DIY Linear Rail Router Sled

This is the best router sled that you can make for the money. I honestly believe that it is just as good as the "Slab Flattening Mill" but at a fraction of the cost. All parts you see in this video can be easily found on Amazon. I think that this DIY router jig is the best thing you can build for flattening wood slabs.
Updated Version 1.5 Video: • DIY Linear Rail Router...
Here are the links to the parts that I'm using: In stock as of 8/12/21
-- Amazon Affiliate Links--
Pair of 1200mm Rails: amzn.to/3ioJdIJ
Pair of 2000mm Rails: amzn.to/3XNGUzk
12x12 1/2" Acrylic: amzn.to/3mAaNRM
Assorted M4 Screws: amzn.to/3lklCYV
The Bit That I Use:
UPDATE: Some people are saying that their tapped holes only accept M5 Screws. Here is a link to some of them if you think you might need them: amzn.to/2YnZnbs
My Router: amzn.to/3ByckxS
Router Bit I Use: amzn.to/2WP7tcE
Router Bit Extension: amzn.to/3BsJAqE
Thanks for watching! Comment below if you find new ways to use this system!

[@willd0g]

When he said “Buttery Smooth” And proceeded to demonstrate just exactly how smooth it was ; My jaw literally dropped. VERY NICE. Definitely going to try this

[@mattbromage5264]

Just what I was looking for to be able to "scan" large works of art with a digital camera. Thanks!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Whoa thats awesome! I'm sure there are tons of uses for these things, thanks for commenting!

[@MrMacgyver123]

this is such a great video, I love the not wasting time telling people stuff they know or could look up attitude.

[@arcarioandsons]

I had pretty much landed on this setup and went fishing on KZbin to find exactly this, proof of concept. This looks awesome and I'm going to build one exactly the same but a little larger.

[@tannertasman]

just be careful as the larger you go the more bowing you'll get in the 2 unsupported lengths

[@sickwilly1171]

Obviously well built. I made one integrated into my work table, adjustable height. With a so-called janky plywood sled that works great. Easy, inexpensive, and sets up quickly.

[@seanphillips7766]

I just built one and it’s great. Hard to beat the price of the components for how well they function. I’ve got a small shop and I love that it packs down really easily when I’m not using it too. Thanks for posting the video!

[@marcellemay7721]

This is the best bang for the buck, cheapest, rigid router sled design I've seen. I was thinking about doing something similar. Started doing a little youtube research and this video came up. I'll probably weld up an aluminum router base frame with an acryilic bottom for see through. I have all the welding equipment. I might put some struts across the cross slides on the ends to keep them parallel, perhaps some all-thread so it can be adjusted. Maybe It's not needed, but in my mind it would keep it from potentially binding up. I wasn't sure about using the linear bearings because of sawdust getting in there, but you're right. These components are cheap these days. This stuff used to be very pricy, and only available at industrial supply houses, back around 2012 when I built a CNC plasma cutting table. But now, it's a no brainer. Awesome video.

[@michael.schuler]

Thanks for post and product links, very useful. One element warranting care when flattening larger slabs (e.g., for table tops) is that the main frame and support rails be perfectly flat, in particular with regard to twist. I use a much less sophisticated setup with great results (no bearings whatsoever), and when I set up my long base rails (heavy straight aluminum channels), I use my digital level as one would use winding sticks to confirm that both ends of the rails are in the same plane. In your setup I presume your bench is providing an accurate planar base for your longitudinal rails, but as you can see, even your superior components could produce twisted surfaces if the bench top were itself twisted.

[@johnwinn5225]

Learned this the expensive way

[@johnwinn5225]

Purchased the rails and fastened the long ones to three 4"x3/4"x96" laminated mdf strips each . The shorter cross bridge has 1/4"x2"x12" aluminum flat bar connecting the rails .I have one set of bearings fastened at the end of short rails(operator side) other set fastens to a width needed for project width . Router trolley bearings are joined by the same size aluminun flat bar as described before . Router trolley is U shaped with wimgs at the top to sit on bearing plates . The sled is assembled on my 4'x8' work table and when not in use is disassembled and stored on shelves made especially for them . Hope all can decipher my ramblings

[@slope1957]

The blue tape for the boundary is a great idea!

