DIY Digital Soldering Station (Hakko 907 For Cheap)

[@tinkergalboi2209]

FINALLY SOMEONE HAS DONE IT!!! You now belong to the god tier of electronics youtubers. I've been looking for a tutorial on this for years. I've always wondered why no one has made a proper tutorial about it. The amount of detail on the steps are beyond great! I've learned something new today, thank you. Subbed!

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks man! Been using this for nearly 3 years now, now I have two of them. My old version 1 and the version 2 from this video. I'll make a github for the updated version of the code with the PID version of the code.

[@noelarcilla60]

@@TechBuilder Hope you upload them soon. 👍

[@scubador]

Are you in the Philippines? Can i buy one from you instead?

[@clarkso65]

Bilihin ko na lang sobrang PCB mo? Para di na ako mag etch pa :)

[@jackandersonmelgar]

@@TechBuilder sir nakapag gawa kana po ba ng bagong code with PID naman po? gusto ko po sana matutunan yung PID system sa pag control ng heating element po na ito. Salamat po.

[@aimansoul]

I don't understand anything you said in the video but still enjoy watching it. Im really interested in electronics and i hope one day i can understand everything you talk in this video.

[@art58wong]

Good reverse and forward engineering job. I too was blown away at the thermal grease mod. Best thing I watched all day.

[@mikemorin3131]

A big thanks , I spend 6 months in my RV and loving to do projects on the road and my Hanko Take a bit of room and dealing with that pesky extension cord. I printed your lid with a Dewalt battery adapter" That I always carry for my drill" . I also just did one for my nephew in-Law for a Makita battery. I will post both on Thigiverse under HANKO.

[@chrismagruder5718]

This video is awesome, all the details, every step, options for other users while still being quick and entertaining. 10/10 did watch again

[@TechBuilder]

Thank you! It means a lot! ❤️

[@themakester6127]

This will my next soldering station project.

[@TechBuilder]

Enjoy!

[@AnOrangeECat]

I would absolutely die for a DIY kit to buy from you! This looks way more compact than my Chinese 936D soldering station! Kudos!

[@benj7483]

I love the aestheic of the container. Rounded corners ftw.

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks Benj!!

[@aswingsharif6729]

Another excellent DIY explained concisely. Injecting thermal paste inside the soldering iron? A bonus tip!

[@rayscrafield2106]

I am an old man but I sure do enjoy you young folks and all your knowledge. I want to build one of these but I'm not sure I have the ability to do it. Thanks for your video. I'll try to follow along and make one.

[@brianheaton5521]

I love the simplistic design, smooth and clean,im gonna build this

[@isabelcuenca5031]

sexier version of great scott's JBC station. looks really good! I can hear eevblog saying "hakko!" hahaha. The hakko connector was the only thing that kept me from making one before. Thanks for including the pinout documentation. I will try to buy a clone and replace the connector with a 4 pin aux. love the vid 💯

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks!! Ummm I think the aux might be a bad idea since the contact resistance increases overtime when the surface oxidizes. I suggest using two DC jacks or a 4 pin header connector :) Have fun!

[@south.side.papi_]

Someday I wish I could be like you guys, designing and programming stuff. Cheers from the PH!

[@TechBuilder]

Hi! Reading books & journals help! You will be! Just keep your curiosity running! :)

[@leeqa02]

Thermal paste hack is briliant. 👍👍

[@yacsf]

This is the best soldering work station. Simple and direct. No need to spend extra $$$ to buy temperature reader to calibrate

[@clarkso65]

Ang galing mo bata! Sana marami pang mga pinoy na bumangon katulad mo.

[@sofiaco1513]

Your joints are on point! You should do a tutorial on basic soldering. I that LTC chip on the vid one of your new projects? Looks like a big project. Once again, great tutorial!

[@TechBuilder]

Thank you! I plan to post one someday. Yes! It's for a 12 cell lithium SPI BMS project I'm working on.

[@iandrake4683]

Perfection, except for the cringe moment when you used a flat head screw without it being countersunk. 😜 I was like, nooooo.

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks! I ran out of round heads of that size :( It was against my will

[@mahedihassan7611]

Thank you brother i didn't find any solution for my 928D soldering station tip tharmal conductivity. I purchased lots of tip but no one gave me a good result...then i followed your tharmal paste idea...and it was really surprising that my 2 years old iron tip working as like a brand new tip.....thanks

[@mygmail6579]

"If you want to skip through the boring parts click on this timestamp" Nonono, those are juicy detail parts!

