The Durrance Route 5.8 - Devil's Tower, WY

[@Dan-rp7il]

great video really showing what its like

[@rodgerraubach2753]

I did this route in 1986 with my fiance, and led both the first lLeaning column) and second pitches (second pitch was the Durrance crack) with a few large stoppers and remaining fixed pitons. I had a single 3" friend for larger protection. No issues or slip/falls. Anne led the short 3 pitch and then I led the flake-crack with a few small wired stoppers. Finished by the Bailey Direct. A fun route but the weather changed the next day with rain and cloud--had to go home without a second route that we had planned.

[@alpha51omega38]

Hexcentrics and stoppers, one solid old tube chock. That's what we had in 1979 for pro. A classic for sure.

[@princenabby1]

It's an iconic route on an iconic formation, I know, but Durrance looks like such a thrutch! "Blue collar" is a "red flag" for me. That said, this is a great video and a really good send!

[@dswanderinggoat]

Blue collar isn’t necessarily a bad thing it just means expect it to be physical and “full contact” and is a term commonly used to describe offwidth climbs. Yes it’s slippery and yes you will probably come out bruised and a little bloody but that makes the send that much better. If you don’t mind a little grunting you will have a blast on this! Thanks so much for the comment and I’m glad you enjoyed the video!

[@princenabby1]

@@dswanderinggoat Thanks for the gloss, David. I've been climbing for 30 years, so I've done my fair share of blue collar routes. It's just not a genre I enjoy much anymore is all. If I ever make it out to Wyo, though, I'll absolutely gird my loins and give Durrance a whirl, on your recommendation :)

[@dswanderinggoat]

@@princenabby1 If you get out there lemme know how it goes!

[@dwainwarren2952]

I loved the Durrance route!

[@almeadows8277]

I lead the crux pitch on the Durrance Route in 1972, ascent number 949.

[@sdoowramaj]

Wondering why you belayed your second off of single bolts rather than the masterpoint of the quad you were cloved into.

[@dswanderinggoat]

Wasn’t really a bolt it’s a very beefy eyelet that is connected to the right most lower bolt with a piece of steel cabling for redundancy. Made more sense then an uncomfortable low belay off the quad master point.

[@NotWhyPlease]

This route was just an awful grind. Did it last year and how smooth and polished the rock was really took a lot away from the climb for me. But I’m also a bad crack/OW climber so I don’t know what I expected. Good lead.

[@dswanderinggoat]

I’m not the best at crack either and I did think this route was pretty tough at the grade. What I did appreciate though was the fantastic rock quality, good pro and cool summit. Glad I experienced it but probably won’t do it again.

[@jzjzjzj]

you guys are summitting the tallest thing in the vast plains of wyoming for an amazing view and you're complaining about the rock???

[@dswanderinggoat]

Where did I complain about the rock? If you read the description it says “500 ft of classic granite” . The comment about the slippery nature of the route is there because it’s actually slippery. It’s not a complaint it’s a statement of fact because this is a trade route. I love this route and the tower in general and want to climb many more routes on it soon.