DIY Super Speed Boat

[@aggelos.d8314]

You are so underrated

[@Project-Air]

Feel free to share my stuff 😉

[@kogger_tech]

I'm absolutely agreed

[@Rowan.Albright]

@@Project-Air Haha!

[@LuisBermudez69]

S.t.u.p.i.d

[@PandaGamer-gw4td]

Yep

[@Sharklops]

"Might get a wet foot here" _puts entire shoe underwater_ Love the video man! Great project and can't wait to see more

[@Project-Air]

😂😂

[@jordanlynch8687]

@@Project-Air maybe a pair of rubber boats and a small rubber dingy(boat) would be nice to invest in.

[@VolV8]

Silver soldering for brass-to-brass. Get a beefy servo for high resistance in water. Gumboots.

[@svennykennyheller6332]

Excellent Idea

[@axelusul]

Great work, need to improve on "winging it" and look at areas where you could efficiently make the structure stronger and more homogeneous for V2.

[@miguelsalami]

Ya what VolV8 said👍👍

[@Wolfenion]

I always liked these kind of boats. Built a large one myself years ago with multiple coaxial motors (two sets). In my opinion, you should not mess with your original design in order to get it to skim on the water. When you increase your throttle further, you will have a tendency for the rear to want to lift out from the water due to your motor being mounted horizontally (parallel to your hull). The motor will induce a substantial torque on your frame, something you will experience once you open up the throttle. Looking forward to see where this goes. ; )

[@MorningView]

Nose weight

[@larryjones5388]

I believe by installing two smaller pontoons on the rear of the boat will enhance the performance

[@thomasmills6789]

James I appreciate your honesty and how genuine your videos are, I can see how nervous and excited you are each time you test something for the first time. I know exactly how you feel, when you rushed the last part of something complicated and when it starts going a little wrong you just want to go ahead and keep trying anyway! Crashed quite a few experimental RC planes that way. Anyway, thank you for the beautiful filming, editing, and workmanship. Love the use of the laser cutter. So much more professional-looking afterward than 3D printing although everything has limitations and uses. Looking forward to part 2!

[@iforce2d]

Cool project! My thoughts.... - place the motors side by side to avoid efficiency losses - place motors as low as possible to have thrust line more in line with CoM (reduce pushing nose down) - place motors as rearward as possible (same reason as above, plus counterweights the nose being pushed down) - move sponsons forward so that less of the torque due to thrust goes into pushing them downward - use aero rudder and maybe even elevator to trim for desired pitch, if you get anywhere near 100mph these will become quite effective (not sure if this is against the rules though...) - maybe widen rear skid? - maybe rotate sponsons (pitch) a bit so that the angle between their bottom surface and the water is as shallow as possible at the target speed - the further rear-ward the in-water rudder can be placed, the more effective it will be for the same drag You mentioned in a comment that you wanted a pair of CW/CCW props, but I doubt it will matter. It doesn't even matter much on a plane which has no (relatively) solid water surface to steady itself against. Just use two-bladed props of the highest pitch you have available. Regarding weight distribution, I pondered this a bit and it seems to me that you probably want to have equal 'loading' (g/cm2) for each of the three support points. But I don't know for sure, and it would be near impossible to ensure you're getting this at the target speed anyway. That concludes todays know-it-all lecture :)

[@steviebee1989]

Isn’t it more efficient to have a push and a pull prop? The Mars helicopter is using in-line props and the fastest propeller plane in WWII was a late German design that had a pull prop at the front and a push propeller at the rear.

[@iforce2d]

@@steviebee1989 nope, at least not when they are close together. I think the props on the DO335 were far apart enough that being inline with each other would not be such an issue, plus they weren't particularly concerned with efficiency. Mars helicopter is probably subject to a whole bunch of constraints which steered them to that format, notably the extremely thin atmosphere which requires as much blade area as possible, with smaller blades (eg. a quadro-copter) being ineffective.

[@socialus5689]

Oh shit you're here! Lovely content you make as well, New zealander.

