Do Carbon Fiber Seatposts Make Bikes More Comfortable? | GCN Tech Clinic

[@MisterAndyS]

I spin out on 58/14 all the time, but that's going to happen with the 16" wheels on my folding bike.

[@renegadeflyer2]

I have a entry level aluminum cyclocross bike. It had a very Ridgid aluminum seatpost. I had changed it to a carbon post with a curved post for set back. it was a noticable improved the ride. It can flex a bit too much on some bumpy terrain.but for most of my riding it was a big improvement. It was one of those cheap Chinese seat post. I took a chance, but I don't regret it. Good so far. 185 pound rider

[@dafyddgiddins9861]

I know what the problem with the guy who was spinning out was, he had small wheels. :)

[@hisdadjames4876]

Either that or he just needs to fit a chain😐

[@DavidFritzIII]

Brompton?

[@MarkBurghouwt]

he didn’t use a chain 😂

[@hugobci]

Or maybe the Hub is not engaging properly and he is both pedaling hard AND free wheeling a bit

[@SpicyTrifongo]

Gotta be. Or his rear derailleur isn't indexing all of the way down.

[@kurt1391]

I switched from an aluminium seatpost to a Fizik carbon fibre one a number of years ago. Yes, it makes the bike more comfortable, more than you might expect.

[@TheSpaceBrosShow]

eh, also placebo justifying your purchase plays a role

[@NefastusJones]

I upgraded to a carbon seat post. It saved a bit weight in my wallet.

[@jefferycampbell2243]

There are a few carbon seat posts on the market that are specifically designed to soften the ride, like the Ergon CF3/Canyon VCLS 2.0 split post.

[@TheSpaceBrosShow]

@@NefastusJones LOL same. We are now more aero

[@macvos]

@@jefferycampbell2243 Giant has their D-Fuse seatposts with a D-shape, specifically to allow for slight bending and improving comfort (especially on their aluminium bikes). They do really seem to work, although they require a frame with a specifically shaped seattube.

[@Digi20]

You can ride (almost) without punctures by using heavy duty tires like the schwalbe marathon plus. with the cons of more weight, wooden hard ride feel and less grip in the wet. there is nothing like free lunch here and a tire is always a compromise between weight, grip, rolling resistance, feel and toughness.

[@TheSpaceBrosShow]

The normal Marathon tire feels considerably less like riding on concrete tires than the plus. I'd classify the plus as an e bike only tire. Too heavy otherwise

[@ehjones]

Gatorskins work well for me. I've never punctures through them. I think the rolling resistance is poor though.

[@nemure]

Why? Having tannus tyres which are lighter, aire free (100% puncture free) with better grip on wet why are you going to use the ones u said?

[@nikivvsm]

GP5000: laughs in the corner

[@TheSpaceBrosShow]

@@nikivvsm it does but it's not exactly classified as a durable tire. Tradeoffs in everything

[@rostuchicken]

Best advice ever. Get a pro contract. Hilarious.

[@IIISentorIII]

Not with his 26" wheels though 😁

[@matthewvelo]

Hi Folks, thanks for answering my carbon seat post question and likely saving me some money I can spend on other bike bits! Cheers.

[@florianbusch3082]

To the person asking why the tire looses pressure over this short amount of time: I got the same problem and i probably got your back. Try tightening the inner part of the valve. If you unscrewed it to get the sealant in it's likely that you didn't screw it strong enough. I've had this with my brand new bike and was wondering why it lost serious amounts of air even after just one day of sitting in the basement. This solved it for me and it's so simple :)

[@DavidFritzIII]

For the pressure drop gave you checked your rim tape? A lot of setups leak through the rim tape. Try double wrapping, but make sure you clean the surface very well first!

[@maurolazzarini493]

I had similar issue on Fulcrum 7 aluminium wheel similar or identical to yours. I solved reading their online instruction manual on tubeless conversion where they show you must first put a piece of tape crossing side to side the rim internal channel in the spot where you have the weld junction. And of course you need to use sealant Joe's worked for me.

