Did We Just MESS Up The Articulation Geometry??

[@byronwilde8674]

Tapping threads works lots better with cutting oil

[@WelkerFarms]

@@byronwilde8674 I knew I should have grabbed the oil 😁

[@michaelsnow3113]

@@WelkerFarms Taps are like drill bits, they can be sharpened.

[@edwardscott3262]

In my experience just use whatever you have handy if you can't tap in a machine with flood coolant. Everyone has their own special sauce for hand tapping. They all pretty much work equally well. Even things like lard and crisco.

[@ihdieselman]

​@@WelkerFarmsalso there are taps specially made for starting holes. They are much easier to start than your standard tap

[@motor2of7]

Taps work best when you thread a turn or two, then thread backwards to break the chips off

[@garrett8994]

I hate to say it but I think you should move the axle back, you’re going through all of this effort to build this, do it right. You don’t want to be tearing it apart if something does mess up. Also that extra space will give you room for your ladder, will also help the over all proportions of the tractor

[@TerryAnderson-k7e]

I was taught to tap, turn 1/2 turn, then reverse 1/4 turn to clean the tool. Cutting oil is needed for extending tool life and reduce friction.

[@kylekuntz5302]

The "flexible" bottom step used on newer machines would work for the added height. They have the added benefit if you bury the tractor in the mud you don't tear everything up.

[@SomeTechGuy666]

I'd put the cab on air ride while you have it off. Either hinge it in the front and put air bags in the back like a highway tractor cab is done or use the air isolators (air struts) from a Freightliner Cascadia that isolate the entire cab, all 4 corners.

[@DonVDBorgh]

When you get the unit finished, need to run it over a scale and see how much weight has been added from when it was new. Great job, enjoy watching you guys fabricate 👍👍

[@Zogg1281]

If you decide that you do need to move the back axle back by 2" and you decide to do it at the "centre hinge pin" (aka "Monster").... it would also give you some extra space for the ladder 🤔

[@bulldog19751995]

I'm thinking the same, to give you the room for the ladder and solve any steering geometry issues that might come up, also, for the front fender ladder, simply put a couple lengths of chain on a tread and weld that to the bottom of the existing step. KISS system at its finest

[@jcsciutto]

Use some oil on the tap. Much easier to cut and longer tool life.

[@wesadrian6981]

Just build the ladder up the front fender. A few steps and a hand-guard rail. Get rid of the one between the axles

[@walterbickel7962]

Just like coby gets on

[@AIr5tatI0n]

this is a good idea... i am all for it.. im not a farmer or a educated engineer. i would meke 1 ladder on the front with a bendi lower end when u get stuck "if u do".

[@Kangenpower7]

I don't know if I want to walk past that 200F radiator on a hot day, when the temperature can get really hot! Yes I can see that being a really safe way, except for the hot radiator. Also they have to get in the cab on a day where there might be ice too.

[@johndowe7003]

​@@Kangenpower7 grow a pair 😂

[@Marty1985class]

You could design the ladder to fold up above the pinch point. I guess it depends on how often you use the ladder.

[@lightningsaviation5130]

Always look forward to seeing progress on the bud. Amazing work you guys

[@tireballastserviceofflorid7771]

With all that new performance. You guys should think about precision ballasting. When it's all done and fully fueled. All 4 corners get weighed, and then Rim Guard preferably is added to make all 4 corners weigh the same. And the whole machine can have wight added to the recommended level for the power you will be putting down. By limiting slippage as much as possible, it saves a little fuel, but it really saves wear and tear on the drive train. If you have any interest, let me know. Rim Guard might just be willing to help out. It's truly worth it on the kind of equipment you guys run.

[@anzacday4141]

@tireballastserviceofflorid7771 !!!!!!!!!!!!! Correct. Weight Distribution AND Balance is critical for many reasons. Performance of all tractor components, wear, safety AND getting the Power through the transmission to the ground.

[@tireballastserviceofflorid7771]

@anzacday4141 You are very correct. Especially in small tractors..

[@lynwessel2471]

4wd tractors are generally weighted 60% front 40% rear to obtain equal ground pressure when actually pulling which makes the front end tend to rise up. Should be about 6-8 % slippage at full load. Eliminating slip entirely is tough on the drive train.

[@tireballastserviceofflorid7771]

@lynwessel2471 I was not giving a class. Just a quick summary. If you notice the channel name. Ballasting is what I do.

[@michaeltablet8577]

I'm loving watching this tractor come back to life! Absolutely excellent!

