DIY High Quality Isolation Transformer

[@dmmartindale]

That is a specialized transformer. It has a magnetic shunt located between the two windings, bridging between the centre and the two side legs of the core. This deliberately creates some leakage inductance which makes the transformer drop its output voltage under load in order to maintain a constant current in the lamp despite changes in lamp characteristics. Microwave oven transformers use a shunt for similar reasons: to keep the magnetron power constant despite changes in load. But this shunt is undesirable in a power transformer, so it should be removed. You also need to cover the open side of the box. There shouldn't be any opening large enough for someone to insert their finger into.

[@Dad-ij2qy]

Thank you for showing us your isolation transformer build. I have two suggestions for safety: 1. Add a metal bottom to the power supply box. That way, in the future, when you get an oscilloscope, you won't be so likely so see voltage ripple from the mains power supply. 2. Add a lamp or LED to the top of the box that illuminates when the secondary coil is energized. With the indicator lamp, you'll be more likely to remember to power it off at bedtime.

[@dricklorenz9340]

"High Quality" is a very subjective term

[@photorooster8865]

Kudos explaining why an isolation transformer is necessary. Other channels often fail at this. Keep up the good work.

[@Luke-12V]

Hello, I read that measuring with an oscilloscope, you need an amplifier, you need galvanic separation, I ask from what point of view, when today's amplifiers have only 2 wires. Thank you for any knowledge

[@wateryblaze]

I wouldn't trust a discharge lamp ballast as an isolation transformer and what do you do with the magnetic shunts... those bits of lamination in the gaps either side of the core. That core is actually part of a ferro-resonant power supply, necessary for keeping the output of the lamp constant. The magnetic shunts will bypass some of the magnetism and make your "transformer" less efficient. I don't know if you understand the power triangle part of Ohm's law (P = I x V) but you only have a bit more than 100 watts or or about an amp available. What you are doing, I would consider very risky.

[@klaasklapsigaar1081]

Amen

[@erniegilman5233]

Nice work, indeed, with a few exceptions. 1.It's very unlikely that the average viewer will happen upon the transformer that you base this project on. 2.You don't have any idea how much amperage the transformer can deliver. Another way of saying this is that you don't know whether plugging any particular thing into it will cause it to fail or even to burn. With flames. 3.You speak of the hot glue gun as a heavy load. It is not. A toaster is a heavy load. NEVER plug a toaster into this supply if there are flammable items nearby, nor without a fire extinguisher nearby. 4.Thanks for not using the word "like" but please work on your overuse of the term "so."

[@Yosemite_Sam]

You did not mention the importance of the connection of the round earth terminal. If both earth terminals are connected there is no isolation. Earth on the output should not be connected.

[@WildfoxFabrication]

jeez picky

[@the-beneficiary1809]

well do ohms law 100 watts / 120 = .83 amps which of course is certainly not much power to be expected out of this.

[@srtamplification]

Are you sure that switch is rated for the current that transformer can supply?

[@the-beneficiary1809]

Lol that transformer can not even supply 1 amp 100/120 = .83 amps

[@srtamplification]

@@the-beneficiary1809 The 100W you see on the data plate is just for the type of lamp you would use. This transformer would have to be able to supply much more current to get a Metal Halide lamp to strike.

[@ChrisOlin]

"attach wires with soldering gun" *pulls out an ancient radioshack transformer soldering gun from the 90s*

[@ernieschatz3783]

I love brevity most of the time, but it's probably a good idea to cover the dos and don'ts' with this sort of thing. One of them is whether or not you are carrying the earth ground across and explanations of what worst case scenario if you do or do not. You will inevitably have noobs check in and it looks so easy. Also, somebody will decide that it's easier to buy an iso xfrmr read-made, and not be aware that most of what's offered today passes the earth ground through.

[@ThomasBurns]

Awesome video! Keep them coming!

