How To Replace Motorcycle Chain and Rivet Master Link

[@dannyboy163]

i've watched a ton of videos and the only thing couldn't figure out was the riveting tool. you showed it and explained it PERFECTLY.

[@nickbuchananracing]

yea i noticed that and wanted to actually show the part most videos left out. so glad it helped.thanks for watching!

[@theah781]

Yes he did....just what i needed to know, thanks!

[@michaelbortle5859]

10 out of 10 recommendation. Great video. Very informative and detailed step-by-step process thank you for your help.

[@emmettturner9452]

Even without cracking, if you flare the rivet too much then the link will bind. Definitely read the installation specs for your chain/master link and measure as you go to make sure you don’t go past that. I wouldn’t just measure the pins on the other links since they obviously aren’t the same and may not be the same spec.

[@FutureProductionz239]

I forgot to measure the pins before riveting the master link. Now I'm not sure if i pressed them enough. What should i do?

[@emmettturner9452]

@@FutureProductionz239 There should be a spec from the manufacturer if you need it. :)

[@FutureProductionz239]

@@emmettturner9452 can't find it.

[@emmettturner9452]

@@FutureProductionz239 What size/brand?

[@FutureProductionz239]

@@emmettturner9452 it measures at 4.8mm the ones on the Chain are 5.1ish. I tried to press the rivet in more today but the pin bent. Didnt seem to really stretch out the rivet more. Still measured at 4.8mm after a few 1/4 turns

[@MrEye4get]

I bought a cheap (Chinese-made, under $20) chain-breaking set online. The rod used to push out the retaining pin almost immediately bent! I borrowed another pin and finally got the retaining pin out. Once I tried to flare the new links the flare tool also failed. I carefully rode to a local shop to have the pins properly flared. If you plan to remove and replace a chain, spend a bit more for a proper chain-breaking kit.

[@nickbuchananracing]

dang chinesium

[@TwIn603]

Wait right there.. I’ll be back in the morning I know that I’m not really worth it But you give me time I’ll work on it Give me some time while I work on it! LONG live lil peep lol remix there. Oh and video was really helpful!

[@alan-sk7ky]

Once you've broken the chain you can use to old to pull through the new one, if you're not changing sprox too. ;-)

[@nickbuchananracing]

clever. good idea if you dont want to remove the sprocket cover.

[@C_R_O_M________]

Exactly, I was going to comment on that, just zip tie the last link of the old chain with the first link of the new and pull it through.

[@stevenbuteaux]

best video i have seen on this

[@nickbuchananracing]

Thanks!

[@25sumpter]

Thank you for this detailed video!

[@rustysteel8714]

Excellent and detailed instructions! 👍

[@TheYakkis]

This was EXCELLENT ! thank you. edit: subbed.

[@nickbuchananracing]

youre welcome. really glad to hear! More videos comming soon.

[@rubo1964]

nothing excellent about it

[@JessicaISsexy]

@@rubo1964 don’t be a hater… Nick put the video up obviously for beginners and to help people. And did so with good intentions. That’s a tough combination these days. And he saved a lot of people 100-200$ in labor alone to show people how to do it. Thank you Nick for being a stand up guy and trying to help other motorcyclist change their chains so they can do what we love to do… the video was excellent. I’ve changed my Honda CBR 650F chain several times and it requires a 525 chain, but my brother just got a Suzuki 650 and it calls for a 520, and I’ll be recommending this video to him. Great instructions, and thanks for being a good instructor for people who need the help.

[@nickbuchananracing]

@@JessicaISsexy thanks for the kind words. Yea honestly I am figuring out its tough to balance too much and too little info. Too much and people with short attention spans get bored after 5 seconds...too little and its of no use to someone looking for a detailed helpful video. Ill keep doing what im doing and make detailed videos, even if it doesnt get as many views, for those that really need help it will be what they need to get the job done.

[@58lifestylez]

Thanks for the video! However I would still disagree with not changing both sprockets when changing chain.

[@nickbuchananracing]

youre welcome. to each their own. it definitely doesnt hurt to do them all at once.

