distributor replacement 2000 nissan 3 3

replacing the distributor on a 2000 nissan pathfinder 3.3
the reason to replace the distributor in this 3.3
how to set up to replace the distributor in a 2000 nissan 3.3

[@scooterbutner9674]

There is more to this than meets the eye.......I could have sworn that the rotor position you showed on your old distributor (before removal) was on the left of the big electrical connector but then you positioned the new one on the right side during final installation. That tells me that the whole distributors physical timing position was off by 15-20 degrees as compared to its original position. That then, tells me that the ECM must be correcting the timing to make the engine run but it is not optimal because the physical position was wrong. I saw this one time when I removed the distributor on my 1990 Mazda MPV van with a 3.0L. I reinstalled it in the wrong position several times (because it was so difficult to align) but, the engine still ran fine each time. Once I then, even installed 180 degrees out (basically backwards) and it still ran fine but, it did not what I believe to be full power (180hp). Finally I got it positioned perfect then, set the timing with a timing light and the engine came to life with full power. The Mazda3.0L was rated at the same180HP as this Nissan 3.3L. What I learned was that the ECM does control and correct timing to allow the engine to run but, it must be set correctly to achieve full power. My current Nissan Frontier 3.3L runs fine with no check engine lites but, it is a dog with no power and terrible fuel mileage and an occasional miss at idle. Otherwise it runs just like my Mazda MPV van did before I corrected the timing issue. I mention all this for 2 reasons. #1) I'm here to learn why my Nissan has such little power and your video helped me understand a little more about how to replace my distributor. #2) I wanted to offer my experience with timing issues as well so folks could learn that the proper physical distributor position may not be critical to make the engine run but, it is critical to make it run properly and make full power. I hope this helps someone and, thanks for taking the time to share your experience...it was helpful to me.

[@robertlee6987]

Thanks for documenting you procedure and the debug at the end of the video. My 2000 Frontier has 117K, I had a rough running situation related to the crankshaft position sensor and I thought I might have an ignition coil issue too. When taking the distributor apart to get to the coil, I found a bunch of really thin metal shavings that came off the bottom of the timing disc. I made a paper/cardboard washer as you indicated and the disc no longer touches. I've ordered a new distributor and this will get me by for a couple of days. The truck runs well after the washer modification, the slight misfire seems to be gone now. But now that I understand better what is happening, I can hear the upper distributor bearing when the truck is idling, also my shaft at the top moved slightly as yours did. Thanks again!

[@beyondappalachian8218]

Thanks man 😊 this video really helped me out when I had to do this in advance auto parts store parking lot on I-75 North of Tampa Florida. 😂

[@cuh720]

Which one did you buy? I Need one

[@beyondappalachian8218]

@@cuh720 car quest brand at advance auto parts. I was lucky they had 1 in stock . I guess the bearing goes bad with the factory one. I only have 140K miles on my 2001 exterra

[@KensStuff]

Glad it helped

[@KensStuff]

sorry i can't remember i got it on Ebay and it's still working and running fine.

[@MyRcGoSlow]

@@beyondappalachian8218 what code are you getting bro I’m getting p0300 misfire random I changed my coil pack was like a 30$ part it’s running much better but something is still off mabe I need the whole distributor

[@faustogonzalez8397]

The six pin distributor connector signals are as follows from left to right. Pin 1 CPU square wave input to the distributor to activate the ignition circuit. Pin 2 Ground for Ignition Coil circuit. Pin 3 Distributor square wave output 60 degree signal, six per 1 distributor rotation. Pin 4 Distributor square wave output 1 degree signal, 360 per 1 distributor rotation. Pin 5 Power to CAM Position electronic circuit. Pin 6 Ground for CAM Position electronic circuit. Capacitor connector Pin 7, 12 Vdc to Ignition Coil Power Circuit. Pin 8, Signal output of the distributor to the CPU to acknowledge primary ignition circuit has fired.

[@Fedgery007]

Thanks for sharing! I have a S/C so I’m hoping this will still help me!

[@GMJLopez]

This video was super helpful!

[@mckoylach1622]

Great video, thanks

[@josedejesusmartinezjimenez4876]

Buen video,gracias !!!

[@ricardoitza8626]

Isn't the root suppose to point to sparkplug #1? I'm confused.

[@fatpappybushcrafttips5032]

Question it I take off the cap should the distributor still spin

[@evanferree3029]

I’m having that problem now. Yes, when you take the cap off and look at the rotor it should spin when you crank the car.

[@richardwicker6811]

I have to ask, when you are driving did it like bog down and lose power? Because my frontier does and I was told to replace the distributor

[@carlorocky]

That’s a very good question. Mine does the same thing. Very bad bog around 1500RPM. did replacing the distributor help?

[@KensStuff]

it didn't bog down as such. it was like there was a light switch in the car and someone was flipping it off and on real fast. and very random. just a momentary loss of power then right back on again.

[@KensStuff]

replacing the distributor on mine fixed it completely of the momentary loss in power.

[@Playplayab]

Yo my truck stopped running, I changed the distributor and started but is idling bad and does nothing when I give it gas, any tips?

[@KensStuff]

sorry to many possibilities to even try and guess could do more damage than good.

[@javierortiz7390]

Ok yo le cambié el distribuidor a mi carro es un Nissan x Terra 2000 3.3.4 x4 y no enciende le cambié las bujías y rodor y sigue fallando echa esplociones y nada más levanta entre cuarenta y cinco millas por hora me podrían ayudar a resolver mi problema gracias

[@KensStuff]

without seeing the car and exactly what it's doing i can't tell a lot. but if it will run up to about 45 mph but won't go past it. i would check the catalytic converter and see if they are restricted. listen for a whistling sound when you get the RPM's up. that's just a guess.