[@KnowledgePerformance7]

Some quick reads say that contra rotation provides between 6% and 16% more efficiency than normal propellers. You also can get more thrust by using them as a "staged accelerator" by using a high pitch second prop

[@Project-Air]

Tune into the next one for upgrades and speed! 😁 Mega thanks again to my Patreons for helping me with the funds to build this bad boi. www.patreon.com/jameswhomsley 🤟 Don't worry rocket and aircraft fans, I have a few smaller projects going on in the background I'm plan on scattering alongside this speed boat mini series. Thanks for watching!

[@felixleveille8441]

The pontoons would be even more efficient if the underside was like a V-hull shape.... there would be even less friction on the water 👍 I really don’t know if it would work but it is just an idea! Great work on the build 🤙

[@Project-Air]

@@felixleveille8441 Thanks! I'm going to be adding planing shoes that are angled to a point. ☺️

[@suhelsheth4621]

Im a 40 year old Father of 3 my eldest son is 10 and im showing him your video so he too can learn something and be inspired . You have good manners and i respect the fact you show your failures as well as your success Keep up the good work

[@zadraking]

Project Air is the type of guy to always lose his rudder.

[@ruuman]

That was great, good choice on colour, the bluebirds speed records motivated so many people into engineering. I think it's a fine tribute to Donald!

[@caiuswongminzhesvps4750]

if you are making a mark two of this,i suggest using the 'ground effect'.

[@yayayayya4731]

You can add 2 rudders instead of 1....it will make it more manoeuvrable........and yeah, making the tail skid larger is a good idea...but don't make it too large...instead make the entire thing a little( JUST A LITTLE) nose heavy..... And if you want to use servos to steer the rudder, get powerful ones....cause at high speeds in water, small servos may not work.... And one more thing...I love your videos😄😄😄😄😄

[@Hraesvelgr44]

Would you be able to go faster if you made most of the hull out of waterproof aircraft foamboard? Like the foamboard that Flite Test uses? It would make it much lighter, meaning more speed

[@WindThrusters]

I have often thought that Campbells Blue bird should have had a horizontal air stabiliser near the stern. Just as aircraft do. The problem was that it took off because it did not have aerodynamic stability like an aircraft. Although in your case the high thrust line serves to keep the nose down. What about if the thrust is reduced at high speed? Could the same happen here as happened to Campbell? Does not having all that weight and pressure from the floats ahead of the centre of gravity make it unstable if it leaves the water? Enough horizontal stabilisation behind the cg would make if fly like and arrow if it left the water instead of becoming unstable.

[@rondavison8475]

Why not build the skids so they have less drag when tgoing fast and up off water, and more at lower speeds? mind jumps to vortex generators. Just simple triangles and then add shark fin curve, with more curviture and area at base tapering down to curved triangle tip, it could transition to flat then the flat would taper in from sides. a longer profile vs air will be needed also.

[@bob2859]

Hey James, make sure your props are made for max thrust at cruise speed, not max static thrust. It looks like yours are a relatively low pitch; you might want to switch to higher pitch props. You could even put a helicopter tail rotor mechanism on there for variable pitch! :D Edit: Also do seriously consider differential thrust for "rudder". Not dragging a surface under the water should help tremendously at high speeds.

[@TrentPierceProjects]

You could drastically improve performance by shaping the main hull instead of leaving it as a semicircle. Love the videos. Can't wait to see the next update on it

[@Rowan.Albright]

Wow! That's really impressive! Your projects are always so cool!

[@davecooper5951]

I think I would add a rear aerofoil. Variable incidence, and possibly gyro stabilised by the on-board RC system. (You can use a cheap one of these from a small quad 'copter). As the speed builds, and the trim changes, you could 'fine-tune' the trim from the transmitter. Well done, and keep up the good work. Britain needs young experimental engineers like you...

[@spacebeans4985]

I always love rc type channels

[@droneys1348]

Wow this guy, he is amazing, for me it was a massive achievement that i got a drone to fly first time, and this guy is out here beating world records, recreateing dam busters, making cool stuff, awesome. 😀

[@Marcellus74]

Great project and great video ! One little thing, your trailing edges are round on the side floats and the round belly of your main fuselage will not help break the water tension, it will keep being sucked by the water by negative pressure just like a venturi effect. Take a look at some real (vs RC) seaplane floats like the Piper J3 or else, side edges and trailing edge are straight and sharp. Just my 2cts as I struggled with the same matter designing my own RC seaplane floats a few years ago. Keep it up, always loved your channel :)

[@HardwareMaker]

Was thinking to convert a rc car to a rc boat and was wondering how to make it really fast and then saw this video and now I know exactly how to do it! Thanks :)

[@_Piers_]

I wonder if it would be possible to use a gyro/flight controller to stop the boat flipping if it started to pitch to far. I don't know if dialing back the power on the motors would help at that point or if it would already be too late.

