DIY LED Christmas Light Show Props (PEX Wreath, Mega Star, Tune To Sign, Flood Lights)

[@VitoHGrind]

I have literally built my show this year around your vides lol! I'm sitting here at work thinking, "Man, I really wish there was a way for me to make a floodlight for my display using hardware I can find on Amazon." The Hook Up to the rescue! Thanks for all the great advice and for making everything so clear and concise. Keep it up!

[@TheOuterWaves]

Someone probably already said this, but throw a nice red bow over the bolts. Goes with the wreath and hides bolts nicely.

[@michaeljones270]

or a 3d printed one with more LEDs?

[@Racontact]

I'm looking for a way to power and hang the wreath without getting out the ladder. I use a pole with hook to hang the wreath but running/routing the wire is where I still need to get the ladder

[@erolfe]

Made my start into LED Light Show props with the Megastar and the middle that you designed. They came out great! A little more wiring to do, and it will be ready to go on my house right before Christmas. Thanks for the wonderful videos!

[@CanispaterChristmas]

There's a wreath model in xLights. Lets you choose the size of each (layer sizes "42,52,61,71"). I did something similar, but put the wiring facing the back. It's a nice look, but changing out the strip is a PITA and I'm going to address that in my next vid. I think same with the star (but I don't have one yet). Nice vid!

[@josezepeda7396]

You really made it easy for me to take the plunge into permanently installed LEDs! I started my research in July and 3 months later it's complete with 2 Christmas shows and 1 Halloween show all on Xlights and a Hinkspix Pro!

[@TheHookUp]

Awesome, glad to hear it Jose!

[@DereQues]

Rob, great video. I've appreciated all the instructional stuff you've done. I just learned a nice way to build the wreath and star in XLights. Use the layers settings to create uniform Stars and Circles that will be one item in the models. These work great. Again, thanks!

[@TheHookUp]

Yep, that was a great addition a few years ago!

[@diyeverythingbigbeardesign5717]

I loved the wreath idea and mimicked it.... but also improved. At a big box store I couldn't find thin wall PVC for the straight sections so I found that 1" PEX worked well - just had to bore the holes slightly. I also added a separate hole for wiring to run in/out rather than sharing a hole with the bolt that holds each ring. I also drilled this onto the backside so all wiring is on the back, not needing the tape job you showed. 2" screws were too short for me so 3" worked well, and can always cut excess off. I also made a video not too long - there's a MUCH easier way to remove the IP65 seal from the LEDs... I kept having issues when I installed my under cabinet lighting with cutting it away and damaging the board. In short - use a utility knife with the blade heated up to cut down then across (no pressure needed) - the heated blade melts through and cuts the seal right off. Takes seconds. I've found I go back over it with a knife but that's more of a 'scratching' off excess left behind. Thanks for the build idea! Wife and kids love it!

[@Firespyer]

Love the sturdy work shoes

[@evertythingtechrelated9715]

Great video...I'm gathering all the supplies for a show next year.

[@jerryhalasz]

Rob is going to need more Patreon supporters to cover that light bill this year.

[@davidbeiler6364]

i think he lives in Florida? electricity is cheap there

[@Livinfast85]

Cable concealing channels would probably be a good option to hide the wires on the front of the wreath. Another great video!! cant wait to start some projects!

[@Jacobhopkins117]

This channel is criminally under-subscribed! Great work as always!

[@ArtemisKitty]

Wow, thanks for the awesome tutorial. Hopefully this encourages a lot of people to join the Arduino/DIY community! On the subject of hiding the wires (and being weatherproof), maybe Sugru? It's cheap enough, and easily molded over wires to hide them. I've used it in my home to hide wiring in room corners, and it works great.

[@AussieInSeattle]

you need to add this to your holiday lights playlist

[@TheHookUp]

Done! Thanks.

[@AussieInSeattle]

@@TheHookUp also looks like the floods are no longer flashable. I just purchased 8 of the 10w ws2811 floods similar to the ones that holidaycoro sell (i used an in stock vendor). maybe add those to your list for a 2021 holiday lights video if you are planning one.