[@TechBuilder]

A man of culture!

[@derekrodriguez1341]

I completely understand how to make this and I WANT to make this, but I literally don't have the knowledge for it. I don't understand technical diagrams/schematics and I would have literally no idea how to tune or find out all the voltages stuff. However, thank you so much for making this video. I hope I can make this some day :')

[@ishigamiyu1991]

thanks for the thermistor value graph. since I don't have programming skills or an Arduino I'll just steeeaaal the graph details to make the analog version. thanks again!

[@TheAstronomyDude]

Super cool! Thanks for including all the details of your design process.

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks man!

[@CuriousChan]

The thermal paste "hack" was something I didn't expect, and that's awesome!👍 Hope you'll have more projects in the future; we like them😄!

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks man! It means a lot!

[@____5837]

I would be worried about using thermal paste as most of them degrade around the 300 degree mark

[@ee222]

i just stumbled onto this video from doing a YT search. after watching this video (my 1st from your channel) i decided to sub/bell. thanks for the great info and making it real clear (which includes the superb A/V).

[@TechBuilder]

CORRECTION!!!! - Use the IRLZ44N not the IRFZ44N. The PCB label and schematic on the video lacked the "L". Your MOSFET will run hot if you use the non-logic level IRFZ44N MOSFET. For MOSFET alternatives visit the instructable link. I personally prefer the IRLB4132. - Due to tiny revisions, please refer to the file package schematics or the instructable tutorial. I update them often for typos and corrections. The one on the Google drive is all fixed. - To those who ordered my PCB you should be good to go, the tiny errors in the schematic and PDF files had nothing to do with the PCB links. - I accidentally swapped and mislabeled Vin and Vout from the voltage divider equation when I was transcribing my hand written docs. The computation wasn't affected.

[@alfianross2873]

can i suggest next that you build a soldering station that include a heater gun and banana plug input (for other testing)?

[@TechBuilder]

That's a great idea! I can perhaps make an adapter for this one too :D

[@mr.kalikut4899]

so this doc we can still follow sir right?

[@Van-Hoa-Viet]

I don't see the sleep mode, why don't let the 5th wire be the sensor

[@TechBuilder]

@@Van-Hoa-Viet Want me to add a sleep mode code variant? I don't find the sleep mode useful so I removed it from the code.

[@thienanpham7466]

Hi there, can I ask a question ! I'm interested in you project and i've made the exact same things you did but when i plug everything in the IRL4132 heats up very fast , the Preset temp always 525 i cant change it using potentiometer. Please help me if i 've done anything wrong. Thank you !

[@shanePip]

it's cool that I was able to return to this channel just by searching ASCAS.

[@flyingalbatross9634]

the best project on youtube for beginners in electronics who want to build a variable temp soldering station, brilliant work, thank you so much. I will do a bit of research on how to detect idle on the base to sleep the iron, but any tips would be welcome.

[@marvellmadness]

Nice project, thank you for the hard work you've done, especially for measuring the thermistor resistance value.

[@RoadRunnerMeep]

I love the idea of thermal paste inside the tip

[@packratswhatif.3990]

SUPER, Well done ! This has got to be one the best solder station projects I have come across …… thank you !

[@jaysoncarlferrer6947]

I gotta say, ever since I saw you on the news about the Filipino kid that invented a device that charges your phone while walking I subscribed on your channel. Great content! Keep it up. That thermal paste hack tho. Touché hahaha galing mo man

[@MCsCreations]

Pretty interesting project, dude! Fantastic work! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks MC! Stay safe too!

[@darknessblades]

For easier usage i would suggest using Jumpers on the Arduino, That way you can always Hotswap the arduino if the chip is broken/damaged

[@nikolasparadis7722]

That's a freak'n good vid mate! God, I'm glac you did this,thanks alot, A LOT!!!! Just a little question though: can you tell us an average price of the project (without power supply) ?? Thanks again.

[@enesemektar2689]

So good. This is best project i have ever seen.

[@isabelcuenca5031]

couldn't agree more

[@TechBuilder]

Thank you!

