Do Flow Hives Work in Cold Climates? This is My Winter Method and setup. No Queen Excluder Method

Getting Honey Bees through cold snowy winters can be the ultimate challenge. In this video I share how I arrange my hives and leave the bees what they need to get through several snowy months every year. 8-frame and 10-frame Langstroth Hives can provide what your bees need.
YES, Flow-Hives can be used to keep honey bees on cold climates, this is how I accomplish that.
How to get your Flow Hive For Honey Bees through a snowy frozen winter wonderland in good shape. Flow Super, Flow Hive 7 Frame and Flow Hive 2 are all covered in this demonstration.
If you think a Flow Hive is for you, Flow Hive Discount Link for $50 off mbsy.co/hpFB2
AU - mbsy.co/zSDf9
EU - mbsy.co/zSDbm
Hive Top Feeder with wood shim: amzn.to/2ERRMo3
UPDATE: I now use an insulated inner cover on all of my Langstroth Style Hives, you can see that piece of equipment here: • Insulated Inner Cover ...
Rapid Round Feeder (fits inside the roof of the FlowHive 7 Frame):
amzn.to/2UACjQ9
BeeHive Entrance Gates/Vents: amzn.to/2u31qz8
Pest Management Swiffer Use only where they are out of bee worker reach: amzn.to/2VQGIP4
Insulated Hive Cover Shown: Available at BetterBee.com
My Favorite One-Piece Heavy Waxed Food Grade Plastic Frames: amzn.to/2EZTlS3
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@FrederickDunn]

See how to MAKE YOUR OWN Feeder Shim as shown here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGe6hKyPqJihp9U

[@FrederickDunn]

@Donald Martin Hi Donald, sorry I'm just seeing your comment. You can add medium supers with foundationless frames for bees wax and cut-comb if that's what you want. Also, if you want honey in the comb, I highly recommend Ross-Rounds and you can put that box on top of your flow-super if you have enough bees and a heavy nectar flow.

[@thehiveandthehoneybee9547]

If you asked me, I'd say I know pretty much all I need to about beekeeping. Then you come along and teach me something new every single time!!!! Impressive and I'm glad you are out there representing beekeepers and sensible practices! Keep it up!

[@58Kym]

Well that was certainly a very full and thorough explanation of getting bees through winter. Thank you Frederick!

[@FrederickDunn]

Always nice to see your comments Kym!

[@DavidWilliams-wr4wb]

Again, thank you so much for what you do for the bee community, your knowledge from practicality and research is priceless and the best detail on the Y tube ! 🙂

[@FrederickDunn]

Thanks, David!

[@mohammadsalah3319]

This an absolutely amazing video I think that the flow hive team could have never make a better video for their products. My flow hive 2 Cedar 6 frame is on its way to Egypt and I will start annoying you with my questions as soon as I start :) Thank you very much for your great support

[@eveglobalservices9281]

I am a beginner bee keeper November 2022. It would be nice to get a update of how the Flow hive has performed consideribg that Im about to order one for delivery to Rwanda

[@aaronlacy197]

Great info! I'm starting beekeeping this spring in Ohio, and this is the best video I have found so far to explain what I will have to do! Thank you!

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you Aaron, I'm so glad it was helpful and Ohio is a great State for beekeeping!

[@Bigjunior75]

Where in Ohio? How has it gone for you so far?

[@alyb731]

This is the best explanation of everything I need to know! I’m waiting for my first Nuc and I’m very excited and apprehensive at the same time, yours is the easiest to follow by far.🇬🇧

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you for this comment. I'm so glad you found this information useful :)

[@waynebrown6962]

As always 11/10 excellent work Frederick keep them coming mate.I sat on the fence for years until i came across the flow hive. long story short (Flow Hive Haters) without the flow hive i would never of become a beekeeper and added another 2 poly hives to the apiary. As far as being a lazy beekeeper Blue eyed beekeepers i have a beer with the bees nearly every night (summer in Australia) trying to learn as much as i can watching,reading, you tubing and asking questions to keep the colonies strong and healthy

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you Wayne, I appreciate that you took the time to watch and with you all the best with your bees.

[@johnmcneill923]

wayne brown ... gr8 idea of having a beer with your mates... bee they bees or whatever... cheers, Johno in The OC California.

[@trw481]

Fantastic information, Ohio weather is much like yours thanks for sharing

[@stgflt]

Thank you very much! I live in Swedish zone 4-5 and have been thinking about bee-keeping for a while, so this is pretty relevant. I found your channel this morning (google suggested another Flow video, didn't like that so I found yours). Being a bit ill today, I've spent the better part of today enjoying most of your your flow-related videos. Excellent quality in both production and content. Thanks again.

[@hugitim1]

Love this series! And your FAQ series. Thank you for the great info!

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you!

[@aaronlbuchanan9861]

Thank you so much Fredrick, this answered so many questions i had.

[@gregoryircink8797]

Thank you very much for your experience and advice. You make it look obvious, but it's not - you're telling us why you do what you do, and why you avoid what you don't do - bees not yet born will be fortunate that you have shared your knowledge.

[@stanislouse4168]

Great detail. Logical. Successful.

[@jklin2987]

As an aspiring Minnesota beekeeper, this is exactly the information I need. Thank you.

[@FrederickDunn]

I am so glad you liked it!

[@pathowlett4332]

Frederick, this was the "exact" information I need. As always... Thank you! you're making my 1st year as a beekeeper more confident.

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you Pat! It's so nice to know that I'm doing some good here :)

[@jakerkrahn1398]

This is the most informative flow hive video I've seen. It covered the things I wanted to know for our Manitoba, Canada winters. thank a million. hope to see more.

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you Jake! I am so glad it was helpful for you :)

[@jaymee.lee23]

What a fantastic video! I had so many questions when i bought my flow hive. especially being in Pa. purchased my flow hive 2 plus and in may i will have my nuc! Your videos were to the point and very informative.

[@danielweston9188]

These presentations are just right for me to share. Thank You

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you Daniel, that means a lot!

