Do 3D Prints Catch Fire? ABS / PLA / PETG Burn Test - Episode 1

[@VagabondTE]

I know a bit about candles. The PLA that didn't burn probably just needs a wick. My guess as to why the wood one burned so well was not so much because of the wood itself but because the wood was able to wick the plastic.

[@XerotoLabs]

was just thinking the same .

[@gbegerow]

Good point about the wick. The wood filament has a much rougher surface. Every grain of wood which breaks out of the polymer might work as a micro wick.

[@gbegerow]

Seems i misclicked. Wanted to answer Tory Evans

[@lukasskymuh5910]

Very good point. The question is: Will the normal PLA start burning as soon there are enogh burned ash particles on top?

[@rich1051414]

Theoretically it could burn. It is made of starch, a carbohydrate. I would like to see someone drop PLA in sulphuric acid :D

[@iotayodi222]

Manufacturers should start stamping the materials flashpoint.

[@superslimanoniem4712]

should be a requirement as far as I'm concerned

[@pothandlepeddlar]

I can't believe it's not a requirement allready :/

[@jedijeremy]

Thanks, Angus! I mainly print in PETG precisely because research led me to believe it was the least flammable (for high-power electronics cases, basically same idea as your ESCs) and it's nice to see that confirmed.

[@Aliasalpha]

The wood print had a viking funeral feel to it. If PLA is based on starches, it might be that you weren't burning it as much as you were caramelising it.

[@retosius7962]

if he had help the flame to it longer it would have likely burned since he didn't hold it that long onto it. if he gave it the same amount of time as the wood one it would have burned for a sec before the melting plastic extinguished it

[@Drachenhebron]

@@retosius7962 yup, i know it burns, i literally burn it out of my clogged nozzles but it has to be heated past just caramelising to self sustain

[@JATMN]

Wow.. very interesting results. Please continue this series I am very curious to see more filaments tested like this. If possible maybe more PLA brands as well, it should expose who has flammable additives and such.

[@KayoMichiels]

That vent on the left of you looks like it's badly printed with stringing all over the place... XD

[@Omlet221]

*poorly 😎

[@UnlikelyCreators]

#AngusIsSidFromToyStory 3:15

[@UnlikelyCreators]

Instead of having plain old benches you should be burning printed out toy soldiers in future ep.

[@AndersJackson]

Benches are toys...

[@boomerangfreak]

I really thought PETG would hold a flame much better, hmmm interesting. *looks at blow torch and failed rigid ink PETG prints*

[@boomerangfreak]

ok results are in: Rigid ink PETG: Doesn't seem to like holding a flame but burns quite violently exposed to a open flame. Heat could carefully be used to bond layer lines (similar to abs acetone smoothing) but gives slight dimensional deviation. Seems to be a bit more brittle? Can give a very nice shiny glazed look. Rigid ink PLA: Seems to hold a flame very well. Unable to see the flame in daylight! Colido PLA: Seems to hold a flame pretty well. Unable to see the flame in daylight! After it cooled down enough to comfortably touch the PLA was still very moldable for a while (a bit clay like) Plastic bottle for control: Since bottles are made from PET I decided to burn this as well. Doesn't hold a flame and doesn't burn as violently as aforementioned PETG. Keep in mind all these tests were done outside at about 8c with wind on varying failed and decommissioned prints.

[@atlasz911]

PET bottle can burn beautifully. Forget your blow torch and use a lighter for a strip or pape sheet for the whole bottle. Once you light it up, hold it witht the flame downwards. It will be burningslowly with moderate amount of black smoke. Small burning liquid pieces will be dropping out of it. Be careful not to let them fall on your skin or on flamable surface.

[@TorstenLif]

Cool! Two suggestions: 1) Remember the old "can you set fire to a sugar cube?" party trick? The trick there is to "accidentally" drop the sugar cube in your ashtray when first trying to light it up., The ash sticking to the molten sugar will act as a kind of "wick" and make it burn with a small flame on the second attempt. I doubt that the small amount of wood in the woodfill plastic actually is what's burning but it may well be the wick that's enabling the fire. 2) Lithium battery!!! I'm sure you have seen the youtube clips where guys jam nails or sharp tools through lithium batteries. So what if the battery is enclosed in a 3d-printed case. Will that just provide more fuel for the lithium fire?! Pretty relevant question if you're building battle robots...

[@MakersMuse]

Haha, yes - my LiPo cases are often 3D Printed... from ABS! Now I will have to seriously consider an alternative.

