DIY Carbon Fiber Car Hood (Ep. 58)

[@SupercarSeany]

Man you've got this down. Really appreciate you showing us all the trials along the way. Well done!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks...this one felt pretty good.

[@Slayerplayer05]

I watched all of the composite videos years ago , but forgot you demonstrated the foam core support process. This video is absolutely key what I have planned for creating the fenders that I need to replace. Thanks again for the videos !!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mickheaton4609]

I was always curious how something like this works. I have a reasonable amount of epoxy/fiberglass non-mold work. Great narration on what you are doing as well. Thanks for taking the time to make videos on your processes.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for watching Mick.

[@acurafillfilip9868]

What a job, man! More excitement than a football game when you separated the part from the mould! But the end product came out nicely!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - with the furnace dying...it was an event.

[@ajhartmanaero]

Joel is a good dude! He makes some killer parts. For having a small flange you did good on this part.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks! Yes - his parts are awesome. 100% carbon is rare these days.

[@ajhartmanaero]

Throttle Stop Garage it is. There’s a few of us making full carbon parts tho. One of my more watched videos is one where I show people how to tell if your part is full carbon, or one layer of carbon backed with fiberglass.

[@JoelArseneaultYouTube]

Well done. That's gotta be a good feeling when you pop it out and see that all your effort worked out.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

About as much fun as you can have in your garage.

[@2WheelsSometimes1]

Hokey smokes there bud. The amount of information and demonstration you showed in this video is fantastic and greatly appreciated. I've done a couple of test pieces and a lot of what's in your video will help with when I start to make my molds and parts. Thanks a bunch.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad you've found it useful.

[@jcadult101]

Love the expression every time something pops outta the molds!! The '2 bucket' method I picked up was not simply with premeasuring, but using 2 mixing buckets to ensure both parts are well mixed. Imagine if you miss a bit of part A in the bottom of the big tub, you have a potential for a bit of unhardened (able) material in the part. Now with a second mixing bucket, after mixing A&B you pour that into the center of another bucket, then thoroughly scrape the first and pour into the center of the 2nd bucket and mix it in. What was at the bottom and sizes is now at the top and what has been mixed along the bottom and walls.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I used that method as well...it's like nested two buckets.

[@jcadult101]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Gotcha. And the best dispensing tip I've seen with 5 gal buckets is to tip them over so the pour spout is at the top with the lid over the edge of the workbench. Roll the bucket so the spout lowers to the level of the epoxy, then catch the stream in your bucket. Simply roll it back to stop the pour. Not sure it would work with the square container, but you could transfer to a round paint bucket, I know HD has 3gal in addition to 1 and 5. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYTNpJSqaJZ0nJI

[@zanesouthgate660]

Thank you for the video series, well done for a one man show. For your core strength material the same company does what is called Divini-Cell. Which is cubed out in 1" squares already with a mesh backing. Saving a bit of time creating your own.

[@iangiles4485]

Awesome work Craig, I am always amazed at you skill, patience and commitment for perfection

[@HellfishFIN]

I used to put tire valve in middle of the mold to pop up parts. Taped it over before laying gelcoat. Worked well enough, and left such a minor mark to surface that was minute to puff out from gelcoat.

[@IngeBall]

Wouldn't it be better to put the valve in the flange? That part is cut anyway.

[@SwedishCrack]

Eye candy for a volvo lover!!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks!

[@jeffh6971]

Awesome work! Really interested in how you build the frame for the hood!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I should have that video done for next week Jeff. Thanks.

[@GarageTimeAutoResto]

great outcome! Would like to learn more about these materials. That infusion process was really cool.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

There is a mountain of things to go through - but you're a skilled builder, so no problem. I went through the carbon fiber details in an earlier video (Ep. 53) - the satin weave was selected because of the shapes I have to deal with - which are similar to your 911 (say for the fenders) and I wanted one material for all my parts. I could have gone with a 2 X 2 twill of a similar weight as it would also be a fine choice. Infusing parts is great for home builders. You can achieve almost optimal resin to fabric ratios in a process that I have found to be congruent with garage building.

[@jq4t49f3]

Good English, good music, great workmanship!

