Cargo Trailer Water Heater - INSTANT HOT WATER

[@jmstew642]

I started with a tankless water heater and went with a conventional rv hot water tank (dometic) 5gal. It is simple and runs automatically. When on it uses 1amp of 12v and propane. I got the model that also has 120v element... for plug in at camp sites w/electric. Very simple, very reliable system like a house has...

[@174iceman]

# 1 - you really need the water heater that meant to take a flue pipe # 2 - flue pipe must be double walled pipe to eliminate outside of pipe being too hot # 3 - shower and sink really need to be double water valve faucets meaning shut off for cold and hot water. because you can run hot water valve wide-open so heater stays on if water is too hot open cold water to cool off the hot water valve needs to stay fully open and hot water heater will not shut off hope that helps

[@amschind]

I had one other comment that was more immediately useful: the failure point that I could see is the fan motors overheating and giving out. It looks like with the floor cutout, you have a sufficient natural draft such that you would be fine either way, but you might shine an IR thermometer on the fan hubs while the hot water is running and maybe plan on changing them out at intervals (they're pretty cheap as is).

[@GrillinandChillinwithColeman]

Would hooking up a separate water pump and pressure tank to a dedicated line from the water tank to the HW heater work? That way one pump does not have to do the work for both the hot and cold water. They will work independently of each other.

[@ronb6182]

I have the same heater and I installed mine outside. Since I don't use the hot water spigot on my washing machine I am using that to back feed hot water to the rest of the house. I put a Y on the cold side to hook both the washing machine and water heater on the same spigot. The hot input on the washing machine is plugged. This hookup is good during and after a hurricane when no electricity is available. Since I have city water I can take a hot shower. The hangover from the roof keeps the rain out of the top of the water heater. The hoses are run outside beside the window AC unit. To do a more permanent install I would drill through the block. Also I use the washing machine hoses for hook up. I had too many supply lines burst. 73

[@wrxs1781]

Good video, and how long does a small propane tank power the heater?. Also you can buy outside hang on the tree units with a pump for hot water using a 5 gal pail, we had one at our camp "Coleman product", twenty years ago. Anyway I enjoy your trials and tribulations.

[@amschind]

This is a huge issue that I'm struggling with as well. My current plan is a 7.2 kW Bosch electric tankless. I will have a 10 kW inverter and a battery bank that can push 9.6 kW continuous, so I can technically run the hot water alongside the AC without overloading the inverter or batteries. My worry is that the water heater will be overwhelmingly the biggest current draw that I have, about 2x a dual burner induction cooktop running full bore. The issue that arises is not just potential overload of the inverter/batteries (both of which have the surge capacity to handle it barring deliberate misuse), but of the pretty profound mismatch between hot water demand and electricity supply as well as the massive energy penalty involved in turning electrons back into heat at a 1:1 exchange. The ideal solution for vans/caravans is a 6-16 gallon heat pump water heater, but right now the smallest that I can find is a 36 gallon behemoth from Rheem. The increased weight is an issue, but the huge benefits are 1) no propane and 2) the 3.5-4:1 return rate on heat for invested electrons is magnified by the corresponding reduction in battery weight (i.e. a tankless water heater requires battery storage of electrical energy in a 1:1 ratio for the hot water demanded unless you commit to only showering while you're on shore power or the sun is shining on your solar array). There is a youtube video of a guy making a DIY heat pump water heater from a mini-split, and while I applaud his gumption, I don't think that's ideal for an RV from a cost, weight, reliability, maintenance or efficiency standpoint. The best we can do right now is future proof and wait, which for me means preserving the space and electrical capacity for a heat pump tank water heater when it becomes availalbe. Thanks for the great content!

[@jenniferj7588]

If you made your cover for the top of your water heater 1/4 round to go out of your trailer it would of worked with out the fans because a square box on top would make the air come back in ... I have one in my home but one with round hole on top for stove pipe 4inch ...I do not use a fan and mine was 120$ and no carb alarm in 2 years just a 1/4 round stove pipe and a straight pipe for exaust with cover ..