[@boarder2k7]

The PLA did hold a flame just fine, the wind blew it out. Take a look, you can see the plastic boiling well after the flame was removed, then a clear puff of smoke as it went out.

[@Robothut]

Yes a simple jig that holds the tourch in the same place and distance from the item being burned and a stop watch so the flame is ON for the same amought of time. Also I wind break so all tests are wind free. Great volg and idea, thanks for posting .

[@clarencecherrone7914]

I also want to add I've been looking at using 3d printing for making moulds for metal casting by way of "lost pla". It looks like the hobbyking pla may be a good product for this. So thanks again!

[@pjesapjes]

RIP Army Soldiers! :(

[@ЭдуардСухарев-ш9ч]

Double like for all the safety gear used for seemingly trivial test!

[@donburkholder8850]

Thanks for the Demonstration Angus , that's good to know

[@spikekent]

Great video with some surprising results.

[@thetroubledmakers4556]

RIP Benchy. PET FTW love that stuff.

[@stevesloan6775]

Great video.. Glad too see important 3d printing topic like this being covered. Do you remember how the dripping plastic of an army man would make a wicked sound? What's the bet the globular shape falling has more then a little bit to do with you oddly rotating shapes investigation. Key take away is print in something that doesn't give off black smoke or burn when you hold a candle too it.👊🏻🍀😎

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

I'd like to see more consistancy and repeatability by somehow making the flame last the same amount of time on each plastic piece, a mechanical switch of some type so you give them time to self sustain and possibly maintain the burn. Otherwise fun to watch :-D

[@MakersMuse]

Definitely, the range of requested materials was so large that I need to put a proper chamber together that protects from wind and that way I can regulate things better. For this, I just set out 'trying' to set them alight. I didn't film it, but I subsequently took the torch to a smaller hobbyking PLA print till it was just a bubbling puddle and it still refused to hold a flame which was interesting.

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

I just want to watch the world burn..........or a lot of filament lol Your results in this video will probably be reflected in more controlled conditions but it would be nice to see the same settings for everything. That way we have a way to compare them all. Thouroughly enjoyable ;-D

[@maxrainer8553]

That intro... Is soo awesome!

[@th3smurf692]

That grid behind you, has stringing!

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Surprising results. I'd love to see more, especially filaments that are specifically designed to be inflammable. One question - is the filament any more or less flammable prior to extrusion? I am wondering about the storage of my filament and I have more than a few reels of filament now.

[@alexanderthomas2660]

The translucent blue PLA that came with my FlashForge printer sustains a flame and burns pretty nicely. It probably depends on the actual type of PLA (because apparently it comes in many forms) and what additives it has. Setting fire to ABS is indeed to be avoided at all costs, which I already figured out as a kid when roasting a broken piece of LEGO. It also tends to produce these little floating plumes of soot that turn into black smears when trying to wipe them off whatever they landed on…

[@Crypt1cmyst1c]

big +1 for actually showing us your safety precautions!

[@EikeDecker]

Just a note on wax: While wax is burnable, it's the fumes that burn (you need serious heat to make wax having flames that burn all on itself). I suspect that it's similar with PLA. You'd need a wick or something to keep the flame going, melting the PLA around it. I guess that the wood particles in wood PLA acted as a wick, thus burning more consistently.

[@AlohaMilton]

Thank you very much for doing these tests, visual reference to correlate to material data sheets is nice.

[@bobcampbcacnc9519]

Very neat !! For calibration purposes, at some point, you might do a simple block of wood with the same torch and the same air movement.

[@elvinhaak]

a match?

[@TheMichaelGrace]

I guess you just answered my burning question ;)

[@marccourt7363]

There is a fire resistance test set out in AS3100, General Requirments of Electrical Equipment.

[@antonello988]

Thank you, you are an amazing teacher!

[@pinkponyofprey1965]

Great tests and good to know all in one video!

[@franknizni0164]

looking forward to the autoignition tests !!!!!!

[@John-NeverStopLearning]

Nice test. PETG seems the way to go. One warning ⚠️ don’t make your welding clamps out of plastic.😋

[@stevesloan6775]

Good old KZbin put this video in my 2019 personal steam. It was personally cool I had already “liked” this video. Keep up the top shelf work. 🍀🍀🍀🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺😎

[@Lagggerengineering]

8:10 *Just a theory! A 3D printing theory! Thanks for watching!