[@ronplucksstrings7112]

Is it possible to share in someone's excitement (like when that hood separated from the mold)...I just answered that question to myself: Yes it is! I'm thinking that the dual wall/with core material construction can only help with engine sound dampening. I'm enjoying coming on this journey with you... Cheers from Connecticut!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Ron - it was nice to have it release so well.

[@AndyFromm]

I'd love you to make my thunderbird a nice hood like that.

[@RiazRJ]

That’s brilliant, great work. New to your channel but watched a few videos now and it’s great 👍🏼 making me want to have a crack at making some panels for my car, made a few small components via wet lay-up

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Welcome aboard!

[@mndlessdrwer]

If you decide to build something like a space frame race car in the future, you can actually purchase various sizes and constructions of carbon fiber tubing. While it is difficult to actually assemble the frame entirely from this kind of tubing, you can use a high quality steel pipe of an appropriate inner diameter, something like chromoly steel, and weld up some joining fixtures for the carbon fiber to get panel-bonded into. The end result should be a space frame that is just as stiff as a completely steel frame, but with a third less mass. Make the tub and shell out of carbon fiber and you can make a ludicrously fast car with a lot less power, thus providing you with improved reliability. You would want to use some skeletonized foam panels inserted between the layers of the tub and the shell to ensure that both are as rigid as possible. Just think of the triangulation methods used when designing the space frame to figure out where to place the foam reinforcement.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm considering something along these lines.

[@mndlessdrwer]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Then the people like me who live our best shop lives vicariously through you will have much to look forward to even after you are able to finish the work on your Volvo.

[@fredygump5578]

Thanks for showing this! I learned a few things that will help me out on my project.

[@DMAX_DIY]

Oh that's awesome my friend! Watched till the end POP for sure!! cause I already ordered all my stuff and ready to make some part in OCTOBER 2021!! Should either be a complete disaster or some cool parts.. I'm ready!! DMAX motion sim ch

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Fingers crossed. I hope your parts turn out.

[@DMAX_DIY]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Yep.. WET layup over foam.. We shall see. I will post the video's anyway.. DMAX

[@russellreeves202]

Great series, I'm really enjoying it. Quick question. Why doesn't the foam core people sell it pre punched so you don't have to drill it?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

It does exist - I just didn't have the option when I purchased this stuff.

[@pete1394]

EPIC!!!!! I cant stop watching, great job!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks

[@larryrosa6995]

really need automotive tire nozzels..... the bolt up kind that you super attach to the bottom of the mold & then use an air nozzle from the compressor and WAMM-O ........the part POPS !

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Great tip!

[@djremotion2]

Gotta say: nice work!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks!

[@Mdf76]

very good work ! very good work !

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks a lot!

[@zheneggmobile]

awesome, thanks for the motivation

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

You're so welcome!

[@av8shunmeckaneck]

Once you see it....You cant stop looking at it. Giant cobb webs covering the bucket on the hydraulic press.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

At least you know my spider buddy is alive.

[@andynicoll8566]

And of course you made new carbon fan blades.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - never even thought of it. I did get a reasonable replacement fan blade and motor.

[@anidiotinaracingcar4874]

Is there a video in which you sum up the process a bit? (Answering questions like why you need the infusion to be so slow, how much does the primer help in the demolding, are there different types of mesh and how to choose the right one, how different would prepreg be, ...)

[@anidiotinaracingcar4874]

And, most important of all: how will you make that carbon fiber fan blade replacement?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I sort of did that in the wrap up video. The primer is no problem for demolding but correct application of the release agent is critical.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - I got a stock replacement...then the following year the inducer motor went. The struggle is real.

[@anidiotinaracingcar4874]

@@ThrottleStopGarage I bet the primer is no issue for demolding but I would have thought it eased it. What's the poing of the primer if it doesn't make your life easier?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@anidiotinaracingcar4874 What it does is save one step when the part is removed from the mold. So no need to prime later...and I knew it was going to be quite a bit later that they would see paint. So a layer of protection. It will also seal little imperfections in the mold and give a bit of room for sanding later. The bond with the carbon is also excellent.

[@nickblosser]

So thorough!!! Love your stuff!!!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks so much!

[@IngeBall]

Finally! I've been waiting for you 😃

[@iambeeman1]

Word of warning, when fixing a mold with dissimilar gel coats, they may sand differently and be difficult to achieve a perfectly smooth finish.