[@gunztommiegunz]

How about a motorcycle? Ok to replace chain only or does this apply?

[@nicflatterie7772]

To remove the chain, I just use a grinder and cut it completely. No need to keep anything anyway so I don’t waste time pushing the pins.

[@nickbuchananracing]

yup, if youre not saving anything grinder straight through is waaay faster

[@STRANGE_hour]

@@nickbuchananracing yeah this shit is goofy - all the steps to carefully remove something that you’re going to throw away lol

[@royrlgd]

Hello friend and thank you for the video. Any ideas what to to if while assembly, i press the master link plate 0.5 mm to much? I tried to pull it beck to place with a flat head screwdriver without success. Thanks anyway.

[@KarolinaPe]

Its so detailed. Its best video for me! Big ty❤❤❤❤❤

[@MarioAna2112]

Excellent video. My favorite by far.

[@DavidM2002]

Excellent demonstration. But... digital calipers accurate to a couple 0.001" are too cheap not to have one in your shop for these types of jobs. When you flare your rivet link, the chain manufacturer should give you the dimension of the diameter of the flared end. For example, DID chains are mostly 5.5 - 5.8mm. Some are 5.7 - 6.0mm so be sure to check.

[@frankenbikestien5073]

no no no....incorrect use of chain tool, the outer plate should not be pressed on with the rivet head.....the chain should sit in the tool and the press plate is used to press on the side plate

[@TheGamersRace]

Yeah that was pretty sus

[@C_R_O_M________]

Some Chinese tools have a plate with 2 holes (for the rivets' position) to press the plate and the grooved anvil for the back part. Pressed mine yesterday with one of those. The problem with the Chinese tools is that their metals are softer than the rivets and instead of riveting the rivet you rivet the rivet head! I had two of those tools and had to cut the rivet pin with a disk just to get it out of the alignment bolt. It had flared out and couldn't be extracted from the tool.

[@richmc2024]

Good video man. Very handy info. 👍

[@oldjeep]

Good video. Was needing a refresher on using my chain tool since it has been a few years. One comment - when removing the old chain, if you have a grinder why take the time to sand the head off and press it rather than just using a cutoff wheel and cutting the side plates in half? (Never mind - see that you were just demoing the situation where you want to reuse the chain)

[@nickbuchananracing]

Just to show how to use it. if you are trashing the chain and you have a grinder. Yea..just cut that thing off.

[@explorethewonder]

Very nice and informative video. Thanks for sharing! Liked this video and subbed to your channel.

[@tedleroux7131]

Allways usefull to to refresh one:s memory thanks

[@hardtruckin1]

I used a laser that was set by my rear sprocket…with the beam hitting the centre of each link… The swingarm notches don’t always indicate perfectly …

[@nickbuchananracing]

thats one option. I too was told to be careful about only using the notches on the swingarm adjusters. but after getting into trackdays and racing, myself and everyone around are changing tires all the time and we always just use the notches and I never noticed any handling problems. And thats at full pace at a racetrack. Of course it depends on on each machine and how accurate the manufacturer got the marks to be but so far on my ninja 300, no troubles.

[@josephjoestar5444]

Perfect video explaining

[@nickbuchananracing]

thanks joseph

[@garystackhouse5787]

Brilliant....thank you. liked & subscribed!

[@Camouflage27]

Thanks. Very good instructionvideo 🙂

[@nickbuchananracing]

youre welcome. glad you enjoyed it!

[@novarazz]

Great video, thanks for sharing. Any tips on keeping your chain so clean? Mine gets so gunky

[@nickbuchananracing]

Nah...they get dirty. All I can say is just clean and keep it lubed often. But its a chain, its meant to get a lil dirty.

[@Davidlouis3]

Great detailed video

[@stefipower]

Thanks man 🔝👏

[@eo2189]

I have just a small crack on the side of one of my rivet pins... do i have to change master link? What is your opinion, thanks...

[@nickbuchananracing]

In my "professional" opinion, yea you should change it out, would I not personally not ride my bike if its a small crack? Id, still ride it around while I wait for a new link in the mail.