[@anchilot]

im already build this, so far this is the best, now im waiting for another version like t12 😂

[@perldition]

What do your heating-element and the inside of the tips look like when you exchange them after having used thermal paste between them? The datasheets of most thermal pastes I could find indicate that they decompose well below common soldering temperatures.

[@juannadie2897]

Fantastic, you made me go to back to Proteus again (abandoned since 2014). I will try a slight add thinking on using it hours in a real job. I miss someting to reduce temp when device is in support unused waiting for Next solder attempt. I think a LDR placed on the external support could do the job, when dark comes "handle on support" the arduino could pass to económic Mode. When darkness goes away "Handle out of support" back to normal Mode again. Just an additional 2 pin plug for the external LDR and some board modification.

[@EZY3DLAB]

I really love your mini prototyping projects!

[@snrsmh]

Applying thermal paste is a brilliant idea.

[@JamieBainbridge]

This is honestly better than every commercial soldering station I've bought or used.

[@HMProjects]

Why did you run the +5V on the pcb from the Arduino that power's up the LM358 and the LCD display through the A3 pin of the Arduino?, does that not affect something?, and still the schematic doesn't show that connection. And another thing is that driving the mosfet directly from Arduino is not quite ideal because the output is only 5V and the mosfet will not be fully opened and will run a bit hot, you need at least 10 V on the gate.

[@PeterChang93]

Could you get enough resolution by swapping the positions of R1 and R2 @2:03, or is there a reason you can't wire the thermistor before R1?

[@stephencraig7376]

Ngayon ko lang ulit naalala to si sir angelo Napanood ko dati sa tv Yung video nya regarding sa piezoelectric generator Na amaze ako non kasi nabalita sa tv yon Naalala ko lang damit nya nung nasa table sya tas nakasalamin sya Nung hinanap ko ibang video regarding sayo sir nagulat ako hehe Nakaka inspire sobra hehe mahilig din ako sa electronics, sa mga pangangalikot Skl hehe, idol ka sir angelo Btw tanong ko lang po saan kayo na order ng parts niyan sa manila hehe Salamat sir angelo ! Idol!!

[@raffyvibes2417]

Thank you sir..sa pagshare ng knowledge...dami kong natutunan sa mga unang videos ,napakalinis mo gumawa ..GODbless your channel..

[@TechBuilder]

Walang anuman! :D

[@mickirock1623]

This tutorial was what IM looking for a year, thanks for sharing 👍

[@VadeniucROKasCoTV]

I can use with drill machine battery (18v 5A)? Where we don't have access to electricity.

[@TechBuilder]

Most definitely! I sometimes hook up mine with Dewalt and Makita batts.

[@muhammadbasir83]

Love the idea of thermal grease. I will use it on my station.

[@og9806]

I decided to use a pin header for the connections. Plus, I figured why you are able to disconnect the soldering iron: in case the soldering iron gets destroyed, you can replace it easily.

[@amtpdb1]

I ordered the boards and just waiting for them to come! Thanks

[@vaqtinchaoshiq]

У меня сопротивление у датчика всего 1.5 ома (при температуре 30 г). А не 50 ома как у вас. И когда подал напряжение 12в (то что был в руках) сопротивление датчика поднялось до 120 ома (к сожалению не было возможности измерять температуру наконечнике) Как мне поступить? Хочу повторить проект. Как я понял надо заново рассчитать сопротивление резисторов да? Не могли бы помочь? Спасибо заранее.

[@kolirock4836]

Is that possible with a MOSFET driver and irfz44n, I can't find IRL version. If possible then can you say the frequency needs for MOSFET driver? Please 🥺🙏

[@timothyreyes5392]

Hats off mah dude! off to the next version lipo powered smart soldering iron like the TS100 hehehe

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks tim! G! ❤️

[@John_Smith__]

Good project but ... there are some issues with this setup: 1- The very cheap Hakko clones handles do not have ceramic heaters. I storngly suggest replacing the heating element for the Hakko 1321. 2- If the heating element is a Hakko 1321 (or clone of that) ceramic heating element then the iron will have 50W of power and have JK junction sensors, not thermistors. 3- Even if IRFZ44N is a logic level mosfet (for 5V logic) at least for up to 10A-20A Drain current it requires a drive since you're actuating the mosfet with a PWM cycle. I imagine the PWM cycle could reach 30KHz-50KHz ... so that means a transistor to drive the base is necessary. 4- A simple linear regulator even in a TO-92 package would suffice to be the source power for the arduino and Display there's no need for the module used although of course that works also.

