Building Great Soil Starts with Adding Plants (Don't Overthink It!)

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[@iamorganicgardening]

Roots of all plants till the soil for FREE and grow soil feeding those amazing microbes. Nature is always correct. Great Video.

[@chrischandler3041]

I love your videos too, I AM ORGANIC GARDENING! :-)

[@ciftcibabam4778]

Your videos are very informative too. Thanks

[@49testsamiam49]

havent seen you in a while

[@regeneratetheland293]

♡ How can you not love nature? ♡

[@matthewfarrell317]

Something that I think you missed, was not just plants, but different plants with different rootzones. Your plants if I remember, should have 1 metre deep (3ft) root depth, can't remember the spread. That's good but what's better is a multi-zone plan. I'll use our newly planted orchard as an example (the last trees arrive today via mail lol) We have 2 large gum trees close to the orchard. They have root zones around the 3m to 4m mark (9ft to 12ft), our fruit trees, that are dwarf varieties, will have roots in the 2m-3m range (6ft - 9ft), we will plant pumpkins, watermelons and peas that all have 1m deep roots (3ft) and I have blackberries, raspberries and strawberries for the around 30cm range or 1ft. We are building soil from wherever the roots touch. The key is the trees always has been, most trees have deeper roots, and those roots can get to things most other things can't and bring those nutrients etc up and bring soil building blocks back down and the kicker, you don't need many of them to see a benefit.

[@forrighteousness]

I agree I've had wood chips in one part of my yard as a sheet mulch for about 2 years now. In another part of my yard, there are wood chips around a hedge of mine, the soil is loaded of worms and the wood chips are breaking down way faster and they've only been there for about 2 months now.

[@normedwards5305]

Add some chickens, everybody is happy with that!

[@Impaletheadl]

That's amazing knowledge brother. The plant sustains the soils fertility.

[@rodneyjack3309]

Love this video! When we started draining surface water by spraying compost tea on hay crops we knew we were effecting root growth. I had a wierd thought this year so I tried it. I urinated in a watering can and added water and molasses and watered with it. I didn't messure it but it looked like about a 2" growth over night. We are missing something simple here.

[@oldchild527]

The urea it's really good for soil, I'm afraid am a bit shy to do it but gotta say since I have the menstrual cup I'm curious on to using the blood for compost...

[@eddluireg]

Thank you

[@rickthelian2215]

I use most of my vegetables beds in winter here in Australia, over summer very little, I allowed grass to grow over unused beds. Prior to this the soil just became a dust and looked exhausted, but allowing grass growing over it in the summer allows a nice soil structure that holds water and nutrients.

[@dystopiagear6999]

I'm with you and I Am Organic Gardening... I'm all about letting roots do the work and just trying to allow living soil to develop and thrive. I haven't bought salt-based fertilizers in three years now; I buy cover crop seeds instead. It costs less, it's much less trouble in the long run and it just plain works *better*.

[@davidsawyer1599]

"Don't over think it!" Words to live by. Frankly I don't monitor my escapades enough. How ever if there are difficulties or failures that's when I drill down. Diego is doing all my homework for me anyway! Thanks Diego.

[@davidhalfaday844]

Diego, I'm really starting to enjoy your videos. I like how you're testing everything. I feel like i'm on the same page as you with trying things as I study more. My garden this year was an epic fail in my book, and I'm not sure this next year will be any better to be honest, as I'm trying another approach. I'm not sure if you know who Dr. Elaine Ingham is but she has a bunch of videos about soil microbiology, and how to grow things, and what you're saying here is almost what she says. It is because of that I'm trying my new approach. I'm planting perennial rye grass in a part of my garden I just spread out some fill dirt. My goal is to get the rye grass to grow deep roots, then plant other plants in rows. Anyway keep up the good work.

[@CyberSERT]

He knows Dr Elaine Ingham. He interviewed her. I found out about her on Diego's channel.

[@darylpreston7505]

New to your channel. I'm doing container gardening using promix peat moss with mycorrhizal and perlite included from the manufacturer. From what I've read this is an inert medium I assume to mean zero microbes, fungi, bacteria etc in said soil. What amendment should I use to add beneficial bacteria fungi nematodes microbes and so on? Thank you.