[@somebodypeculiar]

Intriguing. The whole linear rails with bearing blocks is new to me. Cool stuff, no question there. As I watched what my mind kept coming back to was the table. I had better be really, really flat. With no twisting. That is doable, but it isn't going to just happen, it has to be designed in and executed well when building the table.

[@diversify210]

Amazing I was just on McMaster Carr last night ordering rails and sleeve bearings to do this exact same thing. Then I get on KZbin this morning and this video pops up. Here I was thinking I was going to be the first to do this. I guess not. Im going to used PTFE sleeved bearings though instead of linear ball bearings, just because the sleeved bearings will handle the saw dust better over time. Other than that though, Im doing the same thing. Bravo bro. Now I know what I was thinking is actually going to freaking work.

[@Pipsqwak]

I can't wait to build this. I can't afford a big planer/jointer, and I don't have the space for them, either. I do have a really great, powerful router, so this will totally work. Thanks so much!

[@WarriorKidd06]

I've seen a lot of router sleds. This is by far the best designed and functional one I've come across. Definitely want to build something like this myself

[@garyf72]

I've seen it unexplained and a dozen videos. Thank you thank you thank you

[@philiphoweartistwriter272]

YEAH!! Thanks so much for posting this! Exactly what I was thinking of building but you beat me to it. I need a specific router sled for larger molding bits to run vertically along the edge of 2-3" wood strips to make clean frame molding before cutting it. This looks stable enough to run a fine line down the wood without wavering. I just need to figure out how to set the wood in place between the two shafts, using the rails as a straight router carrier. (just need 2 rails, not 4) Best price is from Vevor direct, 2200mm, 84" for $149. They must be made by the same company as the comments are the same and they look identical. I will find out soon enough, already ordered them today. Free shipping, too. Amazon was $50 higher. Thanks again for taking the time for the video. Great explanation and very direct. No BS.

[@pepper7144]

I have found SBR 20 rails that are designed to fit together for extending; they actually insert like pipes connect. I even found some that had the equivalent of whisker biscuits built in the bearing blocks. Like you I did not think they were needed, nothing a blast of air and carb cleaner wont fix, followed by lube.

[@lefty1024]

I appreciate that you got right to it. Put the links up and great information excited to give this a try.

[@The_Ol_Bizzaroo]

Found this video this week. The parts arrive next week. Thanks for the video and links! This is going to be perfect for my next two projects.

[@IQLion]

I really like the design and was definitely looking at something similar earlier this year, after discovering the world of router sleds. However, after buying a cnc, I find it very difficult to justify something like this. I don't make any large projects, so between my lunchbox planer and the CNC, I can easily accomplish the same result. The CNC may not have the capacity or the power to do some things, but for a small shop like mine, having one tool that can perform several tasks is definitely a plus. Not slamming the idea, just will have to file it away for when I have a larger shop.

[@shrimpinpat]

Came across this looking up DIY cnc. Very nice work. Wasn’t what I’m trying to do but stopped to check it out

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Cool, thanks!

[@mharbaugh]

Whoa, totally building this!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

nice!

[@alanmalnak6397]

Version 2 - I used 1 1/2" and 2" aluminum angle. the combination work out perfectly with the size of the blocks. Making a 'Z', the 2" covers the top of the block, and aligning the 1 1/2 brings it to the bottom of the rail. A few rivets and it was quick and easy. It's also a nice look with the aluminum, the stainless rails, and clear 1/2" plastic.

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Awesome, I've been playing around with something similar! Hoping to have a new video about it out soon. Thanks for watching!