[@koalatails6391]

A heavy duty servo for the rudder is needed & move the rudder to the centre behind the skeg. The skeg should be shaped to a symmetrical aero foil. This should eliminate drag without compromising efficiency. Great project! 👍

[@MD80phreak]

Only those who have driven an air / fan boats know how it feels. Love the feeling they are so special to handle! I've built two, but not this big. I think you're right, this one has alot of potential!

[@Project-Air]

Thanks!

[@Lecandotnet]

Can you attach the nylon string ( fishing line) to the back for easy and safely pull it back?

[@sahadewtamang2303]

Nice brother👍👍👍

[@gressytrey]

i dont care how old these videos are they are all so good

[@markvickroy6725]

What is with the propeller setup? Would you not get more overall thrust if you place them facing the same direction, one to the left and one to the right of Center? I would think as is there would be a lot of thrust cancellation because of interference with the propellers being so close together in a push-pull configuration. This is just me thinking here, mind you. Most of the few airplanes that have tractor and pusher propeller setups have the propellers at opposite ends of the device not directly back-to-back.

[@jwestleywilson271]

Have you considered the weight of the battery placement and your planeing issue? Maybe as on aircraft, a CG point could be looked into to help get on plane faster.

[@meyerflitedesign]

Great project James! Considering the speed record edf would be a better choise as you get far more airspeed with them. Also you will probably have some issues with water splashing into the props and slowing them down

[@electronics-by-practice]

Hi nice video , if you put one propeller on the left side and the other on the right side you can eliminate the boat rudder and seal the bottom .

[@georgevprochazka5316]

I believe you need a rear skid (flat bottom with a slight "ramp" angle ) sloping down towards the back. This way you'll get the aft out of the water @ speeds.

[@HeyHeyHarmonicaLuke]

Could you have a weight inside that can be remotely moved back and forth towards the front, to pull the nose back down as it starts taking off? Could this be automated by some sort of vertical height accelerometer?

[@sgtmajjackhawkins7887]

This reminds me of the PBRs we use to take up the Mekong. I sold the parts for scrap after the war and used it to start my very own tomato empire

[@moletrap2640]

Great project. My gut says your propeller stalk is set too far behind the CG and you're probably going to have to move it forward a bit. Your motor is very powerful (for top speed) and maybe pushing the rear end down way too hard?

[@robinyilmaz1155]

Why does it even need all that volume, like the fuselage and side pylons? Couldn't they just be flat pieces without all the extra volume that doesn't appear to do much?

[@Project-Air]

Buoyancy and stability mostly, and scope for it to be upgraded with alternative power systems. Also because I wanted it to be big.

[@hooptydoo417]

When are you going to learn to bring a recovery boat?

[@yucannthahvitt]

When he builds a boat that actually works he might have a recovery boat

[@Project-Air]

Built a rescue boat (that works, checkout my Dambusters video) but it’s out of action right now. Also got a manned boat for actual tests.

[@abdulkader5470]

It's a lot heavy boat. It have to be lighter. The floats have to be a little bit front. You need more thrust for this size of boat. Keep it up.

[@jachinluttrell9404]

Noice, very good design, but I think that having the propulsion set above the centre of mass is the biggest set back for models like these, I think if you can change the centre of thrust and have it only very slightly above the centre of mass would make it work much better, like the jet boat you show in the video would help, I know it helps how the boat works but at speeds your trying to get to you can use aerodynamics to help lift and/or push the boat into the water... yes it’s complicated and probably impossible with props and the model being at this scale but just a thought...

[@jachinluttrell9404]

P.S - any one sceptical of my theory just understand that I’m still in high school and that I have a limited knowledge of aerodynamics etc. and this is just how it makes sense in my head.