[@robertpoynton9923]

For a weather proof cover without 3d printing try silicone and cornstarch mixed into a putty like consistatancy and wrap it around the joint and let it set. I'm not sure if it will work but I plan on trying it for one of my soul sensors when I get my part. Look up proto putty or silicone putty.

[@GeorgeLeite]

Great tutorial. Only problem is if I work sitting on the floor I'd still be stuck there till Easter. 😁

[@Damachaman]

Thanks for the video. I was just contemplating on how to do a tune to sign. Used your link! I bought the printer too. Thanks for providing recommendation. I can't tell you how many times I am working on something and thought "If I could only make something exactly this size, this would be so much easier!". I have four 7' trees that need stars, I think I'm going to use the design you linked and remove the outer layer.

[@ksks6802]

That's is really overkill. I'm just gonna use a picture frame. Cut out the letters and numbers for the fm station. Glue it the plexy and shove a cheap color changing bulb that fits a normal light

[@snakebarber]

To hide the wires on the wreath, I made the "interior" holes extra large and just ran the wiring in and out of the holes as needed. No external wiring except for 1 led cable coming out the bottom

[@TheHookUp]

Nice.

[@ericapelz260]

The NodeMCU with the ESPielStick firmware works very well with Xlights or Vixen., and it also supports MQTT. I highly recommend Canispater Christmas for lighting ideas.

[@computergeek1507]

For the star and circle models you can change the layer settings and not need the multiple models. You could also use a custom model for the tune to sign.

[@jspiker77]

Just as an FYI in xLights for both the wreath and star you didn't need to create separate models, all you need to do is create 1 model and set the lay sizes it does the rest of the work for you.

[@emf9]

Where did you get those candy canes? Looking for some good controllable candy canes for next year?

[@sidneyking11]

Add a couple more lights the airplanes might mistake your house as the aitport.,, ha ha ha Great job on the video instruction.

[@cryangallegos]

Man, I saw your original RGB flood hack and was considering something similar, but today I was again looking into RGBW flood lighting that I could install vertically in a downlight position and was pointed back to your channel. This is pretty much exactly what I am looking for now, and while I would prefer a wired connection, wifi certainly has its advantages. This year is my first year doing pixels and the roofline and floods will be permanent installs, and requiring a boom to install safely, so it only makes sense to do it all at once 🙃

[@TheHookUp]

Nice, I’ve always wanted to rent a boom. Stay safe!

[@cryangallegos]

@@TheHookUp Yup, a solid 20-25ft to the upper soffit. I hear most local rental places will rent on a Friday afternoon and let you keep til Monday morning while only charging for 1 day. Costs less than a decent ladder of suitable length and with much more peace of mind- until a pixel goes out at least haha

[@jimturnbull2343]

Have you thought of a Count Down to Xmas prop? I use to see them but I can’t find them now. Thanks for all the videos

[@Uncle_Buzz]

QUESTION(s) : How are you transmitting the music? How many watts do you transmit? How do you not get busted by the FCC for transmitting on FM commercial band? Thanks, Cheers & Happy New Year! - C

[@TheHookUp]

The FCC allows for local transmissions under 200 feet. I'm broadcasting at .2 watts. You can check for free radio bands in your area using radio-locator.com/cgi-bin/vacant

[@morrisdirector]

I purchased LOHAS bulbs last week and they will not flash with Tuya Convert. Reading through the Tuya Convert issues on the github page it seems like bulbs sold within the last 6 months or so (Spring/Summer 2020) are patched by Tuya and will no longer flash. Tuya Convert has yet to find a workaround for it. Any ideas?

[@2176jsweet]

Great video! do you know of any good videos or sites for describing how to make the windows frames? Or at least a pic of yours when off? Thanks

[@thebruhhh]

I might be missing it, but how did you do your windows and garage door?? Thanks!

[@nielslangkilde9255]

Thats cool - Thanks for a great walkthrough - Very inspiring...

[@nathanpearson4600]

Love your videos Rob!!!