[@kretz130]

Thanks Frederick! This answers so many questions I had. I am in a beginner class this year getting ready to get started, but my instructor, while extremely knowledgeable, is very old school and doesn’t know anything about flowhives, and kind of gets irritated when I bring up flowhive haha. The KZbin’s are full of novice level beekeepers with flowhive. Your channel seems to be the best bridge between experienced beekeeping and new innovation. Thank you again for what you do!

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you so much and I'm happy to have helped! The beekeeping instructors in my area simply tell their students that "the flowhive is for advanced beekeepers only" Which simply means that they aren't prepared to answer questions related to the system. It really is no different than any other beekeeping regarding how to care for the bees. Keep asking questions of your instructor, you'll still get some valuable information no matter what hive design you are going to use :)

[@sonofthunder.]

liking the angled shim,on bottom board

[@devouring2772]

I plan on starting a hive this spring. Thanks for the info. Well i mean two hives. Was told two is better than just one

[@allyderaaf129]

Thank you for sending me this link!!!

[@FrederickDunn]

You're welcome :)

[@TheLyzardIAm]

Thank you for being an organized, smart, innovative, and useful human being. I very much enjoy how you present your videos, and the methods in which you conduct your experiments. Seriously, you are an amazing resource to all of us learning before we jump into this world of beekeeping, who want to be educated. A thousand thank you's!

[@FrederickDunn]

Wow Lyzette! Thank you, this could just be one of the best comments I've ever received. Much appreciated.

[@goblue2708]

This is exactly the type of information I needed!! As a first-time beekeeper, I'm excited, but also very apprehensive about getting started with this. I recently purchased the “knockoff” version of the Flow Hive. But, regardless of the source, I want a successful hive throughout the seasons. Being in the Michigan / Ohio area, I feel much better about getting the hive started this year. I have the same set up as your #2 example: 3 boxes (Deep Brood, Deep Honey Box & 7 Frame Flow Hive). Per your experience, I won’t feel so bad if I don’t get any honey for myself this year. I’m just as focused on the health of the hive anyway. I haven’t ordered my bees yet and wanted to ask you about that. There seems to be “3” popular choices of bees that I’m finding (Italian, Carolinian & Russian). I’ve read that the temperament from easiest to most aggressive is also in that order. I’ve also read that Carolinian bees have a strong resistance to colder climates, but they don’t recommend them for new beekeepers. In your experience, which bees would you recommend are best for the folks getting into this AND who are also in the cold climates? Thanks & I’m excited to be a new subscriber!!!

[@matthewmccormick2417]

Great presentation Thank You

[@FrederickDunn]

You are welcome!

[@sgradaigh]

Thank you for all this information, this has been so helpful.

[@FrederickDunn]

Glad it was helpful! I have started using double-bubble insulation inside all of the gabled outer covers and it's also working very well.

[@sgradaigh]

@@FrederickDunn ​Thank you for responding! I have been interested in beekeeping for many years. A year ago, our neighbor who had bees entered a nursing home. I asked his family if I could purchase his hives, but to my dismay, they burned them all. This year, I decided to buy myself a Flow Hive as a birthday and Christmas present. I have been watching videos and reading articles on how to keep bees and protect them during the winter. Recently, I came across a KZbinr criticizing the Flow Hive, which made me doubt my purchase. However, watching your channel has restored my confidence in it. I am planning to assemble the hive this weekend, but I have a question. Have you ever clear-stained your hive? You may have answered this question in one of your videos, but I have not had time to watch them all. Thank you!

[@alyb731]

@@sgradaigh Hi from the UK. My family bought me a flow hive for my 60th last February, I’ve finally got it assembled and have ordered my Nuc, due anytime soon. I don’t know how you treated your hive in the end but I treated mine with tung oil after watching another u tuber, I’m hoping it’s going to protect it. I’m interested to know how you are getting on with your hive?

[@sgradaigh]

Hi from east central Indiana, USA. I treated mine with Valspar one coat clear all weather defense, before I started watching Frederick Dunn, I watched this other guy who suggested that, I know Frederick Dunn uses a dip, I can’t remember the name it is in one of his videos. I painted the roof a with 3 coats of blue exterior paint. I am insulating my roof as suggested above, with double-bubble, we have cold windy winters. My first nuc should be here in about 10 days or so, I am so exited, I don’t feel ready, it is like having a baby. LOL When I install my nuc I will let you know. Best of luck with your nuc and hive.

[@wayne-oo]

Excellent video !

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you so much Wayne!

[@weasleoop]

It was a nice day today Fred so I planted four flowering quince and 4 saint johns wort in the bee yard.

[@FrederickDunn]

Sounds nice!

[@LadyHawke4eva]

Fabulous presentation. Very thorough on getting bees through Winter. Next step Id like to know is what to do when the colony expands and the brood boxes are full. I guess splitting is a Spring activity. Thanks again.

[@aganethabergen8879]

Oh man I thought that I would order myself a kit like that and put it by the fence and just go and collect a lot of honey a few months after, I didn't know that it was that much work, so Thank you for sharing!!

[@FrederickDunn]

You're welcome...

[@johndavis7868]

When he looked back at the camera i busted out laughing

[@RaySarasin]

I am different because a friend gave me all his old stuff which is in use today by bees (he is thrilled for this ) Everything I got was 10 frame deep boxes and frames. In short I want to be able to take any frame out and add it to any hive, so that being said I stick to 10 frame deep boxes I have got 2 other new boxes with frames. Now that being said I will keep to 10 frame deep box. I am in Canada where it get -40 with a wind. Last winter Feb was below -40 all month (see few old videos on my channel of temps in early morning) I now will winter with 3 deets on each hive 2 is good 3 is better. Now I may have better luck with 3 boxes per hive in winter adapt and adjust to your weather I say cheers

[@saleh67]

Thank you so much sir for all the information provided. I'm a huge fan and I watched so many of your videos to learn all I need about beekeeping. This video is one of the BEST I'm in Brooklyn New York (Dont think it's the best place for beekeeping) but I'm very eager and determine. I have a small backyard and would love to start beekeeping next spring. I need your full support and advices PLEASE I really appreciate it

[@phillipthomas253]

Virtually all the people I know who don't like Flow Hives have no experience with them...they just don't seem to like something different...if that's how they go through life, so be it.

