DIY E bike 72V 20H Battery build - Part 3

In this video, I'll make the battery terminal connections and spot welding it to the battery. Also show the final look of the battery and insulation.

[@akinnon2000]

one of the best build on the entire youtube, you must make more content bro :) very good job.

[@e-biker8406]

Thank you so much.

[@The-bashing-zone]

You could use two neodymium magnets to keep nickel in place on the batteries to hold it for welding.

[@e-biker8406]

For sure were an easier way 😂

[@akinnon2000]

very very clean build. thanks for the video

[@aravindsubramaniam7930]

Awesome work only thing I'm worried about is the parallel groups insulation . You can use motor winding insulation for cell isolation and use electric epoxy to glue both ends

[@greenpixel556]

19*3.7=70.3 correct me if im wrong. I know that fully charged li ions will be 19*4.2=79.8, but we are talking about nominal and not max voltage right ?

[@jonaspoulsen9232]

Absolutely at lot of great inspiration for my own battery build! Thanks for your effort on the videos! 😎🙏

[@e-biker8406]

Thank you a lot for you comment. Happy that you liked it. And question just ask, I’m here to help. Subscribe the channel a video of the ebike making off soon.

[@jonaspoulsen9232]

@@e-biker8406 sounds good.. I guess there will be some questions when start building. One suggestion though.. When you roll the wire into the copper you could have rolled some solder and flux inside too, and then heat it all up afterwards to be sure that the roll is filled with solder.. I think I will try to do it that way and see what happens.

[@e-biker8406]

@@jonaspoulsen9232 Yes, that's an option too. But it's ok to put flux and solder after it will flow and be absorved by the wire, I don't even put too much solder just enough for a good connection.

[@jamo9000]

Another excellent video! - a year on how is the battery? still working or did you have any issue with the connections breaking free. Id be a little concerned of that happening and arching. Mainly as its not a powerful spot welder at all compared to a Kweld etc also especially on the end with the extra weight of the cables potentially working the connections loose.

[@e-biker8406]

The battery was, after the videos, well packed with strong duct tape to keep everything in place. The welds are strong even with the cheap welder, and I’ve made a lot of welds per battery just to be sure.

[@bobravenscraft5376]

Never forget DIMINISHED RETURNS $$$

[@DroneSurf]

Great technique but you need a better spot welder. The connections are weak.

[@e-biker8406]

Ya it’s weak. That’s why I made a bunch of it 😁

[@DroneSurf]

@@e-biker8406 My intention is not be an @#hole my apologies. If you notice in the 19:41 is a good example. As I mentioned is a great technique and I am learning with your video. I have a Glitter 811H welder and I had the Glitter 801H before. Again, Sorry for the comment, my intention was not to bother you.

[@sandeepkudapa3545]

Any sign of oxidation on the copper strip, great vedio btw❤

[@CryoGenic]

How did you go about connecting your BMS balancing wires to the nickel tabs on the cells , I thought the nickel doesn’t doesn’t conduct anything once the copper is beneath it because electricity follows the path of least resistance, just curious as I want to try the copper sandwich method but am not sure if I need to solder directly onto the copper or not , if you see this and reply thanks in advance it will help a bunch 👍🏻

[@e-biker8406]

Hi. Despite the nickel don’t take the amp load it’s still connected to the battery batteries, so connections are live. Simply the power flow goes through the copper and not the higher resistant nickel, but the conductivity between metals always occur.

[@CryoGenic]

@@e-biker8406 that’s awesome really appreciate you for that bit of information and explanation as I couldn’t find it anywhere on Google and will definitely make things easier on my build , thanks again!!

[@FishingPhoFun]

How many amps are you pushing through yiur pack? 20s5p what's that's 175 amps? Is the copper thick enough to handle 175 amps? Thinking about building a pack and I have the same welder.

[@e-biker8406]

My BMS is limited to 80A, I’ve made some calculations for another comment: making some calculation a 0.1mm * 10mm copper strip could handle 15A, I've used a sheet 0.1mm and 105mm wide, that would be like having 10 strips of 10 mm x 0.1mm giving a 150A of constant current capacity, peak will be much higher between parallel groups.

[@FishingPhoFun]

@@e-biker8406 thank you for that. I was looking for stats around .1mm copper but was a bear. Since ur BMS is limiting it, it sounds like it will be perfect. Thank you for the insights!

[@freddywrx3338]

Whats the thickness of the copper sheet

[@bobravenscraft5376]

I use bifr $18 open welder killer. Just let them cool

[@bobravenscraft5376]

Yeah fellas always isolate parallel groups even if it's only by. Anything Tape. Cardboard fire resistant. what have you Right lol!!!

[@UKMrMedical]

How many cells did you use in total

[@e-biker8406]

I used 100 cells. It’s a 20S 5P battery setup

[@UKMrMedical]

@@e-biker8406 thank you so much I am going to be following your video in next couple of days il post a video my self

[@yotflow]

The welder is rated at 650A max. How did it hold through?

[@e-biker8406]

Well, it welded everything. But can’t use it continuously, I’ve stopped, let it cool, recharge it and use again. After 15-20 welds it gets hot as hell, but for the price done a great job.

[@yotflow]

@@e-biker8406 started a 17s10p today. Tried the copper nickel sandwich. My welder blew on me after a few welds. not sure if it was due to the added copper under the nickel or just a defective one. It wasnt the bifrc but other brand. Not sure what to get...