[@abrahamlincoln8913]

I have no clue what you said. Show us please

[@BassadorWoodworking]

This is amazing. I don't currently have a use for this to justify the purchase, but I will find uses to justify it to myself.

[@raimundoferreira7626]

Well done , that’s something that I will be building and using on my garage Thanks again

[@KohlHosein]

Lol. I love how you just don't care lol. It's like.. you like me or you don't... it is what it is

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Only way to go through life, thanks for watching!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Parts List Pair of 1200mm Rails: amzn.to/3ioJdIJ Pair of 2000mm Rails: amzn.to/3XNGUzk 12x12 1/2" Acrylic: amzn.to/3mAaNRM Assorted M4 Screws: amzn.to/3lklCYV (Amazon Affiliate Links) ➡➡My Website: www.cncyalater.com/ ➡➡My Instagram: instagram.com/hamilton_dilbeck/ ➡➡My Patreon: www.patreon.com/hamiltondilbeck

[@christobaben3944]

This is definitely something I can build to flatten my workbench.. its is a beast and my homemade version wasn't cutting it (pun was a happy accident). Plus, this version being modular can scale it up or down for slab flattening. You got my subscription and definitely turning on notifications. Keep up the great work!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

That's awesome! Thanks so much!

[@joek511]

I just got 2, 48 inch, and 2, 24 inch rails with 8 slide blocks from the local salvage yard. Cost, $18 bucks. God works in amazing ways

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Awesome find!

[@joek511]

@@HamiltonDilbeck Yes it was. Looking at your opening image. Is your router zero at the bottom of the mount rails? My clearance is 1.75. In other words, the distance from the mounting surface of my base rails to the bottom of the router rails is 1.75". Did you make your router mount so the zero was lower or at your clearance?

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Yes my router base is mounted to the plate that is parallel with the rail bottoms

[@edreusser4741]

Paste wax is the solution to that sound. It will also save a lot of energy by making it move much easier.

[@discerningx3375]

Rigidity is key. I made mine with all aluminum C channel and L channel. Also recommend putting cross members on both rail sets. Net net, accuracy came out max deviation 9 thou.

[@toadsprocket7598]

so I saw this, and looked at your page for a follow up. Didn't see anything but did see a cnc video a month later. I had searched SBR rail router sled to find it in the first place because I had just ordered a similar set up, and wanted to see what i could find. If in your experience this didnt work out because you did exactly what I am planning to do.

[@skylord8625]

Great. I was looking at aluminum extrusion but was worried about the load bearing capabilities. This is the cheapest and best option.

[@slope1957]

Something else, too. You might want to consider some sort of dust extraction set-up. I have a similar sled and I can tell you, these things produce a HUGE amount of dust.

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Yeah, I've been thinking on it. Might have a solution in the future!

[@reaper060670]

I have 2 lengths of 800mm I got off VEVOR a while back and I think I'm going to get 2x1500mm lengths and I've had an idea to have one plate for a Router and one for a top of the line Circular saw. I think this is worth having instead of a very expensive table saw.. I need to build some form of screw stops to lock the Saw blades into place on the cross lengths . I will be fitting some rulers of a type onto the base cross and length ways to be able to get good measurements of the wood I'll be cutting. I would not use Perspex. I would rather use Aluminium1/4 or 1/2" thick plate. Yes it's a bit more expensive than a 12x12" square of Perspex but for the saw's function it's a lot safer imho. I bought the Linear Guide rails originally bcos I was thinking of building my own metalworking Lathe but I'm not a good welder as yet and it would've cost me an arm and a leg...LITERALLY PAL.. Ugh! LOL I enjoyed this video though mate. It was a well thought of idea and very informative. I will be building mine soon and getting 2 uses for it. I'm trying t5o think of a way of getting it to cut mitres wile up on the rails too. If u have any ideas for something like that I would be very grateful to hear them. I just think something like this has many more applications than just the router plate. I think u have the makings of a brilliant build with more ways of using the piece u built. Just a thought my friend. Hope u didn't mind me making those suggestions to much. I mean no disrespect by it. Keep up the great work man. Just found ur channel this morning. I have sub'd liked and all that good stuff.