[@brucebiehn2123]

Nick when tapping a hole turn forward 1/4 to 1/3 turn then backwards the same amount this breaks the chip. Also use some cutting oil or rapid tap.

[@robault6086]

Hey Nick, I know 4 flute taps are for hand tapping. But 3 flute taps are much easier to use and will curl the shaving, so you are fighting it as much. We have taps at work that are twisted kinda like a drill, and bring shaving out just like a drill . Those are great to use.

[@jeffreykoldyk3106]

I love the spiral flute taps! I have tack welded a nut on taps before that are worn on the drive end. Seemed to work good for me!

[@CrewGuyPJ]

Ive been pondering the geometry for awhile. The turning radius of the front half will be slightly larger, as the "point of rotation" of the front half was moved back. (less than 1/2") Assuming Buds werent built with any kind of torque split, the rear will follow the front easier than if the rear axle had been moved back. Also, considering the back half of the Bud will be stressed with an air cart/drill or a grain cart hanging off it, the effects should be minimal.

[@ginggur17]

I love watching you guys work stuff out. Hats off to you all as always. 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👍👍👍🇬🇧🇺🇸

[@Cheeser1764]

Lots of good information in the responses (by guys way smarter than me) but whether you choose to go the 2” spacer route or not, I’d highly suggest removing those four bolts for the shaft and putting that separately into the new bushing and tightening up the lock nut that way. I bet that’s how the factory did it, it will minimize re-damaging those threads and it will make it easier to realign up to that gearbox.

[@Dan.Whiteford]

Suggestion for the cab access. The American military for aircraft pilots have made use of a single stem ladder design which mechanically telescopes 3/5 sections into one shortish length, top hung, that stands out at an angle from the aircraft skin when extended for the pilot to climb to the cockpit - it disappears into a "pocket" when placed in the raised position . Each section has a hand grip / footstep welded on alternate sides to the extending leg. Somehow or other the leg can be extended or closed either from the cab area or from the ground level. If you are interested I will try and identify the video that shows this device in use. For the steps in front of the front wheel could you consider steps made using shortish lengths of heavy chain with some links welded together with quality tread plates attached at 10 inch intervals together with a suitable handgrips for folks getting on or off the working platform alongside the engine. I think that the main access door for the cab would be better if it was a "suicide" style door with rear hinges / front edge opening. Surely a longer chassis length would be good as it would allow a tighter turning radius and perhaps a more nimble and manoeuvrable machine? (I'm assuming it would not likely have independent brakes to assist sharp turns).

[@lynwessel2471]

Suggestion: dont park with it turned short.

[@alexveldhuis6004]

Volvo's articulated haulers have an exagerated version of 'one side being longer that the other' and that does not seem to pose a problem. The issue is perhaps that on your Bud there, the longer side is the front, not the rear. It will steer somewhat different to your other Buds, but you'll soon get used to it. The guidance system on the other hand.......No, it should be fine.

[@michaelstark703]

Ladder over fender makes sense, but might impede Coby from his runs! Great work on the “gangsta bud”

[@PaulLorenzini-ny2yw]

Thanks for the great show! Better then Hollywood! not even close

[@larrydavidson3402]

Things are progressing, nice to see that you're beefing up a few weak points. The mounts that Scott built look like they came from the factory and the cab mounts that Nick made are a great idea. Will make cab removal easier for sure.

[@IronDragonSC]

If it’s not an issue with articulated 6 wheel dump trucks I tend to doubt it’ll be an issue in the application.

[@lynwessel2471]

Wonder if they measured to see if it was exact to begin with.

[@theafro]

Just spent the day drilling and tapping holes in a bit of machinery (about 60 of them!) so I quite enjoyed watching you struggle and suffer! Made me feel much better about my abilities! It really is baffling why there isn't a mag-drill in that shop of yours, I never leave home without mine! Smug comments aside, she's coming together nicely, won't be long now!

[@leolarocque-v5v]

Good job Guy's , lots work on that big Buds 740 .

[@geraldsundberg3610]

I don't believe you would ever notice the difference with the rear ends being unequal with only two inches difference! If you are that concerned put the spacers in there now since it's all apart.

[@WelkerFarms]

That's what we think, on a tractor this size and never being on pavement we should never see an issue articulating.

