Controlling Model Railroad Switches with Arduinos!

[@CM-ARM]

Thanks for the support, my being a Cardiac patient. Thanks for your sharing of the information and the video, Chris

[@delurkor]

Thank you for this. I have a project to re-power a existing trolley car-barn that uses twin coil switch machines. The way they are mounted they cannot be replaced without ripping out the whole yard ladder. I was worried about the delay time, and your half second solution answered that question. I will be stealing.. err.. borrowing your code. Thank you again.

[@Ballinalower]

I am building a layout. I have installed Cobalt motors. They are like the Tortoise but a bit more compact. And each has a decoder built in. Simply install them then connect directly to the same wires that power the track, assign an address and control with the same DCC controller that runs the trains. Nothing could be simpler. I highly recommend the Cobalt motors to anyone using DCC.

[@keaganwright124]

Yes they are similar to SMAIL point motors(same company as the tortoise) I have been looking at the two and from the reviews on youtube the cobalt is smaller and cheaper but also louder than the tortoise.

[@Ballinalower]

@@keaganwright124 I have never heard a Tortoise but you can certainly hear a Cobalt.

[@TheTrainFreak]

Very interesting! Thanks for sharing Jimmy! - Jason

[@Reach41]

I did something nearly identical, but ran into a problem when the relay boards I used did not have optically isolated I/O as claimed. I had to add a diode across the output of each relay to handle the voltage spike caused by the solenoid fields collapsing. One other difference was in the time I allowed for switching, which was around 100ms.

[@jimkretzmer9193]

Very useful tutorial, especially for someone who has never installed turnout motors!

[@C52MYERS]

I know arduino is cool, but with Kato switching all you need is dpdt momentary switch and a wall wart a lot cheaper and easier. Just my two cents.

[@KatoOnTheTrack1]

If you manually want to switch them yes, this is a basis of automatic control. Some photo resisters to this application and the door is open to other opportunities on a layout

[@4everdc302]

Simplifying something that's black magic👍Will help MRRr's who want to do this. My conductors will still be stepping off&movin my caboose switches lol🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲

[@johnm8342]

I enjoy the videos... great! I have caboose switches, which I prefer. I am thinking of using piano wire connected from one side of the throw, to a sprung N/O N/C limit switch beneath. So, the switch is pressed when throw is in one of two positions. Looking at this video, I would need to add a resister (or incandescent light) for using the Arduino to sense when the switch is made, right?. I want to continue using the caboose switches, have the Arduino sense the change in switch position, and do more than just signals and lights, not sure what that is just yet. Would like to see more videos on the concept of using buttons and such. Thanks.

[@kenr86]

When you added the common wire to the snap switch, I saw a stray strand of wire running loose - I usually tin the stranded wire first, or use a crimp spade connector to avoid issues like that

[@gregtuggle14]

You don't need to do that. With 2 relays you can control 2 switches. With the relay unenergised, power will go out one of the outside screws on the back of the relay. When energised, the power will go out the OTHER screw. Had you put the green wire on the terminal next to the ground return, you'd have freed up the other relay for another switch. Much better since you're only using half the relays previously spec'd (unless you're a relay salesman!!).

[@brianpagemodeltrains]

Great tutorial Jimmy, thanks!

[@jamescraft672]

It would be interesting to see how you install the pushbuttons and the electronics for use on your railroad. I assume that the pushbuttons go on the fascia. Thanks.

[@Beliar275]

Not necessarily - you can use them and build a so called track diagram signal box - it shows a simplified trackplan - and on turn outs you mount the switches at the appropriate position at the point of the turn out in question. Although I dont like this single-action design .. 2 push buttons - one for straight, one for turned are easier to control. And when you use this signal box - make use of the feedback contacts of the switch machine

[@markarnold8160]

Haha you went a bit Elmer Fudd on one of those outtakes!

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

Like the video very much hope there more to come. Thank David.

[@jackboren431]

Q- Can you control multiple turnout motors using a single Arduino nano? If yes, how many?

[@jacobew2000]

You can, but you are limited to the number of digital i/o's on the arduino. So a nano has 14 digital i/o's. Each one you use for a switch, will reduce the outputs for a relay. So in theory, you could do 3 dual switch machines with relays (2 each) with 3 push buttons. I usually recommend mega's for this reason.

[@abdullahabu1252]

I like your show. I would like to know what kind equipment can be use whith slow machine switch turnout. Please advise me

[@microplumb]

Cool project, if it possible to add LED ont snap project! thanks

[@cadmaster44]

What's your thoughts on the new Digitrax DSXSV9 9G turnout motor, My understanding is that all you need to do is hook it to the main bus and give it an address and your golden.

[@gamepad3173]

I'll have to try this with Dead rail and see what kinds of results I get.

[@rwissbaum9849]

DO NOT solder wires direct to the Tortoise! It will work just fine, but it will be very difficult to unsolder and resolder the connections if you ever need to move the Tortoise. Buy a Tortoise Edge connector - there are several firms that offer them - and solder your wires to the edge connector. It is then a simple matter to unplug the edge connector and plug in a different one if you ever need to change out the connecting wires. (In addition, you can do your soldering above the layout instead of under it!) The Tortoise costs about $20; an edge connector costs about $3.