[@FrederickDunn]

It's a puzzle to me, how polarizing the Flow-Method is among beekeepers. I haven't honestly figured out why some are actually angry about it. First hand experience has a way of calming some people down and softening many opinions. There are forums and clubs that "prohibit" Flow-Hive discussions and It's amazing to me still.

[@phillipthomas253]

@@FrederickDunn By the way, this was a very helpful video, down to earth, full of logical and helpful info. Appreciate all your efforts...you are making a difference.

[@esthersanchez2264]

Wow, love the innovative vent and entryway U designed for the bee's 🐝. I think it's a great addition to any hive. Also the use of the swiffer dust strips to catch the pest in the tray. One of the commenters asked if we'd want U for a neighbor. I'm very pleased to have U as a teacher thanks for sharing.

[@esthersanchez2264]

Looks to me that the Flow Hives made things easier for the bee's 🐝 and the beekeepers. Perhaps some people like all the extra labor or equipment.

[@starstables_and_SchleichHorse]

Thank you Fred, you have been a good resource for Flow Hive for folks like us in the Northeast/CNY area. We are first time beekeepers and chose to use the Flow Hive 2 Ten frame. We had incredible results this year and our bees yielded beautiful honey. I decided that they gave us enough honey for the year, that 2 weeks ago we put a super on with prepared frames so they could build their stores for the winter, gonna check them today. We have an abundance of fall flowers, apple trees and late bloom raspberries. We are enjoying all the bees working in our yard! If you read this, do we need to feed our bees also?

[@FrederickDunn]

That's all great news, Christine! Thank you for sharing how well things are going for you there :)

[@timothymitchell9956]

I was so excited about your FAQ last week that I thought Wednesday was Thursday in Japan. Looking forward to your live streaming.. will the flow supper work on your long Langstroth?

[@FrederickDunn]

I don't plan to put a flow-super on the long lang... we'll see what the future brings :)

[@cedainty]

This will be my first year raising bees. I am nearly 79 and have a bad back. The Flow Hive principle is very appealing and your tutorial is excellent. Thank you for putting it together. Have you a book that covers this subject? I really like books-- it's generational!

[@FrederickDunn]

HI Candace, if you want to avoid lifting, I highly suggest that you consider horizontal hive beekeeping. Have you visited the site horizontalhive.com/ you may find that this style suits you. They also have a great book titled: Beekeeping With A Smile.

[@garethpattinson2099]

Hi Fred had a couple of comments with u. Been waiting for a nuc for my flow hive to. But been in house were bees are for 30 years never seen bee swarm. I have 2 hives there and huge swarm flies in to day. Put nuc under them. On trunk so could not shake but first hand full had the queen. So atmo they are walking in. If they stay we will see. So happy lol

[@FrederickDunn]

Oh, that's great! Sounds like you've got them! Good situation for a bee vac!

[@garethpattinson2099]

@@FrederickDunn they left back to tree. But managed to get queen in a clip and she is now prisoner in the box. Take 2. See what the morning brings

[@FrederickDunn]

@@garethpattinson2099 Excellent!

[@v7e8n3e1z2u8e5l]

Amazing info. Very useful for new beekeepers like myself. One question, any concerns about condensation in Colorado-Front Range (Boulder-Longmont)?

[@FrederickDunn]

That's a question better asked among your local beekeepers as to what your climate impact is like. For me, condensation on hive interiors provides much-needed winter drinking water for the cluster. The key is to keep it from thawing and dripping directly on the cluster.

[@billbaskin4631]

Mr. Dunn, I tend to purchase from your links as a thank you for providing good information. You referenced items for 7 frame and 10 frame boxes. I purchased all of my stuff from Flow...8 frame boxes. And I purchased 8 frame mediums from the market. Are you able to reference products that fit 8 frame boxes also?

[@FrederickDunn]

blythewoodbeecompany.com/product/acorn-once-piece-plastic-beehive-frames/

[@sojourner57]

Fred, for sticky traps at the bottom, I would use a product called Double Nothing. It's hard to find and when I was working at my industrial design consultancy, we used it for making labels and other stuff. It's double-sided sticky material that is bounded by two release layers, on on either side. It can be cut to any size and laid in the bottom of your tray with sticky facing UP. It comes in 20"x24" sheets, if I remember correctly, as is extremely sticky, no mater what the temperature.

[@FrederickDunn]

Thanks Tony, I find the one sided sticky boards work and fit perfectly. I buy them in bulk packages :)

[@robinwalker6899]

Fred, love your videos and particularly this one. Very informative! I live in Mississippi and our winters are nothing compared to yours. Do you think we could use the Flow Hive as the immediate box on top of our deep, as the Australians do as you mentioned, to get our bees through winter? Thanks for your time. -Robin

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi Robin, welcome to my channel! If you live in an area where the bees are foraging year round and you are able to keep them going without a severe dearth period, then yes you can certainly just do the deep, queen excluder, then flow-super.... AND... possibly put a feeder on top if there comes a time when you need to feed.

[@michaelhall7921]

Hello Frederick.... I am thinking in front of the coming season. The bees are doing very well. A puzzle is the odd 5 1F/ 53F max day they are bringing pollen in =incredible. I got the feeling /hope that there will be an explosion in the colonies so I intend to put an additional shallow 10 frame on top of the deep and a shallow. I think that is what you did in the hope of preventing swarming? Or perhaps when I relook at your vids you may have used two deeps? When the honey is up in the upper shallow the Flow super can go on? I appreciate so much your expertise and also the fact that you modify your way of doing things if you discover any benefit by doing just that. There is so much to learn. I saw your message to Kaymon re the meeting with other astute bee lovers. I mentioned that between the fumes and the strips =varroa is dead........ However the guard is never down. Best Wishes and success for this coming season.

[@FrederickDunn]

Yes, when that medium super is nearly full, it's time for the Flow-Super to go on :) and thanks!

[@anttikarttunen1126]

Thanks a lot!, this is the most informative video about the "general stacking strategy" for northern climes I have seen so far. A few questions: In which state of US you are located in? And do you know what is the northernmost place where Flow Hives have been successfully used? What to do if the end of harvesting season comes by surprise, and one has to empty the flow frames when they are still uncapped and remove the flow super in emergency, to make space for feeding and treatments? (mead?) And is there anything particular one should do to the flow frames in winter time, except store them in a pest-free cool place?

