Digging deeper into the weeping keel - Sailing A B Sea (Ep.111)

In this episode of Sailing A B Sea we hook into a heap of boat jobs now that the winter weather is slowly changing to spring here in Greece.
Digging deeper into the weeping keel we find the keel bolts to be OK but the weeping keel needs more time to dry out and as usual one boat job leads to another.
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[@murraywestenskow2896]

Since everyone is giving you suspect information and butting in - I might as well too. And I do understand this was weeks ago - so take the following with a grain of salt. That battery thingie that was making noise - I would have just gotten a dish towel wrapped it up with duct tape to muffle the noise. The noise is the problem not the device itself. I've thought about your decision to port in Turkey for the next twelve months - and I think you're doing the right thing. Here's my view. It's your life - it's your damn boat - do what you want. And for you couch sitters who watch all the time - send Baz and Aannsha $5 a month. If a hundred more of their 5000+ subscribers donated $5 a month through Patreon - they wouldn't have to borrow tools in the boat yard. I think this is a delightful channel and lots of potential, and we should support them more, and make it worthwhile for them and their efforts. Chip in - it's easy.

[@SailingABSea]

Thank you for your kind words and support Murray, we appreciate that you're right there behind us all the way. Muffling the sound is an option, I'll have to check how much heat it produces now that it's been running for a while. Cheers.

[@AannshaJones]

😚

[@SVImpavidus]

Thanks for the shout out. 👍Another great video. Sail Safe guys. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.

[@SailingABSea]

Thank you for all the helpful advice Ant. 👍

[@josephmuscat352]

Just one little tip regarding the shaft anodes. Always check that they are exactly the good size. Metric or imperial, because this can have an effect on the bolds not reaching good. One other tip from experience, once the anodes are secured in place always add a cable tie to the shaft on each end, this will help if by any chance the anode gets loose. This happened to me and if I didn't realize it in time it would have damaged the hull, because it will travel up with revolutions.

[@SailingABSea]

The cable ties are a really great tip, thanks Joseph. We'll do that tomorrow. 👍

[@liongod1000]

*_ Must TOTALLY agree with you about staying in the Studio apartment..... Nothing worse for the soul to live in a or through a renovation be it house or boat! _*

[@SailingABSea]

Yeah, poor old A B Sea is a bit of a mess at the moment. Things should improve once we finally get the engine issues sorted. 👍

[@stevenbraunstein3166]

Hi Baz and Annssha I have a Jeanneau SO 45.2 and have been following your blog for a while. When I was shopping for my boat about 8 years ago, one of the Jeanneau dealers told me about the weeping from the keel, which is very common on these boats. Water is getting into the well in the keel for the bilge sump, probably through the calking between the bottom and the keel. It sits in the keel well and rots the sealant, which was not very good to begin with. He told me the solution is to grind out the fiberglass over the well, as you are doing, clean out the old sealant as best you can, let it dry out and then fill it with epoxy. Then rebed the keel to the bottom. I hope this helps. I haven't done it yet to mine, but I get a tiny drip of rusty water down the side of the keel in the same location as yours, so I will be watching you as I get ready to do mine. By the way, if you need to lube the steering chain again. It is much easier and you have better access if you remove the compasses than to climb into the compartment under the cockpit floor. Steve

[@SailingABSea]

Hi Steve, thanks for sharing the helpful info. Great idea about lubing the steering chain. Cheers.

[@boardelia]

Same thing for my 45.2, keel weeping allready repaired. How do you remove the compasses Steven ? I need to lube but also to replace a damaged compass...

[@olemanjim1415]

On your battery server that's emitting noise, find the hole the noise comes out of and put a piece of tape over it. I enjoy these videos, keep up the good work !

[@SailingABSea]

Good tip Jim, when we get back to the batteries job area we'll have a look, thanks for watching and commenting. 😀

[@RealHankShill]

Unfortunately, when keel bolts rust, they will rust where the keel-hull connection is, and the entire rest of the bolt can look brand new. You literally have to remove it to see the condition in the middle of the bolt as the top and bottom will look new. When you have that much leaking and water penetration, it is highly likely your keel bolts are already starting to corrode out.

[@SailingABSea]

Hi Logan, we agree with your science, the water running out showed very little rust, it was mostly clear water.

[@frankhiggins2295]

Put some nail varnish around the screw holes in the anode this forms a seal around the stainless steel bolts and stops it falling off ...ps hope to see you sailing around Turkey this summer as I'm based in Didim Marina. Best wishes Frank.

[@SailingABSea]

That's a top tip Frank, I'll let Aannsha decide what colour, she's the artist. 😀

[@michaelfarrell8962]

Anode has to have electrical continuity with the iron (cathode) keel. Zinc is used as a sacrificial anode because it gives up electrons more readily than ferrous metals, and this corrodes first, IF it has low resistance with the cathode. If you rely on the thru-bolt to make electrical bond with the keel, figure that is insufficient. Two equals one, one equals none. Get as much conductive surface exposed as possible.

