Digitrax Decoder Install in N Scale Kato E5A

[@timothywinter2412]

I found this video a number of years ago when I first wanted to install some Digitrax decoders in my Kato E7/8 units, since then I have never had a problem running those units. Some years later I am now installing Digitrax decoders in my Kato F7 units and of course a rewatch to refresh my memory and all is good in the world, and with my F units units, again. A really helpful video teaching the right way to properly wire for trouble free running. Thank you Mike.

[@N-Scale]

Glad to have helped ! Thanks Timothy

[@JPF941]

Mike, thank you for leaving this posted to KZbin. I was asked by a friend to install three tCS decoders in this model. I had never done anything other then GP-38's. Your process was easy, and flawless. All three units run very well first time, and in less time then it would have taken me if I tried on my own. THANK YOU!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks JP , Mike

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Harold , I hope it helps some folks get over the fear of decoder installs. Mike

[@stevie65able]

Excellent advice as always Mike! Even though I run DC not DCC, I can see how easily you make a really good connection. This is also a great demonstration of the better control you achieve in soldering with the solder on the iron. Many Thanks, Stephen.

[@N-Scale]

Yes I do , of coarse I do not solder to any strips but I add a small amount of solder to the tabs to insure good pickup and then solder the motor tabs to the downward motor strips. Thanks , Mike

[@4ennout2]

Thanks Mike, I had a kato E5A that did not want to run. I tried using your technique.Now it runs great!

[@N-Scale]

Glad it worked for you. Mike

[@raspy52]

Very well done Mike. I am far less intimidated than before. Another dozen or so instruction videos and I'll be ready to install one on my own.

[@N-Scale]

I have shipped hundreds of locos to customers and there can be loss of contact in either location during shipping so I just prefer not to have to send a locomotive back and forth. I do agree if it is for your own use it may be overkill but I like to only do the job once. Thanks, Mike

[@N-Scale]

Thanks for watching , I hope it helped !! Mike

[@Fly-nf1hq]

Mike you really helped me out with this video, kato pa1 would stop after a couple times around the track motor tabs already soldered to decoder. thought I had a bad decoder .I then soldered pickup tabs to digitrax decoder problem fixed thanks again.

[@nscalemodeltrainshowtochan4479]

Thanks Peter, Mike

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Stephen , I hope this helped as well as the soldering video. Mike

[@jefflizotte4758]

great video,I like the way its done by you.Never hurts to go the extra steps now rather than having trouble or poor performance later on

[@laney50w]

BTW, beautiful Locomotive. I just ordered the Kato Penn Central EMD E8A (N Gauge), can't wait to get it!

[@N-Scale]

You will love it , they are great runners. Thanks , Mike

[@TacticalJackalope]

Nice video the motor leads I agree absolutely need to be soldered but the other leads are superfluous IMHO.

[@N-Scale]

Well , I am sorry to hear that. This is one of the most simple installs there is. Thanks , Mike

[@caw1]

Very, very informative. Thank you very much, I'm learning a great deal from you.

[@stevelamm9884]

Mike, excellent video! Can I assume that all the Kato "silver" series E5's come DCC ready? I'm thinking of purchasing the Silver Streak set for a Christmas layout and not sure I want to spend the money on a set with DCC installed. But I have the basic skills to follow your video to install DCC next year maybe.

[@geraldstokes5661]

Nice job , Mike. Have you ever tried installing sound in these loco's ? I have some Atlas gp7s that have sound installed and it's created a whole new n scale world !

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Gerald , I have not. I do not do sound installs. I personally find sound to be annoying after some time in the room. Sorry , just not a big fan of sound. Mike

[@N-Scale]

Thanks CAW , I am glad you could use it. Mike

[@chrisf1165]

thank you! This video was a huge help and solved my motor problems.

[@N-Scale]

Thanks , and glad to help. Mike

[@Musecrafter]

Awesome video! Thanks, Mike!

[@N-Scale]

+Musecrafter Thanks so much , I hope it was helpful. Mike

[@16978832]

Do you do something similar with drop in decoders such as the TCS K1D4?