[@BrandonMeyer1641]

I’ve been running metallic pads for a while. They don’t offer the same level of bite as organic compounds but they last a lot longer. In addition, metallic pads are easier to deal with when they have been contaminated with oils and other debris from the roads. Just scrub the pads with some acetone and sand them down a bit, clean the rotor with acetone and the are good as new. In my experience resin pads do not hold up as well. They seem to be contaminated to a notable level more easily and are trashed most of the time even if you try to decontaminate.

[@macvos]

True, except on the bite. Metallic pads need more heat in them to properly start biting. Most rides don't create enough heat during short braking to reach their optimum temperature. However, when doing sustained descending, they actually brake better than organic pads, which tend to overheat more easily. Do note that metallic pads are a bit harder on your rotors.

[@BrandonMeyer1641]

@@macvos they might not be at their optimal temp, but I find that the system still has more than enough power to lock a wheel on demand. They also seem to cope way better than resin on descents and everything stays coolers with no fade. Personally I think the noise they make is cool as well. They are the easy choice for me. Everyone has their own preference tho and there is no doubt resin pads are easier on rotors.

[@RobLarsen]

I run tubeless with Vittoria air-liners and that's as good a puncture protection on a road bike gets. On anything other than the longest rides to rural areas I don't carry spares or a pump and have zero stress. the Air-liners are 💯

[@rlemacs]

I have 53 - 14 as biggest gear and this week I avaraged over 40 kilometres per hour on the last 20 km, flat road.

[@clinlashway9147]

I switched from an alloy post to a Canyon S13 VCLS CF carbon seatpost on an alloy Cannondale Topstone. It made a very noticeable difference. It greatly reduced road buzz and damped the harshness when going over large cracks in pavement. While my reason for getting this post where due to it's extended saddle setback/offset, the softening of the ride was a bonus. It was expensive, but I'd do it again just to get the softer ride. I have a new Trek Checkpoint SL5 that has a carbon frame and seatpost, also a feature they call Isospeed. It has a very nice feel. Much due to the carbon frame and Isospeed, but I think the carbon seatpost is part of this. No question larger tires and/or lower tire pressure will have a bigger effect on the ride feel, but I think a carbon seatpost is certainly something to consider.

[@playandteach]

Seat posts: not all aluminium seat posts are equal. I swapped mine for a Thompson one with a set back angle, and it is comfy and light.

[@luukrutten1295]

But thomson posts are among the stiffest out there.... I like their kit, but they can't be more comfortable.

[@kidkarbon4775]

@@luukrutten1295 why can they not be more comfortable - Thompson seatposts are well designed and it's well established that setback seatposts result in greater deflection.

[@justicefuree3205]

carbon seat posts and cranks are a must have ,not too expensive and gives you major gains

[@treygray2817]

Cranks? How so?

[@ff2e]

I changed my carbon post on my gravel bike to an aluminum post because I noticed some fatigue near my sit bones from the saddle moving so much. The carbon post on my road bike is more comfortable though.

[@jonathanzappala]

The ritchey superlogic seatpost, 25mm layback definitely does improve comfort. I didn’t buy it for that and was shocked that I could actually tell in just 200ft that it did, because for me I live on a brick stream and the most uncomfortable part of the ride is always my own street.

[@hisdadjames4876]

Great show, guys...very relaxed and sensible advice throughout👍

[@allonsyuk]

Forgetting racing for a moment cos I retired from that many years ago. Totally club level but my ftp 30 years ago was 350 watts but now nearer 250. I now cycle just for pleasure. I am way nearer 60 than 50. I have a full carbon bike which is light and is good fun to ride but I actually still have my old Peugeot that I used to race on with 531 tubing and have to say it still makes me smile when I ride it and I often think why did I waste all that money on a carbon bike. The carbon bike is so stiff and unforgiving. The old steely is so much smoother and comfortable on our crap rough uk roads. I do most rides on the carbon bike cos I spent so much money on it I feel I should but actually almost regret getting it. If I was younger and still racing then maybe would appreciate it more. Too many channels concentrate on the latest greatest carbon offerings but actually for us mere mortals with max powers under 1000 watts the carbon bikes are just OTT imo

[@matthewshaw3747]

Sell it? Treat yourself to a modern steel bike or just ride the old one. Never been a better time to sell a second hand bike as prices have never been higher.