[@paulstaf]

You are not stating the problem properly. The water heater comes on when the pressure DROPS below a certain point, that is how the water heater "knows" you are using the hot water. When you move the sink/shower lever to a colder setting, you restrict the flow of the hot water, the pressure builds, and the water heater shuts off. Those single handle water fixtures are your problem. The pressure from the cold water bleeds over to the hot water side shutting off the water heater. As an experiment, buy a cheap $10 bathroom fixture with two handles and temporarily plumb it and see if that fixes the problem.

[@diycargotrailer]

Yep that's exactly it! I should have used single handle faucets in the sink and the shower. I learned that after the fact.

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

I just took mine out; they are a pain in the butt! They are so hard to adjust in these short runs and always too damn hot. I put in a Bosch hot water heater mini tank, and man do I love it; you can adapt to any desired temp. The secret is to put it on a timer for the electrical part! I come to find out once I heat the water. I can have hot/ warm water all day long, and if I need more, just hit the timer again.

[@diycargotrailer]

That's a really cleaver idea. I am still in the "make it work camp" since I cut a dang hole in my trailer but I won't be surprised if I do that in the next year.

[@bigsid1984]

You should mount the heater outside on front of the camper. Had one mounted on the front my camper they made to be used outside. Help with heat displacement and monoxide.

[@steveschaefer5835]

How well does those little 1 pound tanks work? Do you find that you’re swapping those things out a lot thanks for the video by the way.

[@georgecoffman377]

I have a tankless in my house and the exhaust pipe that I had to purchase doesn’t come up at a 90’ angle but more of a 45’ and outside. It’s a little strange looking and expensive too but works and we also have separate valves on all faucets.

[@ZillaYT]

How much usage does that propane canister provide you? Also, why not just adjust the combined water temp you want, and then always use your fauces in the middle setting?

[@BTNomad]

Have you had any issues with it being too hot for those fans?

[@georgecoffman377]

A big part of the venting you should have come up and out at a angle to vent. Surprisingly gas vapor needs a venturing to remove exhaust vapors.

[@annagonzales4626]

What water pump did you use for it?

[@gerrycollins9409]

I wonder if a different type of faucet valve with separate valves for hot and cold would have solved your pressure issue. Essentially hot and cold would be mixed after the valves. I don’t know but I’m getting ready to install a similar type water heater in my conversion?

[@diycargotrailer]

I had some trouble finding one i liked. I should have sucked it up and went with one that wasn't as pretty tbh

[@opossumgrylls3275]

All that work... why didn't you just change the sink faucet to the type with two handles? There are propane water heaters rated for indoor use which have ducting outlets built in from the factory. The problem here was trying to make an outdoor unit work indoor. Instead buy an indoor unit. CO units generally aren't placed within 15' of heating appliances. One unit on your ceiling near your bed is more than sufficient. The problem is being so close to the heating unit, they have a tendency to go off more often (false positive).

[@jeremyruff7961]

I just turn off the propane if I don't need hot water. The igniter tics for a few seconds and then stops if no gas flow is detected. Then I can run water without heat. Turn on propane when ready to shower.

[@mykayaks1]

Nope I will not put the tankless hot water inside,it will definitely go inside of a metal box outside at the front of the trailer two hoses,1 for the sink and 1 for the shower.

[@ronb6182]

One problem you don't cover the bottom of the vent when using natural or propane gas. If you ever looked at a gas water hester's chimney you will see it's open on the bottom of the flu. It's the same on gas furnaces as well. I do like that vent. 73

[@littlebearctc]

Do you have the same hot/cold issue when the source of the water is city water rather than the pump from the tank?

[@diycargotrailer]

I do. Its because the cold water steals the pressure from the hot and the hot gets shut off.

[@bigrtexas89]

@@diycargotrailer you need seperate pumps one for full time cold line, and one for full time hot line

[@amythinks]

Been awhile. Did you guys abandon the course?

[@georgecoffman377]

One of your problem is the single handle water faucet. The hot water heater doesn’t work well with them , a two handle faucets are the best solution.

[@vernonholsey1449]

I want unlimited hot water 💧 run your fans and everything will go great 👍🏽

[@Scahla]

Man the gas looks like a pain.

[@diycargotrailer]

It is. Shouldn't have tried to reinvent the wheel yet here we are.

[@VELOPERS]

What a pain lol

[@diycargotrailer]

Tell me about it. Never thought hot water would be this time consuming lol