DIY // Self Leveling Floor Compound : How To

[@boyankartolov5342]

A faster way of achieving this exact same result is to lower the laser close to the ground and use your drill as the measurement tool. You can then screw or unscrew the fastener until it lines up with a a pre-positioned mark on the drill. This way you can ditch the meter stick and fly through the grid mapping process only using the drill.

[@orens7455]

Brilliant

[@jgkrus]

So you are saying is for example if using a laser, find the high sport and put the laser or marking near the floor and adjust the screws up or down to meet the marking?

[@ExtremeRecluse]

Now you lay Ditra over the self leveling cement?

[@vinhtran7686]

Smart

[@nitemarenate]

If u keep the drill perfectly plumb and square when u drill

[@bubbalo3388]

For those thinking this is easy by watching this video, be aware. Using leveling compound for a small area is a viable option. But it's not cheap and will add up for large areas. The materials are expensive. For a small job you can probably get away with just some basic tools if you have the right ones. But if you need to use multiple bags and buy tools then the job cost and complications grow exponentially. You have like a 10 minute window to work with the material. You would have to clean out the bucket after each mix or use several buckets as done here. You cannot just mix one after the other because the residual from the batch before will start to set and adding water will not liquidfy batch prior. You would need one to work the poured batch and another to mix and you would have to time it. Also you would have to figure out where you are going to clean the bucket and where to dispose of cleanup. There is not much room for error. You don't properly mix it then it will not work properly. You can't finish working it in 10 in minutes then also a problem. Removing botched up concrete from floor another headache. Not saying it is bad but you better fully understand how to use it and see what options you have. Oh, and if you have OSB subflooring, leveling compound is not compatible. Only options you have are Hery 549 or Ardex feather finish. Both are way more expensive than leveling compounds.

[@magicteen1]

Thanks for the info! Ver informative

[@bartseller8601]

That's why you definitely don't use something that's fast sitting for a large area unless you got multiple guys there. Even then it's better I think to get something that has a longer working time.

[@bubbalo3388]

@@bartseller8601 any idea of what options will work?

[@VTRex]

Wow! You are the first one I've seen that has explained a way to know how much leveler to put down and to know if you have enough leveler in any given area of the floor. That is forehead smacking simple! Brilliant! Thank you!

[@mirageleung]

This was the best video I’ve seen on self leveling hands down. You’ve got a subscriber in me. Absolutely LOVED the technique of using screws. That is genius. Thank you

[@Hawkeye17-pj9gy]

Super cool channel & any tile guy/gal on the floor w out pads has my respect every time

[@tetosol6038]

Can I just say your leg game is strong! Obviously your skills are 100!

[@FireAnt947]

Those thighs! However I learned so much!

[@DMB-pe8hk]

I just bought an 8-ft level and used Henry's Feather Finish... the least problematic of any. In spots where I had to do more, it doesn't crack, and you have the option to build it up more after it dries if needed. No primer or adhesive needed. Great product (no personal interests in it or stock).

[@jeffmoffett1337]

Another approach to finding the level is to first find the high spot the same way you instructed, including putting a screw at the desired height at that spot. However, before installing the screw at the high spot, place the laser level on the floor (no tripod) so that the horizontal line covers the room. Then install the screw, but keeping the drill screw bit in the screw and holding the drill level add a strip of painter's tape on the drill so the laser line sits approx in the center of the tape. Mark with a marker where the line sits, or use two lines, one above and below the mark so the laser sits between. Then go around the floor and insert screws in any pattern, screw in until the laser line falls on the line, or between in my uses and it should be level. Then, when you are done, check with a level, and the screw should all be at the same height. Adjust any that are off. Just another approach.

[@JA-dk3xc]

quick tip .. once u determined what screw will be ur high spot.. set ur lazer on that screw.. as reference .. then take blue painters tape and tape the head of ur cordless drill while drive the next screw down.. once u drive down the screw and it reaches leve with lazer mark .. mark the blue tape .. on ur drill .. know u dont hv 2 keep using the ruler as ref.. u hv ur lazer as perfect ref as u drive the one down until it reaches ref line on dril with lazer.. ull blow thru even faster.. with same results..