[@bleckandbleck]

I'm pretty close to your profile, 63 now. I've ridden a few carbon bikes and they vary tremendously in comfort. The Serenity track bike was ridiculously stiff which was great for the track. The Time VRS was like butter but nicely stiff in torsion. My 531 bike has considerably more road buzz.

[@thomasmitchell6609]

To amplify the point about auto tires, most of them have steel belts backing the tread. Tire models intended for high speed use over extended periods of time are made without steel belts to prevent creating a heat sink and, as a consequence, are more prone to puncture. So high speed auto tires aren't usually used on the street, except by those intent on breaking the speed limit.

[@krollpeter]

Regarding the seat post, I'd say try a carbon with layback, that might make a feelable difference. For me it did, albeit on an ordinary trekking bike.

[@lenwilkinson8541]

Two technical comments. Spinning out with 53x11? Wolftooth makes a 10-tooth cog. Loosing tire pressure over time? Maybe the liner tape needs replacing.

[@ronaldhoward7908]

Yes, yes,& yes!

[@chivacetana]

These are the questions that need to be answered!

[@guidospanoghe8896]

ETRTO (European Tyre and Rim Technical Organization) states a maximum pressure of 5 bar but not based on their own extensive testing. Zipp has done tests in which the blow out pressure of hookless and hooked rims is roughly the same. Giant allows higher pressures on their hookless Cadex rims depending on tyresize. So I'll put 6 bar in the 25 mm Conti GP 5000 TR of my new carbon rear wheel.

[@mynameisyasser]

I remember Dan LLoyd received the same question about spinning out on a large 53 tooth chainring______ He wasn't as forgiving though _________

[@krug123]

For the person who was asking about losing pressure on tubeless, check also that the tyres are correctly seated in the rims, that they’ve fully “popped” into place. Makes a big difference.

[@bengt_axle]

Regarding the carbon seatpost and comfort, Lenard Zinn did an objective analysis of this years ago and concluded that the greatest damping effect was in the case of a post that had the greatest setback and was made of carbon. The least was a zero setback post made of aluminium. I actually designed my custom steel bike frame with this in mind and it worked out great, but it’s still tire pressure and volume thAt matter most.

[@neelsahay5227]

Im gonna assume that what the 53/11 guy meant is he lives in a mountainous area where all the riding is up or down, and the descents are long and steep enough to be over 55kph most of the time. I live in an area with some long descents, sometimes in the tailwind, and i find myself able to pedal up to about 73kph in the 52/11 because of cadence (although im not putting down a lot of power at those high revs), *but* in those instances I am in top gear for minutes at a time, which can def make you wish you had one extra gear to pedal slower, especially if super high cadence isn't your thing still, 52/11 is more than i can sprint (i think i've managed top gear in a sprint like twice) and I think this is the more important limiting factor than descending speed, where you can keep accelerating by supertucking anyways.

[@dreimer2112]

Possibly, but unless he's on an ebike, he's going to be spending far more time grinding up the hill than spinning down it.

[@keithfurrow5899]

Thanks guys. Thorough and entertaining answers

[@reedhorton5457]

#AskGCNTech for pro teams like Movistar who are sponsored by Zipp, what wheel/tire combo do they use? If tubeless is really the fastest, do they use 454 NSW and 28mm tires at 60psi (since zipp doesn't support 25mm tires for most hookless wheels/tires)?

[@peterwainwright5994]

Very interesting set of questions and answers guys! ..thanks very much!

[@domonkosscheiling5809]

having a carbon seatpost on your aluminium bike makes it more comfortable and helps handling for sure. carbon post on carbon frame has way less effect due to the difference in the stiffness of aluminium and carbon fibre. dropping 100+ grams from the very top of the bike makes sense. just like using lightweight tyres and rims.