[@edadpops1709]

Yes bench platen needs to be flat and level both ways in order to get a perfect milled cut. More work than just leveling 2 long fixed wood rails .Im building mine with bearings and rails ,that being said 👍

[@shawnmckenna5174]

Here's a helping hint, actually 2 1st think of maybe hinging to a side wall, of shop,with legs that hinge to bottom of your table. I'm working on that setup now myself. 2nd. An alternative to the plexiglass, is make your own plexiglass, thickness to your desire. The clear resins and acrylics, although a little pricey are worth it. You'll be styling!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Interesting!

[@trumpetflowerII]

In Australia, the rails are unavailable and considerably more than what you pay in the US. Your suggestions are good and I've seen similar copies on other KZbin sites where the prices quoted are closer to A$1000.

[@mountainside_studio]

awesome design!

[@sambgroovy123]

Wow, thanks for sharing this and for the links.

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

You bet!

[@williammessenger9637]

With just a little bit of finagling you could attach a stylus and make a 1:1 copy router with this. Just thinkin' out loud.

[@sirmichael9044]

Great router sled

[@beauellerson8668]

you should have added some star hand knobs so you could lock it in place for dados. or use slotted rails.

[@bliblobliblob3279]

Great tool.

[@douglasbattjes3991]

Great video on the build, did you look at the longer 4 SBR20 UU blocks and rail system, only issue is the cross rails are longer or shorter. Would like to have one close to yours but 8' long . making a walnut table and like to do it in one pass. I'm worried about the joint if you have to add one more rail to the SBR16 system, you think it might jump just a bit? or did you already add a longer rail yours already. Thanks so much for the video, I'm going to mill aluminum plate for the connector cross router system, one other thing, did you think of a way to make an adjustment for height? other than the router ?👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@michaelproviano7646]

Good afternoon. I realize this video is a couple years old but I have a question. This video shows links for the linear rails for the rider but do you have to buy the rails those linear rails attach too. Thanks in advance and I love your videos!

[@briankillebrew]

Have you considered making the carriage slightly larger and adding a dust port to hook a vacuum up?

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

I haven't tried that. If you do try it, remember the larger you make the sled the less capacity your system has.

[@blarvinius]

Fantastic! One question: how do you rule out creating a hyperbolic paraboloid? (Pun intended)

[@SeanKelly1]

I'm jazzed to try making one of these! If I heard correctly, you store (vertically?) when not in use? How much of a hassle is making sure it's level/co-planar every time you pull it out again?

[@geraldsmith8878]

I will build using 20mm and 40mm for top rail. The hope is to use it not only for a router but also with a saw, planer and sander.

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Interested to see how it turns out!

[@ziggybombers1563]

I us hgr20 rails there is no movement in then and there is dust caps on the ends of the bearings. Use polycarbonate for the router base, 12mm thick it’s not going to move lol.

[@yannickyann3801]

hi, please could you show us how you launch your router on thoses rails again but more harder. i need to see a router flying...

[@RonKanter]

I'm looking for insight into router bits for fastening. Your recommended Binstack bit is certainly inexpensive at $45. How would it compare to an Amana or Whiteside at five or more times the cost? Maybe this is an impossible question since it depends on cost versus quality of cut, life of bit, size, and so one. Still do you have any further thoughts about how you came to chose the Binstack or other insights? And thanks for an excellent video, well, explained with all the needed links.

[@sekritskworl-sekrit_studios]

NICE!!! I'm wondering how you would go about elevation for a router sled which can handle taller pieces (like 2'-3').

[@danlupardus]

This is fantastic! Has anyone thought about some sort of dust cover to help keep the shavings down and contained?

[@anthonyfonseca4263]

2 words leaf blower, open doors 4 words

[@gregchristinewhite6571]

Any plans on how to build the cradle?

