Discoloration Tutorial Part 5 for Millenium Falcon Weathering

[@Hpynos2010]

Phenomenal! The best weathering I've ever seen out of all the Falcon kits out there.

[@liftedJ33P]

the fantastical fish is my Fav, actually im building a custom old truck and the fenders look just like the Fish's body!!! good work

[@MaximusTheHeretek]

Awesome! I have been going to your website for years. I am verry happy to see you doing these tutorial vids now. Would love to see one or two on mecha/Gundam. :)

[@ahhhh01]

@FichtenFoo literally too cool, do you airbrush? how do you prevent the paint from bleeding into the masked area?

[@ChuckAToilet]

Awesome job on the discoloration...and thank you for the tutorials. Do you think the technique you used with the Oils and turpinol can be duplicated...to some degree...with Acrylics (such as with Tamiya paints) and the alchohol based thinner?

[@ahhhh01]

amazing once again! The decals, did you chip them or just paint over them with a little paint?

[@deltavee100]

I love your tutorials an I'd like to try oil weathering on a test model. I have an old MPC Falcon kit, but it's painted in either Model Master or Floquil flat enamels. I've read oils aren't compatible with enamels. One suggestion was a compatible overcoat, but I don't that that would leave a good surface for the subtlety of oils to do their thing. Any advice? I really like using Floquil enamels for starships, so if I can't use oils, I need some other solution for the longterm.

[@FichtenFoo]

+SpaceTiger Hobbes Look on my FichtenFoo website for a recipe for clear coats with Future Floor Acrylic (pledge brand now). Mix it with a % of Tamiya Flat Base for a flat coat. It's all in the tutorial.

[@deltavee100]

+FichtenFoo Thanks. You're saying overcoat my enamel paint job with a mix of Future and Tamiya FB that will protect the enamel paint and leave a rough surface for the oils and powders to do their thing? If so, I'll give it a try. I've been concerned the effect wouldn't be the same as bare paint, tho.

[@FichtenFoo]

+SpaceTiger Hobbes test on scrap first.

[@FichtenFoo]

@gluebubble Yes, Oil Paint. I showed them (in their tubes) during the video series. I rarely use enamels.

[@ptx1rosales]

Hello, before you make the streaking dirt, you apply a top coat to the model or is applyed direct to the paint. If you pply top coat, is gloss or matt, and after you put the streaking effects you apply top coat?? .. I dont know if is necessary cause the oils can interact with the base paint

[@inthegameroompodcast]

@FichtenFoo Michael, Have you ever tried the "Salt" method for simulating chipped paint? It works great. Do a google search for "Paint Chipping with Salt Crystals". It sounds silly ... but once you try it you'll be convinced.

[@InBedGamer]

Is this fine molds? I'm thinking of getting the new Force Awakens one from Bandai. It seems to be great quality and very affordable.

[@FichtenFoo]

it's the fine molds 1 / 72nd scale Millenium Falcon. it's out of production but Revell is reproducing it now.

[@FichtenFoo]

the Bandai ones are only 1:144 scale

[@gluebubble]

So when you say oils, are you referring to the kind of paint you would use for an oil painting, and not enamels designed for modelkits?

[@FichtenFoo]

I didnt varnish mine. I wouldn't worry about it. Typically I use Future Floor Acrylic though.

[@chrisjhart]

Nice!

[@mikedimimd]

Would a heated room help the cure time?

[@FichtenFoo]

+mikedimimd Yes

[@hansebee]

"502 Abteilung" xD "Department 502"