[@kidkarbon4775]

Would like to see the material science data to support the statement 'that a carbon post on an aluminium bike makes it more comfortable and helps handling.' I'm sorry I just don't agree with the statement.

[@domonkosscheiling5809]

​@@kidkarbon4775 why is that? just curious. if you ask me to provide scientific data i could also ask you to do the same. my answer is quite simple: if you lose weight from the very top of your bike (saddle and/or seatpost) the center of gravity gets closer to the ground so you have less inertia which helps handling. the question of comfort is more complex, because different seatposts have different ways to hold the saddle rails taht affect comfort a lot, so this might be more important than the material of the seatpost.

[@kidkarbon4775]

@@domonkosscheiling5809 I fail to see why I should provide data as I am not the one made the statement. I simply stated I do not agree with it. A seat post requires a certain level of deflection for comfort as such ultimate stiffness is never the objective. For example the Ergon CF3 seatpost requires a force of 69N to flex one vertical mm while a Canyon frame requires 7000N of force. A well designed seatpost flexes at a rate 100x greater than a steel frame. Without deflection a seat post is not able to reduce high frequency vibrations from the road or take care of bigger impacts thanks to the 20mm+ (0.89") of vertical flex in seatposts such as the Ergon CF3. A linear relationship exists between deflection and force (for the small range typically observed in seatposts) which helps to predict flex at different force rates. Ultimately implying that seatpost comfort can be dictated by stiffness is at the very least an incomplete argument as the amount of post sticking out of the frame influences that greatly as does rider weight. The material choice for a seatpost is less important than deflection properties and the resonance frequency of the finished product. I'm yet to see any research that states otherwise.

[@adrianc6534]

i swapped out the 31.6 aluminum seatpost to a 27.2 carbon seatpost on my ibis hakka (carbon gravel bike) and the change in comfort was huge, so it can make a pretty big difference on a carbon frame as well.

[@erikarnstrom897]

Air leakage on mtb tires is common due to release agent inside which the sealant cannot "grab". The old GP5000 TL is fully sealed; the new GP5000 s tr is not. Tubeless valves is a little bit tricky to get fully sealed

[@garavonhoiwkenzoiber]

I had a carbon seatpost. I don't any more. Remember your torque specs, kids!

[@yogatriathlete]

Hey Ollie, the middle of the block is not the most efficient. The 14T or 15T cog will give you the best drivetrain efficiency. The straighter chainline of riding in the 14T has a bigger impact in efficiency compared to the larger 19T cog. This was tested by Friction Facts back before they were acquired by CeramicSpeed. I would be surprised if you didn't know that

[@danmaduff8919]

Wrong answer! How did GCN Tech miff this question? The answer is IT DEPENDS on your carbon fiber seatpost of choice. It's like asking if going to a carbon fiber bike is more comfortable or stiffer? It depends on the layup and construction. You can get a carbon post that is designed to be aero and very stiff or a carbon post like the Specialized CobL-GobL-R that will improve the comfort of you bike significantly.

[@13ig13oots]

Can we please have Ollie riding through custard, he seems to have some experience of this.

[@philadams9254]

6:50 - Please do a video on solid tyres! Maybe some real world speed tests too please. I've heard that they can cause a lot of spoke breakages due to the lack of cushioning

[@georgedawson235]

The shape of a car tyre does also help a lot with automotive tyres, they almost squeeze the puncture and create and air tight seal around the object (depending on what it is obviously)

[@DanGleebowls]

I use continental grand prix 4 seasons and haven't had a puncture in over a year of daily commuting on crap roads (broken glass is a common sight on my commute) on the motorbike I averaged 2 punctures a year on my commute.

[@leonh619]

LOL THE ANSWER ABOUT CHAINLINE!!! THIS KIND OF STUFF CRACKS YOU UP IF YOU WORK IN A BIKE SHOP!!!

[@kevinwiesner4290]

Hey Tech Team! I am considering buying a new bike equipped with the new Ultegra 12s Groupset. I am held back by the fact though, that it only comes with a 52/36 chainset. Would it be possible to upgrade the chainset to the new 54/40 Dura Ace 12s one? In general how interchangeable are the new 12s components between Dura-Ace and Ultegra? Thank you in advance! Greetings from Germany!

