OS 40 FP First Run

I run this iconic ebngine for the first time. 11x5 Zinger prop, OS #8 plug, 5% castor/syn fuel
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[@calvinharned6421]

A reminder of the good era engines.

[@AmpAbuser]

Gen II ABN 40 FP - Top Flite Power Point 11x4 @ 12,435 rpm / 6.54 lb. thrust, .81hp - left rich 1st run / 47 mph prop pitch speed 15% nitro / 18% oil blend

[@chrisp6072]

I was running all the different sizes of FP before the Brushless/Lipoly revolution took over my life. What solid, reliable motors they were. All carefully packed away now.

[@ytdhable]

Also my first engine; on a Great Planes PT-40. First run would have been June 1995. Wish I still had it if only for nostalgia's sake. 😊

[@toralfcross3819]

The 40FP lapped steel sleeve was my first engine as well. Mine was inherited by a friend after he passed away but still interesting how so many other people had this as a first engine.

[@toralfcross3819]

Since my first engine I have collected a FP 40 ABN and a couple lapped steel 25s and a lapped 20. All of them are very nice running engines. I plan on trying the carburetor from the 25 F SR that is twin needle.

[@daszieher]

I still have mine. Bought in Orlando, FL back in 1986. It flew in several models, a Great Planes PT-40 amongst them and even survived two major crashes, on one occasion the firewall ended up level with the ground. Took me a minute to realise the engine was ynder ground 😂

[@spitfire051288]

@13:50. Thank you David, I can stop worrying now. I have an identical fp 40 and i was one of those many people that didn't expect that noise. My exhaust deflector made it even more noticeable. its removed now. I would rather hear an OS in its natural state anyway. :) Anyway. Thanks again David. You look like you are doing well. I hope you are doing well..

[@bernieblackburn3034]

Thats amazing thankyou so much ! You do killer work! Cheers

[@peterr.7429]

Thank you, a very nice engine indeed, still have one and they just run perfectly. Great video

[@keithgoode9726]

Good Stuff! Thanks again David.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Like many, the FP was the engine we learned on and ran in our youth. Im currently running an FP 10 on a House of Balsa Chipmunk and an FP 25 on an RPM ( OK Pilot) Barn Stormer. Some people give them a bad rap, but I disagree, these are great engines. Luckily they can still be found on ebay for reasonable prices. They are good little workhorses. Thanks, great video!

[@mikeeiben3430]

The most important thing for a beginner is that it keeps running.

[@DBJr1980]

Definitely top notch OS quality.

[@ringofthebrave]

These are "fly it with the first tank" engines. Good to see that it was first run by someone who know how to treat it right.

[@eagletousey4603]

Nice little engine Dave very well done❤🦅

[@michaelfergusonsr.8574]

Hello David I am a big fan of your channel for a long time. Unfortunately I don't have any FP 40 engines but I do have 2 LA 40's 1 on my Kadet lt 40. And another in a Kavalier that I built. And they have been flawless for me my Kadet I have been flying since 2017 and still runs Great.

[@SuperMillerman10]

The FP series has been the best glow engines I've ever owned. Dead reliable, stupid simple, starts on the first flip, and doesn't complain. Sure, they're no powerhouse, but they'll make you smile every flight

[@dmrcflyr2]

Yes, OS nailed this engine. The perfect engine to attract and keep modelers in the hobby for the exact reasons you mentioned.

[@davelowets]

I had several of the Magnum GP-40 branded ones (same exact engine) and YES, they are sweet and dead reliable engines for SURE. I chose the Magnums because they are ABC engines, and the OS were ABN at the time.

[@davelowets]

When mine were warmed up, I could literally start the engines by attaching the glow ignitor, and then giving the prop spinner a gentle spin in the opposite direction of normal engine rotation, and it would bounce off the compression, switch directions, and immediately start going in the proper direction... EVERY time. No priming, no choking, just attach the ignitor and give it a little backwards spin. I STILL have one, and after MANY years of service, it STILL starts like that when warm today... 👍

[@SomeGuyInSandy]

Super smooth!

[@Astro49flyer]

Yes Dave they are great engines! I have two of them one on and Aerostar 40 and one that has never been run.

[@mr1bienvenu1]

I've had at least 8 of those 40FP and a few .25 FP engines and all were super reliable .

[@weofnjieofing]

Stunning engine fir its time. Super quality in casting and reliability. The idle will come to you as you lean out the high speed to peak power as this invariably affect the low speed mixture. Then some fine tuning of the air screw and she’ll be a snappy engine. Agre the LA series are ugly and cheap looking and tgat all blue paint has no place on a glow engine. Would love to se a full power run once she’s fully broken in. Great video and thank you Dave for sowing off this little gem!

[@johnhess351]

FWIW, I just read an old timer priming tip for one flip starts is to only finger choke the carb on upstrokes and let finger off after going past top of stroke. The idea being the choked downstroke pushes the fuel back up the line.