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

I can see that, but I have never had issues unsoldering wires from a tortoise and resoldering them.

[@rwissbaum9849]

@@DIYDigitalRailroad Perhaps I'm just clumsy: I can unsolder the wires just fine, but the solder clogs the holes, and they only way I've ever been able to clear the holes is to Drill them out. Maybe I'm just lazy...

[@jmi5969]

This isn't what I expected. How does your Arduino sense the incoming trains, so it can decide the direction of the switches? Sensing rail current? Reed relays? Lidars of IR guns? this sort of thing.

[@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad]

It doesn't. The arduino is only waiting for input from the button, and when it senses the button press, it actuates the switch. That's it.

[@brodiebill3083]

So I'm not to great with wiring and I'm having a hard time finding a diagram to help me out I'm looking to run 10 tortoise machines on my layout with toggle switches I'm not quite sure what I need and do you know of a diagram that shows me everything I need to know thanks

[@pticurina]

One question about N scale i can use for example kato trains on FLEISCHMANN or MiniTrix trains on PECO rail system since they are all running on DC power? Its not like in H0 scale where we have AC power on marklin?

[@pillaroftruth2830]

can this be setup for a tortoise switch machine be set up with a Loconet interface to the Arduino for JMRI or Traincontroller? If so, how would the Arduino sketch be changed to accommodate the interface and for use with more than one Tortoise switch machine?

[@rmsteutonic3686]

I still use manual switches as my DC layout is still under construction

[@roguerailroader4132]

This is cool but how about Peco point motors? Like the PL-10 or PL-15. I don’t know if they’re different electrically but I think they’re about the same.

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

So I have never used those motors but as far as I can tell, the PL-10 is a twin coil machine like what I showed here.

[@roguerailroader4132]

@@DIYDigitalRailroad So follow the directions for the snap switch type right?

[@wreckingball7]

@@roguerailroader4132 yes

[@shamiester]

How can I replace the push button with an IR sensor

[@scentgrasslakerailway]

Can the sketch from "Model Railroad Arduino Block Signal Upgraded!" (posted September 27, 2021) be incorporated with this sketch not only to operate switches but also to detect trains and control signals. Will the arduino's play together in a combined sketch? I guess I'd need more arduino's to operate the switch machines...?

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

Well this sounds like a video idea!

[@scentgrasslakerailway]

@@DIYDigitalRailroad Thanks, that would be fantastic! Your videos are always great at explaining 'how-to-do-it'.

[@scentgrasslakerailway]

Any luck as yet in terms of developing that video? If not, no problem just asking…

[@terrytaylor8866]

I have atlas snap switches, this is interesting but way over kill. DPDT switches is all that's needed.

[@jeffmonegal2766]

Hi - surely you are not leaving power connected to the snap action point motor coil after it moves the turnout. By using a relay power must be still connected after the motor moves the point. This will lead to coil burnout. Is this what you have done or have I missed something? Cheers Jeff

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

Hey Jeff. No the power leads to the relay are connected to the “normally open” sides of the relays and are disconnected unless activated. This is why you have to use 2 relays per turnout. One for briefly powering one coil and one for briefly powering the other coil. If the relays are in their default state, the relays sit in the “normally closed” position and keep the coils disconnected.

[@shon9kemp]

This my be a dumb question. I never messed with a Arduino uno thing but on the continuous closed could you run your signal lights off of that or not? I always did the dpdt momentary switch or manually threw the turnout

[@garycrumrine9538]

Wow, you do this for every turnout? I think I am going to take up fishing....

[@railbuilderdhd]

Can you connect this to DCC.

[@brendanpratt7760]

How would you do this with servos instead ?

[@gregorynicolson]

enjoyed vidio but could not find arduino prog i have been looking for this answer for a long time

[@mr.shadestrains6033]

Awesome 😎👍

[@dennisedgar3430]

Can you operate more than one turnout motor per Arduino?

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

Yes! As many motor drivers as you can hook up to the arduino. It just takes some code modifications.

[@CommentsAllowed]

I only cringed at 3:14. Can anyone guess why? LOL Though, I am very detail oriented. Your mileage may vary.

[@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204]

Good video

[@asquarewithtriangularprope3093]

PS, please dont say Amazon.

[@steamy1225]

Way to complicated for a snap switch motor. All you need is 12 volts, wires and 2 switches to snap it back an forth. Or one of the slide and push switch. Even for the tortoise, too many components. Needs to be simpler. Thats my opinion.

[@wild_lee_coyote]

The whole video is on using Arduinos for controlling switches, it’s in the title. Yes you can use simple DC power and switches, that what they were originally designed for. But you can’t do automated setups with all manual switches. That’s what Arduinos provide, a route for automation or computer control.

[@sushildamle3449]

Marvelous and easily explained. Instead of using 'Button', I thought of using 'Ultra Sound Sensor' along with 'Snap Switches'. Earlier I have done by using 'Servo Motor SG90' which can be viewed on KZbin (kzbin.info/www/bejne/hme8ipWeaZuqh8k). Could some one guide me the changes, I need to do in code (sketch) in this case (USS along with L298N and Snap Switch). I felt that fixing snap switch will be easy as compaired to servomotor. Thanks in advance for the guidance. With warm regards. Sushil Damle 28022023@1437 Hrs IN.