[@SS454LS6]

just found your channel today and already a new video. My lucky day! Any reason to use the foam core (that takes lots of work it seems) over a honeycomb core?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

You can't use resin infusion for honeycomb cores because they fill with resin. They're used in prepreg applications or more complex things that I can attempt.

[@HutchinsRacing]

Awesome work! Very informative. Is drilling the foam core required? I’m assuming that’s just to increase the strength and allow the resin to flow through the core panel? I am attempting to build a carbon hardtop for my Miata.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks, Yes - drilling the foam is required. If you don't, your infusion might not be complete on the other side of the foam.

[@IdzharMax_IsaTurbo]

I like good job 🇲🇾 i learning more.

[@larryrosa6995]

since the part is not pretty & it is primed, this part should also be small pieces hand laminated in..... lay down some hand cut plain strips if you like where the small pieces will overlap......just the first layer..............

[@ChilledSon]

Wow this is amazing work. I am so glad I just found your channel. Sub'd.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Awesome, thank you!

[@hcfcustoms]

Bloody brilliant!

[@anidiotinaracingcar4874]

If you change your mind on the carbon look, is it still possible to sand the primer and clearcoat the panels? Have you considered a two-tone (carbon & paint) finish?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

You could - I wouldn't ever want to, so that's why I primed. I don't like 2-tone cars (not Chip Foose!). I think if you're doing a carbon car to show off the carbon, then that's what you do - there is a clear that you can spray after (not sure if it's in-mold friendly) - Sunshield - great stuff. I may do a few parts like this on the next build...when this nightmare is over.

[@glassblastcollision]

I see you use air ,any chance you could put an air fitting in the back side of the mold?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm going to try this in my next mold. Quite excited to see how it will work.

[@KSIXRIDER]

Great job!

[@naturalmystics-kd9vt]

Good day I like your work great video please me what kind of epoxy resin you use the thank you

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Pro-Set INF-114 Infusion Epoxy with INF-212 Slow Hardener...it's in the description.

[@ivansidoruk7542]

how do you make the mold!?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

It's just a fibreglass mold. I've covered how they're made in several other videos on my channel. Stop by and have a look.

[@BasinMotorsports]

You're making me believe I should buy some materials this year and give it a go on something. Fantastic work.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

No problem - you can do it.

[@BillPhillips4]

Great video! I'm try to get a sense of judgement on how much carbon fiber is needed for a strong panel. I think I counted the following layers: 6k satin unidirectional east-west 12k 45 degree biaxial 6k satin unidirectional north-south 1/8" foam core 6k satin unidirectional east-west 12k 45 degree biaxial 6k satin unidirectional north-south Did I get that right?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Hi Bill - Yes, it's a balanced stack. The core is 1/4" - part numbers are in the description.

[@ferrariguy8278]

I'm always looking forward to the next episode. Great work, and a great vicarious learning experience for the rest of us. I have a thought on your core materials though. That seemed WAY too labor intensive to drill all those holes. Check out the CEW.Manufacturing youtube channel for the CF BMW hood he made. He dealt with perforating the core materials by making a nail-board with a push-release mechanism so he could do large sections at a time. (He also has a video specifically on building the tool.) Personally I'd think of making a rolling / roller perforator if I had to do that a lot. Maybe something for next time....

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

The only way to do it properly would be to make a punch. Nails will make a hole, but not a precise hole. Time isn't a problem.

[@SoftiesTruck]

Very nice!!!!! What’s the cost in materials for a hood like this?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Video coming...not including the work to make the mold. The materials in this stack would be $600 odd dollars just for the skin.

[@jcadult101]

@@ThrottleStopGarage So $4 US?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@jcadult101 Give or take.

[@barrettgoss5981]

That's exactly what I was wondering. Cost of materials for just the hood... and cost of materials for just the hood mold... can't wait for the next video!

[@frotobaggins7169]

could you just weigh the entire hood using the previous weight as a tare to subtract and get the weight of the new material?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Sure - if you have a scale that will work.

[@frotobaggins7169]

@@ThrottleStopGarage when i thought about this, it doesn't make sense to way more than a few kilo's to find a few grams. i guess. lol

[@JKholmatov]

what are the disadvantages of carbon fiber body comparing aluminum body?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Not sure - the carbon is stiffer for sure. Both take a long time.