[@HB-yq8gy]

Thank you awesome video! I must see the laser line to pour up to. Method measuring down from laser level with drywall screws I was off only 1/4 just for the sterling tub combo. I reapplied a second time and used the same self-leveler plus over plywood and prime T spot-on!

[@MrAppletown]

I had a lot of fun learning Thanks.

[@Echo3_]

WOW! You are really talented! There are so many parts of this I struggle with. Mainly the measuring and translating that to the cuts. But for me this is like painting I get it but can`t really do it. Excellent work!

[@projectgaming3364]

Love these videos. Just subbed. Quick tip... if you don't have a long measure stick... use a tape measure to get the initial height, and mark the height on a spirit level (with rubber end removed so it's flat on the edge)... then you just go round the room with the level, which also ensures you're going vertical and getting exact height each time. 😊

[@lyndasanders4782]

Best instructional I've seen, I now absolutely know I can do this, thank you so much!

[@ThatTileChick]

Glad it helped!

[@nicholasgranat2999]

I admire your grit,skill and performance!

[@joelwerre]

I bet you and Chris's combined squat numbers are better than most construction crews out there. Great video, screw technique is pretty slick.

[@stephenbrunker6569]

I enjoy watching your videos. I still haven’t learned s*** about laying tile but I enjoy watching your videos.

[@newerahopefamily3837]

Just watched the entire video.. It was very thorough and informative. I watched a few other ones and by far this one was the best. I do a lot of contract work but I am working on one of my own properties and I had to redo a section of the kitchen floor do to rot. The new flooring is a little off and the entire floor in itself has some high spots.. Planning to lay some underlayment wood on top, tape it off and level out the floor using what I learned in this video. Thanks so much for putting this out! God bless.

[@benjamindelfs2718]

Just waterproof it with WPM and a two part and 4:1 sand cement bedding with with bird wire to achieve the height and flatness. Floor leveller is expensive and you need multiple applications to get the right height.

[@quietrioter]

I now know what to prep for when I build my home

[@ThatTileChick]

thats aweosme !!

[@AMERICANA-BOOMSTICK]

I’ve gotta to this on concrete, thanks for the upload

[@Sticksandstones292]

Super detailed, I’d hire you in a heartbeat.

[@ThatTileChick]

Wow, thanks!

[@NathanHarrison7]

Wow, what an excellent video. I think would be easier to be a neurosurgeon. This process is a lot of work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Subscribed.

[@juanortega4904]

Wow very informative, excellent results, great job….

[@ThatTileChick]

Thank you!

[@mj97869]

Good video, I know it's not easy to do. Just a note Laticrete requires 1/4" min. thickness over wood. 1/8" min. over concrete. Thank you!

[@KpxUrz5745]

There are many videos on this topic. I would suggest watching about a dozen of them before starting, to be aware of slightly differing methods and tips.

[@efthimios]

Your awesome. I just ripped up tile in the house i just got, and there is so much old mortar in the sub floor. I didnt realize i have to grind that down too! :( and also the subfloor had to be replaced in some areas due to dog urine and its not level in some points, really stressed about leveling it our ugh.

[@downtownian5606]

Great video. Love to see everyone’s methods!

[@clwhite626]

Right on, thank you very much! And great job with the video! I am subscribing! 😊

[@seanmellows1348]

Good stuff, not many people use these slu products properly. This installation is off to a great start.

[@ThatTileChick]

Glad you think so!

[@toddwrenn7741]

My laundry room floor used to be part of the garage, and at worst it has a 2 inch drop over 8 feet. I’ll be installing 12 x 48“ tiles. My contractor friend wants me to compensate with thinset. I’ve done enough tile to know that will be disastrous. Your video is extraordinarily helpful and has given me the confidence to try SLU.

[@nicholasgranat2999]

Do no compensate w thinset! Wire lath over felt paper and drypack mud floor is a good option!

[@toddwrenn7741]

I wound up hiring a contractor to lay the tile. He had been highly recommended. But he did a really crappy job for me, even though I protested his leveling. It sucks to pay someone to do work for you, and then find that you could’ve done a better job yourself.