[@xuyahfish]

I couldn't make much compost, so I added dissolved alfalfa, 2-3 yr old wood chips to raised boxes. When I transplant my starts, I'll mix in a little of what compost I have. I hope that'll work. 🤷‍♀️ The woods chips have broken down a lot & have mycelium all over them. I tossed bloodmeal on top in case they deplete the nitrogen. I'm also supplementing a little water-soluble fertilizer bc I tested & I don't have low nitrogen & Potassium (tested in Feb in zone 6). Next fall I'll grow garlic, hairy vetch & something else as a cover crop.

[@donrad]

Excellent analysis👍 Another factor that very few people are aware of is that plants will pass on in the genes within their seeds the ability to thrive in the immediate local soil biology and climate. So that if you save seeds from year to year, the succession of plants will always be far superior to plants grown from purchased seeds. Many factors such as disease resistance, climatic adaptation, microbiome symbiosis, drought tolerance, etc improve with each new generation. Human inputs, which are temporary and unsustainable disruptions, just muck things up.

[@nmeans73]

Also to add to this, the seeds are coated in the spores of fungi/bacteria from the local environment as well meaning that when they are planted, they already are inoculated with the local flora and can hit the ground running so to speak. Many of the seeds (I think organic excluded) are treated with fungicides (I think this is by law in the USA) before being packaged and sold so those seeds are not primed and ready to go like the ones saved from year to year. There's also a very interesting process called rizophagy that almost all plants partake in. The short and skinny of it is that the plants attract bacteria and fungi to the root tips via exudates, then the plants suck those microbes into the root. Once inside the root, the plant produces chemicals which strip the microbes of nutrients. Eventually, these still alive microbes are ejected back into the soil where the process repeats. I think this is worth nothing because a very important family of plants (the brassicas) have lost the ability form relationships with mycorrhizal fungi, but they still undergo this process of rizophagy.

[@chrischandler3041]

If seed saving, you need to really observe your plants and not just get all the seeds for saving. Look to save seeds from the plants that are thriving and competing early on, and also that are producing the best results in the end.

[@dystopiagear6999]

I think selecting seeds with an eye to acclimatization and all the factors you folks have mentioned is just as interesting as harvesting fruit or vegetables! For instance, in just three seasons we now have our "own" cherry tomatoes that are totally bulletproof in our little garden. I don't know if they'd do quite as well ten miles away from me or a state over, but they've developed excellent resistance to the problems we have right in this area. And all I did to "help" was just select and save seeds from only the healthiest, most productive plants. Some of the parent plants were volunteers from fallen fruit, that grew here and there. Volunteer plants are often among the hardiest, in my experience.

[@dystopiagear6999]

@@nmeans73 to your point, I've been learning about inoculating new beds, new plantings, seeds etc simply by using soil and/or plant matter that we find already in our own gardens. Much like making compost tea, but with a fistful of soil from a bed that has vigorous growth already. Or some leaf mold that you know is just teeming with life. I don't like the idea of being beholden to some factory or lab every time I want inoculants, packaged mico fungi, etc. As you illustrated, I think it's much wiser to simply culture or nurture them right where they've already adapted themselves.

[@donrad]

@@dystopiagear6999 This is basic evolution in its purest form, been going on for billions of years. Those tomatoes will still be growing there when humans become extinct.

[@saitamasthirddisciple7401]

Diego footer - UNDERRATED.

[@milkweed7678]

That was a good one, really good one! It would be interesting to see what a soil test would report right there. Thanks for sharing!

[@DiegoFooter]

Soil tests can be limiting in terms of what they tell you, so you have to be careful in getting one off soil tests and making decisions based on one test, versus a trend of test results.

[@proteinman1981]

Your a fantastic educator, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and making these great videos.

[@saitamasthirddisciple7401]

Diego..I can see that well drained soil is also important. I have clay soil,so I need to do something like this too? Plant tree that will amend the soil? Thanks for the video,it is helpful and I can understand your point clearly

[@whatthefunction9140]

All the best soil has plants in it

[@donavinnezar]

got a portion of topsoil in my yard its like red sandlmao i let it get overgrown by weeds in my last summer and i plant on letting that happen again this summer after a little but of extra organic matter or i might just scatter sow some hrdy greens that my pets can nibble on

[@ciftcibabam4778]

Your aproach is very impressive. Also love your drawing :)

[@DiegoFooter]

Thanks!