[@seanpacificrailroad3700]

Hi Mike thanks so I need to order the right size solder for this job because I’m trying to install a decoder to a kato pa1 ab unit what size do you recommend thanks

[@N-Scale]

The smallest rosin core you can find. Mike

[@mikeblock2062]

Takes Mike very helpful info

[@N-Scale]

Glad to help Mike. Mike

[@robertrodriguez6978]

Hi Mike! Happy New Year and Thanks for the valuable info You provide in Your videos! Look I have a Kato GE ES44AC Union Pacific Diesel engine "DCC ready", but with no decoder installed, whatsoever! Since I'm just dabbling in n scale moreover in DCC stuff, what kind of decoder(s) I could install in this type of engine? I'm looking for sound and lights! Robert.-

[@N-Scale]

I do not know on sound decoders. Mike

[@trainzaholic]

is there ony one decoder for every locos?

[@Supersparky413]

Thank you very much! From beginning to finish and excellent and very informational video. Do you have or will you in the future have a video on how to install lighting in Kato passenger cars?

[@N-Scale]

+Dale George Thanks George , I would not think so as it is too simple. Thanks , Mike

[@TechBuild]

Will the DN163K0a decoder work in this locomotive?

[@N-Scale]

No , it takes a K0E

[@aqualungs77]

Hey Mike do you stiill solder the decoders in. Iread an article from your site by Jeff Whitehorn and it warns against soldering in the decoders because of the puple plaugue?

[@N-Scale]

Yes I do. Mike

[@N-Scale]

Most of the new frames are, yes. Thanks , Mike

[@MikeLee-mz4zd]

Excellent, Thank you!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Mike , Hope it helped. Mike

[@WisconsinRailfan22]

Do you have to use that tape? What if I were to just put my DCC decoder right in the place of the DC one that the model came with....? Would that work?

[@N-Scale]

Nope you need the tape to segregate the motor from the pickup strips. You do not use it you WILL fry the decoder. Mike

[@WisconsinRailfan22]

@@N-Scale oh ok. Thank you very much for the information, ya prob saved me a decoder! Thanks

[@charlesmitchell487]

I did this install. It was my first and it ran for a couple of days. . When it first stopped working I opened it and examined it. When I pressed down on the snap in clip it started to run. When I let up it stopped. Is that the sort of thing that might be caused bad contacts? I'm going to order 30ga wire tonight and try soldering it. I I haven't soldered in years. As for as soldering the tabs, I assume you fold the tab down, put a tiny bit of Flux on both the strip and the tab where they meet, then a tiny bit of solder. How hot should my iron be? Thanks

[@N-Scale]

You can do it !!! I no longer do repairs. Mike

[@charlesmitchell487]

@@N-Scale Thanks for the vote of confidence Mike! I get the wire tomorrow. One last question - could the problem be anything else? My other concern is that after I solder it there's still a problem. Does this sound pretty typical of the sort of thing you used to see in these situations?

[@N-Scale]

@@charlesmitchell487 No. It is a contact issue and very common

[@charlesmitchell487]

@@N-Scale I'm sure you've been pacing the floor worrying about how everything worked out with my soldering. Well you were right - I did it and it fixed the problem. However... It started out badly. Extremely. (First of all did you know that solder is really hot?) Kidding. Here's what happened - (among other ridiculous solutions) I had attempted to hold the decoder down against the contact strips with gaffers tape. When I removed the shell and looked at the chassis there were some things missing such as the decoder and the motor. I turned the shell upside down and found out where they had gone. The decoder had stuck to the inside of the shell and when I removed it the motor came out with it. I had no idea how to re-install it. I messed around with it a bit and was able to get the axles back in along with the motor. Next I discovered that the small moto clips were bent at this angle that prevented the long contract strips from staying in place. I just soldered the wires to the long strips and figured I would find a way to put it all together. Trying to re-assemble this thing was like herding miniature cats. I finally managed to get all the clips and wires to stay in the sandwich at the same time and clipped it down. And it flew apart. So I did it again, only this time I held it down with more gaffers tape. Temporarily. I soldered the 2 small clips that had caused all the trouble in the first place. I did not put the grey clip back in. It ran like a champ. Thanks In the end you were right... kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqXIfql9Zbetr7c

[@N-Scale]

@@charlesmitchell487 Thanks , Mike

[@davido9345]

Very nice video. Do you have advice or guidance for installing decoders in older N scale Kato E8/9 and Kato F7 locos? Those old Kato locos run very well and I wish to keep them as I convert to DCC. Thank you Mike.