[@ahamedkhan232]

Can you simply press out a cracked masterlink. Or do I need to grind it down before removing my mistake?

[@nickbuchananracing]

id just grind it unless its super messed up. its just about not bending the push pin on your chain tool. not worth damaging your tool.

[@johnhass1084]

Nice explanation

[@nickbuchananracing]

Thanks john

[@shinecustomstravisswedziak8814]

Can I just buy a clip master. They have never failed me since I was 9 years old to 40 yrs old. I’ve never had a clip style fail in all my years even in sand mud and dirt n water.

[@ahamedkhan232]

Great video

[@lewistodd5422]

is there a chain width tolerance? my plates outside to outside i keep getting 18.90mm - 19.8mm. is this ok?

[@petarzafirov7274]

Am I the only one who noticed the pinched oring on the masterlink? You pressed the two plates too much and pinched the oring. I will be surprised if it lasts more than 1000 km. Nice video nevertheless

[@nickbuchananracing]

Post the timestamp. Ill look at it. Sometimes trying to film and work I miss little details. Ill take a look if you post the spot where you saw a messed up o ring. I raced this motorcycle and did track days on it for a lot of time with no issues. However that could be due to the fact that its a race bike and I clean and adjust the chain damn near every time I rode it

[@petarzafirov7274]

15:39 please correct me if I’m wrong because I usually replace the masterlink if this happens and I don’t know if it’s necessary. How was the oring after some mileage. Probably they get in pace when you spin the chain.

[@Sahonline-dp2js]

Hi Nick! What kit chain brand you recommand for mi Suzuki vz 800 Marauder 1998

[@nickbuchananracing]

@@Sahonline-dp2js RK and DID are both good brands ai personally have used

[@Sahonline-dp2js]

@@nickbuchananracing JT Is ok?

[@am1BOTEA]

man, you should start narating stories, I have not had patience like thi in a while

[@demetrimusic283]

Thank You!

[@nickbuchananracing]

youre welcome !

[@fa7842]

@fa7842 vor 5 Minuten Perfect demonstration thank you! -It is possible to install a `Clip Type Master Link`on every motorbike no matter how many ccm they have?

[@nickbuchananracing]

The clip type must be the correct link for the chain, they must match, not every model chain offers a clip type link. Also as for if its ok to use clip link on bigger bikes, that goes by what the chain is rated for, usually will give a max cc rating. Refer to that for if its strong enough for your bike

[@fa7842]

@@nickbuchananracing Thank you very much!

[@ToddtheLoneDroner]

Sweet dude thanks a lot

[@nickbuchananracing]

youre welcome. 👍

[@SarjanaObeng]

My chain still looks good and only run for about 3000km, but it rusty and about 10 years in life time. The sprockets also still very good condition, but It has uneven chain slack. Loose and tight. Do I have to replace them or can I fix them?

[@nickbuchananracing]

The sprockets are just solid pieces of metal, so not much to go wrong, either they are worn or not. You say the teeth are not worn so in my opinion I would keep them if they look fine. Some people say to always replace chain and sprockets in a set but I dont think that way. If they are slightly worn then yea replace them with a new chain but if they are not worn at all just keep them. As for the chain, even though it hasnt been used much, the amount of time its been sitting will rust it and if it is a sealed chain( has o-rings) then the seals get old. Your chain needs to be replaced. What kind of bike is it for

[@SarjanaObeng]

@@nickbuchananracing Hi Nick thanks for reply. Yeah, the sprocket looks as good as new, I Also think the rusts got the chain so each chain piece don't act the same anymore. I intend to replace all of them. My bike is two strokes Kawasaki Ninja 150 RR (K150RR).

[@SarjanaObeng]

@@nickbuchananracing I changed the chain and yes, it is good to go now! I use the tools like your, thanks! Here are the video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqqzm4x8bramd6M

[@Beanszo]

was the chain the right size out of the box? did you modify it?