[@davelowets]

I just pull the pressure line off the muffler nipple and gently blow thru it until I see fuel make it all the way through the line up to the carb and then immediately stop. Then open the carb to WOT and give one more tiny puff into the pressure line and it will push a couple of drops of fuel out of the spray bar and into the crankcase. Connect the pressure line back up to the muffler, attach the ignitor, and BOOM! One flip and she's running. When the engine is warm, I don't have to do anything but attach the ignitor and give it a half hearted flip, and it's running again.

[@Caninaracingatodovapor]

love

[@dcraft969]

The thing I learned on this video is: adjusting the high and low speeds is only a matter of 3-4 clicks either side of peak RPM.

[@johnsgarage6622]

I have allot of use with the 60FP with an Ultra Sport, very reliable great engine

[@jmaclaren4147]

The liner is flash nickel plated engine. break in is easy as you presented.

[@williamcrane8236]

9x5, no muffler, choke till it pops, fire up lean it out click back 60 seconds and pull the fuel. Let it cook completely overnight. Repeat. Switch to flying prop 11x4,10x5 install muffler. Start and adjust to running slightly rich. Go fly and break in the engine the rest of the way.

[@dmrcflyr2]

Odd. I don’t recall asking for any advice running my umpteenth FP engine.

[@davelowets]

"No muffler" Hmm, well that's a bad idea if you want steady fuel pressure thru the break-in process.

[@williamcrane8236]

@@davelowets The size of the carb is barely over a quarter of an inch. His fuel tank is right there. Fuel draw for initial run will be no problem. Backpressure, IS a problem. ABC/AAC engines are TIGHT when new. IF you get one that is hard to turn over, that's GREAT. Heat it up a bit with a covering gun. Get it started and lean it out then back it off a click. Run for 60 seconds so that it gets up to running temp and shut it down. The Cylinder will grow loosening the fit just a bit, you want to do that as quick as possible so you relieve the manufacturing stresses of building, honing, plating and fitting. Let it cool over night so that it shrinks back down. It won't shrink as much and it will start easier the next time BUT the next run, do the same, get it running, click off lean you don't want it dead lean but lean. 60 seconds, do the cool down again. NOW put it on a plane, put the muffler on, put a good prop on it, 10x5 - 11x4 for a 40fp and go fly loops. Set it a little rich level so that when you pull the nose up it goes lean. Flying loops like this will cycle it more and hone it in. Couple flights, sometimes more if it was REALLY tight, and you're engine will be as powerful as it can be and last longer then if you listen to the manual which goes through the old, Iron/steel engine break in routine where the engine is as tight as it ever will be and you burnish it down with rich runs till it will hold a 2 cycle. Your throwing away good metal dong that on ABCs. Man, I'm so happy that the years of running the better part of a gallon through a Fox or a McCoy to gently make it the best it can be are over BUT I love me the smell of some 28% castor fuel. The kicker is though, ABC engines perform best and last longest when they are running full out. As the cylinder cools during partial and idle throttle, the sleeve cools and tightens and wears faster. The answer to this was Ringed engines. The ring made up for the difference BUT you loose a little top end do to the drag and blow by so a 46 ABC was a swap for a 55 ABC ringed. However, eventually you'd wear out each engine which for the ABC meant a new piston/sleeve where the Ringed meant, new ring and a little honing on the cylinder. Engines were cheap, just toss the ABC and get another. After all they're only THEY don't make them anymore? 145 bucks on ebay? 46's are made but 203 at Tower? Man, want to make what I have last. I'll spend that much on a stinking battery pack and at the rate I get to go flying, it'll be crap before I get three flights out of it for an Electric plane. So, this isn't MY knowledge but it is the knowledge I gained and was taught and it worked fantastic. I got better performance and longer lasting out of my engines. Kinda ticked off some of the guys at the field when we ran box stock races OR when I was flying RCCA combat, or club combat, or just having a blast with my sport planes.. But that heyday was a good 10-20 years ago. 16 years ago I became a Grandpa, several times and it really cut into my flying time. With the switch over by so many to Electric I doubt it will matter much. Use it if you want or don't, my explanation is there. And by the way, the narrow intake on the fp (2A?) carb is really PRE muffler pressure size. Muffler pressure really works but after they started offering engines with mufflers the carb size went up dramatically letting in more air, not demanding the carb SUCK the fuel and we got the power we always wanted plus the ability to be lazy on tank position. Unless you're flying control line and you need UPRIGHT to be the same engine speeds as Inverted. And ya, I fly Control line.