[@SailingABSea]

Thank you for that helpful feedback Michael. Cheers.👍

[@kcaskmelater5079]

Hey Baz when I was in the Navy the anodes were welded to the hull after it was painted, the metal to metal contact was through the welds, I think your metal to metal contact will be through the bolt holding the anodes to the hull, hope that helps

[@SailingABSea]

That's a good point KC, that makes sense. Thanks.

[@SailingAurora]

Another good video guys, learning a lot from you experiences, Cheers

[@SailingABSea]

Thanks, we appreciate you watching. 😀

[@JayPerrypersonal]

Hi Baz We had exactly the same weeping on the lower part of the keel on our 45.2 as you. It’s just sealant degraded over the years. I ground it out, dried it well, rested rust then filled with epoxy. No more issues. We did not however have the weeping at the top of the keel next to the hull. Just dry it out full it with epoxy, not a big problem

[@SailingABSea]

Good to know, thanks Jay. The current 40 knots of wind should help with the drying. 👍

[@RealHankShill]

If you have weeping where the keel meets the hull, then you really need to pull your keel bolts. They rust just in the area inbetween the keel and hull, and the rest of the bolt will look like new.

[@philthefarrier9469]

Non sailor advise, putting the anode on the prop shaft use a C clamp or monkey wrench to squeeze the two parts together. Should get a good contact with the shaft and might make the bolts fit nicely. That is a very dodgy might mind you.

[@SailingABSea]

Good idea Phil the Farrier, thanks. Will do that next time.

[@andersjakobsen9906]

Hi there ABC I think the keel bolts should be better inspeced. But thas just mine opinion. Stainless has a way of going bad where you dont see it. And of corse you ned to remove the bottom paint, as you know your self. Maby its a robber seal around the axel on the kick rod? Fair winds ,,,/),,,,

[@SailingABSea]

Hey Anders, the kicker job will be done in Turkey. We've been told from people who have owned this model boat to leave the keel bolts as they are, and just to inspect the fibreglass encasement. Cheers.

[@RusstafaB]

Good idea to rent an apartment then you can get up in the morning go there and approach the work with more vigour psychologically Looks good news about the keel if it is totslly dry and not weeping think you will be good to go on that issue Great catch up and looks like you are getting there

[@SailingABSea]

Yes, it definitely helps to be away from the mess, but still only minutes away from the boat. The keel itself is still weeping from the crack, so we have a couple of wires in there acting as wicks to draw out the water. We'll probably also aim a fan heater at it to speed up the process, so it is fully dry before we seal it over. Thanks Russtafa B. 👍

[@sailingtonewhorizonswithka9627]

Hey the kicker you have look like mine and what i did to get rid of the water was that i driled a littel hole . and you can`t turn it around it will not work. all the best .fair winds.

[@SailingABSea]

Yes that's what we thought too. We'll tackle the kicker job when we get to Turkey. Cheers.

[@williambunting803]

...and your stands are cross tied one side to the other. Stable support.

[@SailingABSea]

The stands in this boat yard are the most chunky/sturdy we've ever seen. 👍

[@akathesquid5794]

flip kicker, run kicker line through turning block at mast base redirecting it to the block where it initially turns currently but is now farther away flipped. PS edit, BTW that boat is 25 years old. Has the keel ever been dropped? seems about time for that. You have no idea what the bolts look like at the nut, below the nut, at the keel interface and at the keel ballast entry. Never mind not even knowing the torque. Then button it all back up bedded in 3M5200 and torqued correctly. yes expensive but also important for any boat of your construction after 15 years and especially if planning offshore.

[@SailingABSea]

That's an interesting proposal. We'll look into that. Cheers.

[@boardelia]

I see you have water in the bilge and humid sail compartment. Just for the info, it is rain water, at least in our boat. What's the brand/model of you desulfater ? Is it always connected and working ? I think i'm going to start working on this sailor support forum... :p

[@SailingABSea]

Hi Boarderlia, The water in the bilge is from when I poured a bucket of seawater in there to try and get rid of a bad smell. The water getting into the sail locker is coming through a bad deck repair job from a previous owner. We'll fix that when we get to Turkey. We're thinking of changing the desulphater to this brand. www.recovermybatteries.com/products.html

[@boardelia]

@@SailingABSea Lucky you, i have to take of the ceiling cover to find out the leaks. Thank's for the info on the desulphater ;)

[@gmoose777]

completely free of paint under the anode

[@SailingABSea]

Good to know, looks like we've got a bit of sanding to do. 😀 Cheers.

[@elmasselcuk]

At first, I am happy you are coming back to Turkey. I try to find out the video about the batteries died in october. Couldnt find it. If there is one pls send it to check it out. The battery connections you made in parallel has some problems as I can see from the video. If you are pulling too much amps from the bank with this connection you are going to make the first battery at the left work more than the two others. And work less at the far right. And the batteries in parallel work as the weakest link in the chain logic. And if you make the first battery older it will make the other batteries older too in some time. You can check for detailed exp. here : www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html For the Crew think, it is good news. Also i will check Setur for prices or campaigns for you guys. Hope we meet this time in Turkey. Take care.