[@creektopfarms5217]

Try using a broad fork to open up the should a bit, maybe add some innoculated biochar into the open cracks left by the broad fork.

[@tcotroneo]

Getting plants in the ground can be quite expensive! Especially when ur trying to create a diverse food forest.. I’ve tried to incorporate many of these principles.. soil testing, planting varieties of plants for my region, cover cropping, holistic foliage sprays, mulching, composting, etc.. With my approach, I expected much better results.. I’ve noticed slow growth, disease issues, poor quality fruit, dying plants, etc.. It has been quite the challenge.. I’m hoping over time the plants will get stronger and grow better as my inputs create a healthier soil..

[@BrixThePlanter]

If you add native species it’s incredibly to easy and free to add diversity and you’re bringing in the native biology that is going to thrive the most and have the best root exudates

[@chrischandler3041]

Diego.. I love your channel but I do want to ask you about your statement (0:42) where you said that "tilling" "for sure" makes things better. I thought you were strictly no-till? I was surprised by you saying that and was wondering if you could explain more what you meant by that statement. From everything I have read and seen, tilling can ruin soil structure and destroy the established soil mycorrhizae network that helps the root systems of plants overall. Any thoughts?

[@DiegoFooter]

Yes, that was a misspeak on my part, because there is nuance to the explanation. Short term, as a one-off, tilling will give you great results. Long term, as a management practice, tilling will result in worse soil.

[@chrischandler3041]

@@DiegoFooter A lot of people won't admit mistakes.. you pinned it so everyone can see! Amazing, man. Keep up the good work, bro. I am a big fan. I watch every video you make. You always deliver.. :-) Hey, any update on the Johnson Su Bioreactor?

[@chrischandler3041]

​@@DiegoFooter I will admit that I will in year one also do tilling to make a new plot. I am like you, just trying to do my best, but sometimes with not much time you have to do it! My biggest problem is with Bermuda grass and I have used tilling will help me break up the rhizomes in new ground so I can remove them.. so I guess I should not cast the first stone :-) Appreciate the awesome content!

[@szabomarton8064]

@@chrischandler3041 you guys like to bash tilling as its the devil but its not. In the soil degradation sense it only makes the soil use up the organic matter faster (with added benefits). If you are in large scale agriculture, you may not be able to offset tilling with incorporating the needed amount of compost/manure to keep soil organic matter stable - as it cuts into your profit quite heavily. This does not mean that a homesteader, home grower, or anyone with a larger profit margin would be unable to keep soil organic matter stable - with adding compost/manure. You can till twice a year if you want to, if you readd SOC, your soil will not ever suffer. Same goes with roots in the ground. Large scale agriculture needs cover crops as its too expensive to raise SOC any other way (depends on local sources!!). Does not mean that the best solution for the home grower is cover cropping. It could be, but depends heavily on context.

[@northofnowhere3611]

Szabó Márton You are correct that tillage burns through SOC, and the SOC can be amended. But that’s not the only problem with tillage. It also kills the microbes that make nutrients available to the plants and creates a hard pan compaction zone just below the depth of the plow. Losing the microbes sets soil succession back, encouraging early succession plants (aka weeds) and the hard pan prevents proper root growth and water cycling...

[@PermaPen]

Ha, terrific video, thank you! After a rather frustrating season with very challenging weather, I've decided to change my mindset to that of 'a patch of thickly-growing nature with some food plants in there somewhere.' I'm only producing for myself, and I need a low-maintenance system. So, yeah - hey! - maybe let the billion-year-old system have a try.

[@nathanlau3275]

How are perennial cover plants incorporated into a bed of annual crops?

[@normedwards5305]

Poppies punch down several inches... but then of course, you ALWAYS have Poppies. Which, in my mind is awesome!