[@MustPassTruck]

Now for an overhead arm for power cords and vacuum tubes.

[@tkdlance1]

What are the stops that you used on the ends of the rails? I gotta say thank you for making this video. I've created so many JIGS for my router but I think this will be the best thing I'll make for my router to finish my tables.

[@gabefoltz5815]

So I am building one of these sleds, and this video was one of the primary motivations. But when I try to install the perpendicular rails onto the bearings of the bottom rails, the drilled holes do not match up at all. However, I can see from your video that you have2 screws going into each of the 4 bearings, lining up nice and neat with the holes in the upper rails. Did yours just come like that, and I am unlucky? Or did you have to modify the holes in the upper rails?

[@kishmauss7970]

At 7:41 you mention the possibility for sagging if longer cross rails were used. Do you think there would be much sag if the 1500mm (59”) rails were used instead of the 1200mm cross rails you used in the video?

[@bigk4755]

I love Woodpecker’s Tools, but they can be a little pricey. For measuring and layout tools their price is easily justified, and I will always opt to support American jobs over any Chinese BS. But if I am able to build a comparable setup myself then that is usually my preference as well.

[@stphbld767]

That's funny cause as i discover your channel and video, i've order exactly the same pieces to make my router sled. i was looking for a metal plate to hold the tool but this one seem to do the job well. thanks for your video and idea !

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Glad it's useful! Working on a better way to easily mount the router, but the video won't be out for a while.

[@laurac4562]

like it, great idea and video

[@Maxime-ho9iv]

Funny enough I am currently building the exact same thing and I discover your video. But I was concerned about the flex over a large distance, and is it me or does it actually flex in the beginning of the video? Did you check with a straight edge with the weight of the router?

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

I think that was more of the router plung wiggle. From what I've seen its very straight. I haven't had any issues, not sure how much wider I would go, though!

[@iainbrown4945]

Excellent !

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Many thanks!

[@jimwilliamson6267]

Are the small Set Screws just to lock the blocks in place when you're not using it? I had 5 of them fall out on my first project.

[@kevinwelsh7490]

My God! I don't want to BUILD it!! I don't build things, I buy things.

[@antmaster79]

Does the extension collet vibrate at all? I have read that many cheap ones and mine included generate huge vibration

[@jakekarlen7729]

Did you have any problem getting the 1/2'' shank of the router bit into the extension that you listed in the description? I got your setup and the bit will not fit down into the coulet. Thanks.

[@danlalande7973]

I was going to make one of these and make a video but you beat me to the punch. I was just thinking the other day .... why hasn't this become the standard?

[@drewjohnson4673]

There are a million videos on this topic.

[@Project314]

What sort of plunge depth can you attain with that setup?

[@alindorindicu3732]

Hi! Thanks for sharing! I have a doubt, does it flex vertically at the begining of the video? Have you measured the "flatness" on a wide slab?

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Mine have all been flat!

[@alindorindicu3732]

@@HamiltonDilbeck Thanks :)

[@Indyken]

How do you secure the pieces you are planing from sliding around?

[@laurac4562]

anyway to adapt any of this system into your Onefinity system to make it larger?

[@helsington]

Considering the relatively long size of the upper rails, don't you have the problem of them being not perfectly straighy (u shape)? My sled, having a 1.5m long upper section is having a roughly 1 mm difference because of a slight bend in the center - how would you solve that?

[@marquisbois990]

SBR20 should be ok at that size but there may be sagging in the middle where the lower rails are different metal. Mine came as SS on Alu and had 2-3mm deflection…unbolting and separating solved it and I mounted the bars on the bocks with readily available clamps on the blocks.

[@brianbarnes8567]

Just curious what size is your table that the rails are mounted on? I’m curious if the end rails were secured properly and the front and back rails were hanging off the edge of a table would it flex or be unstable? I’m working on something but I think the max depth of the surface would be 36” which I think would limit me to 25” wide slabs.

