DIY - 2023 Mazda CX-30 SkyActiv-X: Install a dashcam and its fused power supply

[@lfcairo]

Excellent and very detailed video. Thanks!

[@TheMissingBolt]

You're very welcome!

[@atifbell]

Thank you for guiding me to hardwire a dashcam into my CX-30. I used the Viofo A229 PRO 2CH. My comments and notes: 1. I ended up adding a 10A fuse parallel to the 5A fuse. This was not clearly shown how to do in the video. 2. I had a rear camera too. It is better to lay the wirings for both front and back together. In my case I had to remove the car casing multiple times. 3. To remove the A pillar case it helps to twist the casing 45 degrees and the plug 45 degree in opposite direction than to turn the plug itself 90 degree in one direction. 4. Putting these things back should be another video LMAO 😂 Thanks for this great video guide!

[@TheMissingBolt]

1. I'm not sure why you needed to add another 10A fuse in parallel to the 5A one (other than the one for the infotainment screen, which I did show)... 2. Indeed, we didn't want to install a rear camera too so there was nothing for me to film on this topic 3. That's a fair point, I'll try this approach myself next time, thanks for the tip! 4. For the front camera it wasn't too difficult...for the rear one I imagine it takes some effort! 😂

[@confuseatronica]

yessss thank you this is exactly what i wanted to see before doing it myself- especially in this car which is so awkward to work on because of the windshield rake; I don't want to have to do anything more than once!

[@TheMissingBolt]

Glad I could help!

[@buckgb]

Comprehensive, good job.

[@TheMissingBolt]

Thank you! 🙂

[@roberthouston3809]

What about using the unlabeled ones ..F12 F14 and F23

[@TheMissingBolt]

You can check with a multi-meter if there's any voltage on those slots, but usually if there's no fuse connected to them from the factory, then those slots are not powered at all so they won't be of any use.

[@vincentlee2460]

At 9 min video, i wish to say that you need not lower the fuse rating as the 12volt is split into 2 different wires that carry the independent fuse to power 2 items, one for the Audio and the other for the camera. The 2 fuses are not in series connection but its split. If you remove the Audio fuse and leave the camera fuse connected, the camera will still continue to work. But if you reverse the plug a circuit plug adapter wrongly, then when the audio fuse blow, the camera would also stop working

[@TheMissingBolt]

The lowering of the fuse is needed (and mandatory) due to what happens up to the fuse, not from the fuse onwards. Had I kept the 15A fuse in addition to the 5A fuse, the wires from the fuse-box to the audio and camera modules would have been protected correctly, but the wire from the battery to the fuse-box would have been at risk of overload and potential fire, since at its limit it might have needed to carry 20A instead of its rated 15A (as currents sum up on the same circuit).

[@vincentlee2460]

@@TheMissingBolt no

[@vincentlee2460]

You.need to know how the add a device wire is made and joined inside

[@TheMissingBolt]

​@@vincentlee2460My man, this is not a debate on the internals of a newly-added component...this is basic electrical knowledge - Kirchoff's first law. If the circuit is rated for 15 A and you add another circuit of 5A without reducing the initial fuse from 15 A down to 10 A, ​then you are no longer limiting the input current coming into the fuse box on that particular circuit to 15 A, but to 20 A, something the physical wire which feeds the fuse(s) is guaranteed to not be rated for. If you don't agree, feel free to keep the 15 A fuse in place, but if your car is still under warranty and the dealer sees it, you'll lose the warranty on your electrical system immediately. Sure, if the actual currents are small enough you'll be fine, but you are introducing a fire risk to your car - that is the problem.

[@vincentlee2460]

The add a wire splits the electrical path into 2 independent electrical paths. One path is the car's original fuse, the other electrical path is for the new accessory with another new fuse. These 2 fuses are independent, they are NOT connected in series. The current is now split into 2 parts but the voltage is still the same. But dash cam don't draw a lot of current so we can ignore it as insignificant

[@mauriciootalvaroospina9978]

Excelent video. I need to connect my Blackvue camera to the power magic pro, it has 3 cables as yours but on the fuse panel all the fuses are batt+ and the manual says i have to connect the BATT+ to a hot fuse and the ACC to one that is off when the car is off. The Mazda CX30 2021 doesnt have an ACC fuse inside de habitacle. What should I do? why did you install the 2 cables toghether? should i have to do that?

[@TheMissingBolt]

Hi! See the explanation in the video from 14:42 to 17:35 (especially the part from 15:55 to 17:35). The power supply documentation indicates how the red and yellow wires should be connected in order to power up the camera in different modes. Since on the Mazda all the fuses in the driver's compartment are permanently powered on there's no location to connect the yellow wire to in ACC mode. So at least for the power supply I used I had to connect both red and yellow lines to constant power (BATT+ as you say) and this meant the camera is always on, irrespective of whether the engine is on or not. Since this does imply the risk of draining the battery, my power supply has that cut-off switch which is very useful.

[@pramzT]

Great video 👍🏽 maybe a silly question from me but can we not just put a 5amp fuse in an empty slot?

[@Emexrulsier]

You can do, but not all the slots are actually connected to power. Use a multimetre to check, sometimes they are blank because they are used in other countries, such as homelink, but it doesn't mean its actually connected to the battery

[@TheMissingBolt]

As @Emexrulsier explained, slots without fuses are usually not powered on from the battery, so you can't use them.