[@fldave612]

I certainly hope your that is the output on the secondary side of that transformer running at 113 VAC, if that's the mains in your house then you are nearing brownout territory and you've got an unbalanced breaker panel and/or branch circuit loads, a high resistance on your neutral, or the utility service in your area isn't adequate enough to handle the power demands. Voltage too low can do just as much damage to electronics as voltage too high in some cases.

[@immrnoidall]

is this what boats,and a boondocking camper inverter use because they can't connect to earth ground? i am wondering how grounding works in a camper without actually pounding a ground rod in when camping off grid.

[@georgedennison3338]

FYI: That is, (most likely), NOT a street light transformer. Street lights were traditionally mercury vapor lamps . Later, they became high pressure sodium vapor lamps, (the orange/brown lights). If you look closely at the schematic, Tanner, you will see it says "MH 100W" in the upper left corner. That stands for metal halide 100 watts. Metal halide are the lights you find in warehouses, gymnasiums and indoor agricultural greenhouses. I can't say with absolute certainty there are NO street lights with metal halide lamps, but THAT transformer probably isn't because it is only a 100W transformer. Warehouse, gym & greenhouse lamps are more in the neighborhood of 500W or 1000W. I can't recall what a typical mercury vapor street light bulb had for wattage, it's been too long since I had anything to do with them. I do have an indoor greenhouse I built, with a variety of metal halide lamps, from 50W to 500W, and high pressure sodium lamps, with 45W to 1000W, so I do have a good, (current), working knowledge of those lamp types. re: Ernie Gilman comment's 1. finding a metal halide transformer is as easy as chatting up an eletrician who does commercial electrical work. They probably have a bucket of them, waiting for recycling. I have an electrician friend who gives trade-in to his customers for their old equipment, then resells it, (very cheaply), used to medical marijuana growers. 2. Based on the label stating it's a 100W transformer, a little thumbnail math says it's a bit less than 1 amp.

[@georgedennison3338]

I went back at looked at the label again, (2:36), and I believe that is a three phase transformer. I am not a 3ph expert, but isn't it 3ph if it has the 277v, 240v, 208v AND 120v?

[@TannerTech]

+George Dennison Hmm, that is an interesting point. I just looked it up, and in a 3ph circuit, the voltage from any phase to each other is 480 volts while the voltage from any phase to neutral is 277 volts. I assume the transformer allows the witticism to fit it into any voltage of lighting circuit. I found this transformer in a broken parking lot light in a trash pile, so maybe that had a 100 watt MH light?

[@georgedennison3338]