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Its all on a 4x8 table. This allows width of around 36"

[@dabarsaune]

🙋 .Nice work! I am interested what's exact model of bearing you use and can be fully tightened with that side screw ?thanks

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Those are the SBR16 Bearing Blocks that come with the SBR16 Linear Rails

[@jasonmiller3934]

Do you have plans?

[@henkswildens9809]

My system gives friction, meaning it does not move smooth. How do you align the base rail?

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

I've aligned mine by just running the middle to one end, screwing it down, and then runnning it to the other end and screwing it down. Hope that helps!

[@johnbranca6880]

I wish you had included some basic plans. I am copying what I see on your videos, but it is really trial by error.

[@pablomunoz7041]

Excelente video amigo, puedes enviarme los datos de la fresa? Saludos desde México.

[@pedroramirez5154]

Pablo, ya encontraste la fresa?

[@BarrySumpter]

Make sure you get the correct tail size that matches the bearing block. I.e. screw holes on the rails I purchased did not match the screw holes on the bearing blacks. Absolute nightmare matching the ridiculously accurate accurate machined screw holes on the blocks to where to drill out the screw hole on the miss matched rails. Seller really messed me about on that one. Soo freakin agro after that combined with building a cradle out of cheap Chinese crap quality ply I’ll be purchasing my next one.

[@TheBogyy]

Can’t get the rails in Canada

[@cyc4ctk92]

the screws that you have in your description there too small for those blocks do know the correct size?

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Yeah, I've had others reach out about that too. Turns out they are sending out different size screw holes in some of their blocks. I believe the other size is M5. Hope that helps!

[@marcgodare6443]

Can you add on to the side rails to make it longer? I need about 12ft

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

I haven't done it myself, yet. But I don't see any reason that you cant. I would just make sure to take the time to mount them to a 12' board to make sure that they are straight. If not you might get some bumping when the bearing block goes over the intersection.

[@danielpaulus4189]

Hello, How do you determine where to drill when you attach the rail or router support to the block? Indeed, the four holes are no longer visible when you place the rail or support on the block and it is not possible to mark them because the holes are no longer visible!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Theres a few ways. Easiest would be putting some blue tape to cover all the holes, mark the holes with a sharpie on the tape, or punch them out with a screw, and then use the piece of tape to make a small jig block for the future or put the tape directly on the rail and drill where the holes are marked.

[@danielpaulus4189]

@@HamiltonDilbeck Thnkyou , I will try

[@trucdan0331]

Hi. This is a great video. Is SBR16 is strong enough or should I go with SBR20?

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

I've found that the sbr16 is plenty strong for the size thats in my video.

[@trucdan0331]

@@HamiltonDilbeck Thank you. Looks like the SBR16 1200mm is not available. I will look for it again. Otherwise, it doesn't hurt to go with SBR 20, correct? Seems like there are more SBR20 available on Amazon.

[@contessa.adella]

What you haven’t addressed is assuming your bench is dead flat with no twist…and maybe it is, but folk setting something like this up need to be aware of checking it.

[@SRR-hh5yj]

😒 I've purchased these rails thru Amazon twice now the bearings have fallen out of one of the bearing blocks. I don't recommend the bearing blocks that come with the rails.

[@vinaymiriyala4522]

how did you mount the wood on the bearing blocks? I'm finding it hard to get it right for the 4 holes

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

So I've found that using blue tape and using that to mark out hole locations is helpful and then transfering that for drilling onto the material.

[@vinaymiriyala4522]

@@HamiltonDilbeck Just tried it, I'm still finding it hard to be 100% accurate using this method

[@MrT-dn5hm]

Hey everyone! I am trying to order the parts but it says unavailable :( Is that because i'm in Canada or are they sold out?? Thanks for any help I am very excited to get this project going and the projects I am using this router sled for!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Updated the 2000mm link. Its a strange item and sells out fast so I have to update them regularly. Might be able to find them cheaper on ebay, though! Not sure if its a USA Canada issue. Hope this helps!