[@NaviLeinad]

Clipul ta m-a facut sa reconsider inca o data daca s-ar merita o camera integrata ca cea de la Fitcamx sau mai bine procedez ca tine ținând cont ca există o varietate mult mai mare de camere care sa-mi satisfacă pretentiile privind calitatea video

[@TheMissingBolt]

Exact! FitCamX mi se pare foarte scumpa pentru ceea ce ofera.

[@DCHero15]

Salut, Clipsul din stalpul A, cum l-ai pus inapoi pe trim ? L-ai scos afara din caroserie si reintrodus in plastic si montat iara pe masina ?

[@TheMissingBolt]

Salutare! Nu a fost nevoie sa-l scot din caroserie, insa m-am chinuit cateva minute ca sa-l aliniez corect cu plasticul pentru a-l putea pune la loc. E destul de rigida acea banda neagra, dar e suficient de flexibila cat sa o poti roti 90 de grade pentru aliniere.

[@Emexrulsier]

You are not correct on the use of a 10amp fuse in replacement of the original 15amp. That would mean the radio center control in normal operation, which could draw more than 10amps would blow the 10amp fuse and fail to operate, it doesn't share the load over both fuses at the same time to equal 15amp. The same like the dash cam, if that drew more than 5amps, lets say there was a fault, it wouldn't get ignored because you have a 10 or 15amp fuses already there, it would blow the 5amp fuse and cut power. The "piggyback" fuse connectors are wired in parralel not in series (even in series your 10+5amp fuse scenario would be wrong).

[@TheMissingBolt]

Indeed, the radio is designed to take up to 15 Amps and now I've reduced it to 10 Amps, simply because I couldn't source 2 fuses of 12 - 13 Amps for the Audio and only 2 - 3 Amps for the camera. Which is why I tested the Audio on full volume, together with video, to see if it holds with the lower 10 Amp limit (and it does just fine). Since the camera has its own dedicated fuse, in case of failure the 5 Amp fuse should cut first and only disable the camera... but in the worst case, the setup ensures that no more than 15 Amps are ever drawn on the combined circuit from the battery (as I've explained in another comment, we have to maintain a total of 15 Amps to protect the wire that comes from the battery and into the fuse box fort that particular circuit).

[@Emexrulsier]

@TheMissingBolt yeah in his video if the load was greater than 10amps it would blow, but according to him no it wouldn't because the 10amp fuse would magically fuse(no pun) together with the 5amp fuse to create a single 15amp. Is this some sort of terminator t1000 liquid metal scenario :)

[@TheMissingBolt]

@@Emexrulsier Nope, it's simply the application of Kirchoff's 1st law: if both the 10A and 5A wires from the fuse towards the camera and Audio module draw full power, then the current from the battery to the fuse box for that circuit will carry 15A, which is its factory design limit.

[@remypopa]

Salutare, ai avut vreo problemă la reprezentanta cu garanția mașinii?!

[@TheMissingBolt]

Salutare! Nu, n-a fost nici o problema. Am trecut pe la reprezentanta pentru un schimb de ulei cu camera montata si nu a zis nimeni nimic.

[@remypopa]

@ mulțam de răspuns! Și mai așteptăm la primăvară video-uri reprezentative!

[@ArnoldHolota]

Will the Smart box work (I mean, will it disconnect from the battery when the voltage in the battery drops below the set value, e.g. 12V), when the red and yellow wires are connected together?

[@TheMissingBolt]

That's a fair question. I haven't tested it myself, but as far as I know, the disconnect function doesn't care how the wires are connected, it only looks at the input voltage and works with a typical tolerance of +/- 0.1V. So if you set it to disconnect at 12V, it should disconnect no lower than 11.9V no matter how the red and yellow wires are installed.

[@vincentlee2460]

So your setup will always be recording video until the cutoff voltage kicks in to stop the camera recording.

[@TheMissingBolt]

Correct. Purely because all fuses accessible from inside the cabin are constantly powered.

[@vladbucica4825]

Salut am 2 intrebari 1 De ce nu ai incercat sa te conectezi la sigurantele din compartimentul motor separat pe galben si rosu ? 2 Am vazut discutia de mai jos legata de sigurante 15A vs 10A si intrebarea mea e nu poti renunta la cea de 5A si sa o pastrezi pe cea de 15A pentru protectia radioului si sa lasi fara protectie camera ? Multumesc.

[@TheMissingBolt]

Salutare! Pentru (1), motivul e simplu - ar fi trebuit sa trec cu firul de alimentare prin peretele despartitor dintre compartimentul motor si habitaclu, ceea ce ar fi fost mult mai complicat si mai riscant ... e mult mai simplu sa tragi un fir de alimentare de la siguratele din habitaclu decat de la cele din afara lui; pentru (2) raspunsul este un foarte clar "nu", pentru ca este extrem de gresit sa alimentezi un circuit suplimentar fara o siguranta - daca modulul alimentat face un scurt intern, curentul va fi limitat doar de fir si va duce la arderea firului in interval de 1 - 2 secunde, moment in care te va costa foarte mult in timp si bani sa repari instalatia electrica a masinii (nu mai vorbim de riscul major de incendiu)

[@NaviLeinad]

Salut, mă bucur că în sfârșit cineva s-a gândit să facă un clip depre asta și eu am obiceiul sa postez clipuri despre anumite lucruri pe care le fac mai ales când ele nu se regăsesc pe KZbin, în speranța că poate să ajute pe cineva.

[@TheMissingBolt]

Multumesc! Da, exact pe acelasi principiu merg si eu.🙂