@ tanner that's one type of 3ph. I can't recall which, one is 'wye', the other I can't remember..(brain injury has messed my memory up). I helped a friend with a trailer restauant connect up to power at a gas station a couple of years ago and use the abandoned 3ph for a removed car wash. All I had to do was come off two(?) legs of the 3ph and I had 240v. Either line of that to grnd was 120v. (Someone else had wired in a 240v compressor, so I just copied what they did.) That's about the extent of my 3ph knowledge. I don't work with it very often, so what I learn sometimes, is lost cause of the brain injury. That's going to have to change soon, as I was given several 3ph pieces of equipment for my shop, and will need to get a much better handle on 3ph. Something you might find interesting, related to 3ph is something called the Kamp-Haas 3ph to 1ph welder conversion. Three phase MIG welders (wire feed) can be bought very inexpensively, 100.00, sometimes; and we're talking about $3,000-5,000 machines when new. Three phase is very expensive to get from the power company, so unless you have it, or are in an industrial building, most people can't use them. Also, unlike the cheap welders for 200.00, industrial quality welders have 100% duty cycles, vs the cheapo's having a 15-20%, 30% if you're lucky. Anyway, I know the Kamp half of the brains behind this, and he has proven their conversion works. In simplistic terms, a condenser is used to simulate the 3rd phase, (what we call 1ph is actually 2ph). The condenser is charged by the other legs, then the release is timed to take the place of the 3rd ph. Dave (Kamp) told me it works with a welder, where it won't work with motors, because the timing is not that critical on a non-rotating 3ph device. So, for 100-150.00, you can do what all the welder manufacturers say is impossible; convert a 3ph welder to 1ph. I have contacted most of the major manufacturers about the possibility, and was told 'no can do'. If you Google 'Kamp Haas conversion', you'll find lots about it. The original post is at Practical Machinist, as I recall. They developed the method on Miller welders, but other have converted Lincoln and Esab welders. Check it out, it will expand your knowledge and also might be a way for you to get into a welder that will last your lifetime, on the cheap. I started welding at about your age, and it has been a valuable skill for nearly 50 years. As far as the light, where you found it makes sense. A 100W MH is more of a small parking lot light someone might pickup at Home Depot, and install themselves. It was a good find. Good on you for repurposing, and keeping it from the landfill. Keep your eyes open, and don't be afraid to dumpster dive; I score hundreds of dollars worth of material, parts and equipment every year from simply keeping my eyes open, and scrounging. If you have a sign company close to you, talk to them about their scrap material. Signs, nowadays, are made from foam core PVC plastic, which is not recycleable. It comes in thicknesses from 1/8" to 2", can be machined, (I use it for machining prototypes), drilled, tapped and best, glue-welded with simple PVC piping glue. You can do anything with it you can do with metal, it's easier to work with than wood, it's waterproof, non-conductive, and doesn't need paint. I build things with it, make tool holders from it. Heck, I even built a kitchen cabinet out of it at my NY rental apt, just to see if it would work, (having a sign shop two blocks away with tons of free scrap, doesn't hurt, either!) As I've said before, I'm impressed with your skills and drive; if I can offer one piece of advice, it would be to take 10-15% more time with your prep, planning and research, (PPR), on projects. I KNOW how hard it is to hold back from jumping into projects, but if you invest a little more time in PPR, you will gain more knowledge, skills and develop good habits for the future, no matter what you do. I didn't have anyone to tell me something like this when I was young, (had lots of different skill mentors); it took 8 years of college to learn it, but it did make a scientist out of me. I have one piece of 'life' advice, as well. It's something I realized a few weeks ago: Learn how to clean things, of all kinds, well. I was washing/cleaning/scrubbing something in my shop/sink/bathtub, and realized I have been cleaning things since I was 12. Car parts at my uncle's garage, dishes at restaurants, worksites at the end of projects, used equipment I scrounge, or buy, etc, etc, etc. I'm 65 this year, and looking back on the multitude of skills, jobs and experience I've had, being able, and willing to clean things is the common thread running through my entire life. Sometimes, cleaning something is ALL that is needed to become a 'restoration'. Good luck in all your endeavors. Later... GeoD (add a reply anytime you wanna talk)

[@robertheal5137]

It is both ignorant and arrogant to presume that there are only 2 kinds of street lights. I can show you 8 different kinds within 3 blocks of my house.

[@georgedennison3338]

@Robert Heal What are those 8 different lights? The ONLY three lamps I know of, used for large area lighting are mercury vapor, metal halide and high pressure sodium. I would love to hear what the other five types are, in your neighborhood. Perhaps you didn't notice in your glee to correct someone, but I was talking about LAMP type, not fixture type. Notice, also, I corrected you without calling you either arrogant, or ignorant.

[@mewing_enjoyer]

You not show winding transform, how about ferrite core,,

[@wamgoc3637]

An industrial control transformer is the best bet for a low cost isoformer if you can’t get a real one off craigslist or a ham fest for a small amount of money. I bagged a Sencore one with a built in leakage tester for$10 a month ago.

[@henryswan1374]

does this man hat touching one high voltage contact of a microwave oven transformer when on is safe?

[@Ziplock9000]

NO.

[@freshconnekt]

Explain how an isolation transformer makes you safe from shock?