[@amazinga.f.artwork9047]

Hey I was Looking for a way to contact ya. I just Made one this week. I used the Bosch Router Table plate. I think I my make a video of it too just to help other people out. Awesome video. Another guy has one like this too. Kman builds or something like that. Thing works awesome !!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

That's a great idea, let me know of any ways you make it better!

[@amazinga.f.artwork9047]

@@HamiltonDilbeck I definitely will😀.

[@threesonsrestorations4043]

Did you end up making a video of your setup? I've got the same router, and am interested in more details about the plate you used. Did you use the adapter plate and just screw it on to the bearing blocks? Thanks!

[@amazinga.f.artwork9047]

@@threesonsrestorations4043 I’m getting ready to make the video soon I just have the plate bolted to the blocks. It seems to be working well so far.

[@amazinga.f.artwork9047]

@@threesonsrestorations4043 yes. That’s all i have done is just bolted it down.

[@BSDConstantine]

My block holes don't seem to line up with the holes in the top rail. I guess I can try it with 1 screw, but that seems silly . Maybe someone has an idea for this

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Interesting, from what I've heard it seems like the quality control from the Amazon seller is not great. If I were you, I would put blue painters tape over the holes on the bearing block, mark the holes on the tape, transfer the tape onto the rails and then drill new holes for the screws to go into. Hope this helps!

[@larrywessels9638]

@@HamiltonDilbeck what is the dimension of the screw holes on the bearing block and how deep are they?

[@danifem]

You can see it really sagging down unfortunately

[@davadoff]

Yep. Those rails are meant to be supported… not span a wide gap, floating in mid air.

[@dwindlefoddl7225]

How drunk were you when posted that?!? Did you bother to notice that those rails CAN'T bow or bend?! Ever see how a linear is constructed?! Didnt think so...

[@dwindlefoddl7225]

No you can't..jealous much?

[@dwindlefoddl7225]

@@davadoff Yet hundreds and hundreds of ppl have this se set-up and never a problem..How do think CNC routers work.???!! Maybe you should try going to school or watch a video how linear rsils are made???!!! Wow...smh..

[@davadoff]

@@dwindlefoddl7225 those type of rails are designed to be supported by a flat surface all the way along.

[@KevinVasko]

At kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKmoinmpjMlnrqs you slide the sled down the longer linear rail. What is on the end of the linear rail to keep it from falling off (e.g. what is it bumping into)?

[@davadoff]

I grimaced at the metal grinding sound when he said “it is buttery smooth…” and pushed the sled 😬 Those Chinese bearing blocks probably arrive dry, but they will be much smoother and quieter when properly lubricated.

[@MrMerab]

S U P E R ......

[@18magicMARKer]

no 99% don't know what it is, if they did why would they click on it and why would u need to explaine it? stop acting like you're annoyed and have to talk about this.

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@XSNOIZ]

Easy there keyboard warrior. If you don’t like it, keep on moving.

[@Winston-hw8wb]

sorry bro.. it is SAGGING!a lot! Not the best design.. almost useless.. considering flatness.. cheers from europe

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

To anyone reading this, its not sagging. Also "useseless" isn't a word. No need to be sorry, cheers from North America.

[@Winston-hw8wb]

@@HamiltonDilbeck you should check from 08second of your video.. good luck

[@Winston-hw8wb]

corrected thanks!

[@HamiltonDilbeck]

@@Winston-hw8wb I know you think it is, but thats clearly sideways movement.

[@Winston-hw8wb]

@@HamiltonDilbeck Those rails even if sbr20 are not supposed to bear the weight of a router..cca 2/3kg even more.. per se on such a tight point of load. They are only for frictionless travel.. I am making my own with sbr12, 30x30 alu extrusions supporting x and y movement.. so no sagging for sure.. but hey as you amerikans say it is gud n'uff. cheers