[@ein57ein]

Another great video. I hung the first 7.5M of my LEDs this morning, going to "wire" my control box tonight. Keep up the great work. Also, what soldering iron is that? I felt chained to the outlet yesterday while maneuvering my channels with the LEDs.

[@JesusPerez-lc7of]

Ohhhhhh that looks pretty easy....lol

[@DigitalArchmage]

Question - At 9:06 You talk about downlights (soffit lights I guess?). Let's say I wanted some downlights in my soffit that I could control via home assistant (bonus points if they work like normal when I sell the house and I don't have to replace them all if I don't want to). Should I re-flash downlights like you've done here? (everything changes so fast, I feel like I have to ask in 2022 ). What should I try? (I'm probably going to do permanent lights strip/track - I feel like it should be compatible with all of that too....). (edit - and the downlights amazon link 404s, the LOHAS lights link is "unavailable" (EOL?))

[@shaneroering]

I want to put addressable LEDs around my dock. I am considering using WS2812 96LED/m 12v in PEX piping. Any thoughts? I am concerned about overheating, maintaining directionality, and durability. I have been unable to find any IP68 strips that I like.

[@mkos5565]

Great video as always! Any way you could put up how to define the mega star in xlights?

[@ira4496]

You should do a video on a DIY Ambilight

[@chrisw1462]

@8:13 "A trick.. was to stip (?) some of the holes..." What does this mean, please?

[@TheHookUp]

Skip holes, I know it was quick, but check out the animation next to my head while I was talking about it

[@chrisw1462]

@@TheHookUp Ah. okay.. it _was_ fast, and I didn't see it at first. Now that I viewed it slowed down a bit, I see what you meant. The pixel spacing on the wire wouldn't let you get back to the holes you needed, and skipping some going one way, then filling them in on the way back solved that.

[@TheHookUp]

Yep

[@battistuzzijohn]

Hi Im John from Italy.... I'm a big fan. I am looking for a woreless battery powered external pir motion sensor that can trigger my external flood lights as a traditional sensor but I would like to create some routines to control my flood lights through a sonoff basic. Any idea's? The basic idea is for security purposes or to light up the surroundings at my arrival at night through a voice command or IFTT geofencing. Thanks and continue making great content

[@TyPaff]

Hi Rob, I was wondering what your long-term review is on the Pex wreath. I know HDPE can break down in the sun, but in this application it may still last years in the indirect sun. Wondering if you have seen any cracking/crazing/yellowing on it, especially with the significant bends on the wreath. It's also a good torture test for Pex in this application!

[@TheHookUp]

Still working great. One of my wreaths is now 4 years old and the other 2 were made for this video. All are still alive and well (I do take them down and put them in storage from January to October though.

[@TyPaff]

@@TheHookUp Thanks for the update, that is encouraging to know. I really like the smoothness of LED strips in Pex and considering hanging that under the eves instead of aluminum track, but that would be hung year round. Thinking I may do a smaller trial on my outbuilding first before I do a full commitment. What do you think of that approach over track?

[@TheHookUp]

@@TyPaff I have seasonal lights on my driveway that are in "clear" pex (it's very opaque). I do store them outside on the side of my house and haven't noticed any yellowing. You can see them in action here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIjadH2bgr97jMk

[@paulfecht]

Great project. I noticed you had a heat gun / hand held torch... would you be willing to share the model?... thanks.

[@TheHookUp]

It's actually the torch I use for searing steak after cooking sous vide, lol: amzn.to/3657yrL

[@Matthew-gl2kf]

That's it, I'm subscribed. Where do you live and how can I hire you to do my house?! I put up lights I was very proud of until I saw this. Screw you - I freakin love it. I'm a Computer Engineer, I could totally do this - and now that I see it, I feel like I have to. 2020 it's gonna get real... thanks man

[@TheHookUp]

I wish I had the free time to set up lights for money. Between KZbin, my real job and tinkering I’ve basically stopped sleeping already.

