the supports to 54° degrees

[@mozkitolife5437]

Great video. Definitely going to improve my thinking. I only question the addition of things like bevels that fundamentally alter the design and in itself is "support" material. I'm saying that the definition of "supports" can be strictly used and lets us get away with adding things to our models that are, if we're honest, supports.

[@RobinKurtz]

Great video as always Angus! If you're looking for another topic in a similar space I have a suggestion! Design Tips for fast & efficient 3D Printing Models (FDM); Using less material or shapes/featured that go well with how the layers build up. Thanks for your amazing content!

[@jeric_synergy8581]

Good stuff, very useful, quite practical. About to pull the trigger on an Ender 3, wish me luck.

[@PanDiaxik]

I think 3d printer could print non-horizontal bridges, but I don't know any software which can generate needed gcode.

[@minercraftal]

How do you deal with, the gravity affect the sizing? I use 45°for a long time, and noticed that the gravity still make messes with the shape, like make it curves, wrong angle, wrong cross X sizes, etc. otherwise, a lot of times when I need the side stiffness , the tilting would be limited. This time I use different material method, nylon is not stick good with pla, so when I make this type of support, it’s easier to remove.

[@adamtyler6746]

Was the single layer added to support the holes added in the slicing processor or was the part itself 3D modeled with an extremely thing layer of material there?

[@iamdarkyoshi]

The circular cooling ducts that surround the printhead on thingiverse for various printers are fantastic for bridging. My cheapass printer is killer on bridging now.

[@first-thoughtgiver-of-will2456]

your videos are very informative thank you for the work you do.

[@rheller_82]

We experienced 3d printers already know this. Still I think it's not talked about enough. A+ 👍

[@brianpercival1829]

Has any manufacturer made nozzles with opening shapes? Ovals or rectangles. Over laying an oval shape and hardens faster could increase angles? Just a thought.

[@kornshadow097]

I'd recommend putting your camera pip on the right so you don't cover up the options and we can see what you're doing in the options and menus. good video!

[@Mech87a]

Hey, at overhang parts that are bewtem larger parts of a structure couldnt you use first a smal bit of bridging followed by support structures placed on that bridging to further reduce plastic waste?

[@thekillerb77]

I wonder how 3d printing in space (zero-g) would fair with no supports since you aren't fighting gravity, necessarily.

[@stevesloan6775]

So can you get further overhanging via a larger nozzle?

[@rpavlik1]

Good stuff! I'm guessing that material probably also has some effect; specifically I'm still using abs which has more expansion/contraction with cooling. I suspect that slowing print speed might improve overhang (if it goes too fast, the extruded filament just shrivels up and doesn't adhere to the previous layer well) but I haven't specifically investigated it - been too busy printing desired parts to try your style of systematic experimentation. Any thoughts on this?

[@JonathanKayne]

the sacrificial first layer is actually a pretty old technique. it has been used in some of the original RepRap designs.

[@Mottersmotters]

Great video Angus 👍

[@izadanshoa]

No need to add 45 degree over hang if you rotate that part to where the two edges make a 45 degree triangle. some slicer programs count backwards from verticle; that is why people state 70 degree coverage when it really is only 20 degree coverage.

[@josiahriojas2593]

Angus, how do you create a gear by hand in a CAD program? Is there a simple way to do it? Or should I just use items from Thingiverse?

[@LucasHartmann]

I definitely reinvented the bridge supports. Just gave that tip to Joel a on his drawer handle video. :-) I guess common sense is convergent.

[@pirobot668beta]

Overhang analysis in Cura 3. Cura, Solid view, Supports enabled, specify overhang angle in Supports. Overhangs greater than or equal to specified angle shown in red. Doesn't work in X-ray or Layer view.

[@peterchodyra7184]

Hi Angus, thank you for the videos you post, I have gotten many ideas and a lot of inspiration from them. Can you tell me what brand, type is the black filament with white spots, it’s at the beginning of this video? Thx Peter

[@Medievalfan94]

I ordered my Ender 3 v2 this week and I had design for additive manufacturing at university. It baffles me, how many things on thingiverse are obviously not designed with additive manufacturing in mind. Obviously most people cant cope with the idea of building up parts from nothing and stick to subtractive manufacturing when desinging stuff.

[@Soggstermainia]

Great video! Can you do a video on how to design a model that needs supports best to enable good print results!

[@naturewatcher7596]

As a beginner I add automatic supports and brim to every printed model, unless it is said in a description, that the model is printed without supports. Did print one without supports, as it was said, and it worked. But if you have to tinker with slicer settings to avoid using supports, then you better not say 'no supports required' in the description of the model.

[@mrsargemeister]

Hey Angus..good video. Any tips on settings for successful bridging? I have a prusa clone with bowden tube style extruder. Any help would be appreciated...thanks.

[@MScholtz]

The sacrificial bridge I first saw it on Prusa printer parts.

[@Senzeni]

But how can I add a sacrificial layer to a hole that's already there? I can't start from the opposite side and make it shallower. Can you recommend a tool? I'm using Fusion 360.