[@FrederickDunn]

Here is my entire flowhive playlist. I've answered all of your questions in these videos. They are pulled off for winter and cleaned up at my feeding station prior to going into storage. Perfect for making mead! :) That video is coming out soon :) kzbin.info/aero/PL0BtJyPt4SZ9UKIPrEMWF2NcJJLzFro_r

[@gordonlassen2626]

Fred, Thanks for an excellent synopsis for winter preparation with the Flow Hive. I didn't see a definitive answer to a couple of winter questions I have for my flow hives: 1) what is your recommendation for insulation with a gable roof 2) how much would you tilt the entire hive for condensation control? Thanks. Gordon Lassen

[@FrederickDunn]

1 degree tilt towards the landing board. I remove the Flow-covers and replace them with BeeMax insulated covers for winter.

[@cpreston1134]

Great job Fred...I am a beginner with 2 flow hives in southeast PA. Your videos have already helped me navigate. Why doesn’t the rapid round fit in a flow hive 2 - too high or too wide for the roof? Thanks again...

[@FrederickDunn]

The Flow-Hive2 (six frame version) has a small upper cavity beneath the roof and it sits too low to accommodate the rapid round. If the sidewalls of the FlowHive2 roof were just 2" taller, then more feeding options would be possible. Right now, it's too low. The 7 frame FlowHive Roofs are just perfect with no extra to spare.

[@mahaleyjr]

Fred another outstanding video. Definitely answered some of my questions I directed toward you the other day. I have ordered several Flow Hive 2 Cedar 6 Frame and after six weeks they should be here next week. ***In the efforts of expediency and since the FH2 Cedar 6 does not allow the space in the gabled Roof as you indicated in this video, outside of making my own feeder shim as you have done, do you have another recommendation of a application I could use as a Top Feeder box or Feeder Shim to accommodate the rapid feeders? I am a bit confused as I looked up the dimensions of the FH2 Cedar 6 and as you can see from the chart below there are three different variants?????? I assume I will get the FLOW HIVE 2 CEDAR 6 I could obviously order another several FH 2 Cedar 6 Brood boxes to use as feeder boxes but I am afraid they would not be here in time. ***Can you make a recommendation of where I can order Medium Super or Box I could use as the top feeder shim/box I can order immediately? My Local honey bee supplier should have my Nucs ready within 2 weeks. ***Does Ceracell make a top feeder than would fit on the FH2 Cedar 6? ***Does a Ceracell top feeder allow for ventilation? Or could you retrofit then lick you have done with the Rapid Feeders (Shims)? Thanks Fred. Great to have you as a resource out there. It is hard to plan in a vacuum and not having my hands on a FH2 Cedar makes it difficult to do that planning. And of course as a U.S. Marine I am trying to establish the right Coarse of Actions and having all the things needed to be successful right off the bat with the proper planning.....i.e. equipment, feeding, etc.... Obviously all this long before I can enjoy the honey myself. Tanks again Fred Mark External Measurements Length Width Height Flow Hive Classic Cedar 6 US 505 mm / 19.9 in 355 mm / 13.98 in 245 mm / 9.65 in Flow Hive Classic Cedar 6 AU 502 mm / 19.76 in 351 mm / 13.82 in 245 mm / 9.65 in Flow Hive 2 Cedar 6 500 mm / 19.69 in 350 mm / 13.78 in 245 mm / 9.65 in

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi Mark, you can get the 8- frame Ceracell shim/feeder which will match the 6-Frame (Langstroth 8) - set it on the inner cover that comes with the FH2 and then just put the gable roof on the Ceracell frame. Please let me know if there are any problems with that configuration - I need to grab on and evaluate it on the FH2 6-frame... blythewoodbeecompany.com/product/ceracell-2-5-gallon-top-feeder/ Tell them Frederick Dunn sent you :)

[@bradgoliphant]

What a great and helpful video Frederick. I can only imagine how many beekeepers could use this help. I have a couple questions. I have two double deeps completely built out this year and got my bees on March 20th. They filled these two deeps ups FAST! Now that the Flow Super is on, would you recommend waiting until Sept to extract the Flow Frames? Or at least till they are all full? Also, I follow your winter setup, but you don't wrap your hives at all? Why? Do you bees live through hard winters without being wrapped? Thanks as always. Oh, one more think. Any idea were to get cheap cotton bee suits? Not the ventilated.

[@FrederickDunn]

Cheap cotton bee suits at honeyflow.com they are great and around $100. As for wrapping the hives, I don't do that at all because I already have far too many bees in spring and they just don't seem to need it at all. Well fit woodenware that doesn't leak air is all that's necessary. I do use insulated inner covers as of last year and will continue with that. Even 5 frame nucleus hives have come through winter weather here swimmingly without any wrap at all. If they consumed all of their stored resources, or appeared stressed in spring, or demonstrated low numbers as spring arrived, I'd definitely consider extending wraps or insulation down the sides but they just don't need it. Wall to wall bees without insulation or weather wrapping. Single entrance, no top venting.

[@paulisbees1019]

this video just came in perfect time! i‘m starting beekeeping with a flowhive in sweden! 😅 learnt so much from your videos already fredrick! can‘t wait for our girls to arrive. i have one question though, like you said i probably won‘t use the flowframes in my first year, but i f you happen to have them taken off for winter, how excactly do you clean them? i assume putting them in front of the hive and let the bees do their work helps, but do you clean them manually as well, and if so how, centrifuging? warm water? so many questions 😅

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi Sebastian, I'm so glad to know that my videos are helping you out! As for cleaning up frames with honey left on them, I have a robbing station where I place honey covered utensils and frames for the bees to clean up. They do it fast and are thorough, plus they disinfect with their tongues as they go. Then the boxes with the frames for next year go into my bee-shed for winter storage. It's very easy. IF I need to clean up flow frames, I have a power washer also but haven't had to use that.

