DID KM500R Chain Cut & Rivet Tool RZ350 RZ FZ FZR Project Bike Ep11 Install rivet type master link

This video will show using the DID KM500R Chain Cut & Rivet Tool
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pressing the master link plate and flaring the master link rivets onto a DID 520 X-ring chain. This is an excellent tool and is far superior to the harbor freight one I have used in the past. It is well worth the investment. Used properly you really can’t go wrong using this tool. As I mention in the video, I actually prefer the harbor freight one when taking chains apart and pressing out the rivets on the old master link.
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Thanks for watching!

[@KensGarage1]

I just watched this Ken's Garage video again (3/19/23) for a refresher because I need to go install another master link today. I clicked on the amazon link for the tool. In my video I took a screenshot and the DID tool was $90 on 2/11/21. About 2 years later the tool is now $121. A 34% increase. Damn. Still a worthwhile investment but that is quite a price increase ain't it?

[@pitchforkpeasant6219]

Previously there was inflation and then shrinkflation. Rinse and repeat. Then we had covidflation where we had both at one time. Significant increase in price and reduction in product. Greed and corruption at the top. More people having to figure out how to do everything themselves these days

[@DavidM2002]

I just did a DID chain and sprocket replacement on my CBR using the Motion Pro Jumbo tool. Because the MP tool is universal, it doesn't have the built in stops like the dedicated DID tool does. I printed out the DID tool instructions and at the bottom, it provides the diameter of the flared pins. You do have to be careful to check your chain exactly against the table though as there is such a variety in each size. The flare diameter for most chains is 5.5mm to 5.8mm . Mine is 5.8 to 6.0 mm . Even with the dedicated DID tool, I would still get a digital caliper and measure the diameter of the flare just so that I could sleep a little better. This was a really good video to watch and compare with my own experience. Well done.

[@buckwheat7424]

for any first timers- the orings are bigger than the pins. so when placing the masterlink into the 2 ends of the chain, they move around and are supposed to fit over the sleves on the ends of the chain as well as on the other side. so while you're pressing the link plate on you can stop and look at the plate to see if the oring is not centering over the sleeve. the masterlink side you can see it move over the greased sleeve before moving onto the plate side. as they can get pinched in a machined environment such as this application. once it gets pinched it wont suprisingly just hop over into it's bedding position. and that will be the place that causes the chain reaction of failure. just so you know why they're so big on the pin. with grease they'll stay on the sleeves.when you're all done with the flaring you can measure with calipers how wide they are, they're supposed to be pretty close couple thousandths maybe, if one is a lot wider than the other, it means something isn't quite square or you just over-flared one side, and that puts an extra load on the one side of a plate, it'll be a more wear point. for 300 or 400 dollars it's best if you get it on right so i'll last longer than a year or 2, and i wouldn't put aluminum rear sprocket on at all. most bikes running this set up have some hp and torque, the weakest link is how good the bike's traction is with that power, if it hooks up like never before, they can handle the extra weight, aluminum should be left at the part stores.

[@weaver412]

Nice job, one piece of advice, get a caliper. Find the average width along a few different links and press your plate to that measurement. Just a heads up.

[@maxounette-jv7dj]

thank you, I ordered this tool after realizing it wasn't a clip masterlink (contrary to what the website stated) 😂 I will try it tonight

[@KensGarage1]

You are welcome. It's a great tool. Follow the directions and all will be good.

[@thegutsyninja8851]

Measure measure measure the tolerances. Also be sure to check to see if there is binding or sticking links. I have this tool and a good standard tool. Both have advantages The rear pin looks like it’s too tight.

[@Jake_203]

Thank you for the video! It helped me a lot👍🏻

[@KensGarage1]

You're welcome. I'm glad it was helpful.

[@mickeymouse4897]

Tool needs lube on threads & rivet anvil, as it tends to stick inside the hollow bolt ... Personally I'd use a lot more grease on the pins & inside the bushes where the pins go thru, you've used minimal lube.

[@ekihoo949]

Being most accurate, it's recommend that you will measure the thick / placement of the plate. If it's too tight, O-ring will be broken after some time. And if it's too loose, O-rings can't work grease is flying out. DID usually presenting that dimension in instructions.

[@Vedran.]

With DID tool you cant overpress, it bottoms up on pins when pressing side plate and you feel it stops. Same with riveting.

[@eriknash8783]

@@Vedran. While it's true that the tool is designed to stop when plate is fully pressed, it is still possible to press the side plate on too far. After the screw stops, I tried to put an extra little turn on it to be sure and I crushed the orings. This tool is not completely fool proof. The same goes for when you are riveting the pins. You can force the bolt to go farther, which can cause problems. Watch the DID You Tube video and it is very clear. Unfortunately, it's in Japanese, but it is very clear and they give you tips on how to verify your presses are good, without using a caliper...

[@Vedran.]

@@eriknash8783 Were you installing a DID Chain when that happened? If not, I can see how it's possible to overpress (slightly different pin lenghts, shorter, to be exact). Never had problems with this tool on numerous DID ZVMX Chains (i do check with Caliper and it is always perfect)

[@buckwheat7424]

@@Vedran. i believe you still can especially if an oring doesn't slip over the center sleeve

[@buckwheat7424]

@@eriknash8783 if it's a d.i.d. video hope it's better than the use of english on the directions that come with the press/cutter. whoever is teaching the english classes over in japan is not doing it right.

[@ekihoo949]

Yes, it will provide stop for the pressing side plate into correct width, at least I will check the width by caliber just in case. But, when you are riveting, the are no hard stop against any gating. You need to check the diameter of riveted pin by caliber. And this diameter depends on your chain. Usually min is 5.5 and max 5.8 mm. And some HD models 5.7 / 6.0 mm. Pls, check per chain spec.

[@eriknash8783]

Actually, this tool does create a hard stop when riveting, but the key is to feel for that resistance and stop without going further. Then you just need to verify that the pusher has made contact with the outer plate. DID has a You Tube video that goes over all of this and they show you how to use the tool to verify the side plate pressing and riveting is fully completed, without a caliper.

[@user-wu1ji3dw8z]

감사합니다.

[@fc1133]

Very helpful. Question: Just wanted to install my chain today and noticed it came with a lock like this. I didn't have this tool and don't plan on getting one. Can I use a lock with a clip? Thanks.

[@KensGarage1]

I think you mean a clip style master link??? Of course you can use one. Many would argue that the clip master link is unsafe. If you choose to do this get the correct one for your chain and be very careful installing it in the correct orientation. I would not use a clip master link on any modern high horsepower motorcycle.

[@fc1133]

@@KensGarage1 Hey, thanks for the fast reply. Yes, that is what I meant. I ride a XR650L so I think I am going to be fine. : ). thanks again.

[@Kalanioccc]

so this tool will bottom out to prevent over-flaring the rivets? Nice!

[@KensGarage1]

It absolutely does. This should be a welcome addition to your tool arsenal. Thanks for the comment.

[@weaver412]

Rivet, yes. Pressing the plate, no. Have to keep checking to make sure it's the same measurement as a few other links.

[@Vedran.]

​@@weaver412 even when pressing plate there will be noticable stop: press plate is machined to hit pins which are suspended from behind by other part of the tool and unable you to press further. Except if you are so strong that pin lenght is getting smaller (crushing pins and pressing side plate further than normal). That being said, i do use caliper to check and never had anything but perfect pressed side plate and riveted pins with this tool (on DID ZVMX Chains)

[@hlpang1075]

The one from RK chains look easier to use