[@glen3509]

Just go with a 7000 series aluminum Thomson Elite or Masterpiece seatpost👍👍. Or if you can afford it, their 3/2.5 Titanium versions🤘🤘

[@jeremytaylor5196]

***WARNING @Eric Bellrose - Continental GP5000 TL is NOT hookless compatible. Only the latest GP5000 S TR (which is in short supply, so you possibly don't have) is hookless compatible. #AskGCNTech could you let other viewers know that they have to check their tyres are specifically hookless-compatible?

[@goonzjav]

I ride a Cinelli mash fixed gear with carbon fork but alu steerer and 23mm tyres. It is my most comfortable bike with a 3t carbon seatpost and Deda carbon bars even with no bar tape. Carbon makes a big difference. Plus my canyon aeroad which is complete carbon is also just as comfortable

[@CraigJohnBoylan]

I used to own a Giant TCR that had 53-11, I could get 50mph on the downhills around Bedfordshire but my legs were spinning too fast to go any faster. I had Continental Grand Prix 4 Seasons which never punctured.

[@liamaherne8460]

A carbon seatpost designed to flex can most definitely improve comfort. Try the Syntace P6 for example.

[@philipholenstein5685]

Carbon seatposts can be far more comfortable to ride if you choose one with flex zones in them such as Cannondale SAVE carbon seatpost.

[@Destide]

#AskGCNTech Hey guys, can I still call myself a vegetarian/vegan if I forget to close my mouth when commuting by a canal in the spring? 🪰🪰🪰🪰🪰😮

[@uaproman]

Hey! I noticed that when I go to 50x11 the chain starts to vibrate from side to side. After replacing the chain and cassette with new ones, the problem remained. Is this normal or is there a problem with the cranks or the rear shifter? #AskGCNTech

[@TheObeseDuathlete]

the guy spinning out that chainrings probably has BMX Tires 😂🤣😂🤣😂

[@vancelray]

I spin out on 52x11 all the time - on rollers. Haha!

[@RossMKF1]

I find it funny how one computer is very clean and the other has a million stickers

[@justicefuree3205]

psi loss is normal , check tire pressure before every ride at least 2 times a week , pretty easy and simple

[@enduroelite]

that rubbing on the crank arm. what causes that? Does it not illustrate an issue with your cleat position or the Q factor?

[@K1989L]

BTW You should not just switch pad from resin to metal wihtout checking if your rotor allows this! I just bought a new rotor. I did not check what it was. Slapped those metal pads.. And I had no brakes at all. It didn't stop. Then I read from shimano that the rotor was for RESIN PADS ONLY!

[@Klocekd2]

i think Jan Kroken should put his chain back on. that would solve the spinning problem

[@jasonbannan4024]

Ernestas, overtape your rim tape with heavy duty electrical tape. You may find less leakage.

[@galenkehler]

You can achieve car levels of flat avoidance by riding in the same place as the cars. The main cause of flats is riding in the debris on the side.

[@guidospanoghe8896]

If you use organic brakepads that have not undergone a bed-in procedure they wear out a lot faster and perform underpar from the start ! Ten minutes well spent after changing your brakepads I would say.

[@JackMott]

It is fun to imagine how the 53x11 comment could make sense. Is it a travel bike with tiny wheels? That even wouldn't make sense, maybe if its really 53x12 AND a travel bike, heh

[@billkallas1762]

Speaking of short life of disc brake pads, I've read of cyclocross races, in sandy soil, where new pads don't last the entire race.

[@ianiscaratti4924]

that is a known problem and easy to solve with non perforated cx specific rotors

[@andreihomiuc4264]

Yes they do, love it!

[@seattlegrrlie]

Who runs at max psi? If the tyre is rated at 100, you should be running 80 anyway and then pay attention to your wheel rating as well. You're less likely to pop a tyre, get better rolling resistance, and more comfortable ride

[@izi941]

5months for the pads is long…on V-brakes CX we had to change the monthly. Or even after just 1 gravel alpine descent 😜

[@Groegselmaschupp]

Get an Ergon CF3 and you‘re in heaven. It makes a very big change for comfort. Never anything else.