[@corriedalefarm]

If u add the sapces in wpuld this alsonhelp with the clearance for the wheels when turning ​@@WelkerFarms

[@brianallen7798]

The 2+2 tractors were made to be different lengths from the pivot points

[@hughperkins707]

@@WelkerFarmsI doubt whether it will be a problem. 👍

[@jameshansen7092]

It won’t be an issue. 2 inches radius on a circle that size is minor. In the real world the front and rear slippage will share the error and reality only be an inch difference per axle as the ground sees it. The cab mounts on the 525 aren’t so hot either 🙃

[@jcr2871]

Awesome watching your Family work together,Cheers from Toronto.

[@TomStp]

Extending the front axle will increase the load on the upper bearing of the articulation, by adding weight up front the way you do it will decrease that same extra pressure. The reason they try to even it out is more about weight distribution than anything else in my opinion. Trying to even out the ground pressure by distributing as much weight to both axle. Now I would suggest if you have access to such thing to weight the tractor at the end to see the weight distribution and try to even it out to release stress on the articulation and even it out. For turning the axle when they are not lock will just take the speed difference. But I would look if the turning radius will affect the speed differential enough between the front and rear axle, that could influence and create some binding up in the divider box for exemple if the axle are lock. If it’s an open differential aren’t lock my guess would be that the speed difference won’t matter.

[@lynwessel2471]

Generally 4wd tractors are weighted 60% front 40% rear so maybe 58/42 for this one .

[@lynwessel2471]

They're open diffs.

[@XavierAncarno]

It’s time for me to subscribe. Been following this build since yt recommended the first vid . Cheers from France 🇫🇷

[@WelkerFarms]

@@XavierAncarno welcome aboard!

[@graemerussell315]

Nick, it’s good that you think about everything, but the two inches difference will only change the tracking if the rear section in that it won’t follow exactly in the fronts tracks, but you won’t notice it at all. I would’ve added half a metre onto the rear section to add an extra fuel and fire fighting and, hydraulic tanks etc. change would be weigh difference but the water and fuel will bring back to specs.

[@Rumblestrip]

Very cool project watching you guys put this Big Bud (in name only) together... This machine definitely has your own personal touches on it. Im excited to see how ya make it stand out from the crowd when its done... Definitely a one of a kind just like the 747... Im hoping it stands out on the outside too when your done

[@clydefuoss1656]

Is there a way to airbag the cab? Bags in the back of the cab like big trucks. 🤔🤔🤔

[@paullawrence3541]

Why not do away with the steps between the axles and instead have a walkway beside the engine and down the front much like many current machines.

[@diersirrigation]

That's mainly tracked machines.

[@littlelifters7543]

Order a couple of under deck pull out ladders for trucks for your front corners.

[@challenger3603]

Personally like most off-road equipment here in New England just weld yourself up a pair of chain steps. It's exactly as it sounds the steps are made out of chains. Weld the link's solid so they form a straight line and then the sides are welded semi-rigid so they can still flex and swing that way if you bump into something the chain steps fold under and cause no damage or if they get torn off it's not that much of a loss and you can rapidly make new ones. Or you can make steps out of 3/4-in cable but from experience chain steps are a lot nicer and they sort of clean your boot treads if you angle them right.

[@gypsyjack49]

Nick the front step, you have plenty of worn out roller chain laying around use it as an extension to the ground it will flop out of the way if you touch anything. It works well.

[@tbrown4674]

You could make the cab air ride. Set it up just like a semi cab or even similar to peterbilt sleepers air ride.

[@bobmahnamahknob]

Coming right along. Can't wait to see it done.

[@mikeharmon4193]

3 group 31 batteries will give more cranking amps than 2 8Ds and take a lot less space. on the ladder run a pipe up the middle with steps up each side

[@--_DJ_--]

A lot more manageable too. Those 8Ds are miserable to move around.

[@stuartroland9605]

Rebuild is looking great.🤩👍👍

[@remmiemax3624]

Over-Build is a good thing 😎👍 I agree with Gerald, only 2" and it's appart...go for it! God Bless✝

[@SemiErnie]

Being around equipment and having another one around is great for what you're doing to this bud , coping from the other helps . Love watching the hands on building this bud , course that's what I've done to semi's .

[@ianmarcossavegnago]

I have a couple thouts on the articulation of the Bud. First is that doing the spacer on the shaft the way you said on 8:35 will move the front anothe 2 in forward, to move the back 2 in the spacer will be needed on the back saction an the shaft will be needed to be increased the 2 in. The other spacer will go as you said. Second in relation on what the diference will make, the only thing that a see is that it will be more easy to bind the articulation going full steer, the reason for this is if you draw a line on the center of the axels and on the midle of the hinge on the normal Bud when you go full steer the the angle that the lines on the axel makes with the one on the hinge will be the same. On the new bud the back will have a shallower angle, meaning that the rear can dig in. But i don´t think that it will cause that because the tires will touch before that happens. Sorry for any misspellings, ingles is not my main language.