[@madduck692002]

Which video (yours) shows how to make the molds in depth?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I did that in Episode 49 (the sound levels are a mess...sorry), I have a better version of that video that I will post this week and I'm working on more videos that cover mold/plug making coming up. So I'd wait a bit.

[@larryrosa6995]

this mold should have a 2x4 table frame attached with plaster.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

This was one of my first molds...not really how I would do it now. Live and learn!

[@Kowalski401]

Wonderful!

[@not2late2game53]

Well Done ! You've got to feel good about that accomplishment :-)

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

It's been a bit of a roller coaster that's for sure.

[@kevinkev1530]

Great info

[@Stuntman_mark]

What layers of carbon fiber were put on after the core material, and in what direction?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Same as the first three - it's a balanced stack. So satin running north south, biaxial, then satin running east west.

[@stephenwhite5444]

LOVE your work and videos!....is it possible to sand down a carbon fiber hood down to the mat then apply resin to build it back up?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Stephen. I'm going to assume you've got a clear coat of some sort on the hood? If so, then sure - just be VERY careful - #1 Carbon fibre has very low abrasion resistance. So it sands very easily and you could damage your hood without trying very hard. #2 Carbon dust is toxic - so wear appropriate PPE at all times. I would not apply a straight epoxy resin - just a good automotive urethane clear is fine. Epoxy yellows if exposed to UV radiation. There are other products to clear carbon fibre.

[@stephenwhite5444]

@@ThrottleStopGarage this hood no longer has clear coat (not sure if it ever did). I'm sanding the actual resin basically making a pass with 120grit and inspecting to see if the etched in spotting is gone (spotting all over the hood). My gut tells me I'll have to remove nearly all the resin (down to the mat) in order to get rid of the spotting. If I sand it down to the fiber, what all coating options are there besides resin? What do you think would be the most durable alternative?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@stephenwhite5444 Interesting - is it a full carbon hood? If it was made correctly, the carbon would be right at the surface. Most quality carbon parts shoot for the lowest resin/carbon ratio they can - more resin make weaker parts not stronger. 120 grit is VERY aggressive. 220 g would be lots. Take your time - fingers crossed.

[@stephenwhite5444]

@@ThrottleStopGarage yes, it's full carbon fiber hood. I'm fairly certain its resin I'm sanding through that has the etching in it...its much slower to sand than typical clear coat and it smells like resin vs typical clear coat. If the resin is usually very thin, just right at the surface of the fiber...then if I sand it down just to very close to the fiber, I should be fine to just clear coat it? I figured it would weaken it....if Im understanding you correctly, that is good to know!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@stephenwhite5444 Just sand it off and use automotive clear. It should be fine.

[@billallmighty]

Would you be interested in creating a carbon fiber hood for my GMC YUKON?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

No sorry - there are professional shops that do this work.

[@danielkane1770]

Can’t give but a singular thumbs up.. coming a long great.. when’s the next video

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Let me catch my breath LOL...I've got it filmed, but need time to cut it and assemble the pieces! I try to stay on a two week release schedule.

[@jcadult101]

@@ThrottleStopGarage No rush!! Is it done yet?!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@jcadult101 ROFL

[@pedrorodriguez6709]

What resin do you use I’ve been looking forward to making my own hood on a 199 GMC Sierra

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I used a Proset Epoxy. Details in the description.

[@ThomasYT-]

Is it more cost effective to make you own carbon fiber hood (including materials and tools) vs buying an aftermarket carbon fiber hood?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

If a hood exists in the aftermarket and you're satisfied with the quality - it's a LOT more cost effective. A LOT.

[@Aldir52]

Amazing work, I would like to ask about the spray (Fibertack MT-1 Spray Tack Adhesive) if you would use it without gelcoat directly into the form of the surface. because whenever I use it it ruins the surface and it stays sticky even after being pulled out of the mold and the resin does not get there. Have you tried it without gelcoat?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Yes, I haven't had any issues with the adhesives. Just fog it on.

[@marioflores768]

Hi. Wonder how much is one of this jobs

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm working on a comprehensive video outlining the costs. Truthfully - it's not cheap. For the hood - probably (I've not done the calculations yet) $500 for the mold and about $700 for the part. Time is the real killer.