[@saitamasthirddisciple7401]

I can see that well drained soil is also important. I have clay soil,so I need to do something like this too? Plant tree that will amend the soil? @diego footer

[@dans3718]

Is this the next experiment? I love watching your experiments. Saves me having to do them! I have a section of ground behind my house that sits underwater a lot. The construction is just finishing, and that spot was dozed, then run over by heavy equipment a bit while pad was built, and then run over and parked on by pickups and trailers, concrete trucks, etc. So, yeah, it's compacted. It was sand/clay subsoil mix mostly, but with the occasional torrential rain here in North Florida it has ended up with a clay coating that is preventing the water from soaking in as it does elsewhere on the property. It's also the lowest spot near the house (except one I made in what I hope will be my banana circle.) Watching this has made me consider just planting ryegrass or something there next time it gets dry enough. There's some sort of grassy weed that is managing growing in the water right now, maybe that is doing the work that needs doing, but can't tell so far. There has been an inch or three of standing water there for months now. If I can manage it with plants, will be cheaper than trying to have more equipment in to reshape that area a bit. It's only about 5 feet from my back patio slab so it's just too close for my liking. And if it stays that wet, mosquito breeding may be a problem, unless the local masses of tree frogs like it. Haven't seen any tadpoles so far. No a shady spot... yet. Maybe I should plant cattails... :p

[@jimbrockmann9756]

Maybe check with local farm supply store for cover crop seed. In zone six we use oat seed and scav-n-ger brand radish seed to scavenge nutrients, smother weeds, reduce compaction and stabilize the soil.

[@hgchurch175]

Any advice for "soil" that is actually a sand dune with some weeds on it (Western MI, 3 miles from Lake Michigan). Each year the sand increases and people around here say it rains sand. Runoff prevents soil from getting damp even when we have a good rain that should be soaking. I am studying permaculture solutions. I plan to plant comfy in spring, but would like to do a cover crop this fall.

[@mylesfalconer9183]

On lake erie sand plain here. You need frequent waterings like everyday in hot weather. Invest in irrigation systems. Comfrey may struggle in sand until it gets established.

[@northofnowhere3611]

You need organic matter in the soil. Plant roots are great, and animals are better. Feed some animals (preferably ruminants) on the areas you want to improve.

[@hgchurch175]

@@mylesfalconer9183 I'm planning on planting Comfrey in the spring. Thanks for the heads up.

[@hgchurch175]

@@northofnowhere3611 I'm building up my compost pile now with organic matter, and I am going to start vermiculture. There is no way I can do animals, but we do have deer coming into the yard. I wish I could have a giraffe, but could never take care of one.

[@hgchurch175]

@@flatsville1 When I lived in Denver, my husband and I double dug much of the yard, adding clay buster, and we brought the land to life. It did seem easier, but we were also about 20 years younger.

[@6868faheem]

Thanks.well explained

[@garden_geek]

Great video as always! You’ve probably stated this before but what’s your education/career background? You seem to know more about soil biology than the average gardening KZbinr lol It truly feels like I’m taking a soil masterclass when I watch your channel.

[@DiegoFooter]

An engineering background with a lot of self study and interviews in the soil science world.

[@bobeltomate7942]

@@DiegoFooter it’s amazing how many people pivot from technology to gardening and other natural system hobbies. Best of luck growing this channel, and thanks for sharing both the information and you skills in making a complex topic digestible.

[@westlakefarms]

So true !

[@fourdayhomestead2839]

A teaspoon of molasses to the water may help with feeding microbes & plants too.

[@chantallachance4905]

Thank you Diego you are a smart guy I appreciate the video 🥒

[@arrzfr]

What you didn't show is the root ball of your cucumber starts when you planted them. They were probably sitting in a nice fat blob of potting soil, which is what they're growing in even after you plant them out. Plenty of nitrogen and other goodies in there that will keep them going for a good long time even in terrible soil, as long as water retention and drainage are ok. I'd have been more curious about how seeds fare in that ground, because that's what people would be doing to get a cover crop going. Cucumbers maybe aren't a go-to plant for that. Nonetheless, I agree with you on the basic point. If I look at my own plants, I'm usually shocked by how little care I can get away with. I think a lot of the internet hype on heavy mulching with compost is because people want to get rid of weeds, and think, while I'm mulching, might as well use compost.

[@49testsamiam49]

do you know Michael Rizza? I heard he is a real fun guy

[@DiegoFooter]

He has the best morels!

[@49testsamiam49]

@@DiegoFooter he gives you much room too

[@pattithompsett9540]

i am new to the permaculture movement and was clearing a new plot that was full of weeds. what i now realize after watching this video i was also removing the mycorrhiza! aarrrgggh! now i know.