[@williamcrane8236]

@@dmrcflyr2 Probably ran across the video a year ago at what time of night I don't know David. OS AWAYS puts way to big of props in there recommended price list. This is because they weren't worried about selling you another engine they were worried about NOISE. And with a huge 11x5 prop on a lower power engine like the fp, you weren't going to make much noise that's for sure. I used to run fp 40s on my Profile CL stunters and there I DID use an 11x4. Initial runs were done on 9x5 or 9x4. It provided a bunch of power for a porky 40 profile Banshee or variant, I had one with a thicker airfoil and little longer and bigger tail I called my Sudden Impact. I didn't know about Ted Fancher's Impact line derived from Twisters. Heck, didn't even know of Ted. The only problem I had running the 11x4's on it was takeoffs. So much static thrust the plane just leapt into the air instead of the preferred accelerate, lift and get to 5 feet in 360 degrees. I was at 5 feet in less then 90, it was almost a catapult launch. So I listened to the 11x5 Zinger on for a break in prop and thought "somebody read the OS manual and it was right for an Iron/steel setup, not the newer chrome setup. It'll swing it. shoot, we had a 20 inch prop on a 60 fp once at the hobby shop I worked at, just futzing around. Throttle it down it would get there, open it up slow cuzz you don't want to flood it and it would slowly spin up, not very fast but it'd get there. Problem was putting the power to an airplane that had the clearance. I think he was going to put it on a telemaster but I can't remember if he ever did. Would have had to hand launch and shut it down for landing. But ya, you were doing it wrong but only for the mostest power with the longest life, squeezing everything I can out of the stock engine. Blah blah blah. In Reality the ABC engine transformed the hobby to motors that were harder then heck to ruin where on an old iron setup, you could lose it all in one, lean flight especially when new. You'll get a pretty long life out of it the way you did. And now, well, it barely matters anymore except in Competition and Heck I don't know what they do now. Even the Control Line flyers have been switching to Battery powered flight. I thought about it for here in the front yard. I don't do as much as I'd like to because though the lots are 3 acres, they're narrower then long and I don't like my circle being so close to the neighbor who said 'I thought you were mowing. It sounded a little weird. But he put in a Martin house last year and when rooking season is in, I like to leave the little birds alone. Ah well. What a bunch a typing for background on a year old comment. Sheesh. And I wouldn't have seen it if it weren't for the No muffler comment that came in 13 hours ago. Like an fp 40 can't suck. Hey, remember when Enya 60s had about the same size carb intake as that fp 40? Course, they didn't come with mufflers back then. Just ramblin man, like to watch your vids.

[@adam_beach_bum]

Agree David, the FP series was levels above the LA series. Though from what I have read the LA series was popular with the control line fliers.

[@bernieblackburn3034]

Hi thanks for the excellent video please keep making more .. my question is what is the difference between the FP and the FS 40 engines of this vintage? Also the SR 60 .. thanks

[@dmrcflyr2]

An FS engines are four strokes. The 40FP is a two stroke engine.

[@bernieblackburn3034]

@@dmrcflyr2 im sorry I posted incorrectly the engine is a SF 40

[@dmrcflyr2]

@@bernieblackburn3034 unfortunately I really don’t have the time to explain this to you. Search my channel for Quick Look or look inside videos for these engines. I usually always talk about the history of them. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pGncepWQiqyWeLMsi=YJ35SdbLDaehMV6O OS Icon 40FP kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGTRd3uuotKrbLM

[@Hornet135]

@@bernieblackburn3034 The .40 SF is a dual ball bearing engine, the precursor to the FX series I believe. The FP engines have bronze bushings and don’t have the raw performance of the SF and FX series, but are a good bit lighter.

[@stevelhamon2031]

Great video, where did you get the tank mount?

[@JuanRodriguez-pq9xc]

Excelente video. Yo hice algo parecido, solo me falta comprar el contador de revoluciones. Gracias.

[@alexandresousa2112]

Hello David, love to see your videos !! Just a question please, is there ani idle screw on a LEO .52 glow engine? Thank you

[@dmrcflyr2]

I have no idea. I don’t have an image of one nor have I seen one.

[@alexandresousa2112]

@@dmrcflyr2 can i sent you and email with some photos?

[@dmrcflyr2]

@@alexandresousa2112 How about watching these and see if they can answer your questions. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZeaqKd4lrOJjpY kzbin.info/www/bejne/aH7Nh32ondh2a5I kzbin.info/www/bejne/iX6XnqWlmJamorc

[@danielcarrenofernandez7424]

i have a friend that have 2 of there, he tells me they are called, the eternal engines

[@kadenhunt1462]

sweet

[@spencersayo2374]

What fuel are you running? 2 stroke oil/gas mix? I’m new to this hobby.

[@dmrcflyr2]

I mention both in the video and in the description the fuel I am running.

[@outdoorfreedom9778]

Too bad, I needed to see how he was adjusting the low end?

[@dmrcflyr2]

What are you complaining about with adjusting the low speed? I explain exactly what i did. If you can’t understand that then…. Do you know the difference between an airbleed carb and a twin needle carb? If not, did you think to ask instead of simply complaining?

[@davelowets]

9:33....😂 Your electric starter turns faster than the engine does at idle.

[@danielhanson4326]

Say, could you tell me what kind of fuel I need to be running and one of those OS40 motors? What you're running there

[@dmrcflyr2]

What I am running is irrelevant. The question is.what do you have access to? There aren’t many choices anymore.