[@markweber1677]

It's done under the theory there is no direct connection between the input and the output of the Transformer no direct current flows through only AC alternating current signal it's done through magnetism hope it helps

[@michaeldashnaw9627]

Hope you live a long life young fellow!!

[@philnyc]

Mike, I know right !? Fuckin' around with them Amps, kVolts and mWatts, can make your soul depart your body rather quick. YKWIM.

[@beaker2000]

Nice job. You might also just mention that you DO NOT connect the ground wire from the mains to the ground of the plug to make sure that the plug is isolated.

[@beaker2000]

What I meant to say is that the ground isn't connected to Neutral!

[@Ziplock9000]

You should emphasize strongly at the start with a text message this this DOES NOT stop you from getting electrocuted by mains powered devices.

[@MOTHERSKYWOOD]

Tanner Tech you should do a few collabs with TPAI!?! You guys seem to be on the same wavelength.

[@TannerTech]

That would be awesome! I love his videos. A trip to Germany for a collab might be a bit far though

[@MikeTechnology]

great job but some thing you din't take it in consideration first was a fuse at input second at the outpout of the transformer was better if you fuse it as well and as well was better to add a simple halogen lamp let's say 70w or higher this manly for preventing as a example when you work on amplifier of diy transformer is was something to go bad the lamp will tun on indicating a problem with it and if example was ok and a switch wich can bypass the lamp and well a properly case for it , sticking with wood and hot glue is not the right choise don't understand wrong that thing is more danger as it is then if it was without a case and as well use heatsrink tube not those little wire cap does can get luse and may or not may come in contact with the metal frame , but hey good job

[@therider3939]

I did mine with 2 microwave transformers i used the 2 primaries

[@TannerTech]

Nice! How did you wire that up?

[@therider3939]

@@TannerTech i opened the transformers and removed the primaries and put both in one transformer soo it goes 220 v to 220v

[@TannerTech]

That's a good idea!

[@GK-lf1ll]

Wow that's an outlet for Power and inlet for mouse 🐁. Anyway good and useful info that I am searching for.

[@phonotical]

Metal switch on a metal case? You really need to ground the case to prevent a bad shock

[@Ziplock9000]

You missed the meaning of "isolation" on an isolation transformer.

[@dongray3050]

Don Gray Thanks for the presentation. Very well done. Informative.

[@dizzolve]

Nice job with the X-former - and the video. You might have 'proven' isolation with ohm meter - just for good measure. Well done though.

[@bikemannc]

Thank You man; excellent DIY video. I'm now subscribed; knowing I have a Go To site in understanding how my equipment works with a hands on demo.

[@kelleepackham4740]

Nice work!

[@john497]

Very good.

[@mitch3064]

Nice job, thanks.

[@travisthesutherland]

Best show on KZbin.

[@ratshitpartners5757]

how many times have you shocked yourself - have u met a ghost yet?

[@Shadow_of_STLKR]

I have this switch, its rated to 125VAC xD Great high quality and safe first ;P

[@englishrupe01]

Great job!

[@DavidMadeira29]

"I've thought it was how to make a double solder..." 🖖

[@truescotsman4103]

i get shocked all the time. if you work with electricity you get used to it. the way i do it anyway i work on live 240v and 120v circuits. i wouldn't do it with a tube amp. (but i do)

[@ProckerDark]

get you an isolation transformer or a a GFCI breaker

[@JustLovett0]

Great work Tanner, almost comparable to the channel focused similar to yours, "GreatScott!"

[@APPETYTEMUSICGROUP]

Your intro "tanner tanner tanner tech" was the weakest shit I have ever heard😅😅😅

[@WTFIsThisGuyDoing233]

Brah

[@danfuerthgillis4483]

LMFAO unplugs from the wall and there is NO COVER on the outlet LMFAO!!! This is a serious breach of Electrical Code Violations, but damn funny.