[@jachinluttrell9404]

P.P.S - I dabble in 3D modelling so if you want suggestions of reworked designs and they are actually feasible the I’d be happy to send some to you James... plus I’m bored so I want something to do...

[@Project-Air]

@@jachinluttrell9404 If you're bored, try making something of your own!

[@jachinluttrell9404]

ProjectAir Well I’d love too, this would be my hobby of all hobby’s but the only problem is that I don’t have an appropriate work space to do it in. Also, after actually getting some sleep I now realise that some of my reasoning was wrong, but this point still stands, have something like an EDF, I have a 3D model that I made on standby (not 3D printable, just the exterior idea and will be annotated) to show what I’m thinking, more boat shaped hull and room for an EDF.

[@christopping5876]

Don't stop developing it. Great potential.

[@srck4035]

Just in Case you dont already know after a year .When printing in vase Mode you can manipulate the Wall thickness by flow rate .Im printing some airplane parts with a 0.4mm nozzle in vase Mode at 200 percent flow which gives me 0.8mm Walls . This works very good and prints with 50mms . You need to Up the temp in My Case 235 for Pla . If you Print even hotter or slower or with a Higher nozzle you can get even thicker Walls.

[@MCsCreations]

Pretty fantastic work, James! 😃 Looking forward to the the improvements! 😃 Stay safe there! 🖖😊

[@jesseadler3431]

You deserve more subscribers. Your projects are awesome!

[@Project-Air]

Thank you ☺️

[@slidewaze]

Couldn't agree more.

[@Tom-jd1rm]

needs more lift in the back to push down the front?

[@abdallah.alammar]

I am not getting it! why the motors on the sam line? does those 2 motors push in the same direction or each is opposite to the other one?

[@robertosfield]

With two props could you not mount them side by side and use differential thrust for directional control? Side by side would also provide better efficiency than inline.

[@euphplayer6941]

Robert Osfield Side by side works when there is a greater distance between the to create a moment of turning. But side by side is probably better for efficiency. Even the unlimited class hydroplanes have water rudders.

[@griffinballfish]

can you please tell me where you get your rocket engine firecrackers from I have got inspiration from your videos to make something myself, but I can't find any rocket engine firecrackers?

[@olliefoxx7165]

I love these types of builds. Wouldn't it be cool to have a real life version?

[@robertwoodliff2536]

Nice work. Paint finish / rattle can..........finish is improved by warming up the surface, hair drier rather hot air gun ( ie lower temperature ), and heating the paint can ( i used to do it by putting the can in a just boiled kettle , but heard that these cans can be quite explosive , even when dropped.......but heat does help move and mix the paint ) ends up giving a better finish .

[@joshuaianbetito5330]

You should for an engineering company bro. Your contents are legit. You are underrated, you deserve more. God Bless you always

[@huskedworkz1766]

What kind of epoxy do you use? im also building rc boats but dont know what proper adhesives should i use

[@TheScottsawesomeart]

all epoxys r water safe

[@Project-Air]

Just some sort of Deluxe Materials 5 min epoxy would do you. :)

[@huskedworkz1766]

@@TheScottsawesomeart what do you guys use?

[@huskedworkz1766]

@@Project-Air thanks man👍

[@arfyness]

Really looking forward to seeing what you do next! I agree with some others here - you'll want a stronger servo and maybe dual rudders. (I'd love to know how much control you'd have with the one that scarpered. My intuition is it might have you wanting for rudder authority.) Simpler than dual rudders, an L shaped one extending father backward would provide more authority without going terribly deep to snag on things.

[@tritowns]

Make sure the edges where the boat comes up on plane sharp. Rounded edges create suction

[@ARandomTroll]

bigger tail skid, dual rudder- one in water, one in the prop wash (maneuverability at low speeds), and try vase mode with a fat nozzle (say .8 at .2-.4mm layer height)

[@landene8230]

If you were to put small rollers or wheels on the skids would it caused less friction

[@alisioardiona727]

Great video ! You should put a cone at the rear to reduce drag

[@theadventuresofshellyandfr5618]

Great job! love the blue bird. You will need a quarter scale steering servo for a hydroplane that size and put it inside the hull where it stays dry. use a waterproof boot and run a 440 rod to the rudder. Don’t ever swim after a boat without a lifejacket. I use a small rc retrieval boat with a fishing line attached to retrieve most of my dead boats. hardly ever need to use a rowboat. Keep up the good work brother!

