Devil's Tower Durrance Pitch 7 - Bailey's Direct

[@ISUOutdoorRec]

super helpful!

[@mission2day]

hey, man this is a sweet climb, i did this route on Saturday and i was wondering how i actually did this route. I ended up going right and the very first ledge where you placed your #3. It was directly up and quite hard. and i passed a piton and then ran it out 25 feet to the top on the most technical climbing of the route. I was thinking, 'there is no way this is 5.6' ... your route looks like what i should have done. Also ' a couple of those placements in your video sounded hollow' how was the rock quality on that side? it looks horrendous.

[@WiscoAdventures]

Had to work with what we had at the time, the whole last pitch that was supposed to be 5.6 was not the grade.

[@CasaDelMandar]

1:57, that crack was the horrible size for bd's where a 2 is tipped and a 3 is too tight, so I sympathize for the less than ideal placement but that one is pretty scary tbh.

[@CasaDelMandar]

and after watching the rest man... I hope you have a mentor that can look at this footage and correct you. If not, I'll take the risk of sounding like a dbag youtube commenter and say that the .5 and the #5 were both horrendous placements. If someone doesn't or hasn't pointed this out to you already, these are the types of things that will have life threatening consequences if not corrected. If you want to know why I can explain I just didn't wanna go on a rant if you happened to learn these things by now

[@WiscoAdventures]

@@CasaDelMandar yeah so this was my buddy why led this pitch. We have revised this pitch and he knows what to correct. In general this pitch seemed much sketchier than 5.6 for a new climber without off width experience. It was a learning experience and we made it regardless

[@CasaDelMandar]

@@WiscoAdventures Good to hear! and yeah it looked a bit hard to protect in general. would require some more creativity with the gear sizes he had going into it.

[@WiscoAdventures]

@@CasaDelMandar haha yeah it was definitely a wake up call pitch. If I do the route again I will be doing the “jump” traverse next time

[@user-rr4sl2he8m]

I have never seen anything like this. Fortunately that guy is both lucky and strong. Some of those placements would no hold body weight.