[@sambrewer2306]

Have a friend that designed/printed a jule (vape) protective case w extra cartridge for xtra pod. He took to vape shops and cleaned up. 😉 Love ur vids

[@NKCubed]

Is that a megaminx above the giant maker coin in your background?!

[@ruud4508]

Bit off topic, what does everybody think about the Uniz UDP? It has been so quiet lately about these high resolution high speed 3d printers, is it the breakthrough we all have been waiting for, or like the fast Carima C-cat a promise that's never going to happen? And why not? Who's going to pay $150.000 for a Carbon Clip when a Uniz UDP is faster with bigger build dimensions for 1/20 of that price?

[@ruud4508]

Still all i can hear are Crickets.... Does the Uniz UDP even exists? Nobody seems to care

[@alkiou3613]

Great video, very helpful. I want to know if Cooling and Speed affect the overhangs.

[@nekowerewolf9769]

Yes

[@fedelerinaldi6720]

Hi, Im having issues printing a model which uses Boole - i connect and flatten the object in C4d , Cura sees the holes (windows in a building) , but the printer ignores the holes

[@ChannelHTS]

thanks heaps for this Angus i used to take for granted i needed supports but my model today made me think hmmm if thats 45 i won't need supps. thanks heaps again mate

[@mattcrunk8558]

I've had huge success with printing at lower temps, slower speeds, then using a support roof like the ones in Cura. I've used support roofs after trying dozens of different support methods. But I think the take away from this video should be to avoid needing supports, and to think about the shape of your object/

[@f4dy]

Great tips. Thanks Angus!

[@jps99]

Another great tips video, thanks!

[@anguscos4506]

is that a nathan wilson puzzle in the background

[@MakersMuse]

Maybe ;P

[@izzyblackout1090]

Hi, currently I'm working on a project for fish feeding system. The structure are made of FDM 3D printed ABS. I found that water seeps through the structure due to layer stacking cavity. How do I get the printed model to be watertight?

[@3DCGdesign]

There is a Maker's Muse video on printing a water bottle.

[@thishadowithin]

My Creality printer I was in the middle of a print and realized it had a 3cm gap. I used an ordinary sheet of paper under briefly slowed it to 80 percent. It printed just fine....just a guess but probably didn't need to use a support.

[@Willy_Tepes]

My problem is that I want supports but the slicer (Cura) puts supports where they are not needed and though this is usually not a big issue it really bugs me.

[@buildersmark]

Great video! Definitely going to try the last hack.

[@devilincarnate5691]

Excellent video once again, thanks Angus :)

[@c4pnk1rk]

Great tips... My only concern is when most people design, they aren't designing to see how easy it is to print, they're designing for a function (example.... A lot of people print quadcopter parts, and some angles like this 45 degree here just wouldnt make sense/be possible)... In this instance, it absolutely has to be function over form =)

[@JAYTEEAU]

Thanks Angus, really cool examples and explanations. Cheers

[@italogarcia1597]

Other way is to put a fdm printer in a non gravitacional camp. How this technology works in a space station? That is a way to cancel gravitacional force? I think a centrifugal process.

[@MovieMakes]

Question. I have an FLSUN QQ-S and I replaced the nozzle and somehow adjusted the zed axis and now one side of the print is fine yet the other side has striation and poor print quality. I use Simplify 3d as the slicer. What could be wrong?

[@bernardtarver]

Overhangs can also be greater than 135 deg.

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

I designed a model that's 9 spheres inside one another with very minimum support and all spheres can rotate independently in all axis. And the idea here is that, for PLA at least, printing bottomless is very viable as long as the first layer layout size is large enough to make the model not tip

[@TheLittlenick100]

hello angus i just started whit 3d printing and i thingk i just got the hang of it but is is stil a little slow on my cr 10 s i saw your video of 5 cool things to print and the time it take s u to print it is 2 to 3 times faster then i do it could u pleas tel me your setting of your slicer i use ideamaker greets from holland

[@Elephantine999]

Great info. Thanks!

[@bishopvick6373]

What is the awesome outro music?

[@landonferguson7282]

Hey, I just ordered a Creality cr-10s, what filaments should I start using being new to 3d printing?

[@terl0th]

PLA, its imho the easiest filament to work with. It doesnt need very high temperatures or an enclosure, and mostly yields good results. Its for the most part super easy to print with, even bed adhesion is no problem, you can get it to stick on painters tape, gluestick on the glass or even directly on the glass without any additional measure. ASA is also a solid choice for material that can be printed on the CR-10s, but you will need to make ASA-Juice (50ml Acetone + 150mm ASA-Filament cut to small pieces, dissolved over night) to get the prints to stick on your bed. And ASA is generally a bit harder to print, and should be printed with an enclosure around the printer (but you can get away with small prints without one) I would full heartedly recommend PLA. But if you want to print stuff for outdoor/car use right from the start, you might want to take a look at ASA.

[@landonferguson7282]

terl0th Thanks for the help, but I was trying to ask what filament brands are good, not what type of plastic to use.

[@terl0th]

Oh, i misunderstood. I use janbex pla and Filamentum asa, but i guess you cant really Go wrong with branded stuff like the Filaments from matterhackers