[@ruedogs]

Would a flat underside not ride better and with less resistance than a rounded one? Great project cant wait to see your progress

[@williamscoggin1509]

Maybe add a small shallow fixed position fan to the bottom of the left and right pontoon would greatly help your steering.

[@MPRCBBRR]

Did you consider an air rudder? That would improve low speed steering without the need for a large (draggy) water rudder....

[@hippazoid]

Here’s a crazy idea: What would motor torque differential (yaw on a quad) give you? Could it affect your turning authority by digging a pontoon (/planing the other side) in the water? Love all of your experimentation. Keep up the good work. 😁

[@Project-Air]

Interesting idea! Thanks for watching :)

[@OzAndyify]

Where is the COG supposed to be for a 3 point hydrofoil? It looked a tad tail heavy. Also wondering if aero-rudder would be better. Less chance of snagging weed and maybe even less drag. Looking forward to the high speed runs!

[@1grizzlyrizzo]

Looks really nice, and fast. I'd seal up that nose and go for a top hatch though, one knock to the nose and it'll just fill up. Also look out for twisting on the floats, as an isolation could rip it apart.

[@Project-Air]

Agreed. Might be doing some sort of mod to the nose to secure it better in the meantime and also put enough 2L drinks bottles full of air in the hull as a backup just in case something goes seriously wrong!

[@Graybear78]

Good concept! I liked the endeavor. A couple of suggestions, if I may? Perhaps an air rudder instead of a water rudder. A bit more drag in the air, but less drag in the water would more than balance out. Perhaps rounded sponsons would lessen drag by rising out of the water as water pressure on the sponson increases the faster you go, including the rear sponson. Keep going with your work. Is there a continued video? Thanks.

[@JadeEyedWolf]

For the rear skid, you might be able to achieve the same effect as the thrust angle vectoring you mentioned you had hoped to do with the props earlier. If the skid had a pivot point on the rear of the hull, you could control the pitch angle of the craft with a servo control.

[@BlueAntec]

I know nothing about this and may have a flawed idea but what if you used blades like on an air boat? This in theory would allow you to steer the boat and/or control the trim of the airflow behind the propellers.

[@girrrrrrr2]

I've always wondered/wanted to have creators put up the cost of projects like this, for a couple reasons to show that you don't have to be rich to have fun, and my own pure curiosity of how much this stuff is to make.

[@girrrrrrr2]

Also would ducting the fans help? That or in some slicers you can use infill modifiers to change how the infill is laid out. I only mention this because you could in theory make the bottom more infill and then have the top less so it's lighter and has a lower CG

[@OleZ900]

Wich laser cutter do you use for the woodwork?

[@creativeplus2315]

you are so good to make this video, i like it so much

[@NeoFrontierTechnologies]

Would putting the rudder in the airflow behind the motors not work better ? 🤔( more like an airplane kinda )

[@gryfandjane]

I’m excited about this one! It looks to have amazing potential once the glitches are worked out, and it certainly has that legendary Bluebird vibe about it. Are you going to try for the record at Coniston? Seems only fitting. ;-) Ah well, back to moping about the lack of Flite Fest...

[@Project-Air]

Was planning on going to Coniston this weekend but the boat isn't ready and the weather is going to be poor. Sometime maybe in the next month or so though!

[@evangangster5808]

0 Dislikes and 95 Likes This...does put a smile on my face

[@waynegilchrist1596]

Good job of engineering but I wonder if you might take a different tack on your steerage. Twin props in a side by side configuration instead of a tandem. This would allow a highly manuverable ship and possibly eliminate the rudder altogether. I know it might alter the performance and possibly cost you some speed but what's to prevent a side by side version of the tandem props you have? I may be all wet but I thought it worth a mention. Not being critical! Just hopefully broadening your horizons.

[@fk319fk]

The first video I have seen of yours. I like your style. I have concerns about the general size and shape, but that is yours and you are working through it. You made a design choice of one propeller feeding the second, I do not see the advantage of them being inline as opposed to parallel to each other. Could you take the time to go over that design choice in a future video?