[@elmasselcuk]

Ok i find the other battery video. Never mix the old and new batteries. Because aged battery will make the news ones older in short time. As you can see from the other video the one closer to the connection dead but the far away one still has some life. It is because of the connections made(I dont get how that solar guys made it ). Because batteries not used equally. Also probably you are using too much at night and at the end of the days batteries are not charging full. When you check the specs they have around 400-500 cycles at lead acid batteries. And they are not deep cycle, 15 months usage is normal on heavy usage. For the long term consider upgrading lithium(I know it is pricey , ı couldnt make it either). Because the tight space you have you will have more Juice at that storage, also less weight. Probably you know but i will remind again, On victron Battery Monitor there is a amp/hour setting in the setup. Check if it is 300 amps. If not it will not show the correct percentage. Also SOC (State of Charge) is always not accurate. Check on daily basis how many amps you consume and the battery voltage. Logging weekly in the long term will give some idea on battery status. (On same conditions: Like every morning Used Amp, Voltage of the bank) Also for the next time, consider using 4 batteries. If you are using too much amp/hours increasing the battery bank capacity makes the batteries last longer as you know from %50 usage rule for lead acid batteries.

[@SailingABSea]

Thanks, we're going to rewire the batteries as per method three in that link you sent. We bought two bus bars, now we need to get cables made up to the correct length.

[@elmasselcuk]

@@SailingABSea Oh nice another mission for you. Hope you will succeed this time. I watched the Laptop Adapter mission failed. Method 3 is ok. But be carefull with the lengths of them all must be equal. Also the cables from bus bar to the inventer both + and - must be equal. I prefer Method 2. Because there is no bus bar around to shortcut accidentally. you have a tight space there. Too much cables too much mess.

[@philthefarrier9469]

Did your thumb knuckle meet the grinder? No idea how I came up with that idea regards, Lefty

[@SailingABSea]

No, it met boiling water when I was filling a hot water bottle one cold night. 🙄 Now the blister's burst, this is what's left. Pure genius perhaps?

[@razisn]

Sailing A B Sea ouch

[@billhanna8838]

Has the boomvang have a drain hole on bottom lower side of the Vang ?

[@SailingABSea]

Hi Bill the boom vang is on the list for attention this winter. Cheers.

[@angeloattard9748]

Could it be that the electrical connection for the anode through to the rudder is through the metallic nut and bolt, assuming that the rudder is steel.

[@SailingABSea]

Hi Angelo, the rudder is a fibreglass encased steel rod. Cheers.🍺

[@nortonmolly]

What did you do to your thumb knuckle? That’s some abrasion.

[@SailingABSea]

Well spotted Andrew. I was pouring just boiled water into a hot water bottle one cold evening and scalded myself. It blistered and eventually the blister burst leaving what you now see. 🙁

[@johnlord7854]

@@SailingABSea Far out - I bet that hurt :(

[@SailingABSea]

It did and still does. 👍 It'll fix, just needs time.

[@johnlord7854]

@@SailingABSea I bet !!! Hope it gets better real soon :)

[@shanevillis4079]

maybe a seal is gone in the top of the vang Baz??

[@SailingABSea]

Hey Shane, when the topping lift is released the vang/kicker doesn't support the boom anyway, so it's something that we'll have to dismantle and fix. It's on the list, got much bigger fish to fry at the moment. Cheers.

[@billhanna8838]

@@SailingABSea i think there is a 'plastic' seal on the top, they seem to have this weakness

[@SailingABSea]

As soon as we get around to that job the whole thing will be dismantled and serviced. Probably when we get to Turkey.

[@2Moza]

Baz if you look at where the 4 rivets are and the 4 screws are can the Kicker poll be changed there ? Leaving both the End Caps where they are Now so all you are doing is turning the poll from end to end and redo the Screws and Rivets Again ??????. Hope you Can if Not put a rubber O Ring over it Mate or a Condom :) Hahahaha Oz Joke all .

[@SailingABSea]

Nice suggestion 2Moza, I'll have a look at that option. Cheers.

[@6969allgood]

:-)

[@SailingABSea]

Thanks Freddie.

[@razisn]

Don’t mention it!

[@SailingABSea]

But we did, because we're thankful. 😀😀😀

[@normanboyes4983]

Might be better off with proper deck glands to replace that lash up of a hole with a cable passing through surrounded by a blob of silicone.😀👍⛵️

[@SailingABSea]

Hi Norman, we're not understanding what you're proposing, can you give us a bit more detail? What is a deck gland? Thanks.

[@normanboyes4983]

Sailing A B Sea Take your pick based on cable(s) diameter : www.force4.co.uk/department/electrical/plugs-sockets-deck-glands/deck-glands

[@SailingABSea]

Ahhh now we get you. You're talking about the deck fill at the bow where some fitting has been removed.

[@normanboyes4983]

Sailing A B Sea Not exactly was referring to electrical cables passing through focsle deck and sealed with some silicone type material.About 1:30 ish in this vid.😀👍

[@SailingABSea]

@@normanboyes4983 those electrical cables attach to the back end of the up and down foot switches for the windlass, they are water sealed, so no leaks there.