DLE 55 RC Gas Engine Repair. Part 2 Assembly

[@darkhorsegarage9623]

You did a great job with this video. Showing how to do this without fancy tools. The only thing I would add is using a block of foam on the rod to keep the piston from knocking around. And adding oil to the ring and piston when assembling .

[@НиколайАнцупов-т1ю]

Руки оторвать за такую сборку. Так собирать нельзя!!!

[@Tom_Goss]

You should never beat on a bearings center race with anything. You will create flat spots on the balls/race and make it feel notchy. The bearing life will be reduced as well. The outer race is the only area to apply tapping or pressing force. Both bearings should have been installed in the crankcase first, then the crankshaft installed last.

[@JockeGPz750]

Next time You change bearings: Put Your new bearings in the freezer for an hour. Then heat Your enginepart where the bearing is supposed to sit, preferably with a heating gun. Now You can practically drop Your bearings in place.

[@ToolsAndI]

JockeGPz750 Great, thanks for sharing.

[@darkhorsegarage9623]

Freezing the bearings is a great trick. But it. An cause condensation inside the bearing that could make rust. Placing the case in an oven and heating to 90 deg C will do the same thing.

[@donallen1255]

You can stack old bearing and pull it in with prop bolts Also to get them out put in oven for a few and that will help 😮

[@flyboydale5498]

I have a suggestion. Hydraulic Press can easily damage the crankcase halves. I have an Arbor Press that uses hand power to work it. Harbor Freight Tools also has a bearing installer kit fairly reasonable. The bolt, nut, and washer method also will work. I prefer to heat the case slightly and freeze the bearing as stated in another person's comment to you. They can be found fairly cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Never hammer on any roller or ball bearing! This will damage it. Also, you do not mention using any sealant on the crankcase halves. If you look closely at the crankcase half that faces the carburator, you will see a very small ring of sealant that is green transparent colored sealant around the outer part of the cylindrical protrusion of the aluminum where the protrusion meets the actual flange surface. This is to seal the crankcase. However, I feel the entire crankcase surface should be very lightly coated with Permatex High Temp Flange Sealant. Wipe excess sealant from the inside edge of the flange with a cloth. This will keep the sealant from squeezing inside the crankcase halves when tightening the bolts to the crankcase halves. Any sealant that squeezes on the outside of the crankcase should be wiped clean using a paper town moistened with some Alcohol. If you do not seal the crankcase halves, any leak will result in reduced crankcase pressure resulting in possibly a lean condition, erratic and rough running, hard starting, and generally a less than desirable running engine. There is an activator that you apply to both flange surfaces first after you clean the flange surfaces with a high grade (90+ %) Isopropyl Alcohol. This alcohol is available behind the counter at most local pharmacies. Mine is 99%. I use this grade because it does not have any oily compound that results in a nice clean surface. This Activator is not necessary unless you need to speed the curing of the High Temp Flange Sealant to 4 hours. Otherwise just use the "Permatex High Temp Flange Sealant (part #51031)" and wait at least 24 hours before starting the engine for the sealant to cure fully. I got this information directly from Technical Support at Permatex. The reason to use the High Temp product is because of temperature of the crankcase. This product will withstand up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Permatex also makes a green colored Bearing Set product for using around the outside of the bearings like you suggested. Last but not least, there have been recent improved manufactured parts for the DLE55 Engine. The Piston, Ring, and Crankshaft Needle Bearing, as well as the Crankshaft Assembly, Carburetor, and Reed Valve Assembly. I found this information on Tower Hobbies Web Site under a search for "DLE55 Parts" in August of 2016. The stock original needle bearing has a history of breaking up and damaging the engine. Luckily, mine went just before taxing out to take off. This resulted in damaged piston and ring, and a severe loss of compression. Lucky for me, it did not score the cylinder. Frank Bowman no longer manufactures or sells rings, which is a far better ring resulting in higher compression, increased RPM's and power output. There is another man in the United Kingdom that manufactures a far superior ring for many model engines. He has an eBay store under the name (gaviscool). Clean off the baked on oil and break the glaze in the cylinder, using a very fine piece of wet or dry sandpaper such as 600 grit using a circular motion. Do Not hone the cylinder unless there is scoring. You might want to attach this to your description as it will be helpful to others attempting to rebuild their engines themselves.

[@miguelh.m.m.6911]

Hi, can you tell me if the After Run Oil must be used in gas engines ?