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks! I did mention in in the video to replace the clone heating element with an original one, they're pretty cheap too. Yep, other models use thermocouples, the MAX6675 would work well with k-types. The PWM frequency with pin 10 was left on Arduino's default frequency of 490Hz, the IRFZ44N should suffice. I've built three of these already, they're pretty stable. The IRLB4132 on the other hand is my favourite logic level MOSFETs for most PWM projects below 30V. For the regulator, I'm assuming you're referring to the 78L05. Dont forget, that the LCD backlight is relatively power hungry if a linear regulator were to be used for a 24V-5V voltage difference (if vin is bypassed). The system on standby runs at around 0.12A at 5V, at 24V the heat dissipated is around 2.2W, most TO-92 linear regulators are limited to 1W. In my experience these often fail fast when the thermals are neglected. The TO-220 7805 would be a wise choice, but heatsinking would probably be required. Regardless if it was board mounted or D2PAK soldered, it's going to dissipate too much heat. I went with the buck since the specific model to keep the board small, cool and effecient. Bucks are kinda cheap these days :) But I guess there's no stopping on anyone who decides to hotwire a linear reg on the buck pins.

[@John_Smith__]

@@TechBuilder If you only use 490Hz then it may be stable since the gate will have time to discharge and charge with not a significant amount of RC dumping effect. But the change for a 1321 ceramic heating element I strongly suggest. It's a big difference specially when it comes to heating times. It heats to the setpoint temperature much faster then those pre-instaled in very cheap 907 handles. And also they're not that expensive. I also prefer the IRBL4132 but I think I have the same problem you have ... a ton of IRFZ44N lying around waiting to be used :) About the linear regulator well with the display being a 1602 you're right a TO-220 would be advisable, with a heatsink. Like I said the small buck converter works just fine.

[@amtpdb1]

A good video would be showing those of us that are interested in learning the Arduino code would be watching you explain the program that you developed for this project. Thanks for the video.

[@FantaBH]

lol nice , never seen before, replacement for original connector, old 5 pin audio jack. Nice idea.

[@611recruitment3]

Nice project. I'm hoping that you'll make a T12 soldering station using through hole components.

[@skepticalmom2948]

A welder w101 is a good as is alternative. Heat goes from 300f to 850f. I used all sorts of parts so I needed highest for the bubbling for high voltage parts.

[@Celcius1]

Could you do an upgrade to take a hot air rework station handle as well?

[@yannis92preloude]

Will this work with the iron Hakko FX888D as I have spare iron will be good to make Arduino station.

[@JLCPCB]

This video is awesome! 🥰

[@lelandclayton5462]

I plan to use this for a mini SMD hotplate. I am planning to use some 3D Printer heater cartridges.

[@NimMM]

I've got a spare 15V 3A power brick laying around, is the 12W difference going to be noticeable enough to bother getting another power supply?

[@TechBuilder]

For two years I've been using the version 1 with a 18V 2.5A charger, it didn't bother me at all. Really helped me a lot in soldering guage#10 wires and XT60 connectors like a breeze! As for 15V, I'm not that sure. Are you planning to solder chunky stuff? On the other hand, 24 Volts is amazing!

[@NimMM]

@@TechBuilder I mostly do smaller work, and there's an old weller station that can do the heavier stuff. I'll keep an eye out for a 24V brick next time I need to order some supplies then. Thanks!

[@miriamramstudio3982]

Very interesting, I ended up enjoy the 3 first minutes (boring part), the most ;) Thanks.

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks too! :D

[@TheKarpinTechy]

Another excellent video!! Thumbs up!!❤️😊

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks Manny! :D

[@TheKarpinTechy]

@@TechBuilderThank you din sir for keeping me inspired! Love your videos!😊

[@OhadooElectronics]

Very cool project buddy, I hope I would build a similar one soon , it's really nice

[@Scrogan]

Why use a nano when any ATtiny would suffice? I’d also seriously considering overvolting it to 30-36VDC. There’s little risk of the element fusing, especially if you use a PID algorithm to stop the temperature rising so quickly, but it could be a great help when working on heavy gauge materials. I’d also like to see this done with a T12 handle, as the cartridge tips tend to have significantly better thermal performance, if for a higher price. Their thermistor layout is also kinda odd from what I remember, so temperature sensing may be more difficult.