[@bruceduncan9065]

Using tapping. Fluid works better tapping!! 😊

[@ka7zpw]

Replace your fixed ladder with a flexible ladder made out of really heavy cable. Our local utility uses them on the rear of their boom trucks. That way if a tire hits it, it just flexes out of the way. It would work really well on the front fender as well.

[@stevemccoy8138]

You guy's are awesome, its gonna be something special. Thanks. 😊

[@kennywiesemann4959]

keep up the great work. Is is coming to the farm progress show next year.

[@philippreuter5192]

Don't put the ladders on the side, just put steps on the fender and enter from the front

[@nzcyclone]

That looks really good. It is great watching this come along. While it appears to be slow going one day it will suddenly all go together and it will be WOW. As far as the cab suspension goes although too late now. You have that old truck you have been raiding parts off. You possibly could have raided the cab suspension off it and then just welded it into place on the big bud. (assuming it had cab suspension but assume it does of some sort) Keep safe and keep warm :)

[@RedDanger-wf1lo]

They make socket adapters for taps. Each socket adapter is meant for a range of sizes. Great tools, use them daily, and affordable

[@Andrewlang90]

Enough people have said it already about oil and tapping. My $0.03 is the you can chuck up a Chamfer mill to break the edges of the hole before tapping it to make the seat initially better and feed straight

[@wssides]

Or just a drill bit 2 sizes larger?

[@revert2625]

You could easily fab up an air ride cab suspension with your tools and toys! Here you folks are building this amazing machine that most if not all your viewers would never even consider attempting, and you drew the line at air ride? Lol! I get it! And you can do that anytime! Keep up the great work! God Bless America!

[@mowerjeff8990]

Coming along don’t forget when you do the front step on the left fender your dad has to be able to get Colby up there.

[@ileenmcminn2062]

Talk to the engineers at Big Bud about moving the front axel 2".

[@johngreydanus2033]

Yeah, surely someone has original drawings and engineering, didn't they use CAD software back then?

[@lynwessel2471]

​​​@@johngreydanus2033I think they pretty much lost everything in the big fire. They had lists of sources for every non Big Bud part that they gave to customers etc. But Im sure they can answer that question. A lot of work was done in the early years to get them to turn smoothly.

[@johngreydanus2033]

@@lynwessel2471 Yeah, that's right, I forgot, I'm so far away. I don't see it as a huge problem myself, the heaviest pull load will be in a straight line anyway, not on the turnings.

[@lynwessel2471]

@@johngreydanus2033 It think they'll be fine, if not it can be corrected. Tractors with triples or Ive even seen quads, there's all kinds of scuffing and sliding of tires going on when they turn.

[@Bobo-fi]

This tractor project is crazy. What a way to spend your winter. Good luck fellows.

[@a05223]

I’ll check out those welds on the cab mount when this tractor ends up at the next farm progress show. 😮

[@WelkerFarms]

@@a05223 we'll have mandatory foggy glasses for anyone who wants to see the tractor...

[@robward7662]

Put the spacer on the pivot, will help with the step problem also.

[@GeraldLovelace-h5r]

Love your engineering of the Big Bud

[@katskratchkustumz]

16:11 who needs a mag drill......you do.....🤣🤣 Lovin the build!

[@diersirrigation]

Legarms is all about precision, Nick is the "that's good enough " guy!

[@jeffwagamon5140]

Those new mounts look like rear engine mounts off your Ford straight trucks.

[@clintonemmert5184]

Can’t wait to see the end results. I know you guys love the Big Buds, this one is been modified the Welker’s Way. So it SHOULD have the Welkers colors paint job on it. Make it Welker unique. 👍👍👌👍👍

[@claudreindl7275]

This build is far more interesting than a resto-mod on a sports car!

[@bennyfactr6122]

more than enough slip in the soil to make up for the offset. With the increase in tire height, in addition to the 2" offset, you will see a slight/negligible increase in axial load on the front bearings.

[@TheBest-ob1kj]

Your getting there!❤

[@samwest9444]

9:00 get a machine shop to spit some spacer plates out and boot them in.

[@jamiefontenotJamie]

Use some WD forty when tapping the holes also you need a starter tap

[@badgerpa9]

Make sure your ladder is set up for Coby to get up and down, he needs to go and manage things so he can badger the hares and speed goats.