[@cadensager1187]

I've never seen ur vids but 1:00 minute in I already want more. Keep going strong

[@Project-Air]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@sanches2]

Same here, just sub'ed

[@remkojerphanion4686]

Me thinks the sponsons are too big and heavy, they don't need to be that tall mate. It is a fun project, and I can't wait to see how it unfolds, good luck!

[@TheMarklongboard]

the planing hull, center hull should not have a taper up as it acts as an up elevator/aileron but a straight line. you can taper the above waterline though.

[@BABALOOEY46]

Shouldn’t the floats be an aerofoil shape? Can you stick a rocket on it? Air rudder?

[@taattataattataattata]

Wow! I love ur technique. Simple sturdy

[@jimmycreek]

Maybe have ride plates on the back of the front skids, lots of race boats have plates that are manually adjusted to balance the craft at full cook. Also this looks really cool and stay safe

[@spodfpv5930]

This is the first time I’m seeing one of your videos, and I’m definitely going to look out for more! Do you mind if I ask how you kept the balsa wood in place as the skin of the floats? Thanks!

[@Project-Air]

Just more super glue! 😊 Thanks for watching

[@spodfpv5930]

ProjectAir awesome, thank you!

[@thomasvanmierlo6481]

Crazy big. Looks awesome!!

[@Damdaved]

Underrated asf!

[@ericmeehan298]

Really cool project! I hope you can break that record. Regarding suggestions, did you take into account the center of gravity once all of the batteries and components are added? It looked like the tail was heavier once you added the electronics, maybe that is pulling the back down further.

[@Project-Air]

I agree that’s the CG is a bit off. I’m going to be doing some experimentation with shifting the heavier 6s batteries around next time 🙂👍 Thanks for watching

[@my_dear_friend_]

I am not sure if I would rely on a rudder in the water for a high speed boat that is designed to contact the water as little as possible. Ultimately those things are airplanes that almost fly. Rudder in air?

[@Mad.Man.Marine]

Great video man. That back ride plate looks like it’s pretty steeply angled. May want to round it a little so the approach angle is better.

[@jimefflandt9609]

I really enjoyed your video and all the work you put into your boat. It takes lots of trials but you will get it. Hang in there.

[@harveyjennings8301]

You could get some adjustment by moving the motor assembly up and down on the vertical motor spar.

[@Rick-du6xq]

I still dont understand how you only have 30K subs, you deserve so much more man

[@DeliciousDeBlair]

Why did you not use a ducted fan model thruster?

[@OdeeOz]

Gosh, I remember back in 1968, building an Swamp/Air Boat powered by .049 gas engine. Dad was mad when I used it to flush Geese for the holiday table, because it worked so well, and he hadn't thought of it first. LOLS

[@RoroBar-k8e]

Hi, may be two rudder : One on each float ?

[@john-r-edge]

Great vids. Small ask/suggestion. Please arrange playlists so that when it is played the vids come out in correct viewing order - part 1, part 2, etc.

[@pixelavro451]

your channel is so professional and you deserve way more subs! nice scenery too. keep up the good work

[@Project-Air]

Thank you!

[@lexxynubbers]

Just a sugestion - if the sponsons were V or U shaped instead of flat, would that reduce the width in contact with water, and hence drag as they rise up? I have no idea about how to calculate drag for hydroplanes , but other craft that rely on planing seem to have non-flat hulls. Edit - now that i think about it, U, and V shaped hulls are probably as much about stability, but my main point still stands.

[@jonnyBgood3]

Simple recovery boat, magnetic attachment arm possibly.Maybe recovery drone.

[@sanches2]

As you suggested - subscribed and liked;) i had the same experience not waiting for the epoxy to cure completely and rushing my airboat to a lake... how do you manage impatience ( when glueing, painting and such) ?

[@mjproebstle]

excellent build!! would suggest using 2 bladed props. more efficient/more thrust than a 3 bladed prop carry on then!

[@Project-Air]

Thanks! Absolutely. Unfortunately the only suitable props I could find were these. I had to find a CW 16" prop and a CCW 16" prop. I'll have another look for some soon and compare them to the 3 blades!