[@logicaldad1917]

Frederick, great channel. One thing I've not seen discussed on your channel or on the Flow Hive videos regarding cold climates... Do the flow frames themselves tolerate cold temps like -20F? Assuming the hive is clustered in the bottom brood box and you have another box between them and the flow super it is likely the flow super will be really cold. So, ignoring getting the bees through the winter, will the flow frame make it through the winter or do they need to be brought in?

[@FrederickDunn]

All of my flow-supers are stored in unheated buildings. There is no degradation of material when exposed to those cold temperatures. I would be more concerned with High Storage Temperatures in desert climates. Low temps no problems as they are not being cycled, just sitting static.

[@mikelindner1134]

This might be a silly question but in the interest of trying to make a great first year harvest of honey.... Would you recommend adding the additional super on top of the brood box before adding the Flow Super earlier in the year? I'm getting ready to get started here soon and pick up both a new Flow Hive 2 (probably will go with the 7 frame version) and I like the idea of adding the drawn comb to the brood box to help get things moving.

[@FrederickDunn]

Yes, absolutely, and I hope you used the discount code in the video description for your FlowHive :)

[@monicasawyer]

Fred, I just found your video. I’m in Garret County MD. I’ve got a two flow hive 2 8 frames. My bees are doing great, I added the supper in July, and I’m about to do my first extraction. Can I add a medium supper between the brood and flow frames, in hopes that they fill that medium box with honey for October so they have enough for the winter?

[@FrederickDunn]

Yes, that is exactly what I do here. Single Deep brood box, then a medium super that they store up for winter and then... the Flow-Super for any surplus that they store away. My Flow-related videos are here: www.fredsfinefowl.com/theflowhiveexperience.html

[@karlc1952]

Frederick, do you wash the flow hives & store them over winter. I assume if you just left them, the left over honey would go candy?? Great presentation. Thank you.

[@FrederickDunn]

Yes, the flow-supers are always removed after the last draw-off and the bees have licked them clean.

[@technodruid]

Hey Fred, I live in Ottawa, we frequently see -20 and -30 C winters (~0 to -20 F) that are dry and very windy. Would it be the safest bet to go with the deeper second super? low 20s usually start early-mid november. Last frost can be as late as mid April.

[@FrederickDunn]

Sounds like a double deep is warranted in that environment. Wow... you're going to need some fat winter bees :)

[@nathanaelszafranski3952]

My colony has spilled brood into the second deep in addition to the honey. I anticipate them filling the honey super above that, but little else their first year. I might spring for the flow supers though in the future! Do you swap the screen reducers on the front with solid pieces to further insulate against the cold?

[@FrederickDunn]

I don't swap the bottom reducers for winter, I just close off the back vent portion.

[@sojourner57]

Fred, when you build your own woodwork, you mentioned sealing all of the points to protect against pests; do you use hot-melt glue or what?

[@FrederickDunn]

I seal the joints and corners with 100% silicone sealer - sometimes I use hot-glue as place holder to "tack" the pieces in position.

[@MarekArawn]

Hey @Frederick Dunn, Rewatching this video I noticed something that continuously confuses me: at 33:50 you add the inner cover, then place the hive top on it to protect. But there is a (ventilation) hole in the inner cover - won't the bees access that space and start building comb?

[@FrederickDunn]

Sorry, there is a wooden plug for that hole and you can put that in. BUT, during winter, they won't go up there to build comb until the warmup :)

[@6Deep6]

Excellent video Fred - thank you very much. I am still undecided between the flow hive or not. Love everything about it except the cost. Because it is expensive, I am concerned if you managed to contract AFB, you would have to burn the entire thing, right?

[@FrederickDunn]

There is a regimen that is prescribed for AFB, however, personally, I will burn everything to be sure as I have no plan to be a part or propagating AFB.

[@6Deep6]

@@FrederickDunn Thanks for the reply Fred and I hear you about not wanting to propagate AFB. I know its a rare occurrence, but this is a risk towards choosing FlowHive for me.

[@billbaskin4631]

Thank you for the explanation. Very helpful. Can you recommend a supplier for medium frames constructed like the suggested deep frames?

[@FrederickDunn]

HI Bill, thank you! Are you asking about medium "frames" or the boxes they go in? I have a link to the waxed frames in the video description. The boxes that are not from FlowHive which I show in this video are from Mann Lake, I can add that link to the video description also, I think they are easy to find on the MannLake website also. I hope that helps :)

[@billbaskin4631]

Frederick Dunn Sir, I am talking about frames. I followed the link but they only showed deep sized frames.

[@FrederickDunn]

@@billbaskin4631 That's lame... let me look around a bit :)

[@FrederickDunn]

Here they are, tell the seller that I sent you ;) blythewoodbeecompany.com/product/acorn-once-piece-plastic-beehive-frames/

[@billbaskin4631]

Frederick Dunn I will do that, thank you. Question...in another video you used the rapid feeder raised on blocks, explaining it gave bees access to the area to protect from pests. In this video the feeders were placed flush with the cover. May I ask what it is I missed in comparing the two presentations? Sorry, I’m confused.

[@johnmcneill923]

Wonderful video, Fred. Qn: when bees produce Royal Jelly to feed queen do they concentrate that in one area of comb? It is probably against your principals to harvest but RJ has significant health benefits according to Traditional Chinese Medicine(TCM). Thoughts appreciated!

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi John, they don't store royal jelly, they make it themselves from pollen, nectar and their own glands as they continuously put it in all of the developing larva cells. Every developing bee is fed royal jelly, it's just that they overload those developing queens with it while they restrict the amount for workers. People who harvest royal jelly are sucking it out of the cells with larva in them. I know that there is a demand for it. So glad you liked the video!

[@johnmcneill923]

Frederick Dunn ... Hi Fred... thanks for clearing that up!

[@stevecastellanos6707]

Hi Fred. Excellent video, filled with information that I will put into practice next year! I currently own the Flow Hive 2 that I added a Nuc to in in mid May and so far things have been going very well with the bees busy working to fill the flow frames. After watching your video I am concerned that the bees won’t have enough honey stores to survive winter so plan to leave the Flow Super on as their winter food source. I have two questions about this approach knowing that this is a temporary solution as next year I plan to move to the approach you show in your video and add the medium super as a “honey bridge” between the brood box and the Flow Super. So my question is whether or not this is the best transition strategy or do you have other suggestions. Thanks again for all the great work!!