[@pgee70utube]

re puncture protection - the schwalbe marathon supreme are good for commuting.

[@einundsiebenziger5488]

Schwalbe Marathon Plus - the so called "un-punctureable" with the thick blue protective layer - are unbearably heavy, half a metric pound per wheel. Switched back to regular ones after having tested them as a bike messenger and feeling much more exhausted after every shift due to frequently having to accelerate in city traffic.

[@jodytan5894]

Spinning out at 53X11 🤣😂🤣😂 dude can afford to skip a few leg days.

[@ridzyroo]

Hey GCN - Should I sacrifice comfort for aero in terms of tyre width? Current set up is Schwalbe One 28 TLE, thinking of swapping the front tyre to a Schwalbe Pro One 25 TLE. My Hyper 50 has a 26mm external rim width #askgcntech

[@jared7586]

Thx for making this vid

[@emil7116]

#ASKGCNTECH Hi guys - i am currently trying to figure out what type of bikefit to get since i am having a bit of problems with a sore knee and neck. I have the choice between the IDmatch bikefit, and a regular old fashioned bikefit. There is a price difference of about 110 GBP, with the old fashioned bikefit being the most expensive. I am in no way a professional, i ride about 5-7 hours a week if that matters :-)

[@GazW17]

#AskGCNTech Hi Alex, Manon and Oli. We know latex tubes are lighter and have lower rolling resistance. We also know they deflate quicker than normal tubes. If I’m doing a century ride riding for 6-8 hours, should I be worried about pumping tires mid ride? How much PSI will I lose over the course of the ride? Is it worth the risk? Thanks!

[@ianiscaratti4924]

why don't you just mesure it yourself with your tire and true variabels instead of outsourcing the risk management deparement to gcn?

[@Shadwhand]

I rode a 400k recently without any issue on latex tubes. I'd be more concerned once you go into multi-day events >24h.

[@jankroken3881]

#AskGCNTech - Hi, regarding last weeks question (on spinning out on 53/11) - my preferred cadence is around 60 - or rather, I prefer do to 6-8w per rpm (and trying to stay above 300w). I *definitely* do not fly around above 50km/h all the time. I only do 90rpm for shorter sprints/uphills (at 6-700w).

[@chrisjepson8071]

Do you have a different definition of 'spinning out' than us? 60rpm at 53-11 is utterly ridiculous to consider as 'spinning'. This is Grinding, surely? But, genuinely interested in finding out the issue here???

[@jankroken3881]

@@chrisjepson8071 Spinning out as in not being able to pedal fast enough without compromising power - if I go at e.g. 55 km/h, I have to go at 90rpm, and I just can't maintain that for long, at least not with the power output I want.

[@ManuelMartinez09]

I'm not an expert but if you have the feeling of Spinning out at 90rpm you should work on your cadence rather than changing something on the bike. Please do it before trying crazy stuff like Zwift or any training app where 90rpm is considered not as high.

[@96golfcl]

@@jankroken3881 If thats the problem then you need to ride up hills

[@jankroken3881]

​@@ManuelMartinez09 I do have issues with zwift yes :( - had to turn off ergmode - if I slacked a bit uphills, it ended up more or less locking up

[@johnflynn4923]

I run Tubolito inner tubes on one set of wheels and Vittoria latex on another set of wheels. The Tubolitos hold pressure no problem while the Vittorias drop pressure noticeably, Tubolitos are harsher while the Vittorias are more comfy - it's a trade off depending on what you're aiming for, race speed or a balance of speed and comfort.

[@colinmcdonald2499]

6:02 Scwalbe Marathon series tires make flats a less than once a year occurance.

[@TheSpaceBrosShow]

And they ride fairly alright, for how durable they are

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

Hookless is a disaster; hookless benefits the wheel maker and detracts from the wheel user. Even Josh Poertner said it was a bad idea, an ex-Zipp guy! Can we move past this fad and start implementing wheel features that instead IMPROVE the riding experience?