[@mattmoilanen3813]

Your "problem" now is that you have such a strong part and strong mold that that part wants to stay where you made it. Ah to have such problems huh!

[@cbryant53]

What’s the cost that goes in to producing a part

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Doing a video soon - I'm just waiting until I'm all done to factor it out. It's not cheap - but I'm also building these parts stronger than they need to be - so economies could be had with fewer layers of carbon.

[@daos3300]

well, that wasn't too bad.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm very happy with the results.

[@rgarrett0811]

How much do you charge to make a carbon fiber hood?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I don't take on outside projects.

[@GaryTaylorvw]

22:16 too many sprouts bud?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Never.

[@kens6164]

Could you give us an estimated cost on this hood

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Hi Ken, Between the mould making and the carbon it's around $1000. I'll be making a detailed video on costs in the future.

[@kens6164]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Im in the process of fixing up a 96 si that i found with 64km on it lol. Really awesome work but my car is old lol and i can get the carbon fiber hood and trunk lid for less then that and i know i would probably mess up. Thanks for the reply

[@pinkeshyadav4965]

I am a fiber worker

[@larryrosa6995]

also........ the parts should be trimmed in the mold [PERIOD]......... so next time you make your cool molds...... make them so that the parts can be trimmed with a new blade untility knife.......... as done in HOOKER HEADERS FIBERGLASS DIVISION FACTORY. 1977-1978 .

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm struggling to visualize this Larry - how does the mold flange work? I'd be afraid of scoring and damaging the mold surface.

[@adamm2716]

surely there's a better core material you don't have to prep for an hour

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

There may well be one now - but at the time (4 years ago) that's what I could get. It wasn't that bad.

[@radianm6]

Would you do my hood?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Sorry - not a business, just a guy in a garage making parts for my car.

[@jamesdeclan7538]

"making a carbon fiber furnace propeller"

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Don't think I didn't ponder it for a minute!

[@FriedTurkey]

5:30 Yikes working on carbon fibre without gloves is a bit too itchy for me.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

What? Raw carbon fiber is as soft as silk and is not at all itchy.

[@FriedTurkey]

@@ThrottleStopGarage for me it gets under my skin and if it's slightly warm then oh boy I've got that going for a while. Might be using slightly different fibers tho as the composite related stuff I do is for the air. Nonetheless, awesome video.

[@peterwooldridge7285]

Smashing....love your enthusiasm. What did it weight in the end. Also what has been the costs in materials.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Coming in the next video. Around 6 kg. Cost is around $600 for the skin.

[@Slayerplayer05]

Did you ever post the "FINAL" of the car totally put together ?? Why did you go with the Volvo 850 engine ?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I will when the car is put together...it's still being built I'm afraid. The engine plan has changed - still using the RN 2.3 bottom end, but I have acquired an S60R engine with VVT and that's going in the build. The idea with the 850 was that I had the RN bottom end and no head...I had a worn out 850 with a good head. The 2.3's are not prone to bores cracking at higher boost levels.

[@juanrafaeltosado1812]

BEAUTIFUL, GOOD JOB ; AMAZING !!! .

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@mikkel1249]

you are a work monster and i look forward seeing you getting the old amazon on the road

[@slothcunt8353]

Love seeing/hearing the metric system being used. Hate having to always stop a video to check a conversion app to get an idea of a weight or size

[@paulkoomen5262]

Well done !

[@MatthieuLibeert]

Good video! As an advice I would advice you to let your part more than 24h in the mould and postcure your part to avoid having the risk of your part warping or having a bad finish over time, specially for car parts that can be exposed to direct sunlight. I can tell that your resin was still a bit fresh when you removed the peelply and infusion mesh 🙂

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Matthieu - I'll be running all the parts through my post-cure oven when done. No heat in the garage was a real problem at the time.

[@markyormark7747]

Why do you not use an envelope bag nylon film? It sure is a lot easier then having the skill and experience to putting in all of those pleats. Yes, they make envelope bagging tube in that large of diameter.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

No reason either way. I made the small flange work.

[@braydensummerlin]

You're using too much bag tape for the pleets. You only need just a bit more than the height of the pleets. 🙃

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I am still learning to get these details right.