[@ToolsAndI]

MIGUEL HERIBERTO MONTAÑO MARTINEZ After run oil is not needed on gasoline engines and I have never heard any of my friends mentioning they use one. However if you are to leave a gas engine sitting for a long period of time it wouldn't hurt to use some of the same 2 cycle oil to lubricate the internals and running it dry to prolong the carburetor's diaphragm life. This actually becomes more beneficial if you are using gasoline with ethanol content which is the ingredient in the gasoline that adversely affects the diaphragm. Also the ethanol in today's gasoline just like the methanol in glow fuel are the reason to use some type of after run oil. Ethanol and methanol are types of alcohol which attract water which in turn creates corrosion and that corrosion is one of the reasons why after run oil is used on glow engines. To summarize, if you are using gasoline without any type of ethanol content chances are you have nothing to worry about but if you are to leave an engine sitting for a long period of time then a few drops of 2 cycle oil may work some magic. Happy flying!

[@miguelh.m.m.6911]

Thank you so much, and by the way, do you use this "fuel line barb" on the fuel tubes ? and if you do, how do you fix this barb on the brass or aluminum tubes ?

[@ToolsAndI]

MIGUEL HERIBERTO MONTAÑO MARTINEZ The use of fuel line barbs it's not required but it is strongly recommended. There are two main reasons you want to use barbs on your lines. Gas engine vibration and fuel line deterioration. On gasoline engine powered models you want to check the lines every year. I recommend using barbs and zip ties or stainless steel wire to secure lines in place. I buy the barbs made by Dubro and solder them in place. I buy the stainless steel wire at ebay; branded Artistic Wire from a user named micheytoo but you can find other people selling it. Happy Flying! PS. I couldn't answer sooner because I have been without power for almost 24 hours now, had to come out to a wifi hotspot in order to connect.

[@miguelh.m.m.6911]

Thank you again, it's very helpful, but what's still not clear to me is if you use a regular soldering iron and regular tin and lead solder to join the barb to the tube or if I have to use an electric arc welder, and if I have to treat the surface of contact in any special way like with sand paper.

[@ToolsAndI]

MIGUEL HERIBERTO MONTAÑO MARTINEZ I use a regular soldering gun and lead. To treat the surface by sanding or anything else is a matter of personal choice. I personally just solder the barbs in place and that's it.

[@daveblaedow8419]

you never showed if it blew up when you started it or not??

[@ericylle6597]

Thanks for the video! Im thinking about buy this engine! how do you think its running sofar? is it good? any input really appreciated

[@ToolsAndI]

DLE are one of the best values out there. I have four DLE engines and have only had trouble with this one which I had to rebuild. Very recommended for the value but if you have the money to spend then go with a DA.

[@ericylle6597]

@@ToolsAndI thank u!

[@sheeeene7]

Heat the crankcase and put the bearings in the freezer for an hour, and they will go in with ease.

[@cetGT3]

you didnt oil the piston ring was an awful scratching sound as you pushed the cylinder head on to the piston :(

[@allglasstinting]

another tip, you made no reference to the clips position when you installed them. when you install the piston clips make sure the C is not sideways. it HAS to be facing top or bottom i.e. up or down. reason being the piston reciprocating at 7000+ rpm it can collapse and cause serious damage.

[@ToolsAndI]

ray brown Great tip, thank you.

[@tomememin]

Coorection,to release the prop shaft,because it is sooo tight.

[@tomememin]

Can you tell me the measurement of the wrench at the end of the video which you use to tighten the propeller drive hub nut?I'm having difficulties with releasing it to replace both bearings.I saw in the video that you tighten it clockwise,so that means that it releases like all other nuts,counterclockwise.

[@ToolsAndI]

***** The nut releases like regular ones moving counterclockwise. You will need a long and narrow 1/2" inch socket preferably with 6 points and not 12.

[@FlyingRob1]

Not only no hammer, no hydraulic press, too! And no fat onto the center thread! The manufacturer did that fat only to the cone of the center screw to avoid scratch at this place!

[@thiagodefelippe5044]

Abisurdo um motor desse com poucas peças, vai comprar aqui no Brasil muito caro, uns 3mil reais

[@ToolsAndI]

Esta é uma das marcas mais baratas. Algo como um DA é muito mais caro.

[@dbirds21]

always throw the crankcase in the oven at 350 for 10 minutes and remove. Bearings and crankshaft will fall right in with no effort.