[@TechBuilder]

While ATtiny is cheaper, the beginner's in electronics are much more familiar with the Nano. Overvolting is a good idea but tiny bucks that can support above 30V are harder to find for the newbies. This tutorial was made in a way to let beginners get into MCUs and not scare them away. I have separate tech savy tutorial segments like the recent MPPT SCC where I didn't hold back from the component selection. I might revisit this old project and make a beefier and complex version of it. There's also a better version of the T12, I might use it if I were to revisit this project.

[@milosbasara]

@@TechBuilder Any progress with T12 version model?

[@chanelndeso114]

whether the support temp drops automatically if it is not in use when it is on

[@meddiys6171]

Thank you for your project, i made it but for the first while it doesn't work because you have missed the GND wire on you PCB (PDF) and when i added this wire every thing is was ok. So thanks any way.

[@RicardoCooper]

LOL adding thermal paste, that's new to me but it makes sense.

[@analogman7793]

Galing! Lulet! Astig! Thank you for your sharing Sir.

[@iktinos3478]

hi! Can we use t12 handle in this project?

[@yeshecan7]

I'm having a problem. The preset temperature says "cool" even after I turn the potentiometer knob. Why is it?

[@mamadz]

Hey dude, can i replace the soldering iron with hakko T-12, if that's possible are i have to change the arduino code ?..pls answer...

[@amtpdb1]

I built it and did it the best that I could to follow the schematic. I purchased the boards from china. Looked at the drawings but couldn't be sure to find out if I had wired the sensor and the heater properly. Something is wrong as the solder even melted with the iron turned all the way down. Try checking the ohms on the sensor and heater and they both run about the same! Can anyone give me a link to an iron that they've made it work? Thanks for any help.

[@ChadKapper]

Just ordered your PCB!

[@TechBuilder]

Thanks! It's a safe and stable build. Enjoy! :D

[@noelarcilla60]

Thanks for sharing. The diagram does not show the buck converter though.

[@im_waz2464]

The inbuilt K type thermocouple measures ADC values against the tip thermometer temperature. This is how you calibrated ? Pls mention the use of k type thermocouple

[@mehrzadmehregan1720]

Hi friend. Thank a lot. Please answer me. I built this project. But I have a problem in handle connecting. The ground pin on the handle should be connected to which point of the board? Because I see 4 point on the board for handle connecting. And I don't see a point for 5th pin on the board ( Ground pin )

[@bachquocnam7569]

Can I replace irlz44n with irf3205?

[@dragonfireproductions790]

You never fail to impress me dude 😍

[@TechBuilder]

❤️

[@derFleder]

Thank you kindly for this tutorial. Do you think you could provide info about how you would implement the fuse in there, that you mentioned?

[@seazilialiabond5740]

Hello dear brother,can you help me to give information that,which type of soldering iron is safe for electronics ics and components AC or DC soldering iron?because static electricity makes fault,most of in market ac soldering iron is available,and most person use that for mobile repair also.but i have confussion abopuit which is safe?....

[@hagartm]

I'm a bit confused about the A1321 heater (honestly): how can a ~3 Ohms resistance device, working at 24V produce no more than 50W? 🤔

[@TechBuilder]

I have to revisit my data from years ago. But as far as I could recall, the heater has a positive thermal coefficient (resistance increases as the heater temperature increases). TBH it’s favorable as it can possibly prevent the heater from having a meltdown if thermal runaway occurs.

[@hagartm]

@@TechBuilder I hear you about the positive thermal coefficient, but, shouldn't the initial power surge (when the station is turned on), be a problem? And it's probably not a short surge, more like several seconds. The resistance probably won't start rising (enough), for 5-10 seconds, and during that time, the heater will draw something like 8-9A.