[@bassgeorge1234]

Do you know why everyone advises me against the self-leveling to use in the basement garage? Complements. A work of art.

[@ThatTileChick]

Not sure George, contact one of these manufacturers directly they can give you a definitive answer as to yes or no

[@victorvek5227]

Use a spiked roller to eliminate pin holes from the bubbles!

[@mseesea]

PSA: LATICRETE NXT LEVEL Plus & NXT LEVEL Plus Lite require a minimum application thickness of 1/4" over wood substrates and 1/8" over concrete. @5:14

[@oneliocas30]

Very well explained, Thank you.

[@ruben5905]

I will never tile but I still watched the whole thing on my lunch break. Didnt know about boxing off the door

[@ThatTileChick]

Thank you for watching!! If you ever need tile done you will know what is right!

[@ct3685]

This is great, thanks ☺️ I just replaced a 38’x14ft’ area of subflooring and need to level it all out before laying new flooring. The entire area is 38x26 but only part of it needed new subfloor because the original homeowners put 3/4 then 3/8 then 3/4 for the rest of the subfloor that wasn’t carpet originally.

[@ExtremeRecluse]

I used Ditra over my OSB subfloor. Later found out that I had a 1/2 dip in the middle of my 5 x8 subfloor. I have ripped up the Ditra and used a grinder to remove the thinset. Now I will use this technique without Ditra.

[@ThatTileChick]

Sorry you found out after! Once you finish the SLU pour you can ditra over that if you would like

[@ExtremeRecluse]

@@ThatTileChick I will tile over the concrete

[@brandonkeller4]

You’re the shiznit! Smartest useful woman I’ve ever heard in the trade!!

[@lorenzoricheri4485]

You're awesome! I've just found your yt channel, before i was following you only on Facebook and Instagram. You're brilliant, I love what you do and how you do. I love the effort you put into every single work. Please, continue to be like that. Big kiss from Italy 🇮🇹

[@ThatTileChick]

Thank you!!! I appreciate you so much and I want to really provide value 🖤🖤

[@jasonbowman7190]

I've seen a video where someone put blue tape on his drill and lined up the laser with a mark on the tape. Just make sure when repositioning the laser, to keep it at the same height each time.

[@GaryGoRound-to7ld]

I use a laser level mounted to a wall or on the stand and use a tape measure from the floor up to the laser beam to find the high / low spot(s)

[@christopherdekonstrukt444]

44' of drain line was replaced in my house as a condition of purchase and they didn't level the patched areas after they filled in the slab... and threw ceramic tiles on top. After using 30 10oz tubes of Fix a Floor adhesive and still having hollow spots I realized what was going on. Tiles will have to be taken up and the floor properly leveled and new tiles laid down.

[@boogiefpv1982]

That's Awesome that U've got ur fiance working with u!💪🏼🤙🏼🙃 I used to lay tile, too for 15yrs & I got hurt in a car accident! I miss doing it honestly good pay & feels good that you made a masterpiece 😂! Keep doing it thing guys! 🤙🏼

[@ThatTileChick]

Yes it’s a blessing to work with your partner!! Thanks for watching

[@johnfisher2495]

Very nice job!

[@mattbram8993]

Super helpful thank you!

[@ericarnsdorff3441]

This is terrific! I need to do this next in my bathroom to ultimately lay large format tile. Your videos are extremely helpful! Now I know what to do and I'm going to use the same Laticrete product you used.

[@ThatTileChick]

Awesome Eric thanks for watching! If you live in the US you can now purchase Laticrete retail at your local Floor and Decor

[@ericarnsdorff3441]

@@ThatTileChick thanks!! They have it all in stock!

[@VTRex]

@@ThatTileChick Sorry. Your laticrete link seems to be broken. Amazon saying they no longer sell it.

[@mmproperties4350]

Great information Schannon

[@kevingrove7959]

Great vid. I have an 187 sq ft garage im going to try. Wish me luck.

[@xtremlimitz101]

I’m in love

[@willythe4]

Hey girl, (and Camera Man - we MUST NEVER forget the Camera Man !!!) if you’re anywhere near Sarasota Florida I need your help lol !!!

[@seegraybuild8487]

Super informative! Thank you!!