[@FrederickDunn]

I would remove the flow-super - you don't want the honey to solidify in the frames - it's better to leave supers on that don't have flow frames in them.

[@stevecastellanos6707]

Frederick Dunn Just what I needed to know. Thanks! We are located in Southern Oregon where the flow will continue for another couple of weeks. Do you feel I still have time to replace the Flow super with a medium super that can be filled in time for wintering the bees?

[@FrederickDunn]

@@stevecastellanos6707 You have nothing to lose by replacing that now :) they just may surprise you!

[@hhardwick3]

Hi Fred- GREAT video! I will have my first hive this year and my question is about feeding syrup- you mentioned it’s 1:1, which to a cook like me is a “simple syrup” and watching here with my chef brain activated I am wondering, could I make my bees an infused simple syrup that would then become a delicious flavored honey (I am thinking lavender, basil, etc)?

[@FrederickDunn]

You're out of my league on that one Heidi... the goal is not to feed the bees unless they are taking on nectar that will be honey for them, not for us. So during periods of a nectar flow, they are not fed by the beekeeper and this provides us with floral sourced honey. We only feed syrup during periods of dearth and after honey is drawn off in the late summer. Even essential oils are "by lable" not to be used when honey supers are on.

[@hhardwick3]

Fred- I am not an “essential oil” type person, I am thinking bees might even prefer a flavored treat (says the woman who turned otherwise not very domestic black angus bulls in to snuggle pets) much the way they prefer water with minerals, and I might get a little benefit too :) Maybe it’s just MY preference for a simple basil syrup on tea or bourbon talking!

[@mimib3396]

You've mentioned that you pressure-wash the flow frames before storing them for the winter. How much pressure are you using? Are you knocking off the wax? Or are you just rinsing out the crystallized honey from inside the frames? I'm definitely going to try it as I've noticed the frames are getting quite gunked up after 3 summers of use. As always, thanks for the videos!

[@FrederickDunn]

leaving the wax and propolis as much as possible and just making sure all "sweetness" is removed.

[@kapppz]

Do think putting a high-tunnel greenhouse over the hive, maybe at the end of October, would shield from the coldest months, taking it down end of March?. I'm in West Central Wisconsin.

[@FrederickDunn]

I don't think that would be worth the effort.

[@karenbytherideau]

Excellent information! I was so excited abound the rounds fitting with the roof of the flow hive 2, but then I watched the rest of the video and my flow hive 2 is an 8. Are you by chance selling the separators you made that remedy this for me? (Pretty please!)

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi Karen, it's so nice to see a comment from you again! I'm sorry to say that I don't sell those feeding shims as they are way too heavy. Thick solid maple isn't a good marketing design I'm afraid. I will be explaining exactly how I make them in my FAQ video #9. Several of my viewers have asked, so I'm going to do one step by step.

[@karenbytherideau]

Frederick Dunn great! Looking forward to it! I’m catching up on videos- we tried to get away from all of the cold weather up here as much as possible. Way too cold this winter!

[@karenbytherideau]

My husband made this video during our travels on my iPhone, which was inspired by some of your slow motion bird videos... kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3i6l36ln8ije8U

[@FrederickDunn]

@@karenbytherideau I don't blame you, what part of the country are you in? Are you in my area?

[@karenbytherideau]

Frederick Dunn We are in Ottawa Canada area. Ottawa was deemed the coldest capital in the world this year.🙄

[@stevebachman6661]

When starting out and only giving the hive my deep brood box first, once that is filled, would I then want to put a queen excluder between my filled brood box and the next box for the bees to fill for their own winter stores of honey? Is it necessary to keep the queen from laying eggs in their own bee honey?

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi Steve, only if you will be harvesting honey from that second box. If that will be for wintering then no need to put the queen excluder on until you're going to put on. They will fill that second box with some brood, but mostly honey.

[@stgermain1074]

Am I right in thinking that, besides honey collection method, this is the way you'd recommend for starting up any new hive, whether flow frame or traditional honey extraction? Also, along with your idea of not giving too much space, if you have a nuc, would you recommend keeping them in a 5 frame nuc box until they're filling that up?

[@FrederickDunn]

This is a frequent question and my answer really depends on how much disposable income people have. For those starting up, if they know for sure that they will continue with bees, then yes, just get a full flowhive set. I started with the Flow-Super back when I supported their fundraising campaign, but that's because I already had an apiary with Langstroth equipment. As for NUC Boxes, my personal preference is not to use them at all. For example, last year, I just pulled four brood frames from populated hives and transferred them right into full size, full depth brood boxes - 8 & 10 frame. That way, they are settled and simply expand without having to be transplanted again. NUC boxes really only serve the sellers of bees, not an advantage to the end recipient of the bees. I'm adding this to my next Q&A...

[@bikingforbees]

Hello, thank you for the video. Why can’t you leave the flow frames as honey resource over the winter?

[@FrederickDunn]

Because you have to remove the queen excluder and then the queen will lay in the flow-frames which we'd like to avoid.

[@bikingforbees]

@@FrederickDunn thanks for the speedy reply! Ok, it’s not that the honey is more likely to solidify in the plastic than the wax over winter or anything? I was worried it would be something detrimental to the bees! Good to know, next year I will do as you suggest but unfortunately it’s too late for this year as I’d planned on the flow frames being their stores. I have a skinny queen who got into my flow frames over the summer. I put in a new excluder and waited three weeks. Then all was ok so I guess I’ll just need to repeat the process. Thank you so much for your time.

[@BCTCanadian]

Thank you for a wonderful video. You may have addressed this in another video, so feel free to redirect me. Once you remove the flow supers for winter, how do you clean them? I believe you said you'd leave them outside for awhile and let the bees do it. Other than that how do you clean and prepare them for the following spring? All the best from Ontario, Canada.

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi Brian, please watch my FAQ#14 coming out TODAY :) I will add your question to my responses and I'll explain what I'm doing with my oldest FlowHive-Super. I'll also address how I've managed them so far. Thank you for watching and taking time to comment.