[@Eww123]

I need advice, just replaced my distributor and now my car will rev just fine in park/neutral. But the second I put it in gear it’s slow to accelerate, and doesn’t go above 35 mph. I’ve check fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and fuel injectors and everything seems okay. And I don’t have the money to bring it into a shop

[@JnRskaters]

Did you get it figured out

[@Eww123]

@@JnRskaters I did thankfully, I have never messed with the timing on my car, and when I replaced the distributor I did it at TDC of the exhaust stroke, so my timing was all fucked. Two KZbin videos helped me figure it out

[@JnRskaters]

@@Eww123 hopefully I’ll get mine figured out mines been down for 2 year about to burn this bitch

[@themessenger4011]

I'm having problems with my distributor. It was already removed. Now I can't get the timing. Any advice

[@trichome3266]

what kind of oil do you use on the gear /o-ring on the bottom?

[@KensStuff]

Same oil as you run in your engine.

[@MyRcGoSlow]

I have a p0300 I replaced the coil pa k inside the distributor but still got the same code I was scared of changing the whole distributor suppsoibly it was hard to replace cause you gotta align

[@KensStuff]

so long as you pay close attention to how the old distributor came out where the rotor is pointing before you take it loose and where it rotates to when it's out you will should be able to slip it out and back in with almost no problems. watch the video again you'll see it's not hard to get it back in place so long as you pay attention taking it out. good luck.

[@jonathanmiller8977]

Does my truck have to be tdc before I start?

[@gabrielpaulus8799]

There is a small bearing on which the shaft runs...i just replaced the bearing.

[@jorgeh.6533]

Did you have to time it with a timing light afterwards??

[@KensStuff]

No Not at all. so long as you put it back exactly how you took it out and don't turn the engine over while the distributor is out you don't have to. i have a vid on replacing the disturber on a Jeep 4.0 and it's basically just like this one. so long as you don't move anything you just put the new one back just like you took the old one out.

[@FierceSkatin]

@@KensStuff did it run great after? No more engine light

[@KensStuff]

@@FierceSkatin the problem i had was an intermittent miss. like you flipped a switch off and back on. i could see where the disk was rubbing and could move the shaft back and forth. and yes it runs great now. no light.

[@ttrapp6303]

Aren't you post to prim the pump before putting in the new one 🤔

[@JackyChumlee]

Mine only misfires on cylinder 1 when it warms up. Changed plugs and wires and still have the issue. Gonna try doing this next.

[@KensStuff]

i would do a little more diagnosing before jumping into the cost of a new distributor. the shaft on mine lad a lot of play. if you have a timing light hook it up to cyl 1 that is misfiring and see if it's flashes. get as close to the plug as you can. if it doesn't flash then your not getting fire but check a different play just to make sure. could be a bad cap. look for carbon tracks check it at night in the dark and see if you see any little sparks showing up anywhere. you could also be looking at an injector problems. Good Luck.

[@trekinseattle]

@@KensStuff I own 4 Pathfinders and 2 Qx4s. And have owned, fixed, sold many more. The factory Distributor almost always has a bearing failure. This throws rust all over the inside of the Distributor and causes the no start, or allows the main shaft to slide and this movement physically destroys internal parts. It is very difficult to replace that bearing but can be done. I ONLY use Japanese parts. What causes the bearing to fail? Too much spring tension on the very bottom gear. Its held in with a small roll pin. Remove it and cut ONE coil off the spring, sand the cut end to deburr it. AFTERMARKET Distributors, Almost all companies sell the same 2 Chinese built units. They ALL have bearing failure in a VERY short time. China copied the OEM part but used a far lower quality bearing. To make the cheap bearing last longer remove the roll pin and cut one coil off the spring. Also when the bearing completely fails it falls into the engine and destroys the Distributor and cam gear.

[@trekinseattle]

@@KensStuff Nissan actually sells a refurbished Distributor with good quality parts that I highly recommend. Very similar price to a Chinese part.

[@GeordieFM]

@@trekinseattle so on the brand new distributor I ordered (cheap from Amazon so Chinese part) I should take it apart, find that spring and cut a coil off of it before installing??

[@trekinseattle]

@@GeordieFM There are 3 levels of distributor, Nissan rebuilds them to this day. $300.00 So If you want to keep your rig for a long time this is the way to go. 2nd is the OE SPECTRA, A1 Cardone a few others $79-120 (online in store is a bit more) Then you have the Cheepo stuff they fail electrically and the bearing. It's probably not even worth fooling with it. Just slap er in and run it... it will fail soon one way or another. I only use oe spectra or A1 cardone and fix the spring on rigs I'm selling. I only use NISSAN rebuild and fix the spring on my personal rigs. (Side note) I just replaced a distributor on a Pristine condition 1999 XE special edition (Aluminum wheels, LSD, v6, auto, power everything) the Factory original distributor lasted 300,000 had a random miss on all cylinders, barely moved on it's own power. Slapped in a Nissan Rebuild and it's flawless, also cleaned the mass air flow sensor

[@PedroRodriguez-hy5ty]

Next time use a paper towel on your socket To screw in your boat

[@ME-xd4he]

These distributors last around 10 years. Terrible design. I’ve put two in mine since 2006