[@ThatTileChick]

Thank You!

[@GrizzleeBehr]

I like this video, like, a lot.

[@felixfelix853]

What if the floor is concrete?what do you use in lieu of the screws?

[@harraikhalsa]

Great work! Thanks for the info.

[@hubbar00sj]

I thought for this self-leveler you had to do a 1/4" over plywood? Can you do 1/8"? I just bought this thinking I could do 1/8 inch over plywood and the bag says 1/4 inch, ugh!

[@cdevol10]

Great stuff! Respectful FYI: that's a Folding Rule, not a measuring stick... Thanks for the great info!

[@WerewolfSlayer91]

The point of the self leveling is that it levels itselft right. I get you don't pour everything on the middle spot on the floor, but kinda distribute the mass and try to get it moved out by (any tool desired),even if it is selfleveing as said. You need to know the highest point and follow the sheet for determining the highest point and add the amount of mass that would be atleast over that height. Assuming you were aiming for the minimum I would probably make a cage of plexi glass and put the laser in that box and set it at desired height of the floor. Once there is no laser on the wall - the datasheet recommendation height is met. You had to makeup for the amount the laser displaced - a liter or 1/3 gallon or something, but you should have the time to do that before the mass hardens to much. Then you'd probably just had to mix that area where the laser was to blend it inn so the masses do not crack/split. Also always rebar mesh/grid should always be on concrete/Concrete like flooring masses. If its a 1 inch self leveling mass you'd probably not be able to use it, but those masses has unique properties for that. I'm not any expert or a concrete worker, but have done some work with a master carpenter which has done alot of concrete work. But then again some building standards in my country is insane. Else great video and your doing a good job explaining, and think is great that women also does this. A real woman for sure, of how they should be. Aspiring to be a real estate investor and will see how it goes the next years if I ever make it. ROI//cashflow in the states are easier to come by

[@I-TILE]

Nice Job!

[@PhillyPianst]

Great video. Did you get the coverage you expected? What size was the room, what brand did you use and how thick was it on average. Is grinding necessary on brand new plywood? Thanks.

[@moonblink]

I can see that Lara Croft don't miss leg day! 👍

[@losll]

Great video with excellent details and easy to understand. If I do this with rooms upstairs, would the weight of the self leveler be a concern?

[@ThatTileChick]

before pouring make sure your subfloor is in good condition. Make sure the subfloor is secure before pouring and always check with the manufacturer of the products you are using for the joist spacing requirements of the subfloor.

[@SouthernGuardian]

Great vids. Really enjoy them. Just purchased the 4 line version of yalls heupar laser. Since you've obviously had yours for over a year, I wanted to get your input on how well it's held up. Any issues?

[@jb-es5zj]

have you seen how you can use the laser level with your drill find the high spot mark it on your drill then you can adjust your screws off your drill n dont have to use the measure stick so your laser basiclt sits on the floor

[@ThatTileChick]

Yes that is a great way to do it !

[@cassandramelendez3119]

Love your videos.

[@ThatTileChick]

thanks !! so happy you like them :)

[@paulrose6282]

Good job like a pro

[@douglasthompson9482]

Great video.".. I just subscribed

[@KeithWalker-fx2ks]

New to this. I didn’t hear it in the video, but you do leave the screws in? Is that correct?

[@pat7473]

assuming when I pour the floor leveler, The level will be higher than any existing old grout lines or thinset... is it still necessary to use my angle grinder to grind down the floor beforehand? want it just fill in all the cracks and crevices and old thinset lines?

[@VP411Designs]

Great video, can this self leveling product be used for entire floor if as needed to level out? Or is this considered to heavy due to weight issues? Can this self leveling product be spread out over entire floor to get a nice even solid leveled floor?

[@VP411Designs]

Awesome videos, love the channel. Big fan. Quick question. Can this self leveler concept be used over an entire second floor if i intend to add Lx Vinyl flloring on top? I'm in Texas and I was told that some structural engineers do not recommend alot of concrete weight added to the entire floor especially for tiling adds to much weight on second floor.