[@Alex_Plante]

I agree, but plants aren't enough long term. When you think about it, humans are always extracting the most nutrient-dense portions of the plants, so something needs to be added to restore the balance. I've noticed that new gardens are often extremely fertile and productive for the first 3 or 4 years, but then, even with the addition of compost, mulching, the partnering of complementary plants ("guilds"), and minimal tilling, the fertility of the soil will inexorably decline. I've come to the conclusion that manure is what needs to be added, especially composted chicken manure. Good old guano. But you have to be careful about how you do it so you do not "burn" your plants or soil.

[@unechaine1]

Tell us a little bit more about your climate, please, mean temperature eg. Here it’s 40 celsius with no rain during 2 months.

[@andrewsanders8167]

I couldn't help but watch the water you poured into those holes. Pretty bad the soil here was that way now infiltration is 14 inches a hour

[@DiegoFooter]

Not sure what you are saying or asking?

[@andrewsanders8167]

@@DiegoFooter the water just sat in that hole meaning close to dead ground. I should have been empty in about 30 seconds. I know gardner's don't sorry about how fast soil can absorb water but that is a good sign of soil health. Where you live has nothing to do with it

[@sherristevens5584]

Have clay soil, live in the Pacific NW and my south facing area grows weeds, weeds, and more weeds Various noxious ones also.. I pull them and have to use a shovel to dig some of them out. This area round my perennials only looks great for a short time before all these little clover type weeds pop up again! What should I do to amend this claylike hard soil. I do compost in raised beds for my tomatoes. Should I start composting here also? I need help in amending south clay beds.

[@sherristevens5584]

Read my post about where I live in Pacific NW where we have had no rain all summer, only fires especially right now. I live 30 miles from the small town Malden and Pine that burnt to the ground. Thankfully no lives lost.

[@andrewsanders8167]

@@sherristevens5584 this fall I would put in eye grass and radishes. If winter kills just chop and drop. The rye grass has Large root systems and will help brake up clayso will radish. Mother nature hates bare ground that's why you get weeds. In spring you can just mow with a mower and leave residue. You will still have a few weeds but not much plus help hold moisture. It takes years to improve dirt to soil. I am in arizona it's rained her 45 min since March with 4 inches a 10 min rain that dumped 1/2 inch and one that dumped almost 3 1/2. Better had a good infiltration rate to grow grass with that or it will run off. I know why the west is burning it has nothing to do with rain fall only management. Look up Gab brown he covers a lot about soil in many urine videos. I been to his garden spot it would blow most people's minds. He just dumps seed in a spreader and plant are growing all mixed up. He has alot of information you could use even in a small garden or flower bed

[@coleweede1953]

Sorry Diego but I got confused when you said a plants dry weight is both carbon and water. Did you mean half of the plants dry weight is just carbon

[@DiegoFooter]

Half of a plant's dry weight is carbon.

[@coleweede1953]

@@DiegoFooter I'm feel like the lucky weed that got picked by you in your garden. So honored to get a reply from my guy

[@Alex_Plante]

Most living things are composed mainly of carbohydrates, fats and proteins, which in turn are made up mainly of the elements C, O and H. About half of the mass is accounted for by C, most of the rest by O and H (hence water).

[@hasanyildiz9364]

Hello, Diego I'm one of your new subscribers and I love your approach on how and why should we be doing stuff while dealing with the soil. I loved every second of this video except a few sentences you have uttered :"This is how mother nature designed it for millions of years", bear in mind that nature can do nothing without the will of the one and only God who designed nature in such a unique way that it serves us, all humanity even when we die. Currently, I have hired a house with an acre of barren land (I just couldn't say garden) where I am planning to revive the soil and grow stuff in your way. However, the pruning and the other hard work is just a painstaking process for a 50 year old guy like myself. I hope I can manage to be a soil lover like you...

[@Kristoffceyssens]

Okay, but i dont got 100's of 1000's and million of years. I need to start next season :p

[@vinc8ntl8r]

Will the soil biology work in “fake” soil. Like miracle grow bagged soil? I wonder or does it have to be in real soil?

[@DiegoFooter]

Sure, unless there is so much chemical that it prevents the microbiology from surviving. Also the plant won't stimulate as much microbiology if you apply a lot of fertilizer, because it doesn't need the biology to pickup the fertilizer, the plant can do that.

[@tbluemel]

Dry soil is dead soil.