[@BCTCanadian]

@@FrederickDunn Excellent, I will stay tuned. Thank you!

[@FrederickDunn]

@@BCTCanadian LIVE at 6 pm Eastern Standard Time :)

[@timothymitchell9956]

I forgot to ask about your essential oils. Which ones specifically do you use , for feeding bees or in general?

[@FrederickDunn]

FAQ 49.... thanks Timothy

[@nile1929]

Hi Frederick, I noticed that Flow Hive now has a 7/10 frame in the Hive 2. As it pertains to getting through winter, have you tried this size and compared the results to your 6/8 Hive 2? I am located in zone 6b vs your zone 4, but the winters can get bad.

[@FrederickDunn]

HI Kyle, I have the 7 frame and 6 frame FH2 units and I think I will talk about this on Friday during the next Q&A as the 6 frame units seem to make it just as well as the 7... I'll talk more, thanks for asking!

[@hitmc6327]

How do you clean your Flow super to prepare it for winter off the hive? Also, do you cover it, to keep pests out of it while it's in storage? If you don't use a queen excluder, and, for whatever reason, the queen does manage to lay eggs in your Flow super, how do you recover that super for honey use after that? Thank you so much for your videos. They are extremely helpful, and full of invaluable information.

[@FrederickDunn]

After final extraction prior to winter, I put the flow-super out at my feeding station for a final cleanup on good sunny days. After that, the frames go right back in the super for stacked storage in a un-heated building. No issues with pests in storage. IF your queen does get up into your flow-frames and lays eggs in the cells, you probably need to change your configuration to remove top venting, and not upper entrance. Then, once you're sure your queen is down below the flow-super, install the queen excluder and permit the brood to complete their cycle and then you are back in business. They will clear the cells on their own and I haven't observed any brood development residue, and if it did exist it wouldn't stop the cells from being used for honey and the frames cycled as before when honey is capped. Since I've used the deep box, with a full honey super over that, and then installing the Flow-Super, I have not had any incidents with the queen laying eggs up in that flow-super. NOTE, if the brood in the flow-super turns out to be drone larvae, you'll have to remove those frames and let the birds eat them. With the queen excluder in place and no upper entrance, drones would not be able to escape.

[@hitmc6327]

Thank you very much for taking the time to give such a comprehensive answer. I really appreciate it and value the information you share.

[@kyleregister8539]

Hi Fred, I’m trying to figure out the best setup to have an upper entrance / ventilation on my new Flow 2, thinking ahead for later this summer. I’m thinking of putting a small (~ 3”) plastic circular entrance gate on the shim that’s included with the Ceracell top feeder. Once I have my Flow Super on, which might not even be this year, and am no longer feeding them, I’d use the shim on top of the inner cover (plug removed) to allow access for foragers and for ventilation. The circular gate would allow me to close the entrance in the event of robbing while still allowing for ventilation and the smaller size diameter should fit the Ceracell shim height. I’m attempting an adaption of your custom rough lumbar feeder / entrance. What do you think of this plan? Any edits? Thanks.

[@FrederickDunn]

Thanks for that question Kyle, I'll discuss it during today's FAQ session.

[@suesteward]

Where can I purchase the top you made for the rapid round feeder?

[@FrederickDunn]

It's called a feeder shim and I have a video showing how to make them. I don't know of any being sold.

[@jackuul]

Thank you so much for the great video! I have a couple of questions regarding climate and bees. Here in the foothills of Colorado (between Denver and Ft Collins) we do have some pretty cold winters, with a lot of variability in temperature (from 60F to -5 some days) during our winter seasons. With this kind of climate would it be best to use the full size box instead of the medium? Second question, would the Carniolan bee be a better choice for this kind of climate (we range from 6a to 5a)? Third, do you plan to share or sell the designs to your custom feeder box design? Lastly, is it better to be more "hands on" with the hive so they get "used" to you, or is that not a major concern (i.e. every day vs once a week vs every other week) for inspections etc. I've not got bees yet, but once I own my own home I plan to start with a single hive, and I'd like to make sure that I start out on the right path. Thanks! Your videos are truly an inspiration to someone (like me) who wants to eventually have happy healthy bees one day.

[@weasleoop]

I have lived in Colorado Springs and I kept bees there. I did two deeps. The Carniolan bees would suit you well since they originally from the mountains on the eastern side of the Alps, like Hungary, or Bulgaria. It is suited for a cooler climate. The Carns can also be very docile, and quiet, and are usually very good temperament. However the Carns can have explosive early spring buildup at the first sign of pollen. They also tend to slow down brood production when there is less food. They also tend to have smaller clusters than other bees and use less winter stores. They are so explosive in the spring though that I have seen people do swarm prevention steps on a warm day in December to keep them from swarming because they are running out of room. So I would learn swarm prevention management especially if you live in city limits or your swarm might end up on a neighbors house or dog house, or on their car and they tend to frown on that. lol. It is really not the bees getting use to you, it is you getting use to them. You need to learn their temperament. Usually they tend to ignore you unless you are doing something wrong or opening the hive in the wrong part of the day or on a rainy or cold day. I usually only open my hives twice per month. But it all depends on what is going on, time of year, new hive or established hive, or if I am addressing or inspecting something. Also do not start with a single hive. You want to start with 2 if possible. So you can compare the two. One hive might have issues and you think that is the norm. Plus if you lose a hive you still have one left.

[@FrederickDunn]

Thank you for the wonderful compliment! The medium or double-deep boxes will be a matter of what you are willing to lift and how productive your bees are. Regarding the type of honeybee you may want to use in your region, checking in with local beekeepers may go a long way to helping you make that decision. I personally always consider how much the bees will depend on human intervention (treatments) to survive and resist pests. Italians and Corniolans would both do well in your location. I will add your "frequency of inspection" question to my next FAQ video! My feeder shim-bottom board design is something I will be sharing more about this spring and summer as the bees use it. I can post a drawing on my website if you think that's helpful, I will just be giving that information out, nothing to sell :)

[@weasleoop]

@@FrederickDunn There are feeder shims out there to buy, e.g. vivaldi boards, but Fred yet again has the best one because of the rotating entrance selector. Fred shows you where to get one of course. He is just super handy and technical. He built his own house. If I tried to build my own house it would fall down on me in one day lol.