[@eklavyaaa]

@@TheHookUp take rest sir. That wonderful brain of yours need some care

[@btcjas7021]

Awesome work like always. I wish home assistant was as easy as you make it sound. I’m so confused

[@nathanchaney86]

Went through all of the steps to flash a set of Novostella Floods I purchased. No Dice. It Appears they Tuya Firmware has updated to prevent this exploit, which it pretty unfortunate. These lights are awesome, and I wish they would still be open to custom firmware. Serial flashing isn't really an option because the casing is sealed.

[@mkos5565]

So, downloaded, sliced and printed the megatree star, planning to print the 5 sections on an ender 3. Problem that I have run into is that the holes for the inner 2 rings are coming out but the outer ring’s holes are absent. In cura I rotated the file so that it fits on the buildplate. The floor of the outer ring shows up red. Tried importing into meshmixer and tinkercad to see if it would repair the model but no luck. Am I the only one having this issue? If anyone else has and has found a workaround, please post. At this point going to see how drilling the holes by hand works. I have only printed the first 2 sections of the star (currently printing the center - which is going beautifully btw) so if there’s a way to fix the star section stl I’d prefer to reslice and print ones with holes for that ~18 hours😁

[@TheHookUp]

In cura check the box that says “union overlapping volumes”

[@mkos5565]

Tried that - didn’t fix the problem

[@hienngo6730]

@@mkos5565 I had the same problem but checking that option worked for me. I tried other approaches as well, none of them worked (using Meshmixer or Blender). The holes are very precise, so drilling would be difficult to match. Thanks much for the pointer to the model and your center star. I'll be setting up my first prop with this star (don't have enough lights to make a mega tree yet, just getting my feet wet with some strings and strips.)

[@matthewnoecker5062]

actually I got the holes to show in the gcode by un checking that option ( “union overlapping volumes”) haven't tried printing yet

[@kthfriend]

ok.. ok.. I now have the Novostella flood lights.. now to re-flash.. Do u have a simple flow chart for this? Your vid glosses over the process somewhat.. Thanks for the great info... next year it'll be the mega tree.. :)

[@TheHookUp]

Tuya convert first: www.thesmarthomehookup.com/tuya-convert-walk-through-february-2019/ (Tuya convert ends with tasmota flashed onto the device) Update the ino file in arduino with your wifi ssid/pw then generate a .bin file as shown in the video. Go to your devices IP address (the tasmota webUI will come up) and click firmware upgrade and select the .bin file you made.

[@RockGuitaristJay]

There is an easier way to set up the Mega Star in xLights. Create one star in your layout, and then type "30,40,50" (without the quotes) in the Layer Sizes.

[@TheHookUp]

Thanks! I recently discovered my issue with the wreath and layers. For some reason there is no option for a wreath with multiple layers, but if you use the circle tool you can specify layers... which makes me wonder what the difference is between a wreath and a circle.

[@ToddL]

Awesome video. Love your stuff, it's very helpful. One request... do you have (or could you create) a video that shows what your always-installed lights look like during the day, when they are turned off, close up, and some of the "problem areas"? I know you have advocated using an aluminum (I think) channel with a translucent cover. But in one of your videos where you were testing multiple outdoor cameras at one time, I thought I could see what looked like PVC tubing with holes drilled in them surrounding one of your windows. I can only assume that might have been an earlier iteration of lights for you. I'm very interested in planning out my install, first... and I'd like to get a good idea of what the corners are going to look like, where wires might be visible, etc... and, of course, before I do anything, I need to clear it all with the HOA (hate that). I'm pretty sure they have something in the covenant that prohibits me from leaving lights up year-round... so, I need to be able sell the "you won't be able to see them when they are off" aspect. Thanks again for all the super helpful videos!

[@reubenjmills]

this is a two year old comment (soz), he explained in another video that the windows and doors have a temporary pvc pipe structured outline but the edges and ridges of the roof are permanently installed

[@Maclark014]

@thehookup can you do a video that details how to add the novostella light to xlights?

[@nathanchaney86]

The tuya-convert exploit has been patched for the Novostella's I purchased a few months ago. Sadly no work around I can find.