[@MakersMuse]

I like his videos :P

[@Lagggerengineering]

Maker's Muse Pretty much who doesn't? Everybody should like at least one of his videos.

[@SianaGearz]

Everybody should hate at least one of his videos too.

[@SteveBakerIsHere]

We know that PLA absorbs water in humid situations - so there could be a difference between FRESH PLA (little or no water) and OLD PLA (more water). If the melting of PLA releases water, then that could extinguish the flame...and your video definitely made it look like there was liquid boiling as the plastic melted. That could possibly explain the difference between the cheap PLA and the PHB-infused. The difference might not be the PHB - but just that your experiment didn't control for the age of the PLA.

[@C-M-E]

A semi-educated guess, but the plastic that burns like a candle, other than ABS, is Polypropylene. If you ever come across an old bic pen, they will burn down right to the metal roller and ironically can be lit with a simple bic lighter. The newer bioplastics don't have the petroleum base (where most plastic of old comes from) and have a corn syrup base, though you get them hot enough they'll burn just fine; thankfully not as readily to open flame. The PETG has that glycol additive which is the hydroscopic part that readily absorbs water from the air.

[@makerlab4334]

I think that Maker's Muse should make a slow motion and rewind video of the plastics catching on fire and melting.

[@JohnSmith-ws7fq]

Great video and demonstration, thanks!

[@stevensimpson]

next time, try adding a wick. liquid diesel doesn't burn easily.... add a bunch of paper towels to the diesel and it goes up easily.. don't ask how I know... maybe print some Tealight pucks and add a candle wick?

[@tensei_alter]

For a future test, I'd like to see how sustaining the flames if the melted plastic is dropping off of the print instead of staying on it. Maybe an example is if the benchies were placed so that the chimney was facing out horizontally, rather than vertically. I imagine ABS won't see any changes, but maybe something from PLA/PETG? It seemed like the molten plastic fluid was putting out the flame.

[@alexdunda]

you should make really cool outdoor-burning candle that has a lattice or voroni type style. Just an experiment

[@stafdehat]

Interesting results - thanks for testing. A bit of constructive feedback though: I really wish this had been done in a lower light situation. Maybe at dawn or dusk.

[@3DWithUs]

This only proves that health and safety measures should be followed at all times.

[@StuartJ]

I got into 3D printing, so that I could paint boxes for my electrics projects. Naturally, I don't want my projects to be flammable, so I was very surprised to find there was so little flame resistant filament. All I could find was abs, which suffered chronic shrinkage. I gave PETG a go, and hasn't looked back. So I wasn't surprised by the result. Filament manufactures, please provide filaments that are certified flame retardant, and you will sell a lot more to those into electronics.

[@MakersMuse]

Yeah, I have to say the PETG surprised me - cool that it self extinguishes and is nice and tough.

[@Karavusk]

Maker's Muse I am not that suprised about this. People often bend PETG tubing for PC watercooling and they use a heatgun to heat it. Never saw that tubing catching a flame.

[@SianaGearz]

Now you consider what flame retardants are. Generally, they are halogen compounds that just bind the halogen until heat is applied. When heat is applied (or unfortunately UV radiation too), the compound decomposes, releasing the halogen, which then binds aggressively to hydrogen, making hydrocarbons or loose hydrogen unavailable as fuel, as greatly increased energy would be needed to break up the halogen-hydrogen bond. But what if it releases inside the plastic? it'll just replace whatever hydrogen bonds are there, the result is brittle discoloured shit. Of course it's not only a problem during 3D printing, but also during moulding, but likely more so during 3D printing.

[@mumblic]

I also was searching for a good material for electronics. So if I understand you correctly "PETG" is the best option??

[@3dpprofessor]

Acording to Bob Zalosh's notes ABS auto decomposes at 285C, Nylon at >310, Poly Methyl Methacrylate (?) 282, Polypropoline at 315, and PVA at ...106? That's not right. I mean this is the dudes job, but that seems way low for PVA.

[@MakersMuse]

I had never heard of that before, but looks like a good resource. I agree those numbers don't sound entirely correct. Modifiers would certainly have an affect too - I think these days filaments are rarely 'just' one polymer eg Polymaker's PolyMax PC is definitely not pure polycarbonate, it prints too well!

