DLE 55 RC Gas Engine Repair. Part 1 Disassembly

[@michaels8245]

First time I've changed the crank and bearings in my dle61. This video is perfect with it's step by step throughout the process. Made my first crank and bearing replacement easy, and engine runs like new again. Awesome video for anyone looking to do their own crank replacement. Well done!!

[@BPTVch]

Thank you!!

[@pilotsrc-aeromodelismo]

greetings great friend! I have a 61cc gp engine to change the crankshaft bearings, is the process the same? Do the bearings also have ball protection rings? thanks

[@richardabram4596]

great video , thank you one other viewer said not to beet the bearing out, which i i agree. i cringed a little However , i've never really had a problem with beating one out, if its on small tap on opposite side constantly. I may try freezing tho, ive never tried that Meaning , it becomes tedious, and is just better to heat the case.

[@ToolsAndI]

I clearly said on the video that I didn't like hammering in the bearings and that I'd prefer pressing them in but I was using what I had at hand.

[@richardabram4596]

Yes , i watched it

[@backgroundmusic250]

what is the diameter of the piston? he looks very big

[@AlissonCasagrandeGTR]

Good evening, I have a DLE 20cc with the same problem, what name do you give to it shaking between the crankshaft and the connecting rod? On the DLE 20cc engine is possible to change just the connecting rod or just crankshaft. I was thinking of changing only the crankshaft; but, do you think this is caused by wear in the needle bearing of the crankshaft or by the connecting rod, or both? In the dle 20cc the doing the repair is close to this one ? thanks

[@ToolsAndI]

***** Hi there. I don't know if there is a specific name for the shaking between the crankshaft and connecting rod. It is just knocking due to wear; now a small amount of this knocking is normal in many engines and it can be noticed on brand new never run engines. I did some research and it seems like you can replace any of the parts by themselves, meaning you can choose what to change. I think the the problem is caused by wear on the connecting rod, moreover if you have had any prop strikes which is very aggressive on the internal components of any engine. My suggestion is to change all the parts at once and play it safe. The biggest difference I see on the dle 20 is the hub which is a solid piece of aluminum without any grooves or holes. Taking it out may pose a challenge without the right tools. Regards and happy flying!

[@roymills415]

The slang for this play is called “slop”. Not all slop is bad. Some engineers design slop into mating parts for lubrication reasons. The excessive wear can be caused by many factors for examples dissimilar metals heating and contracting at different rates, unbalanced props, improper fuel Mixtures etc.

[@AlissonCasagrandeGTR]

@@roymills415 Thank you

[@tomememin]

At the end of your video where two crank shafts are compared,I have the same problem with the connection of conrod and crank shaft.After sucessfully replacing both of the bearings,the first time I started the engine I heard the same sound when engine is on the idle throttle,so now I have to diassemble the engine again and fix this but I don't know where to search for the parts,so can you direct me somewhere to search,a shop link on the internet,couldn't find it on ebay or hobby king...

[@ToolsAndI]

***** Here are a couple of links: www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDKRT&P=Zwww.valleyviewrc.com/estore/dle-55-crankshaft-w-connecting-rod.htmlwww.troybuiltmodels.com/items/DL55ENGINE.htmlIt seems like Tower is the only company who has it in stock right now.

[@JustMe-ml8mk]

U made a good film - Can you tell me how many hours there were on the engine that it had to be rebuilt

[@ToolsAndI]

+Just Me I bought it with a used plane therefore I can't really tell.

[@TheWarbird72]

very good video. But I I would never beat the bearings in a crankcase! freeze the bearings. heat the case they fall rite in. IMHO

[@ToolsAndI]

I clearly said on the video that I didn't like hammering in the bearings and that I'd prefer pressing them in but I was using what I had at hand.

[@Kraftei]

Absolutely agree, Ernie! If you can't beat them on the outer ring, you will probably damage them. So I would never re-install bearings I beat on the inner ring. But depending on the running hours, you can renew them anyway. Should not be that big invest as these are industiral standard parts. In this case it's of course no problem to remove them "the dirty way" :-) Finally a very good Video! Thanks a lot!

[@JustMe-ml8mk]

Thank You

[@specialized29er86]

I went with the DLE after me Mintor developed a bad conrod knock that couldn't be repaired.

[@JENKINS3155]

How do you put a 50cc on 1/5 truck and what engine u buy for that

[@ToolsAndI]

Donald Jenkins I have never worked on an RC truck and therefore I am not suited to answer your question; rc cars are not my area of expertise. I did however found some interesting videos you might want to check and maybe reach out to the publishers. 1)HPI Baja 5T 70cc RCMAX70 Engine ! 2) huge rc scale car big rc 50 cc part 1 3) Chainsaw Buggy 1/5 scale, 48cc - Part I 4) kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpDGaXebfrlgZtGIhanks for your question and good luck with your project.

[@JENKINS3155]

Thanks

[@ToolsAndI]

You have to press in the ring against the piston so that the head can fit in.

[@ToolsAndI]

Add some oil to the cylinder and the piston on the area where the ring is. This should help

[@manuelaskme4672]

@ralphdodi did you get your problem resolved

[@petersmedley5707]

Heat the case with a heat gun....10 mins they drop out easily.

[@erichiles9568]

That's never seize