[@TannerTech]

+Danfuerth Gillis Yeah, the cover broke a while ago and I am too lazy to put it back on. I don't really care either, it's not like any inspector is going to come by and fine me for that violation! Lol

[@danfuerthgillis4483]

I know all this Over inspection shit is the reason why idiots think there is a monster on the wall socket LOL hence the reason some people today in 2017 after 100 years of almost the same outlets can not swap out an outlet!!!. Do this to some one, add a bowl of tap water and cut a power cord and only leave the outlet part. expose the wires and add those wire sections into the water, then plug the other end into an outlet. Ask your friend to stick his hand in the water.... watch his reaction as he is made a complete fool when you place your hands in the water and nothing happens. People sadly are completely brainwashed by the "EJEWCATION" system and the Education system is only there to INDOCTRINATE people into the System so they do not question basic fundamental questions as what is Gravity? You will right away have get a programmed answer that has never been allowed to be challenged until recently when even University Professors are starting to doubt what they have been taught. Look at NASA and their Fake Space ISS BS, We know they are using Augmented VR CGI sets and Ioptik contact lenses as was 100% verified and NASA can not deny this on the Boise State University Live fee when an Astronaut in the back is clearly and VISIBLY seen with a harness around his waist when the VR channel failed to remove it. In the Front the 2 AstroActors are interacting with CGI objects using the Ioptik contact lenses ( so the can see the VR channel) . That Boise University Video is self explanitory NASA has been caught. Ioptik VR tech has been around since 2012, but NASA has had access to it for much longer. Look up that Video here it is an eye opener, even long time NASA fanboys have no answer.

[@photonic_induction2633]

Yeah but if something happens like a fire insurance will probably not pay

[@georgedennison3338]

You may be too lazy now, but the first time tou distractedly reach out to plug or un-plug something, and you miss and touch the side of the recep, you WILL instantly become motivated. Well, when your arm recovers, anyway...

[@nc8379]

Now let me see. Just on the surface even the power receptable is loose with no cover but yet you talk about safety. There is no mention of the specifications needed for the transformer. Not only are you a danger to yourself but a danger to everybody else. Go back and become knowledgable with the basics of electricity before you post DIY vids, please if not for your followers at least do it for yourself - even low volatge AC can kill.

[@TannerTech]

+N C Now let ME see. I have been using this isolation transformer ever since I posted this video. Guess what: not a single fire or electrical shock! I do talk about the specs of the transformer. It has the same ratio of turns on the primary to the secondary coil. The primary also has the right inductance to handle 110 vac. I agree, this would be a danger if not used right. You should probably use your brain before commenting.

[@nc8379]

Well as Forest Gump's mama always said "stupid is as stupid does".

[@stevewahl5041]

(I'm not the original person you were responding to.) When everything is working as it was when you put it together, this will be fine. However, know that the majority of safety requirements are there to protect you (us) from *faults*, where it somehow no longer matches the original design. Grounding of a metal case, for instance, has no value for a device working as originally designed. Grounding is designed to protect against insulation breakdown somewhere, so that a live conductor comes in contact with the metal case. Without the ground wire, nothing happens -- until a grounded human touches it, then they get a shock through their body, possibly a lethal shock. With the ground, the fault makes a short that carries high current and trips the breaker or burns out the fuse on the circuit, stoping operation but rendering a potentially dangerous situation harmless. In my opinion, someone with more experience in safe design might: use all metal (grounded), instead of some wood (for heat / fire reasons). Heat shrink around the switch so the contacts are not exposed to fingers, or make the enclosure complete so fingers, tools, etc. cannot come in contact with high voltages. Know the specifications of the transformer and put in a fuse, so drawing too much by mistake will not cause a fire. That's all I can think of at the moment. I think someday you'll look back on this like I look back on the bell wire and masking tape I used to carry 110 VAC when I was younger...

[@manuelr7121]

cool