[@brandocommando3025]

keep pumping out the episodes!!!

[@chrislongbeard]

Id put a retractable ladder on the front. Might also work for the center. Look at white water marine for ideas. As for the center wait until you are done and see where everything ends up.

[@chesterarnold5975]

The tractor is becoming Welkerized!!

[@douglasskersick9598]

Hey guys great videos...How about putting air bags on the cab?...easy peasy...lol

[@Ryder_757]

I love your vid keep up the good work love from Australia ❤

[@seanmarr6029]

That is going to be one bad bud. Keep it going, be safe. I would love to see it when you are done.🇨🇦

[@quentinbaher4967]

You should put a folding ladder on the front of the tractor to get all the ground clearance you’d ever need and then the ladder could be longer to make it better to climb

[@kennyburgess1756]

Drill and tread holes in the bracket so you can use a slide hammer to pull bracket off if you need too

[@ernestrhoades5147]

Get some tap socket's ,i think mine are Lisle and then use your electric impact to drive the taps ,and a little tapping fluid would not hurt you either.

[@timothyheward1448]

I used to think an air ride seat was good enough. Now with passengers and all the expensive electronics having an air ride cab is almost a must.

[@Mystibowman-yg2oj]

I love your videos so much. I watch them every day 24 seven I watch them all the time you guys do such a good work

[@chrisaquaro9901]

I think with the ladder situation, might be best to put steering stops like they have eoth front end loaders that way you guys can have a nice and safe ladder. Just depends on how much you guys are thinking you'll be at full turn.

[@Jrs-tl4kk]

The only problem that would come about with the back not spaced 2" would maybe be on uneven ground, or going up hills, otherwise I don't think it would be a problem, when it's uneven or having to flex at the pivot point I would say it might put more pressure on the back half, but otherwise I don't think it would be a problem. And as far as ladders go, check out the design of the Freightliner cabovers, like the FLT's they had a V shaped ladder, they of course are made from tubing, and not square tubing, but would give a reference maybe, tractors looking good, and coming together nicely

[@allenhiemenz1439]

Great Job you guys are awesome I wish I could be their to help can hardly wait for the next video!

[@shaelondekok7842]

You should try set the cab on air bags.

[@2010utube100]

Awesome work, as we are used to seeing frome you guys!!! You need a mag drill!!! EBAY has alot of ones which work very well, especially when you consider they are $300 compared to $1,000 + for brand names. Annular cutters are where the money goes.

[@calebgalbreath0198]

Keep up the great work and stay safe and please put new stickers on the kta 525

[@smedleypdolittle]

@Welker Farms, you guys should look into a mag base drill press, and annular cutter’s! That will save time! I never use a drill press, anymore.

[@charlieconnor1490]

Safety glasses?

[@DV-mj5yi]

You should put some airbags on you cab mounts so you have cab suspension

[@greggb1416]

Nick, that shaft in the pivot, might be called a “trunnion”…? I have no idea, and it don’t matter, just popped into my mind. Loving this build series. Thank you sir.

[@mnbednar8071]

Moving along nicely.

[@379insk]

As others have said think id run the ladder up the front and have air ride cab. Cab b alot of work but your in pretty deep already. Looks like a good build though.

[@jimkavalier2831]

Going be a beast of a tractor!

[@warrenhuntley6110]

The build is very interesting love watching the build

[@jame3shook]

one engineer I met said "engineering is common sense; specifications gives something for the lawyers to argue over."

[@jdlowesracer]

creating a 2in spacer in the 2 pivot mounts would be the least labor intensive and solve the driveline/steering and the ladder problem in one step

[@smachzman]

Taps have the required drill size printed on them… at least every one I’ve ever used does. Also like was already said 1/2 turn in then back out 1/4 turn and use oil

[@KarlPoorbaugh]

Look at a logging forwarder. The axles are very different distances from center.

[@JSchrumm]

The PTO driveline will have to articulate in the center also.

[@Brewdog2001]

I am thinking the other benefit of using the spacers for the back half is that buys you 2 inches of clearance for your steps by the time you are are a full lock turn, but that is just based off watching your video without measurements.

[@kylekuntz5302]

I don't believe the pivot point to axle distance is an issue, although it will change your weight distribution. The most critical issue is the u-joint position front and rear. All the shafts crossing over the center pivot must match each other in length and centerline. The u-joint themselves on each shaft must be equal in distance, front and rear of the upper and lower pivots.