[@johnbarsby7446]

Ive been testing several RGBW LED runs using Wemo pros Flashed with WLED. Im finding slight issues with sync ive not tried controlling them with xlights yet tho. Just wondered what controller boards youre using and if youve had any sync issues ?

[@potato2941]

how do they hook up those dj spotlights to the light show app? I found one I can afford but not sure how to hook it up, plus water proof it. "Intimidator 360"

[@Tjup]

cant u make a file where u have all effect, to upload on a Arduino, im struggling to find some nice effects, but urs are awsome, can u share please..

[@TheHookUp]

Are you looking to have them synced to music, or just the effects?

[@Tjup]

@@TheHookUp Just effects :) for a 300 led strip

[@Spindoctor96]

What app do you use ? I'm trying to get halloween colors and Christmas and 4th of july

[@ianxtreem]

Hey Rob, great video. How bright is the color on Lohas bulbs? I bought sonoff b1's and its a joke. i want to make sure I don't waste more money. Thanks, Ian

[@TheHookUp]

About 100x better than the B1. I replaced my B1s with Lohas and it's a HUGE difference.

[@ronm6585]

Thanks Rob

[@mourisyounan9998]

Thank you for the great vedio you make all the time . My tow questions are : how did you mount the light Channel on you house ? Is it facing the street or facing down ? When you said WLED controller, do you mean WLED they ha e there own brand controller that will work with XLight or you meant just there software that work with another controller.? And if you know that ,what well be the name of those controller Thank you .

[@TheHookUp]

Mine is facing out towards the street, but I've seen them facing down and it also looks nice. WLED is just software that works with a controller like a NodeMCU ESP8266. The DigiUno is a great board to start with if you want a pre-built solution.

[@dannlima4552]

@TheHookUp Is it possible to make the Fire Effect on the Pex Wreath with WLED?

[@TheHookUp]

Absolutely. That's how I do mine these days. Fire 2012, make each ring a segment and use the mirror effect option.

[@thomasheath6029]

Do you have to orient the led strips in any particular configuration? if so, how do you keep them facing front?

[@TheHookUp]

You mean inside the pex tubing? I don't think it matters, the tubing is opaque enough to diffuse the LEDs regardless of orientation.

[@thomasheath6029]

@@TheHookUp Thank you!

[@niklasforsgren4570]

Do you use the LED strip (8212) for the Mega star, or do you use the LED pixels (8211)? Could you share a picture of the wiring?

[@TheHookUp]

I used Pixels, WS2811

[@tobbenb]

Did you do a Tuya covert on the Novostella RGB-CCT Flood Lights? Any issues? Thanx for the quality content

[@TheHookUp]

I used Tuya convert, they worked perfectly

[@tobbenb]

​@@TheHookUp Yes it did :) Are you recommending running github.com/thehookup/E131-MQTT-RGBW-Lights or Tasmota to MQTT control the lights?

[@aalexisa14]

Anyone have any cool sequences for Rob's PEX Wreath they'd be willing to share with an xlights beginner?

[@coolguymatt]

How do you mount the mega star? The lights get in the way of the pole?

[@TheHookUp]

I have mine zip tied to some 1in pvc that then slips over my mega tree pole.

[@AdhamOhm]

2:16 Or use a table vice to hold the PVC pieces in place. :)

[@TheHookUp]

That would have involved moving the camera, ain't nobody got time for that :)

[@AdhamOhm]

@@TheHookUp Ah, that's understandable.

[@JamesHiscott]

Hi Rob, Thanks for this video, i know its quite old now. But once i have complied BIN, i try to load it via Tasmota (8.3.1) but it just says Upload Failed : Not compatible. Any way to find out why it thinks its not compatible? I am using the LohasWithCW file and set the board options as per your screenshot.

[@JamesHiscott]

Fixed this, needed to go back to 7.2 version of Tasmota then it loaded fine.... not sure why

[@monkeytailz6890]

So what exactly do you need to get started with shows?

[@TheHookUp]

this is a good place to start: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3qVgaadrrCNhsk

[@isaiahashcraft5574]

I wonder if there’s a way to incorporate intelligent dmx fixtures...🤔 the only thing that’ll completely sell me on this DIY project.