[@f_bomb_3000]

Hey Angus, any tweaks or advice for making the Flexion Extruder perform well with Wood PLA? I'm going to install the Flexion on my Wombot printer soon and have 1.5kg of Wood PLA to finish. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

[@stevenrs11]

A bit late to reply, but often times the rate of decomposition is very, very slow at the low end of the range. For example, polycarbonate decomposition products are detectable at 300C, but it's so slow it's not really an issue. It can be held at 320C for hours, only breaking down rapidly/off-gassing over 400C. In fact, most polycarbonate processing happens 300C+. As a side note, I have printed over 25kgs of PC-Max. Mostly for work, but I use it for personal stuff too. It's my go to instead of pretty much everything. Once you dial it in, it bridges better than PLA, you can print it blazing fast at 280C, and its totally indestructible. (btw PolyMax is polymaker's premium PLA, PC-Plus and PC-Max are the polycarbonates.

[@surfacereflection8298]

I would love to see how resistant to gradual increase in heat are the materials. As in, when "exactly" the deformations start and at what exact heat do they start burning, if they do start burning. That would be very useful to know for many more serious applications of 3d printing.

[@realmaexchen]

Wouwh... First I thought... oh no.. not another pyromania experiment.. there are so many on YT now... But this is quiet interesting! Thank you for this demonstration, I learned :-)

[@EspenShampoo25]

that was one crazy test!

[@davidwimberley3267]

I think you will see upon closer examination that the PLA did burn, albeit with a nearly invisible and smokeless and odorless flame. Great stuff for lost-plastic casting.

[@clarencecherrone7914]

beats looking up the msds safety sheet lol good video thanks

[@kaushikramini2171]

Another great video Angus, keep it up!

[@GothBoyUK]

I realise that this is over a year old now but wondered if you would do an update on the flammable qualities of the latest filaments. It'd be best to do it in a fume cupboard of some sort to remove the influence of wind, whilst making it safer (the fumes, as you know, can be evil). There's been a flood of new filaments recently & I do have concerns about the purity etc that might be revealed by testing against other, more known, quantities.

[@stevesbuttdocter1173]

Very interesting results. As a suggestion I would like to see metal particle filament. Both 30% like the majority on AliExpress and 80% like good metal particle filament.

[@tim1398]

Polycaronate is UL 94V2 fire rated... There was a FD test on windows with Acrylic vs PC and the Acrylic was a firetrap, a flaming ball of goo, while the PC held shape and did not burn.

[@ualdayan]

You should consider ordering a sample size of Ultem filament - it's used in airplanes because of it's safety when exposed to a flame (it doesn't ignite). Automobile manufacturers use it too in place of steel because it has the strength needed while being much lighter in weight. You just need to have a PT100 or similar equipped hotend as you will be needing to go up to 350-400C to print.

[@hessin187]

if you try nylon be sure to anchor it, years ago I would light the tip if nylon guitar picks and they'd shoot off like a rocket. I'd be interested to see if any additives in nylon filament change how it burns.

[@PartTimeRonin]

I'm glad PETG is flame retardant since I use it on almost everything I print. But I will test it myself too in case some brands did well than the other.

[@marccourt7363]

Testing to AS3100 or the equivalent AU-EC standard and without going into a lot of details on what is considered a pass or a fail. If the material is self extinguishing after the test wire or test flame is removed it would be considered a pass. You can find a material would pass but the same material with a different pigment would fail. There are plastic reference volumes which will give you information as chemical breakdown, electrical and mechanical strength, temperature resistance etc . ,

[@chinwardarles9071]

What I've found with PETG is that thin pieces (I've tested around .8mm x .4mm) will actually burn so well it acts almost like a fuse.

[@AJB2K3]

Interesting test, thanks for doing it.

[@eivis13]

Sets pla with wood particles on fire and expects it not to burn. Logic level +9000

[@williampitzer5817]

You are having way too much fun :o)

[@gilb6982]

Very good info. I finally have a printer and it is printing non stop I wasn't expecting that it can print that precise I am really surprise and to say that I have the one on the cheap side it is a Anet A8 plastic frame that want to shake the house out of it's foundation at 50mm/sec but at 30mm/sec it is purring like a cat and fun to watch So now I am hook !

[@chrisl4999]

Thanks. I was trying to identify some filament I acquired whose label only said "red". uggh. After doing the flame test it was apparent this was ABS and not PLA. Thanks for the visuals.

[@coltonbishop2286]

once I used plain white generic PLA for a candle wick for fun and it worked pretty well

[@Linkman-fm2in]

The hobbyking pla honestly looks like soda when it melts!

