DIY Door Molding Replacement in under 5 minutes!

[@kill4koin013]

Thanks for putting this together. Saved me a fair amount of money and much better done than the other two I viewed. I finished the job (less painting) in about an hour.

[@JoeMartinMVC]

Thank you! I’m glad I was able to help out.

[@venkateshkannan7398]

3 years later, Friday 6AM EST, a DIYer was helped haha. Thanks man❤

[@JoeMartinMVC]

Glad this video is still useful 3 years later. =)

[@dedhampster4730]

Thank you so much for this clear simple video. I have 4 cats and have tried hard to train them not to scratch the house or furniture, but there are 2 door frames in the house and 2 pieces pine furniture that they just can't resist despite the available scratching options nearby. Of course they scratch when we are not around to chastise them. I love that you show the tool you use. Thanks again!

[@JoeMartinMVC]

You're welcome! I'm glad I could help out. =)

[@acchaladka]

Nice straightforward video. I'm in a 100 year old house with masonry walls however. Will Brad nails hold our what technique should i use?

[@JoeMartinMVC]

Thank you. If it's going in to concrete, cinder block, or other masonry, brad nails won't hold, sadly. Typically in that type of situation you would use construction adhesive to essentially glue the molding to the wall. I've always been a fan of Loctite's Power Grab series: amzn.to/3bpsJcf

[@acchaladka]

@@JoeMartinMVC many thanks! First we have to finish the wall, but we have a wooden door frame in the right size and place at least. After fooling with masonry I see why we all switched to drywall in the 1950s.

[@JoeMartinMVC]

@@acchaladka If you've got the wooden doorframe behind drywall then brad nails will work just fine. Yeah, I hate having to deal with masonry. Whether it's fixing the plaster or drilling holes and/or fixing cracks in it, it's always an absolute pain.

[@lynnlovessoil]

Thanks for the quick tutorial

[@JoeMartinMVC]

Glad I could be of help.

[@marialee6258]

Thanks! You make it look so easy

[@JoeMartinMVC]

Maria Lee haha thank you. It really is that simple fortunately. The main thing is just making sure you cut the old caulking before you try to remove the old moulding so you don’t rip the paint off of the wall.

[@marialee6258]

@@JoeMartinMVC ok thanks again!

[@AlexGray]

Thanks for this. I have a lot of these I need to replace. Odd question but how do you record your voice overs to be so smooth and have no echoes in the background?

[@JoeMartinMVC]

You're welcome. =) It's pretty simple fortunately. I use an AT2020USB+ Mic with Audacity. Back when I made this video I would start my voice recordings and let them sit with the ambient noise for 4 seconds before talking, and then record what I'd have to say. I'd then select those 4 seconds, click on "Effect", then "Noise Reduction" and click "Get Noise Profile". After doing that, I'd highlight all of what I had, and then go to Effect-->Noise Reduction and click OK and that reduces most of the echo/noise in the background. A few other small tips: Be close to your microphone, ideally within 6-12 inches. Record in a room that has stuff in it (couches, curtains, general decor), or hang sheets on the wall (I personally love the Harbor Freight Moving Blankets) and it will dampen almost all of the echo and reverberation. You don't need acoustic panels (though I do have a bunch of them sitting in a pile in a closet) to get rid of the echo. If you have a PC with either a GTX 10xx or RTX series card, you can just download RTX voice and it pretty much does all of the editing part I mentioned above for you.

[@JoeMartinMVC]

This is the microphone I bought and use: amzn.to/3dljMmT Eventually I'll be moving over to an XLR setup which is more professional and all that fun stuff, but anyone can get an awesome sounding voice over with just a plug and play USB mic (a good quality one like the AT2020 definitely helps), and a couple of small tweaks in a free application like Audacity.

[@AlexGray]

Thanks so much for the response man I really appreciate the help!!

[@leibniz72]

Was caulk applied to the new piece of trim before installing it?

[@JoeMartinMVC]

Sorry, I missed this comment. It was not, as the piece is brad nailed on, but you could use instant adhesive caulking as an alternative method for attaching it if you didn't want to use nails. Something like Loctite Power Grab would work well in that scenario.

[@georgeedwards3284]

You should lift the molding from the casing side (left side in this video), NOT the drywall side. Otherwise, you risk breaking the underlying drywall when lifting the molding.

[@deepum7814]

Hello, will the process be same for a garage door as well. Any recommendations should I replace the entire wood mold with a PVC one ? thanks

[@JoeMartinMVC]

The process would be the same for any door trim, and I definitely recommend going with pvc for any external door to mitigate any rot that would happen.

[@katherineweinsheim1988]

Need advise for fixing wall behind door trim that was damaged …. Any ideas how to fill in cracked opening?

[@JoeMartinMVC]

It's fairly simple to do, you can use drywall tape inside of the cracked opening, then fill it with drywall mud and smooth it out. I did a video on a similar process for the area behind a baseboard that needed to be repaired: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3axg6KMopx3bsU In the video I use a little bit of Elmer's glue to help with the adhesion of the drywall mud, but it's not completely necessary.

[@holly_cuperus]

How do you do this when there is a metal frame around the door and not drywall?

[@JoeMartinMVC]

There are a few different ways. You can buy trim screws that have a drill point for going in your metal. You can use construction adhesive to glue it on to the frame. Some crazy people use hot glue, but it tends to not sit flush against the wall.

[@RandyMarsh0301]

What size and Gauge brad nails did you use?

[@JoeMartinMVC]

They're either 2 inch or inch and a half long, can't remember. But they're 18 gauge.

[@bagpipelover7]

What happens if you don’t have the nail gun. Would a hammer work?

[@JoeMartinMVC]

A hammer and finishing nails (amzn.to/3ICLFnO) would work just fine. You just want to make sure you're careful when using a hammer not to miss the finishing nail as trim pieces are typically easily dentable. Also once you drive the nail almost all the way in you typically want to use a small punch to drive it below the surface. I always just use a Philips head screw driver on the head of the nail and then give it one more good hit to fully seat it below the surface.

[@rashadbishop1405]

We’re did u get the trim of wood from??

[@JoeMartinMVC]

You can pick up door case molding from any hardware store. I got this one from Home Depot.

[@puddleglummarshwiggle4236]

@@JoeMartinMVC how much are they?

[@JoeMartinMVC]

@@puddleglummarshwiggle4236 I honestly am not sure, as the price of woods and composites has been fluctuating so much lately. Back when I did this it was around $8 per board if I remember correctly.

[@daniellescott363]

Go with a utility knife cut the dap . And pry it out with a bar . It looks like it’s plaster not drywall .

[@JoeMartinMVC]

Utility knife works just as well, just some people prefer using something not quite as sharp. As for a bar (presumably pry bar) it would be a bad idea since this is drywall and if you're not careful or used to prying on drywall you'll put it right through and have a nice big hole that you then have to patch.

[@Ibuki0101]

Good stuff here! :D

[@JoeMartinMVC]

Thank you!

[@lexusgarcia4765]

5mins my ass lol

[@JoeMartinMVC]

It really is about that quick if you use a miter saw instead of a hand saw.

[@ajdonnelly378]

The video is less than 5 minutes. This looks like an 30 min job

[@jbean9021]

And the trip to Home Depot