[@WillMag]

Listen. Buy a floor leveler that says from feather edge to 1.5" or more or less if you need less.. Mix it wet and let it run like water. It will shrink in some spots but not a ridiculous amount. If you have the time, take one more bag the next day, mix that wet as all hell as well and put in on top and boom. Laser level without the screw bs. If you dont have time, skim with mortar and low spots an gr before tile. The 4 arm cage style mixers that go in any drill at hd,-Put the water level in the bucket to about the top of the cage give or take a half inch,put in a half bag on top of the water, mix to water consistency , dump the other half and repeat..( if its been sitting on a shelf in a hardware store for 5 years, you're gonna need more water than a bag from hd or low low), line up your bags and your buckets and mix and pour as fast as possible to get everything running freely together. Start at one end of the room and weave to the other, walking your way out the door. . Don't just pour in one spot. Use multiple buckets and multiple people when possible. So you just keep dumping buckets. It will help everything flow together better, also. Another technique i used is say im mixing 3 4 or more buckets. Mix them all before you pour. Now right before you pour, run thru each bucket again with the mixer rt before its dumped, preferable with one person mixing and one dumping. The reason being, if the bucket sits after mixing.. the sediment that is supposed to be flowing evenly thru the whole bucket, sinks to the bottom. Like literally by the second it gets more and more bottom heavy. Leaving all the water at the top. So when the floor dries. The spots that are mostly water will be low spots and the spots that are solid sediment will stand higher and have friction against itself from flowing around like it should. This happens to a small degree no matter what when you mix wet and let it level itself. But its like a 10th of the work of all that screw bs. And if your in a big room, you gotta wear cleats and all that. Some people might argue to much water makes the leveler weak but. Its been solid every time ive done it so. Iduno. Trust me, ive been in a kitchen (after going by the watering directions) and had to go buy a diamond floor shaving wheel, put up all kinds of plastic and waisted a half day just knocking down bullshit from the pour being too dry. And come to think of it, that time I did do the screw method. Ive had to grind two big floors from this sht not running right,weather you push it around or not. Trust me. Let it run like water and if you have to ad more after, its a milionth of the work of grinding. And yeah, use foam. And stick around to look for spots that may be funneling into the ceiling or floor below. Some times its all good at first then finds a hole.

[@johnepperson8867]

Can you connect Pink Floyd audio to the laser ? Just say'in. Great video / explanation, thank you!

[@janveitch9309]

Thanks, great tips. Especially the spike shoes!

[@themonkeydrunken]

Nice work! Did you have any concerns about the primer on the metallic tape?

[@ManuelCastillo-pr6sl]

good work

[@joanslife2]

Questions.... Can I have a link to where you purchased your long knee pads? Can the self leveler be applies in individual sections of a room. My room us extremely large. How do you prevent the leveler from seeping pass the doorways?

[@eddieharding2432]

Good job .A little bit concerned about the bouncy floor joist , your tiles will crack ?

[@tron3737]

In this video, you are working from a wood substrate. According to the Laticrete data sheet, 1/4” is the minimal thickness for such a substrate-1/8” for concrete. Yet in this tutorial you employ a 1/8” minimum. Im just curious if this is consistently feasible(?) as I’m looking to do the same.

[@ThatTileChick]

That is my mistake and I would most definitely follow the data sheet Recommendations always !

[@tron3737]

@@ThatTileChick That being said, can it be tapered to zero for both wood & concrete? Or is zero tapering only applicable to concrete? The verbiage is a little … interpretative 😅

[@scotcurtiss5853]

NXT Level Plus self leveling data sheet requires a minimum of 1/4 inch material over the highest spot for wood substrates. My understanding of the data sheet is 1/8 minimum is used over concrete. Why did you choose to use only 1/8 inch material over wood subfloor/ substrate?

[@paulodefrancisca9210]

How long did you wait after the foam application before you applied your sealant?

[@dtrainw]

Porcelain tile over vinyl floor? Can I scuff, prime, thinset and tile? I don't know what's under the vinyl but it's all in good shape. Not bouncy and floor not chipped up. Thanks anyone!

[@jonnham]

What about when you're doing just a spot on the floor. How do you get the edges smooth?