[@TheHookUp]

Xlights can output pure DMX, so you can do whatever you want with it, sky’s the limit.

[@isaiahashcraft5574]

SOLD! 😂

[@mfredricknew]

so I hAVE subscribed cuz it looks like you know what your doing. happy day. have been searching for forums to help with my ideas. here is the big one. I have about 60 incandescent candy canes that I want to rip out the strings and refurb with programable LED that will have the radius of light of an incandescent. . Simple. all are bright white. no rgb programable with arduino. WHAT led would you recommend, and my guess is 12v. long strings. ? approx 340 led per string string approx 75 feet. please help....

[@t3chrs]

Love the video. Did you use PLA for printing your star? or maybe PETG since it will be in the sun alot?

[@TheHookUp]

Petg

[@brian.hanifin]

ASA is made to hold up to weather and sun. I had to use a cardboard box as a make shift enclosure. But the mounting adapter I made for my motor home’s GPS turned out great!

[@BlakeRobertson]

Do you have a firmware for a E131 controller to drive RGB Light Strip like the WS2812B that's compatible with XLights?

[@TheHookUp]

WLED or ESPixelStick

[@chetwilberg4160]

I'm trying to compile and upload the code to the LOHAS LED bulbs that you were talking about here. I was able to get the .bin compiled, but when I upload it to the LOHAS bulb, I get an error that Upload Failed, not compatible. I am using version 1.8.13 of Arduino and the settings under tools are slightly different than pictured above. Am I missing something? Thanks and great videos!

[@TheHookUp]

I'm not sure of your level of expertise, have you installed the ESP8266 in boards manager and selected Generic ESP8266 for your board?

[@chetwilberg4160]

@@TheHookUp Experienced IT/home automation guy with programming experience, new to the custom firmware world. Yes, I did get that selected properly.

[@TheHookUp]

Can you post the exact error?

[@chetwilberg4160]

@@TheHookUp I didn't see an easy way to post a picture on here, but here's everything on the screen once it fails: Line 1: "Generic Module", Line 2: "GarBulb1", Line 3: "Upload Failed" - Failed is in Red, Line 4: "Not compatible", Line 5: "Main Menu" button, Line 6: "Tasmota 8.1.0.2 by Theo Arends" That is everything on the screen.

[@chetwilberg4160]

@@TheHookUp It looks like I was using the wrong version of the ESP8266 Board definition. I went back to 2.4.2 and now the options under tools line up with your video. I'll try flashing it again tonight and hopefully that will work. Thanks!

[@cacheeventservices4241]

Do you have any experience with WLED and Xlights. My roof line Run is 593 nodes and in xlights it has a horrible lag.

[@TheHookUp]

I don't. When I used ESP8266s for my show I used the ESPixelStick firmware.

[@cacheeventservices4241]

The Hook Up for doing a roof line over 100 ft what kind of wire do you regiment for injection? I used 18g speaker wire and didn’t even make it 50 feet

[@michelleregis6181]

i can mabe buy a foot of led lights

[@TheBstork1]

Working on printing the star. What is the best order to put the leds in

[@TheHookUp]

All the way around the outside, then the middle, then the inside

[@TheBstork1]

The Hook Up as one continuous strand or 3 separate?

[@TheHookUp]

I did continuous and then just connected all the built in power injection wires for the strands together.

[@TheBstork1]

Thanks for the help, have the center to print and then glue

[@nola2635]

I am trying to compile the .bin file and I keep getting an error - ESPAsyncE131.h - No such file or directory exists. Is there an update to your INO code or a way around this error?

[@danielatwood4588]

You will need to download the ESPAsyncE131.h library on Arduino. I also had to find the ESPAsyncUDP.h file and add it to the library.

[@TheHookUp]

You'll need to install that library: github.com/forkineye/ESPAsyncE131

[@nola2635]

Thanks yall! I had to add three additional libraries to the IDE- The two mentioned above as well as the pupsbuclient library. After that, I got it to compile. Thanks again!