[@N-Scale]

I do not , but I am sure there is plenty of info out there if you Google it. Thanks , Mike

[@BaronvonBavert]

Mike, thanks for show

[@MrRenoman2011]

Thanks Mike great video

[@nscalemodeltrainshowtochan4479]

Thank You Ron, I hope you can use the info. Happy New Year Mike & Robin

[@oldinfo2822]

Mike, I installed the decoder as shown and when I put the Kato loco on the track it started running full speed, regardless of throttle speed or DCC number. The only control that worked was the ALL STOP emergency button on the controller. Other than that, all other controls don't work and the train runs wide open when it touches the track. Any ideas??

[@N-Scale]

Sounds like a short in the install. Mike

[@N-Scale]

More than welcome. Call us if you need anything. Thanks , Mike

[@WisconsinRailfan22]

I got the decoder in, the lights work but the engine doesn't move.... do u know what might be wrong?

[@N-Scale]

One of the motor tabs is not making contact or if you programmed it , it could be on the wrong road # that you tried to set. Mike

[@WisconsinRailfan22]

@@N-Scale thank you again for the help I really appreciate it! I got it working now!

[@N-Scale]

@@WisconsinRailfan22 Good for you buddy. Mike

[@N-Scale]

Thanks so much, Mike

[@mukerjea]

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

[@rebel6910]

thanks very through as always

[@N-Scale]

Thanks William

[@geraldstokes5661]

I don't know, but my little locos sound pretty good. Especially when running 2 or 3 in a consist. Each loco has 2 9mmx16mm Knowles fox speakers. But different strokes...cheers

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Gerald , That is good to hear and glad you like them. Thanks , Mike

[@baileyhamrick7519]

Hi Mike, I enjoy your videos and all the information they have to offer. I currently have 2 E5s like this one, one with the ESU loksound installed already and one with a TCS decoder. I bought an ESU Loksound decoder (which is not a board like the TCS decoder, so everything has to be sobered) to replace the TCS decoder in one of my locomotives. I opened up the inside of my locomotive with the ESU decoder already installed and noticed that some ofd the wires were hooked up to the orange light board (the same one in this video that you replace with your decoder) I have no spare light boards I can use for this either.Is it possible wire my ESU decoder to the locomotive without the light board? I am knowledgable in soldering and that shouldn't be an issue. I also purchased a speaker which is compatible with the decoder. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[@N-Scale]

I would have no clue, I do not do any sound installs like that. Thanks , Mike

[@daveblaedow8419]

even if it says decoder ready?

[@N-Scale]

Yes sir, even then. Mike

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Raspy , You can do it !!!!!!! Mike

[@geraldstokes5661]

Wow, i'm surprised, listening to the heavy rock and roll intro's to your video's

[@N-Scale]

It might be different also if N Scale sound was better but the small speakers are not good for scaling down sound. Mike

[@laney50w]

Great video. Could you also use dielectric compound instead of using the solder method? Even though, I agree, I like the soldering method. Thanks! Great stuff!

[@N-Scale]

You could I suppose but I would not trust it myself. Thanks , Mike

[@daveblaedow8419]

is it that easy to do atlas??

[@mikefifer6111]

No it is not. The Atlas locos need to be split in half to install the decoder and tape. Mike

[@fighting17chicago]

Thanks for the video!

[@N-Scale]

I guess that can be true eah!! Mike

[@NscalersClub]

Do you have to use flux?

[@N-Scale]

Yes and it is mentioned in the video. Thanks , Mike

[@NscalersClub]

okay Thank you :-)

[@N-Scale]

Fire Strife You are welcome , Thanks , Mike

[@NscalersClub]

:-)

[@NscalersClub]

Can you plz subscribe to me? I need the subs.

[@Minecraft24810]

nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool.