How to Master Track Laying on Modular Model Layouts

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

🚂🎉 Hey fellow model railroaders! 🎉🚂 If you’re enjoy the content and want to take your model railroad journey to the next level, consider becoming a patron on my Patreon page! As a special thank you, all patrons get early viewing to these tutorial videos and for the $7 patrons you’ll get exclusive access to a collection of FREE files from my website, including a collection of Australian panoramic photos perfect for layout backdrops, you’ll also be able to download the 3D STL files from my store as part of the $7 membership. 👉 Join me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/luketowan

[@brianmalaquias9425]

This is so good. Please post more model railroad videos.

[@lgrfbs]

Nice video, one tip: There are heat/cold weather tracks from Tillig (Article number 83139) that work very well.

[@readhistory2023]

I was wondering if you'd seen RFD Hobby's short video on miniature brick texture? I think it will interest you. It's a new solution for a old problem if you have a laser printer and a hair dryer.

[@mgamga9476]

Holy Crap. Finally building a layout. I knew you eventually would. With your model building talent it should come out awsome. Hope you do roads with magnarail. Best of luck, can't wait to see.

[@DoubleDowner]

I feel like this is what this channel has been leading up to, you building the ultimate railway with realistic scenery everywhere.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah it's what the channel was original created on, making a model railroad. It gradually morphed into a diorama channel but I'm turning it back into being model railroad focused 😉

[@DrWhom]

bc what could better than recreating the most depressing bits of Stralia in HO?

[@BeardClipper]

​@@BoulderCreekRailroad I was here for the original channel - I enjoyed the dioramas but dear god this is like coming home - I'm so pleased you're back to your roots!! Perfect timing for this as well as I'm just gathering myself to start building my dream layout :)

[@misterflibble6601]

It's nice to see the problems that cropped up and how you corrected them. Many tutorials neglect this important information.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah, I thought it would be good to learn from some of the mistakes I made.... Although I did cut out one mistake... I impaled my finger with a track joiner 😬 I cut it out from the video because there was a bit of blood and it was just a silly mistake on my part 😄

[@davecrosson5018]

Haha! I have done the same thing, ouch! Great video! This makes me want to abandon my rectangle layout and go modular!@@BoulderCreekRailroad

[@AustNRail]

What I like about your channel is that you don’t waste my time telling me what you’re about to do, as you tell me as you’re doing it. Other content creators ought to take note.

[@frankedgar6694]

That whole “Tell them what you’re going to teach. Teach it. Tell them what you taught them.” is annoying. That is the very basic rule that school teachers learn. As for school, add to that “Let’s go around the room and introduce ourselves.” I hated doing that too.

[@RowanTownModelRailway]

How to fill a large gap inbetween two bits of track is genius. I have a couple of those and this will work a treat.

[@tmfe1986]

This is basically what ASMR of track laying means, perfection to the max.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

lol, glad you've been enjoying the videos 😉

[@Silverwing2112]

Um... ASMR is an auditory thing. There's no sounds of the track being cut, arranged, or secured...

[@tmfe1986]

@@Silverwing2112 It's not just sounds! Visual stimulation may also provide ASMR feelings!

[@runklestiltskin_2407]

​@@Silverwing2112soft speaking is a trigger as well

[@philipbenson8644]

You say thanks for watching i say a massive thank you for teaching im always super impressed by your work

[@ashleyhamman]

It's so nice to give such a comprehensive look at the build process. I've been planning out my first sceneried layout, and I feel like most channels skip over very basic stuff like the expansion joints and showing where insulated joiners are getting placed.

[@Waleram1]

What would modeling world on KZbin be without you? Cold terrible cold. Cheers from Spain.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

lol, I definitely enjoy making these videos and I'm really happy that you enjoy watching them 😊

[@billgriffith8214]

The best instructional video I have every seen. Extremely well explained, AND in plain English. Spoken with clear empathetic language. Most instructional videos are delivered by well meaning but somewhat egotistical presenters. Not this one. It puts ME in the room and on the track

[@crazybattlegoose8872]

Everyday a Luke Towan video comes out is a good day :)

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

I'm glad you're still enjoying the videos 😉

[@The_Modeling_Underdog]

Watching Luke work his way through planning and building the layout is like watching MyMechanics restore some old piece of machinery or tool. Precise, to the point and with expert comment. I'm not even a railroad fan, but Luke is a great teacher for those of us into scale modeling and scenery.

[@switchpointproductions7927]

Can’t wait for the scenery section. With your skills it’s bound to be the best looking layout ever constructed.

[@KaidsTrains]

I can’t WAIT to see the layout when it’s done. With your skills, it will look amazing! Great video!

[@jasonmcnair7561]

Hi Luke, nice work so far. For cutting the gaps in the rail, try using a diamond cutting wheel instead - around 1/4 the thickness of a standard cutting wheel. If you cant find them, ask Antons Trains. A jewelers hacksaw will also yield great results with fine cuts instead of ugly gaps that need filling.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

oh that's a good idea? I tried using the thin cutting wheels from Dremel but they are so brittle and tend to shatter easily.

[@tonywincott8448]

Really Loving this series.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

thanks mate, I hope you enjoy following along 😊

[@alenaxp]

wow this will be my favorite KZbin build series EVER! Cant' wait for any future updates!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Glad you enjoy it! I'm already working on the next video 😉

[@dbbrs5295]

cant wait to see this project evolve

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

me too 😊 looking forward to testing some trains!

[@nyglover]

Luke I’m getting back into model railroad. Been watching your vids for quite awhile now. Always inspiring 😊. Keep em coming.

[@sylvaincostes7775]

Thank you for all those didacticts videos. On my club's new layout, at the last 2 cm of the modules, I replace cork by a same thickness PCB plate, screwed in the wood of the table. And I weld rails on the PCB with a brass spacer of the same thickness than the sleepers. It's discrete and very tough !

[@erwh1]

Another great video Luke, thanks! To avoid kinks with flexes in curves you can also offset the rail joints on the same track by at least 10 sleepers. This has worked pretty well for me.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks, yeah I do remember doing that a while ago on one of my earlier layouts. I figure soldering should hold it pretty well for this layout.

[@MickDownUnder]

@LukeTowan I find your modeling influence in so many layouts today including my own. Thank you for what you do bud.

[@WillJamesRailways]

Fantastic as always! A really great and helpful series!

[@duncanrhodes4778]

Best track laying video I have seen, thank you.

[@jimbates6227]

Mirror = Mark 1 Eyeball. (Tony Koester reference) I watch lots of model railroad videos and see plenty of kinks and wavey lines that could be reduced or eliminated by looking down the track, or with the mirror and you suggested. Good hint to use a mirror when the sightlines are restricted.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah it works so well, I actually picked that up from one of my model railroad buddies who's been building layouts longer than I've been alive! I wonder if he picked it up back in the day from someone like Tony?

[@tuckeyuk]

Very excited about this series!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Hope you enjoy the future videos, I'm definitely excited to see it come to life!

[@ironwolfusa]

Well done! I really like the way you explain things, it's easy to understand and follow through.

[@NicholassTrainChannel]

Excellent video Luke. Nice work with the track laying. it will be good to see trains running soon. Also the idea of filling the gap in the track is fantastic! I never thought of that myself.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks mate 😊 yeah I'm super excited to actually have a train run around the layout! Hopefully it won't be too far away.

[@derekalexander4030]

This was an excellent tutorial on track laying. Thank you very much for doing them.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

You're very welcome! Glad you found it helpful 😊

[@mikebrrnm]

Excellent work so far!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@breakingtoast2255]

same physics as the real size rail with expansion in summer and shrinkage in winter good video Luke 👍

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah, it's not usually a problem for small layouts but having a few gaps is still necessary 😉

[@FlyOz-b7b]

Clearest and best how toos on KZbin thanks for taking the trouble

[@leestevens7165]

Hey Luke, if Dremel and Gorilla Glue alone don't get around you, at least Auscision must give you some corporate love! I'm a lapsed 1990's Gunzel, but my primary hobby is automobiles. Your channel as well as Will James Railways are seriously tempting me to selling my unrestored XY Fairmont and 68 2A 88 and go full on into modeling! Your dioramas have been a must watch in my subscriptions, but this series on your model railway is as important to me as Project Binky by BOM or Home Built by Jeff's Alfarrari!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

lol... yeah I watch Will James all the time, he's got a really good thing going. Unfortunately I don't get any corporate love but I'd be happy for them to send some goodies!

[@onnomulder9775]

Great 'how to' Luke!! Thanks for sharing this video! Cheers Onno.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks Onno, glad you liked it 😊

[@timehunter9467]

This looks like it’s going to be amazing! The thin brown cut off disks give a much thinner cut but you need to be very careful (I snapped one) and if space is an issue I recommend the stylo+, I have one for very small jobs and details.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah I was using those thin brown cutting disc and I too broke a few, after that I just decided to use the carbo fibre disc. It's a bit thicker but the trains get over the gaps ok.

[@timehunter9467]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad Fair play! I snapped about 2 or 3 before I got through other stuff I was cutting. I do have a bigger dremel too with the same flexible drive thing, much more controllable for some cutting jobs.

[@Z4Zander]

There are super thin metal cut off discs around.I got a 2 sets of 3 different dia discs (15,20,25 mm).They are slightly thinner than the brown ones.Don't have the packets any longer so I don't know the make,but they are have a carbide or diamond dust coating at the outer edge.Haven't bent or broken any yet.

[@TheMrXtian]

Luke, thanks a lot for using your free time, to make it easier for absolute beginners, to enter the world of modeling...Christian, Berlin, Germany

[@grumbeast]

Damn, that mirror trick is pure genius

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah, I picked it up from a friend who's been building model train layouts for nearly 40 years!

[@DeanShirley818]

When doing a modular/sectional layout, place a piece of styrene the thickness of the cutoff disc between the sections while laying track. Then when you cut the track and remove the spacer the track will sit flush when sections are joined and mitigate gaps.

[@GwionRhysDavies]

Should have used ModelTech's Rail Aligners for the joints. The sleepers/ties are the correct width and height and they make sure your track stays aligned.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

they look great, and they look a bit better scaled for the code 75 track! Next time I'll have to try them 😉

[@johnland7318]

Your Pro Aligners are genius Gwion!!

[@grahamfrench9874]

Luke. Thanks for another top video. Some very handy, but simple, tips.

[@pixelfederationcom]

Fantastic idea with the push pins! Thanks for showing us even the fixes for the problems that arise during the construction. That's what makes this channel so special.

[@donaldlembo1263]

Looks great. Fantastic tips. Thank You.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

thanks mate, glad you enjoyed watching 😊

[@neilclarkwork]

I can’t wait to see it finished.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

me too! 😄

[@wynorawishum5860]

Great video. Very informative and helpful. Thank you. Have a great day

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mbwoods2001]

That what i did a few years ago laying cork for the trackbed, i cut 1 sheet into strips same width as the track, and on another sheet using the points to create patterns onto the cork and cutted out. Ive also did the same modifications to the points since i use DCC control.

[@valborchardt3596]

Thank you Luke.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

no worries 😉

[@krowven]

Great video Luke! You and @tomstanton look like twins! I think a cross over would be awesome! Maybe Tom can make an air piston train for your new railyard and use compressed air rolling stock to power it!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

ha ha yeah I enjoy his stuff as well, he's much more skilled than I am!

[@lachlangreen8389]

​@@BoulderCreekRailroaddon't put yourself down in that way! You are both equally talented 😀

[@MidtownSun]

Some good tips here - thanks Luke!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

no worries, glad you enjoyed the video 😉

[@michaelwhitham4501]

If there ever was a person I would have liked to see build a model railway it’s you,this is great pal 👌

[@modelrailfan37]

Great work Luke! I've tried using flex track myself and have never had any luck so I've always used set track, but after seeing this I feel far more confident now!

[@transitrail0930]

Excellent and full of top tips.

[@RodrigoSousaFerrovias]

Amazing video, very interesting, have a nice day!

[@andrewpalm2103]

An excellent tutorial, Luke, with numerous helpful tips (and good pacing and production values). I particularly liked it as I also used Peco Code 75 with 1/8 inch cork roadbed on my small layout. Cheers from Wisconsin (from a fellow redhead)!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

oh nice, I'm glad you enjoyed watching. I do like the look of the peco code 75 track. The turnouts look like they are well built and reliable as well. Should last quite a long time.

[@stephanienoire1892]

I enjoyed the video! Things i do not know what they are: -frog wires -sleeper ties (maybe they are not connected to the rails and thats why they are called sleeper?) -how its winter in the southern hemisphere, is it because we are far away from the sun or because the earth is tilted away or both? -do flat earthers believe in Australia?

[@dodgydioramas]

Love this project, I make dioramas but secretly want a model railway, just no space!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

true! that's a problem for a lot of model railroaders! I wish I had more space too 😎

[@EllenSalmon-o7x]

Where there is will, there is a way...

[@MCsCreations]

It's looking fantastic, Luke! 😃 Looking forward to the next part! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks! 😃 I'm really looking forward to running some trains!

[@davidlewis2615]

Looks great can’t wait for more. Quick question those DCC concept sleepers won’t they need to be cut down the centre to prevent short. You’ll probably show this in next episode.

[@djevo3441]

Amazing job my friend congratulations 👏👏👏👏

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thank you very much

[@chompette_]

I think a wise decision to use wood glue instead of track pins! When i started the track on my layout I noticed that the pins removed any sound dampening that the cork provided by giving a solid run to the board.

[@dexecuter18]

Another bit of insurance I would suggest with the joints, A few german modelers sink brass screws under the ends of the rails between modules and solder the PCB ties to them. It adds a bit of horizontal mechanical strength on to track ends that takes pressure off the glue joints if the ends of the rails snag while in transit.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

That's a really good idea, I actually tried soldering the rails directly to bass screws originally but I wasn't really happy with the look so I took them out and went with the PCB boards. I should have just cut them down and attached the PCB boards to them as you suggested!

[@dexecuter18]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad Not sure if its doable after the fact, but the vid I first saw the method. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJy1l62wrah7aZo

[@MsAznable]

I lost my Mom earlier this week, thank you for the perfect timing, Luke, it's given me something to forget the sadness a bit

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

that's sad to hear. I'm glad the videos are helping.

[@garyjust.johnson1436]

I have learned new things! Great video!

[@ODGColornChrome]

Awesome work!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@GaryFromIT]

I’m glad you are coming/remaking this project been waiting for ages

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

lol, yeah it's been a long time coming!

[@dvdw_graphics_crafts]

The bone structure looks epic; looking forward to the result ; )

[@lukasbieri]

Just found your channel, love the dioramas - but I‘m even more interested in model railroads, so I‘m incredibly excited about this series! :)

[@johnnyeveritt5695]

Greetings again and another suggestion : To improve solder flow and significantly reduce soldering-iron dwell-time when applying solder to the outside of the rail; simply scratch-up / rough-up the rail surface with a needle-file and see the benefit thereof .... I can only assume that maybe during production; some form of residual processing agent coats the rail preventing quick-time soldering. In closing; the use of a low-wattage soldering iron in an effort to prevent warpage and / or melting of the ties is entirely incorrect and counter-productive; possibly causing more damage and / or frustrating blobbing of the solder. Lakka and Cheers For Now 😁🚂

[@Mike__B]

Was going to say you should use heat sink clamps on your rails when soldering, wasn't thinking about expansion but also melting the plastic ties, tweezers work though maybe your 1-2-3 blocks would work as well

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

using the 1-2-3 blocks for heat sink is a great idea!

[@georgethomas7814]

This is Brilliant. I never thought you had a full Layout..

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah, it's been a long time coming 😎

[@TheMisterdan01]

Brilliant stuff Luke! Some great tips and tricks there! Cheers, Dan

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks Dan, I’m looking forward to actually having a train run!

[@TheMisterdan01]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad The best bit for sure!

[@047678]

Use a little bit of solder flux on the rail before soldering. It makes the solder take more quickly. Too much heat will also cause the copper to lift off the PCB board. Flux is sold at Jaycar and similar stores. It is an acid, so use care. Try not to inhale fumes.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks mate, i actually do use flux, I just didn't really highlight it in the video 😉 That's a good tip about lifting the copper off the PCB, I didn't know that could happen but I'll make sure to watch out for it!

[@MASI_forging]

It's amazing to watch. 👍👍

[@lachlangreen8389]

Ooh very nice. PECO 75 is also my track of choice! Those small yellow pliers from Jaycar are great also, I have a set in almost every room of my house 😂 Your soldering technique could do with some improving, I would recommend flux as a necessity. Applying prior to heat then solder.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

lol, yep soldering is not one of my strong points 😄

[@pjm329]

Very nice work.

[@MartFord]

You know it's a good day when it's Towansday!

[@TheSonofruss]

I have been sending people to the channel when they ask about things that you have tackled in your videos

[@davidcurrie8429]

Hi Luke, A very interesting video with many great tips, I have a tip for joints on flexi track on curves, if I have to join flexi track on a curve I will slide off about 6 inches if sleepers and force a curve into the flexi track, you may have to cut an inch off as it's difficult to get the curve to the end of the track. Regards, David.

[@patriksiegfried5050]

c'est cool, on a vraiment tous les même techniques pour fixer nos rails...

[@bernardgoodens681]

Nice job!

[@joshroten3997]

Good, helpful tips.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Glad it was helpful!

[@BillHawk-oh9yi]

Why the PCB ties at the joints? Not sure that that was explained? Great tutorial!

[@molitovv]

I reckon you could 3d print a small section of sleepers with notches to put in place instead of grinding away on the existing ones

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

That's a great idea! I can't believe I didn't think of it 😄

[@barkonious]

When I was building my layout I put a layer of a material called homeasode which helps a lot with noise even with cork

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah, I have a friend that uses homasote... I didn't even think of it! I heard you need to seal it pretty well though because it can expand if it gets damp.

[@jellysam]

As someone who works for sydney trains this is awesome

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks mate, glad you liked it 😉

[@fladder1]

When I’m laying track i use a wood stapler, and push the staples in far enough that i can use the peco tracksettas and rolling stock to test and adjust. After that I’ ll either use a bit of dilluted woodglue, or just ballast the track. And after finishing i just pull the staples out.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

That's a great idea as well 😉 So many good tips in these comments. Thank you

[@donward7531]

Thanks for this video. Good to see I started correctly. Now, I have been toying with the idea of changing all over to DCC. Do you have any videos that explain DCC in its entirety? I don't know the first thing about DCC but would like to soak up every bit of info I can... I have over 50 Locos but not all are powered unit, most are. I'd like to know how to and cost info. I would be nice to operate more than two trains at a time (with help).

[@salmanbaloch2858]

Superb 🚂🚂🚂🚂

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Many thanks!

[@HornetVF103]

You should try hand-laying some of your own rail as it will yield a more realistic tie arrangement and you appear to have the skills for this next step. I myself, also hand lay my own turnouts but that is a more time consuming process and not for everyone.

[@froppygirl994]

This is turning out so cool

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

yeah, I can't wait to get the trains running!

[@therhm46]

Enjoying your video from Pakistan. Please make realistic cricket stadium

[@charlesyonk4315]

Thanks!

[@andriyanCraft]

It's very awesome, I guest it's very expensive to build like that 😅😅

[@bikinmainan1789]

Amazing

[@PaulSmith-pl7fo]

Hi Luke. Excellent instructional video. Just out of curiosity, why did you drill holes for the frog wires next to the track and not in the centre of the track?

[@bruceames6332]

Luke, this is a great learning video. Long time Fan of You're video's !!!! However, I model in N Scale, smaller rails and ties. Is there away to use this technique on my layout with tighter radius curves, such as 9 3/4" to 11". Without stressing my turnouts using Peco turnouts #6's on a cork on top of styrene foam board ? Without damaging styrene ? A specific glue to use fastening everything down? Bruce in Minnesota

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

These tips should work just the same in smaller scale. I don't think you'll have any issues with stressing the turnout. I built an N scale layout years ago with tight radius and mostly used the same techniques without any problems 😉

[@bruceames6332]

@LukeTowan Thank You for your responses. I will definitely try this technique. I have just about completed my bench work. Want to try to create a backdrop next. Then the technique you described. Love your creativity very much and thank you for putting it out there for ALL to enjoy. Cheers, Bruce in Minnesota

[@just_in_key]

U should build an entire miniature museum 🤩

[@Th0rZ666]

nice one Australian Chuck Norris, cant wait to see how this progresses !

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks 👍 I'm super excited to get trains running!

[@patrickpeake3935]

Have you thought of using set track for really tight curves? You could use flexi track as a transition

[@trainOholic]

This looks great, but one thing id like to point out is if your soldering really close to super glue, it can release a really nasty vapor that is really not good to breath in

[@bradleybeauchamp5582]

I guess it depends on location being modeled and whether it is a main line a secondary or an industry siding, but It seems like 2.7mm is a bit low for average roadbed elevation as it only comes out to 9.25 inches in full scale. Normally I try to shoot for around 1ft - 3ft in roadbed elevation but I live in the USA and model eastern class 1 railways and class 3 where they most of the time have 2ft - 5ft of roadbed ballast under there rails.