[@Jacob99174]

Trek Emonda with carbon seat mast, feels great. However seat mast may be different story than carbon seatpost

[@larsmunch4536]

I also have an Emonda (SL6, 2017, with mechanical Ultegra 6800), so I have no choice.

[@Jacob99174]

@@larsmunch4536 I have a 2022 SL5 (with all my upgrades, probably an SL11 by now) which came with alloy seat mast. There is a noticeable difference in carbon for sure. Liking the carbon

[@WrathMania32]

#AskGCNTech Why is a power meter more accurate for measuring calories burned than a heart rate monitor? I understand that a power meter directly measures the work performed, which can then be converted to calories, whereas a heart rate monitor is only measuring the effect on the cardiovascular system from said effort. Therefore the power meter offers a more direct measurement. But wouldn’t the power meter leave out a metabolic factor, e.g. how efficient you are at performing the work required? In other words, wouldn’t, say, holding 300 Watts for an hour be a lot harder for someone who isn’t a pro, and because their body cannot use fuel as efficiently, they might burn a lot more calories to perform the same output?

[@MarkBurghouwt]

I’ve been riding for 2 years with latex tubes and real cheap pretty grippy tires and never gotten a flat lol. I also never ride with spare tubes so I’m very lucky i guess

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

The question re: spinning out 90% of the time in 53/11... that guy is a wart face troll, my friends. You handled the question beautifully nonetheless.

[@huggcycles1545]

#askgcntech afternoon Alex and Ollie (Manon, Connor), would I gain anything from changing my cheap lightweight carbon seatpost, to a USE Allien Aero carbon seatpost slightly heavier?! I ride a ti bike and found gains in aero wheels and bars?! Thanks in advance!

[@chicagoan]

We had 4 flats last year in our Tesla and I had one on my bike both doing around 5k miles. Maybe you have less construction near where you live though haha. Lots of random nails and screws around these parts.

[@Flinegard]

carbon is only beneficial in reducing weight, not adding comfort because something stiffer is inversely proportional to comfort

[@DavidtheDoom]

Is GP5000 TL even okay to run on Hookless? Is not the GP5000 S TR the model made for hookless?

[@jefferycampbell2243]

Correct. The sidewalls of my GP5000 TL tires are marked "mount only on hooked rims". I don't have the s TR version, but I believe that can be used on either hooked or hookless.

[@ianiscaratti4924]

Dear Ali Shafai I doubt that you have a lot of flats with conti 4 seasons on max pressure and if so. go for schwalbe marathon plus. they are heavy and ride like a disaster but they ere bulletproof. best Ianis

[@njbiker72]

#askgcntech. I have an old time trial bike that I still like. Recently the front derailleur mount broke. Because of the bike's age and the manufacturer no longer being in business, my local shop told me my options were find a used mount from that model bike (2008 Guru Chrono) or turn it into a 1x. A 1x would really be ok for most of the races, but probably could not get up the hills around my house if I went on a training ride. Any other thoughts? 3D printing? Or what could options be for turning it into a 1x?

[@johanp8391]

#AskGCNTech I am riding on Continental GP Attack/Force (22mm/24mm widths) clinchers They are still in good shape so I don't need to replace them. Our roads are very flat here in the southernmost part of Canada, but are often rough with a lot of broken pavement. I used to run my tire pressure at 115 to 120 psi, which on smooth pavement was great. With a view to the current trend towards wider tires and lower pressures, I am now down to 90 psi, and find it much more comfortable to ride. For reference I weigh 98 kg,. My questions are ... How low of pressure can I run before risking pinch flats? Is there a way of determining the pressure that yields minimum rolling resistance?

[@CourtneyHump]

I’m running a tubeless setup on my Trek Checkpoint gravel bike with carbon wheels and 40mm Maxxis Rambler tires. I typically run these at about 30-35 PSI. I’ve noticed that my rear tire always looks low/saggy/etc. (my front tire does the shame if I shift all it weight forward). Is this normal with the wider, low pressure gravel tires or do I need to add some air to round it out a bit. Also, do most of my riding on chunky gravel and chip/seal paved roads.

