DIY Card Scraper from an Old Hand Saw

In this video, I make a card scraper out of an old hand saw. The hand saw had missing teeth and could not be resharpened.
Video for making the handle for the Hock Tools Burnisher:
• Video

[@petersmedley459]

Seeing making an Ulu from a saw blade, to avoid removing the temper from the steel, he use cold cuts. Marked out the shape he wanted, put it in a vice, to the line that he wanted, then used a steel wood splitting wedge (or cold cut chisel) and hammer to strike on the cut line and break off the waste material.

[@daddyfixesit-th3ls]

This is a totally valid idea...and perhaps the hardness can be reduced by annealing the metal with a torch and allowing it to cool slowly. If so, the whiz wheel heat is not bad but actually aiding the process. I have annealed circular saw blades many times which enables the cutting, shaping and drilling process (for knives) and then I re-harden them with the torch and either a water or oil quench. They are so hard they will break like a pretzel if dropped on the floor and have to be tempered a little with flame or in an oven on 400 for 1/2 to 1 hour. Please check out my video on using paint scrapers for woodworking ("the wonder tool woodworkers forgot about") thanks for posting -nice video

[@BradPow]

I am in need of a card scraper and i have an old saw laying around that i was debating whether or not to recondition it or repurpose it! Thanks for the tips

[@Barrysworkshop]

I hope yours works out well. I still use mine regularly. Definitely worth the effort!

[@TimRoyalPastortim]

Older video... but this might help someone. The induction hardening process used on these non-sharpenable saws makes the edge near the teeth extremely hard. I would cut the blade at least 1.5 inches back from the tooth line to get a better result or use an older cast steel sharpenable saw that is not worth saving.

[@Barrysworkshop]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, you do have to remove the hardened part near the saw teeth. Due to the size of the saw, 1.5" wouldn't leave enough metal to work with.

[@TimRoyalPastortim]

True in this case... you should be able to work with the back of the saw rather than the tooth line edge. Also intentionally overheating while grinding off the teeth should remove some of the temper... though that is risky.

[@kaizoebara]

I find that I can create enough of a burr with my benchstone.

[@Barrysworkshop]

There is certainly more than one way to do most things. Thanks for your comment!

[@I-am-not-a-number]

If you use a thin grinding wheel, say 2mm, it will impart less heat.

[@Barrysworkshop]

Thanks for the comment. Using a thinner grinding wheel to avoid extra heat is a good suggestion. I did end up grinding away the part that was obviously discolored, and controlling the heat as you suggested would have saved some of that work.

[@artrobert0875]

Is that a Rockler bench vise? Is so, how do you like it?

[@Barrysworkshop]

Yes, it's the 7" quick release. It works fine, but I think it's a bit overpriced unless you get it on sale like I did. I did have an issue with it slipping a while back, but I took it apart and cleaned out the threads in the nut which fixed it. (also made a video, fwiw). Other than that, it does it's job well. Thanks for watching.

[@artrobert0875]

Barry's Workshop awesome! Im in the market for one, thats why i asked. Thanks for the quick response. I liked, subscribed, and will check out the other video you mentioned.

[@zafarkhan7783]

You can buy the brand new finished blade lesd than 50 Cents. A futile exercise.

[@Barrysworkshop]

Thanks for your economic perspective!

[@pruff5072]

Where would I find one or what name would I search for to get it at that price?