[@nola2635]

Is there a specific Tasmota FW that needs to be flashed on the bulb before your FW will work? I keep getting an error that this FW is not compatible.

[@danielatwood4588]

@@nola2635 Go to the Tasmota Console and type "SetOption78 On" and press Enter. Then try to flash the bulb with the .bin file.

[@jarrenlumpkin5178]

nice.

[@NatesRandomVideo]

You left out “How to operate an illegal broadcast transmitter.” LOL

[@TheHookUp]

Depends on the laws where you live. In the US it is not illegal to operate a low power transmitter:: transition.fcc.gov/bureaus/oet/info/documents/bulletins/oet63/oet63rev.pdf

[@dannlima4552]

What LEDs did you use for the star?

[@TheHookUp]

5V WS2811 Pixels: amzn.to/33qnSqR

[@abboberg987]

Love your video's. Thanks for any update... I also hope that all people in the world will use (international) metrics in the future. Inches means nothing to me.

[@TheHookUp]

Haha, the written instructions will have metric units included. I’m not sure what the pipe sizes are in other parts of the world though.

[@emungai]

Yesssss!!!!!! Correct pronunciation. I-P-6-5

[@TheHookUp]

Just for you buddy :P I also pronounced silicone correctly I think :)

[@TheHookUp]

Edit: Nope, just noticed I actually said silicone twice, got it right only once... lmao

[@emungai]

@@TheHookUp Silicone doesn't bother me. I didn't even notice. Thanks for high quality content.

[@tomtube8505]

Did you use WS2811 5V or 12V for the Mega Star?

[@TheHookUp]

5v

[@tomtube8505]

@@TheHookUp Thanks for the quick reply! So no reason to go higher (to avoid voltage drop problems for 120 LED's)?

[@TheHookUp]

I haven’t had any issues with it, powered at the beginning and the end of the run.

[@JeffRendek]

Great video man! Love seeing your new content! Quick question before I dive to deep... can you integrate the Node MCU from your previous videos into xLights or is a new controller required? Thanks and keep up the good work!

[@jarrenlumpkin5178]

cool

[@djizzy12]

How did you sequence in the light bulbs on the garage?

[@TheHookUp]

It’s the last part of this video.

[@djizzy12]

@@TheHookUp I see it but when I load your bin I can’t access the light. I can ping it however. Any ideas?

[@danielatwood4588]

@@djizzy12​ @The Hook Up I'm in the same boat. I flashed Tasmota and then updated the firmware with the .bin file. It said it was uploaded successfully then it restarted. Now I cannot do anything with the bulb. It will not even turn on. However, I can ping it. Is there a way to reconnect to it to try upgrading the firmware again?

[@djizzy12]

@@danielatwood4588 hey i just bricked 8 bulbs. I ordered 4 more and should arrive tomorrow. I think I may know what I need to do. I got a reply from Rick on what to do. How can I get in contact?

[@danielatwood4588]

@@djizzy12 yeah I was afraid I was going to do that to my other 3 bulbs so I stopped. You can contact me at [e-mail]

[@tomar5e115]

Ah man the imperial system seems so backwards. US have to get on the metric system

[@TheHookUp]

When I started editing the video I was including metric as well, then I got to the point of 3/4” PEX and 3/4” thin wall (200psi) PVC and had no idea what the metric equivalents would be, so I decided on freedom unites all the way :)

[@Battleborn357]

They said decades ago we would go to the metric system. But us Americans are too stubborn. ;)

[@nemmeh]

Those poor drillbits

[@TheHookUp]

I was more worried about my garage floor :)

[@ChrisEdwardsLV]

For those with a 3d printer, I found some wreath stabilizer clips on thingiverse here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2034535

[@TheHookUp]

The spacing between the pipes should be 2” to work with the dimensions I listed.

[@ChrisEdwardsLV]

@@TheHookUp gotcha. Thanks for the info. Love you videos

[@lukecurrano127]

Do not use a hot gun on a rug it will burn it don't be stupid like me😁

[@doggyide]

Hi I remember that you showed some LED ghost in your porch during Halloween season, correct?