[@JoopLammerts]

If you don't want punctures, just ride indoors!

[@kurt1391]

My house is too small, and I tend to crash into things.

[@jankroken3881]

I haven't punctured even once for the last 20.000 km's (on bad roads). Running tubeless GP5000, pumping before every trip.

[@dyzoly]

Most of the comfort comes with the length of the post, but carbon also helps a little.

[@gcntech]

Yeah the longer the seat post the more compliant for sure!

[@diegoleiva7242]

#AskGCNTech Hey! I sadly bought a frame that's a bit too big for me, I shortened the stem and lengthwise I'm OK but even slamming it still gives me a too tall handlebar, less than an inch below the seat. I'm also quite slow compared to friends with other road bikes that actually fit them and have bigger drops from the seat, so they tuck a lot better than I do. Is the aero penalty really THAT significant for a weekend aficionado on flat-ish roads? Or I just suck?

[@dreimer2112]

You can gain ~120mm drop by riding in the drops all the time.

[@diegoleiva7242]

@@dreimer2112 got a bad neck, can't do that for a full ride my man. I'd like a more aero position on the hoods.

[@donberry-graham2135]

#ASKGCNTECK I sweat a lot and know I need sun screen on face but it always seems to get in my eyes. Is there a sun screen that is eye friendly?

[@yaacov9008]

I have the same problem in the summer. Not a direct solution but I wear one of those tennis wrist towel thingies so I can wipe my brow / eyes before getting stingy eyes. Not foolproof but potentially useful.

[@SpicyTrifongo]

wear a head band or a hat. . You can't stop the sweat coming from above your hair line with an antiperspirant.

[@matthewvelo]

Living in Australia, sunscreen is a must. However, wearing a cycling cap under my helmet and decent glasses means that I only need to apply sunscreen on my nose and cheeks so it never gets in my eyes. Give that a go mate.

[@bengt_axle]

There’s a product just for this a d it’s called Veo Strip. It works well. It is basically a well -chosen piece of rubber gasket or seal with a good adhesive, that acts as a rain gutter for your eyebrows and forehead, channeling off sweat to the side of your face. Looks a big weird but with helmet and glasses no one will notice!

[@dreimer2112]

@@matthewvelo That's my solution, too. No need for sunscreen above the eyes.

[@zedfourme5085]

I need some advice. I have a Huffy Kid's bike geared 70/9 and I keep spinning out. Any advice so I can more comfortably cruise at 55 miles per hour on the flats...

[@somethingsomethinggr]

Solution for that first guy, set the tyre pressure to 69.

[@crumbleyturnip]

I have a gravel bike with 2x11 GRX groupset which I'm predominantly using for road rides atm. Chainring is 46/30 and I have a 11/34 cassette. I'm finding I need some more gears top end and rarely find myself using the easiest gears unless on longer climbs. What am I better off replacing the rear cassette or the chainring? Pretty sure GRX is cross compatible with 105 but I have no idea what I'm better off replacing. I still use the small chainring for longer steeper climbs so I'm clueless. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏

[@jedisdad2265]

#ASKGCNTECH- My new Cervélo Aspero-5 has the Shimano GRX Di2 group set with 48/31 chainrings. Is there a 50 tooth option available for the GRX crankset? I have search the internet and can’t find one.

[@auchris9901]

#AskGCNTech When upgrading from the wheels that originally came with my bike, how do I determine if a new wheelset is better than what I already have? I am looking for a wheelset in the $500 range to put on a bike that was ~$1400 new and just don’t know what to look for.

[@roberterdei8627]

I wouldn't worry about upgrades if you don't know what you are even looking for in an upgrade. Not sure you could even upgrade wheels for $500, unless you meant $1500..?

[@livibam]

I have em on all my bikes.. purely for pimping points. Couldn’t care less about the comfort.

[@justicefuree3205]

what exactly has the car industry figured out , it's too different tires , cars still get flats , and there is no way to change it , you have to have a spare or sealant and a pump , car tires are also at 30 ish psi .