[@VagabondTE]

I'd like to suggest the Candle Print Test. Print a small narrow cylinder maybe with a pointed top just like a candle. Leave a small hole down the middle for a wick or just some cotton thread. It doesn't have to be embedded in the plastic or anything. Just feeding it through would be fine. You should be able to get very consistent results and be able to tell a lot more from the flame and smoke.

[@MakersMuse]

Very interesting concept, I'll see what I can do.

[@VagabondTE]

Maker's Muse Thanks /)*

[@smokeydops]

i'll take that (\

[@huzaifaahmed6532]

Angus- you should start a series of how make your own 3d priinter like TOM did it. OR a whole live stream on it

[@MakersMuse]

What kind of printer ? I have definitely considered it.

[@huzaifaahmed6532]

Maker's Muse Cartesian based printer will be good like prusa i3 and all problems which a person will face during the making of the 3d printer and after.

[@MakersMuse]

Don't much see the point of designing another i3 honestly :) I can't add much to what already exists and it would cost more than buying chinese kit.

[@huzaifaahmed6532]

Maker's Muse No I don't want you to make another i3 just to make a video what to consider when making a 3d printer by your own.

[@MakersMuse]

Ah fair enough, yeah Tom definitely has that covered well! I am planning on documenting a custom build though at some point.

[@HenriH1G5]

You can burn common PLA. I set my rafts/brims on fire and use the melting drops of PLA to weld two parts together. I think thickness of the PLA is a KEY factor.

[@MakersMuse]

Interesting - I couldn't get the hobbyking PLA filament itself (1.75mm) to sustain, maybe they have put something in it.

[@HenriH1G5]

I just did a small test and all my brands of PLA I can set them on fire on the filament (1.75mm) itself (Printrbot white, Arianeplast white and one with sparkels, and there grey one and a local dutch no name brand)

[@MakersMuse]

Haha, good to know! There's so many brands out there. Are any quite ductile? That usually signifies a PHA blend.

[@HenriH1G5]

The PLA from Arianeplast did have some different results sometimes its snaps immediately and sometimes it had some ductile bends (90°-120°) the other ones didn't show any ductile results.

[@colinwinterburn6136]

I know it's been a while but I wonder if you could redo the test under more controlled conditions. I think there is more we could learn from it. Also we have a few years of evolution in the field. Love your videos.

[@MakersMuse]

Great suggestion, definitely worth a revisit!

[@psifour6759]

Seeing the melting on the PETG makes me wonder if I could improve prints by heating them while under a mild vacuum. If you got the balance between heat and pressure right you could remove the airbubbles that form from being heated and it would produce a fine glossy finish. Obviously heating parts is already a thing, but I hadn't considered the impact of reducing the air pressure previously.

[@3DPrintedAspie]

Great Video yet again. :D I'm loving these stress tests. I was going to suggest Acetone Smoothed ABS but no doubt you've had loads of requests for that. I would like to see you test how things burn over time, If you printed 6 benchy's in the same filament and burn one a month to see if the plastic degrades enough over the 6 months to change the results. :D

[@choschiba]

What a cool idea!! You are so crazy. :-) So it would be interesting to hear and see which filament you will choose for you future racing robots. As you need a material that has an good fracture toughness, which PLA doesn't really deliver.

[@johandodenedgren7557]

destruction, I like it. you get a sub.

[@gbegerow]

A simple tip to see an invisible flame. Put a few grains of salt on a stick. If you bring the salt in the flame the sodium will color the flame with a bright yellow.

[@MakersMuse]

Nice tip! I was looking for the bubbles but that's not exactly reliable.

[@bluedeath996]

If you want a flame retardant polymer it needs to be brominated or chlorinated. You could test one again with a flame retardant spray applied. PLA decomposes to produce a lot of water, which retards the flame, but eventually the heat is enough to boil it off faster than it forms.

[@cavalrycome]

One of the things holding me back from getting into 3D printing at home is health risks associated with the fumes. It would be nice to see some discussion of that from you. I've just been reading some research that says printing with ABS and HIPS filaments releases styrene which is carcinogenic, while nylon, PCTPE, laybrick, and laywood filaments (and to a lesser extent polycarbonate and T-Glase filaments) release caprolactam, which is not carcinogenic but causes other serious health issues. Interestingly, printing with PLA filaments only releases small amounts of lactide, which is not known to be harmful to health.