[@daleknapke4981]

Since the original steel hood didn’t have any structure I am very curious what the difference in weight was since you used foam core to stiffen the carbon hood.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

It lost a pile of weight. I can't recall the exact numbers, but the CF hood is only 5 kg or so. I needed to redesign the hinges as they were so stiff they would not work.

[@fredblair4307]

i won't go into the details but never never use any glass cleaner or anything like it on fiberglass or any kind of plastic polycarbonate or acrylic its not going to do your parts any good

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I didn't know ammonia was a big concern. Good to know. Thanks Fred.

[@suprarune]

easy composites have many great videos about this and other stuff that might help you. Great video btw

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Cool, thanks!

[@pinkeshyadav4965]

I love this work

[@georgef1176]

If you just lay carbon and don’t press it into corners and reliefs you will get air pin holes

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I did press it into all areas. Thanks.

[@Xappt]

Dont do that part with the compressed air. Most kompressors will acutally get a little bit oli in the lines tho you basically risk to lose the bond between the resin.

[@shanedoyle1057]

Really enjoying this series of videos, thanks a lot for explaining the processes. I still get a little confused over the set up of the vacuum bag and what are the principles or theory behind their set up, is there an animation or diagram of how they should be set up? Also how do you go about incorporating fixtures such as hinge mounts or latches? Anyway look forward to watching the rest of your content 👍 To pour your resin quicker maybe stick a pipe/straw up the nozzle of the bucket, should flow quicker? Maybe not but don’t want it exploding with the air line and covering you with resin! 😂👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Hi Shane - I made a video specifically on vacuum bags (kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmnLaIKon76Zfrc). Just work from the mold surface out - fabric schedule, peel ply, mesh/breather, bag.

[@shanedoyle1057]

@@ThrottleStopGarage that’s great man. Thanks very much. I’m really getting into the idea of moulds etc. I wanted to make a front valance for my car and fairings for a cafe racer had an idea to use insulation board and a hot wire cutter to make the plug. Would it be a viable option do you think? Thanks for the reply and videos I really enjoy the channel I hate the whole 2min things on KZbin where nothing is explained

[@bryangrimshaw5607]

really interesting stuff and really good presentation. i watched the opening video and you said who would be interested in Volvos. sadly i am and many other maligned cars. keep it up . thanks.

[@ВасяТеркин-ь3с]

Круто

[@erictheboringone5292]

I feel so validated right now. I also use bamboo for my stir sticks. Ive got a bunch of really long strips that I’ve had sitting around for 20 years. A couple years ago I started cutting the strips up to use for stir sticks and never looked back.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Great material for stir sticks.

[@kieranplowright7932]

Thta is doing it right Deadication 😊

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - these carbon parts were a lot of work but fun to build.

[@SugarySnackMan]

I'm new to your channel and have really loved your process. Sometimes I watch videos where they've edited out the learning (mistakes) and I feel like they've lied a little. Like, I know it didn't go that easy. It NEVER goes that easy. I cannot wait to see how your project comes together.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - failure is just part of learning. I find it more useful, so I will show all my learning.

[@xnadave]

I think you "need" a CNC router for cutting & drilling the core material. :) Also, any mention of a "blast shield" should be accompanied by a little flying spherical drone shooting blue lasers at Luke Skywalker. Great video, as always. Thanks for the clear, considered explanation and presentation.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Good against remotes is one thing...my CNC router is way too small.

[@xnadave]

@@ThrottleStopGarage :D Mine's too small for a lot of stuff. Probably wouldn't work for this, but I've made large foam parts by slicing up the model and adding alignment pins & slots to each piece (in the model). With a more rigid material, they can snap together like jigsaw pieces. But, for a one-off part, the CAD & CAM time might make this a silly approach.

[@Jeffis2k]

Wow, great work sir.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Many thanks

[@marioflores768]

Thanks for this videos.

[@ldnwholesale8552]

Heavy!! For racecars I see and use single layer panels. This is a good strong panel but probably heavier than a modern steel bonnet

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

This is NOT a race car. I don't know how to make that MORE clear. It's also pure speculation on your part about the weight. I do know what the finished weight is and it's very light. Heavier than a single layer...but I said I was following a layup schedule for long-term durability - weight savings is just a side benefit.