[@SR-te2db]

Ruler says: 29 7/8 + 1/8 = 30". Caption says 27 7/8 + 1/8 = 28" (5:32) You said it's 29 7/8 + 3/4 to achieve a 1/8 minimum (but isn't that 6x the minimum?) I don't usually work with ft/in, so just wondering which one is right?

[@ThatTileChick]

That was a typo on the edit SR thanks for pointing that out

[@liers99]

Looking at the data sheets on nxt level plus. It’s saying minimum thickness over concrete is 1/8” minimum thickness over wood 1/2”. What am I missing?

[@salricci6191]

Question...your foam left a few inches of space around the drain...at the end, it looked like the plywood around the drain was not level with the pour. How will this effect your drain/pan?

[@seanmellows1348]

All right I’ll go. The foam can be trimmed with a knife, level with the poured self leveler. In this case, it will probably be scratched right out, and the remaining area filled with a different compound, likely thinset If it is a pre-sloped pan installation, at that time in conjunction with the drain flange installation. Anyway, that’s how I typically would do it.

[@ThatTileChick]

Great explanation Sean, this is pretty much spot on

[@Arlatube]

Your relying on the adhesive of the tape to the subfloor for your bond to the selt level material. And there was a lot of sq inches of tape used. Painters cauk and a flat wipe. Done. And only the size of the needed joint or hole.

[@dbcannon3152]

If you only put the screws 1/8th proud in your known high spots, you'd cover them with the compound and be accomplished .

[@tha073926]

I've seen a couple of videos using the screw method on plywood but what happens if the floor is concrete?

[@ThatTileChick]

We glue horse shoe spacers down with a hot glue gun in 1/16" or 1/8" to get our height needed

[@tha073926]

@@ThatTileChick that's a great idea. Will definitely consider using that technique for future projects. Thanks for the response and helpful videos.

[@emuhead]

screws, great idea!

[@leonardstefanyshyn40]

In your opinion is wire lath better than ditra?

[@davidwasicek9869]

I love tile

[@danielfeldman7913]

What's the maximum amount of subfloor variation can you work with (with the thinset), if you don't level first (or don't need to)?

[@ThatTileChick]

So industry standard is 1/8 over 10’ or 1/16” over 24” from the highest point. Thinset is not recommended due to the fact if you begin to push the limits of the thickness recommendations by the manufacturer it will sink significantly. Also most thinset takes 12/24hrs to dry so using a patching compound or SLU will save you time. With that being said sometimes you miss a spot during prep and you can trowel the substrate and your tile to make up for the variation in limited cases.

[@Noidstradamus]

@@ThatTileChick yikes. I have a small section of floor (4'x3') where our fridge used to sit. The previous owners set the left side of the fridge on top of an additional piece of flooring. Very janky. How would you recommend leveling a 1/2" to 3/4" difference over 4'? Doesn't have to look pretty. Just stable enough to keep the new fridge level.

[@shaunconny]

What did you have on your feet to walk on the compound?

[@ThatTileChick]

spike shoes for self leveler. you can find them on amazon

[@summer-oh4ib]

Using thinset to level is much better and easier on wood subfloor on selected areas only (low spots) and plane the high ones

[@halstirrup]

How do you do that?

[@ThatTileChick]

Thinset is not meant to level floors

[@ThatTileChick]

You don't. Its not meant for that and would never be recommended for a lasting install.

[@seanmellows1348]

No.

[@robertjonder544]

Thank you for wearing those tops! It's alot easier to watch you.

[@JW-rv1mw]

I know it will vary with depth needed, but how many bags do you think you used here?

[@chowsman1]

Why Laticrete? Have you used other SLU’s? Is it more fluid?

[@amirparsasharif778]

Good job it was very informative. Can you tell me as person that do this for a living, doesn't it take too much time? I mean the preparation itself took 2 days, doesn't that increase the labour cost too much? In another word isn't there any faster and/or cheaper way to wrap it up?

[@jb-es5zj]

the cheep man pays twice do it properly do it once

[@ThatTileChick]

Not if you are trying to provide quality to your clients. I run a business and want to uphold my reputation, not just rush a job to get paid and be finished. I don't see the value in that for myself or the client.

[@weekendhomeprojects]

Level AF