[@TechBuilder]

@@hagartm It can be a problem if the PSU does not have a constant current limit. I have experienced a problem from a similar project years ago, where the PSU only has a over current cut-off (hiccup mode of OC protection), which made the heater heat up longer compared to a CC regulated PSU. Some laptop chargers have CC regulation or most at least have the Hiccup OC protection. Full disclosure, the code does not have that initial ramp current limit. The best way to implement this is to add a current sensor and use it as a feedback for PWM control (in turn, this increases complexity). A simpler way to do this without and hardware add-ons is to set an arbitrary PWM duty cycle ramp to control the initial ramp current. To do this effectively, you might have to sit around and gather data on the voltage, current, temp then derive the heater resistance using a spreadsheet. This way you can determine the required PWM duty cycle to limit the ramp current for a period of time. Mine has been running for 4 years now with regular use, it hasn’t died on me so far, nor had problems with it :) It runs along side my Miniware TS101. I still prefer the Hakko for its grip haha.

[@hagartm]

@@TechBuilder I hear you about the constant current limit as well, but then, why not simplify the design?? (Not your design, speaking in general terms). Why not run the heater at 9V?! That would make for a 2-3A current draw, and there would be no need for PWM (I'm probably missing something trivial, but it 'is' kinda weird; wish I could find the technical papers for the original Hakko 936 (not the manual, something more in depth)).

[@TechBuilder]

@@hagartm I get what you mean. If I could recall correctly, the resistance reaches 11 ohms at 450 degrees C (due to its PTC; thus the 50W rating). Running a lower voltage PSU would work (I used to have a 18V brick attached to it before I upgraded to a 24V one), but doing so would also limit the heater’s maximum heating temperature and ramp up time. This is why I still keep the 907 even though I have the TS101, I programmed my 907 to have a temp limit above 490 degC. (Kinda useful for soldering chunky gauge 10 wires). Whilst it is dangerous, I only go above its intended limit in short periods of time and keep an eye on it. I ran into a similar problem when I made this project, I couldn’t find graphs on Hakko’s heating element, so I had to evaluate it. You can visit the instructables link in the vid description, there’s a spreadsheet there. I just hope I could tell my younger self to also record the currents along side the thermistor resistance and heater temps hahaha. I hope that sheet helps with your project :)

[@tomchen9111]

You had done a great job on this soldering station. Perhaps you can design a desoldering station for your later project. de-soldering stations are very useful tools and very expensive.

[@TechBuilder]

I made one! Now that you've mentioned it, I'll make a video about it! :D

[@kadekastraantara4400]

Thanks for the inspiration. Can you make a rework station. With this detailed explanation. Thank you

[@reinaldodesouza5831]

Hi. Nice project, thank you for share. I'm trying to use another iron with same power(24 Volts 50 Watts) but different settings. Mesuaring the temperature and thermistor resistance i could see this; 2,4 ohms @ 26º and 20 ohms @ 480º celsius. Can you help calculate the parametres and R value ?

[@ChrisLocke1969]

Excellent video, and intriguing project that I will surely be building soon!!

[@TechBuilder]

Thank you! Have fun! :D

[@ishigamiyu1991]

at 2:03 the Vin and Vout are switched I believe

[@Alan96555]

Si, se equivoco en el divisor de tension.

[@premkumar-pt1gj]

Hello I made home made pcb with single sided should I do jumper which you given in middle please reply thank you

[@MrRonychakraborty]

I like ur video because u finish it with very efficient time. Love u

[@simrtech3d]

do you think we can connect the hakko gun? next to making a vacuum pump to make a desoldering station?

[@angeloevangelou918]

nice project, I am going to try it! I was wondering if there is a diy project for a descent iron tip thermometer... I bought one once but ended up with a "lemon" measuring temps as much as 100 degrees above the actual temp... can you direct me to one such a project, if it exist? thank you much! OR perhaps I could use only the measuring temperature section of the code?

[@Tracktark]

Why did you put a diode across the heater pins? The heater should basically act as a resistor, so a diode shouldn't be required, right?

[@TechBuilder]

It's an extra precaution for people using hakko clone handles. I've read in forums that some heating elements use a coil of nichrome inside the ceramic material, making some inductive as well.

[@electrotsmishar]

Very good video. However, 3:57 Is IRFZ44N logic level one? I think, no

[@NicksStuff]

Most thermal compounds are not able to withstand 350°C and will degrade. Make sure you choose high temp stuff

[@haijiazhu3148]

There is a T12 version. You should definitely take look at those.

[@riyasmu6003]

I finally build this project but the temperature reading of sensor stays at cool all time, any solution