[@e-biker8406]

@@yotflow probably a faulty welder, mine welded a lot, I took it to the limit was so hot that the plastic from probes became soft and impossible to hold, and it’s still kicking. K-weld is very used welder, more expensive of course, check some review videos on KZbin or just give another shot to those cheap ones from AliExpress.

[@ericklein5097]

@@yotflow faulty welder, using copper should not cause anything bad to happen, just subpar welds. I am shocked the BIFRC is able to do this.

[@claudioluismolina1042]

l using two metals...there is no counterproductive effect of corrosion, due to cathode-anode oxidation....in dissimilar metals....mmm. the conduction of electricity passes well but beware of the corrosive effect.... it is a doubt that I have.

[@e-biker8406]

Just copper was used to make the connections. Nickel strip was just to spot weld the copper to the battery

[@slappy8714]

It will be interesting to see how the joint will last. I do not think galvanic degradation will cause the end of this pack before the cells completely die, but that is why I am grateful to the creator of the video for documenting their process. Yes, using silver everywhere and enamel coating everything would theoretically be, "the best for conductivity", but this looks really promising.... btw, heat copper and nickel above melting point and let them cool... it's called bronze.

[@ericklein5097]

There's a reason why nickel is used to plate copper bus bars. Pure copper in contact with pure nickel is one of the best combinations of dissimilar metals out there (that are highly conductive) if you are trying to avoid corrosion. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cupronickel The alloy made of mostly copper and some nickel is "highly resistant to corrosion by salt water, and is therefore used for piping, heat exchangers and condensers in seawater systems, as well as for marine hardware. It is sometimes used for the propellers, propeller shafts, and hulls of high-quality boats. Other uses include military equipment and chemical, petrochemical, and electrical industries." Saltwater....the devil's minigun when it comes to weapons one would use to corrode something as destructively as possible and copper+nickel just laughs.

[@Maxttor]

Como é o nome desse tipo de cabo?

[@e-biker8406]

O cabo grosso é cabo de silicone de alta temperatura, para fazer cabos de arranque para automóveis

[@claudioluismolina1042]

al usar dos metales ...no se produce un efecto contraproducente de corrosion, por oxidacion de catodo anodo....en los metales diferentes.... mmm. la conduccion de electricidad pasa bien pero cuidado con el efecto corrosivo.... es una duda que tengo.

[@e-biker8406]

The materials are the same, is copper on all connections. The nickel strip is just to assist in the welding process. Copper is more prone to oxidation but mainly with water/moisture ou salt water, not so much by air.

[@claudioluismolina1042]

@@e-biker8406 OK. gracias.- Thanks.-

[@bobravenscraft5376]

I did same cept I used copper. Quicker. I try to avoid. The coated stuff on high volts. That's just me PEACE

[@laptech3767]

Where buy copper

[@e-biker8406]

I’ve bought it on Amazon. Copper sheet 0,1mm

[@lanecole1217]

I need 1! Can you build\sell me a custom li-ion ebike battery??? My scotter is 72v 3000w 100a controller.!

[@e-biker8406]

It’s an article hard to ship. Where are you from?

[@brandonwarren8351]

Hopefully those are transparent cells wraps…… as well as transparent fish paper between p groups. Please build safer.

[@e-biker8406]

It’s transparent cell wraps :)

[@bobravenscraft5376]

The takeaway. The more cells you use comes at a cost. Too long to explain. But yes I isolate parallel groups. You can only do so much for protection. That's 1. And use. Minimal cells high mah mid or high Amps

[@e-biker8406]

I struggle to understand your comments 😩

[@ericklein5097]

@@e-biker8406 Everyone does

[@bobravenscraft5376]

I use hobby charger No BMS so I'm an outcast bro lol rebel

[@ericklein5097]

Same, battery murdering systems just don't offer enough protection to justify the problems they create. A quality high current BMS like a JBD 200A is over $100. In some applications it makes sense to have it, in applications where you have the ability to constantly check the battery before things can get out of control a cell voltage buzzer/alarm is enough for the Low Voltage Warning. Overcurrent, Overvoltage, Short Circuit, etc are on you and that means not being a moron.

[@TFengineer]

I don't see how building your own battery is cost effective when 100 these batteries comes out to $500 + tax and maybe shipping. You can just buy the battery pack pre-built for the same price or $50 more. Building your own battery doesn't make sense unless you have a source for CHEAP cells.

[@madmax3288]

Most prebuilt use cheap cells. Build your own u use grade A premium cells.

[@e-biker8406]

Those pre built batteries use cheap chineses cells, that can’t even half the advertised amperage, a battery this size would cost much more than $500, at least here in Europe. Making your own, you can choose the cells you want, the amount of cells you want and also the size/ design, depending of the available space you have on you bike

[@aliancemd]

In Europe, you can buy new(from Nkon for example) 21700 Samsung or Sony/Molicel batteries for 0.7 - 2 Euros, from failed soldering attempts(batteries still new, unused though) or 2 - 5 Euros completely new. A pack of 100xSamsung INR21700-50S 5000mAh - 35A, completely new, would cost 470 Euros but if you go with reclaimed(still unused batteries), you can get them for much cheaper. So, nope, not 500+, even if you try to get the best batteries.

[@vd1261]

Ciao.Alla fine come si comporta la batteria che hai fatto in questo video?

[@e-biker8406]

Battery works great. Those cells are very powerfull

[@vd1261]

Grazie mille per la tua condivisione. Proverò a fare la stessa cosa. Grazie