[@nickbuchananracing]

It was the right size for my bike

[@Beanszo]

@@nickbuchananracing thanks for the response! I see so many other people cutting theirs so it gets confusing when watching tutorials

[@Clearanceman2]

Man, I did a rivet the first time and after a month the master link came off the rivets failed. It left me stranded and nicked my case and tore up the sprockets which also had a 1000 miles. Trying to avoid a repeat.

[@nickbuchananracing]

Bummer. I hope this video helps!

[@lewistodd5422]

how tight did you do the link? in terms of rivet flare size and width of link plates compared to the others?

[@Clearanceman2]

@@lewistodd5422 The stock rivets on the other links are .3mm. The internet says .4mm-.7mm. The box the Vortex kit came in said as long as the rivet heads are bigger than the shaft of the rivet it's good. .3mm has held up well so far for a few hundred miles. If you flare it too much the rivet head will crack and come off. But on this combo .3mm was plenty. I flared it three times to get that big. So it's probably bigger than it really needs to be even at .3mm but it's shape is good, thickness is good, no signs of cracks. You need to check it after the first 100 miles for sure. Usually if it looks OK then it will be OK but I checked mine again a few hundred miles later and again a few hundred miles later. You don't want the rivet heads to break for sure.

[@lewistodd5422]

@@Clearanceman2 any idea on the plates width of the chain? my 525 is 19.7 i beleive but ive gone potentially down to 19mm

[@Clearanceman2]

@@lewistodd5422 Not sure this is the kit I got Kawasaki ZX600E ZX-6 93-05 Vortex 530 Chain and Sprocket Kit 16-48 Tooth CK4121

[@maxounette-jv7dj]

thank you for this video, my chain seems to be already worn out after 9000 km despite being regularly lubricated. Let's hope it will be better with an RK chain. Still wondering if I buy the rivet tool or buy a clip master link.

[@nickbuchananracing]

Buy a rivet link for sure. Its peace pf mind to know its not coming apart ever. I have a separate video focused on how to rivet a master link. If it helps you check my channel and search how to replace master link.

[@maxounette-jv7dj]

@@nickbuchananracing thank you, I'll stop being cheap and buy the tool :D

[@Clasq_GOD]

Hey how many links did you get for this bike?

[@nickbuchananracing]

106 links for my 14 ninja 300. In case youre asking because of sprocket set ups, I was running a 13/42 sprocket set up at the time of filming this video, now I'm running a 14/44 and can still use the 106 link chain. However, anything larger than a 14/44 set up will require a longer chain.

[@georgeday5901]

After placing the pin tighten the nut onto pin so it wont pull out (R pin)

[@nickbuchananracing]

@@georgeday5901 i dont tighten the nut against the pin because if the pin is loose i know my nut hasnt backed out any, if its a stug fit you dont know if its tight from being tightened against the nut or loosened against the nut. The R pin you speak of has never come out after countless hours on track. Just not an issue

[@Darkman79]

Did I miss you sayin' to grind off pin head before breaking chain?

[@nickbuchananracing]

yes. for my tool is recommends grinding down the rivet head before breaking the chain for chain sizes 520 and larger. which is basically any motorcycle chain. this is to not cause too much stress on the breaking pin tool. use a drimmel, grinder, or maybe a file.

[@emmettturner9452]

Covered at 2:30 but I’d rather just use throw-away Harbor Freight “heavy duty” chain breakers for this part and replace if I break one. Granted, they doubled in price over the years but I still have a few. With a sale plus coupon they still come close (used to be under eight bucks).

[@josephjoestar5444]

Could u just drill out the rivet is that a method

[@nickbuchananracing]

yea. heck u could just cut it with a saw or grinder. but wanted to show how to break chain if anyone needed to know.

[@emmettturner9452]

A drill bit will walk/wander and there’s no good way to set up a drill press or guide or whatever while the chain is on the bike.

[@matthewowens9601]

If you drill thing for a living yes but a laymen probably will have to hard of a time drilling the rivet.