[@cavalrycome]

The research paper I got these details from is here: pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983

[@xXMeecrobXx]

If you give the PLA a wick like a candle it would just soak into it like wax would do but in all cases all 3D Filaments are highly flamable if there is a consistant heat source for about half a minute. Carbon Fibre and glass fibre filaments should be a bit more flame retardant then normal ones, also it would be interesting to see how nylon based filamets react too. You never did a episode 2 so here ya go :D

[@wilhelmjubt4223]

the flame out of the chimney XD

[@Quadromodo]

Good stuff. Which of your printers catches fire first?

[@MakersMuse]

Probably all the ones with thermal runaway disabled...

[@uniaddict]

I'm curious about filament that has metal or carbon fiber in it. In theory you would want the esc's to have help dissipating the heat that they generate, whereas the filaments that you tested will more than likely insulate the esc. Insulating the esc will only promote the heat concentration on them, thus fire. So, maybe change your thinking from things that don't burn well to things that help promote heat transfer.... if that is even a thing with filament haha Love the vids!

[@catsinheat]

well done.

[@techwizpc4484]

The ABS is a petrol byproduct so that explains why it burns really well.

[@3Dgifts]

The Benchy has found its purpose 😅 and we learned that wood burns 😂. Seriously, thank you, I was thinking of doing this. Do you think it could also be brand specific? Love your channel, thank you.

[@LWJCarroll]

Interesting to watch.. you should get in touch with an industrial chemist and do this under more controlled conditions.... Also we should be able to get copies of manufacturers MSDS (Manufacturers Safety Data Sheet) which should show a classification eg IATA and melting/burning temps....FYI Our State Insurance Co (Owned by IAG and Aussie co btw) here in NZ told me they would not insure our house and contents if I had a 3D printer inside...Rgds Laurie

[@gbegerow]

Interessting video. I assume most manufactories will put at least a little bit of flame inhabitant additive to the pla polymer. A little bit of a bromine complex will raise the flaming point a lot. Please ensure to not breath the fumes. While the polymer body should simply burn to CO2 and water, most additives are complex organic molecules, which may result in carcinogenic products if burning at low temperatures. If there is any chloride in it (which I assume is not) you can get hydrocloric acid or dioxin if flame temperatur is below 800°C.

[@NathanaelDuke]

I’ve been able to get PlA to hold a flame while clearing out my nozzle with a torch, but it takes a lot of sustained heat, and it seems to burn best when it’s been thinned out.

[@shanebeasley8191]

i think acetone smoothed vs non smoothed ABS prints would also be a good comparison

[@Bakamoichigei]

If you do this again under more controlled conditions as others have suggested, you should totally try Polycarbonate! eSUN markets their ePC filament as having 'low flammability' and being flame retardant. That wood-filled PLA was pretty spectacular. It really looked like the flame was ignoring the PLA for the most part and igniting the wood particles, just burning its way through the print...and the intervening PLA material was just being burned up as collateral damage. Heh, now I want to get light and dark wood-filled filaments, and dual-extrusion print some little logs... So I can set up a little fireplace for them. ;)

[@NightRunner417]

10:44 - "What have you done now Gilligan!!!"

[@maxhaynes677]

ABS is actually used for the solid part in liquid rocket motors fun fact!

[@Popesta]

nice vapour smoothing technique ;)

[@HighVoltageMadness]

i've actually burned failed pla prints before. You basically have to continue to light it until it is burning enough to self sustain a burn.

[@sinformant]

funny you just did this video, I was wondering this myself the other day. grabbed small piece of glow in the dark abs and it went up in flames and left small black sooty ashes that hung in the air and fell . it smelled bad. lit a piece of wood fill pla and it burned like a match stick and put off an aroma of burning wood.

[@seaneddy1]

Breaker's Muse... the series!

[@Bigrignohio]

You know, this makes me think about the "stovetop firestops" people use in their printer enclosures. They basically explode and spread what appears to be baking powder. Has anyone had the misfortune of actually depending upon them to put out a fire? Also that melted PLA was quite interesting. I can see printing fake candles and making realistic wax "drips" this way.

[@Tennisbull-match-statistics]

Bigrignohio I have one, don't plan on using it any time soon ;-) www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080119

[@rommac100]

Check out EPC it is a polycarbonate filament from Esun which claims to be fairly flame resistant.

[@mikeschmidt982]

I know that its 2018 and I'm watching this, but for those who use inland pla from micro center I find it to hold a flame very well btw.

[@olivercordingley1201]

3:16 Geez its Sid from ToyStory...