[@georgeday5901]

Its a split pin not a cotter pin

[@jayhines6078]

Ha, wouldve sucked to get that Dremel caught n wound up in that blanket... Damn 😮

[@nickbuchananracing]

I won't say it hasn't happened before, lol.

[@rickingraham4451]

Exellent content

[@nickbuchananracing]

thanks

[@rubo1964]

Using the tip for pressing is NOT the right way.They sale a plate with 2 holes you line it up and turn slowly.This way both sides are evenly pressed.This ghetto version is prone to fail then you have to order another rivet link at 10 dollars and wait 5days...Do it right 1st time buy the correct tool!

[@nickbuchananracing]

this is how bikemaster intended for it to be used...it works just fine....please calm your tits sir.

[@canyncarvr]

Your video is wrong. How it is wrong was pointed out by @rubo1964 but his comment was not responded to. You seat the side plate using the rivet tool with the rivet flare pin installed. That is completely bogus. Look at 11:56 which shows the wrong setup. The wrong assembly of the tool is prior to that time stamp. The flare pin is REMOVED, the side plate is seated using the flat of the other pin, the hole IN that piece fits OVER the protruding rivet pin. Hard to believe that this video has been running for two years with all sorts of kudos...and it is WRONG. PLEASE, folks. Read the instructions that hopefully come with any chain riveting tool. There are other vids that show the correct way; 'Five Tips for using a chain breaker tool' is one of them. At least, use some common sense. Use the riveting tip to seat the side plate? That HAS to strike ANYone as being wrong.

[@nickbuchananracing]

Many people pointed it out, my shitty bikemaster tool doesnt have a proper press plate, I've said in many comments to use your tool as the directions say. Ive since found a way to do it better with the tool i have, had i expected my video to get so many views i probably.would have bought a different tool and done it better. Your comment wasnt responded to because i work everyday and have shit to do. 95% of the video is good, i fucked up on one part. Make your own video if you want to do it better.

[@canyncarvr]

@@nickbuchananracing The problem is that the video is wrong, dangerously wrong. The 'one part' you 'f'd up' could kill someone. A chain going to pieces is easily a recipe for making someone dead. No exaggeration. Imagine an instantly locked up rear wheel at 70mph because the chain bunched up in the crankcase cover and locked up the countershaft. That so many responders indicated they 'learned something' is sad, a comment on the ignorance of people in general. That's fine...until a misguided, WRONG 'how to' that is blindly followed kills someone. Your tool would work by removing the flare-pin insert and using the press plate to seat the side plate. It's not the tool that is the problem. The problem in this case is the person using the tool in an incorrect fashion.

[@Pace00713]

The split pin at the end is solid advice but not all bikes have them

[@nickbuchananracing]

Thats what most of us use for track bikes for easy tire changes. Yea most bikes have cotter pins but if you have a castle nut, you can go buy a split pin to fit. I have heard that in other countries they mandate using different style axle nuts too, so if thats the case, you would have to get a castle nut and split pin. Thanks for watching.

[@lotzollectie8052]

chain

[@richardobrien9538]

Not right in so many ways..

[@STRANGE_hour]

You are throwing it away. Quit being neurotic and cut the chain off.

[@nickbuchananracing]

@@STRANGE_hour yea u can just cut it off w a grinder. But i will say, its good to know how to shorten a chain though.

[@magna116]

This guy is pressing the side plate on wrong. Improper use of the tool. Using the die with the bulge is going to flex the plate as it is being pressed on. Bulge is for flaring rivets only.

[@anthonynieves6614]

Bro your rivets doesn't have to be exact same thing as factory ones so dont waste time

[@nickbuchananracing]

Well BRO...thats just how I like to do it. Plus i found out that most good chain brands actually do have a spec so now i just go by there recommended flare size. But I get what u saying. However telling someone in a "how to" video to flare it till it looks right doesnt really help anyone for shit if they dont know what "right" is.

[@vanillaglue]

Another video said .5mm to .7mm more than what you started with! So if you start woth 5mm, rivet to 5.5-5.7mm diameter.

[@TheRolfano]

Nice job!

[@nickbuchananracing]

thanks!