[@MarekArawn]

Hey Frederick, it's me again. I'm not sure where to ask this question, so I'll post it here: Have you tried the Northern European Beehive (high density 100 kg/m3 polystyrene)? I bought one last (late) summer - after an accidental hive separation - and it seems to have been a good home over the winter. If you've tried it, did you try it with a flow hive super? Thanks!

[@FrederickDunn]

HI Marek, I have several of their polystyrene covers but have avoided the entire bodies for two reasons - 1) my chickens eat them! 2) they aren't recyclable and end up as land fill. I'm also adding this one to my FAQ because it is a common question.

[@ajkillam1]

Hello, questionwith flowhives, can you get bulk wax for crafts?

[@FrederickDunn]

You can add other supers aside from the flow-supers and as the years progress when you retire frames, salvage the bees wax from those :)

[@stevebachman6661]

Will you please give me the front and back height measurements of the tilting back shim between the bottom board and brood box? I have to make my own due to financial constraints. I'll only be able to afford the flow super this year.

[@FrederickDunn]

The side shims on the bottom board are 1 and 1/4 inches at the front and taper down to 1/4 at the back. The front side to side entry shim is 3/4" the full width. The front landing board is angled down to off set the backward tilt angle. I hope that helps you out Steve!

[@jaymee.lee23]

I was watching a flow hive video and there was a question about adding another box for brood, he wanted to know where to put the 2nd box, they mentioned that it could be tough to use frams for the bees to draw out combs... my question is in Pa, I'm in south eastern part... when adding a second box to load with honey for them,, what do you suggest to use for the frames? I have bought a second large box from flow and frames are for the bees to draw out. Flow mentioned it could be harder for the second box for the bees to make a comb. Do you agree? Should I not use these frames for my second box for honey?

[@FrederickDunn]

I have an entire Flow-Hive video series as a playlist. You can use the deep brood box and as that fills, use a medium for that little extra brood and then honey. I leave all of that for them. The third box is usually the Flow-Super. On some occasions, I may use two medium honey supers on top of that bottom brood box and then the Flow-Super. It's easy to do, but flow doesn't make medium boxes, so you have to get your own, orrrr buy another brood box and cut it down as a medium super and use the bottom portion you've cut off as a feeder shim on top :)

[@Olapix]

Hello! How did you get a windowed brood box for you FH2?

[@FrederickDunn]

They were being sold separately and I bought two of them :)

[@dptoivonen]

You mentioned you get bee weaver bees from texas, and you said you were from the great lakes area...how are you getting your bees? Are you driving down there or does a local bee supply get them from there?

[@FrederickDunn]

I fly in the Queens and make splits or install the queens after a swarmout. It's an easy way to control the genetics. Queens come in by priority mail.

[@tetonsandbeyonddogsledding]

My Flow Hive 2+ doesn't have viewing windows in the brood box. Is this something that they have changed?

[@FrederickDunn]

Yes, it was part of an early release that they did not continue, I have several of them but I don't think you're missing much without them. Some thought I just put my hive together incorrectly, but I just happened to get them during that narrow window of availability.

[@stgermain1074]

If you have a deep honey super for the bees, are you still likely to have to feed them through the winter? I thought the extra resources in that box should get them through.

[@FrederickDunn]

All that is, is an emergency feed resource just in case. It's been my experience that my bees do not use up their stored honey unless they are a young colony going into winter. I've never had a colony of any size, completely consume their deep box resources and have had plenty remaining in the following spring. IT's insurance, better to have it and not need it. Even this year, my largest colony has only consumed 1/2 of their available stored honey.

[@thebrickhouse8926]

My husband set up his flow hive with brooder box and flow hive sitting on top. Now I am reading about winterizing and it says we should have put a medium super in between. Are our bees going to be ok with just the brooder box and 10 frame flow hive and feeder box on top? We are also thinking of wrapping it somehow. Any ideas? We live in Indiana.

[@FrederickDunn]

For flow hives, just as I show in this video. The Deep brood box remains and is the starter of the hive. When that's full or 90% full, a medium honey super is put on. When that's 80-90% full and if the nectar flow is still on, then the Flow-Super is put on. It's reversed at the end of the productive season. Remove the Flow-Super and leave the full medium super on and the brood box down below. Put an insulated inner cover on the top with a feeder shim so you can offer any emergency rations you choose to. When spring comes along, it starts all over again :)

[@thebrickhouse8926]

@FrederickDunn Thanks, but we followed the instructions from the Flow Hive and never put a medium super on and it is October now and I am worried the bees will not survive. We never took off any honey, as this year was our first year. Can the flow hive portion serve as the medium super this winter and we put the round robin feeder in the top and wrap the whole hive except for the holes in insulation? Then we will know better next year.

[@wendake215]

Hi Frederick ! got 2 questions about this video : - you mention that the medium super will act as a "honey" barrier between the brood box and super flow so the queen won't lay eggs in the super flow. If the colony is strong enough in the first year and the queen is lacking space in the deep brood box could she decide to lay eggs in the the medium super ? In that case does an extra medium super would be required to act as a barrier or simply add a queen excluder ? - at 19:29 you say that you want to take off the super flow after harvesting honey in september to reduce the hive size for winter. Once you've extracted the honey in the super flow, what is the process to get the bees in the super flow into the reduced hive ? Is it possible to collect wax on the super flow frame even though the wax cap are broken after extraction ? Thanks again for all the great content !

[@FrederickDunn]

Yes, you need to keep adding medium supers until at least one is nothing but honey and it's been capped prior to putting on the flow-super. This only works if you do not have any upper venting and no upper entrances. When it's time to remove the flow super, I put a bee escape under it for 24 hours and then remove the flow super for winter and final harvesting. The bees will rise through the stored honey as winter progresses and then as spring arrives, they will most often continue back down to the entrance with brood production and back-fill with honey/nectar as they go.

[@noneofurbizniz933]

Hi Frederick would the top round feeder fit a Flow Hive 2 cedar 6 frame hive ? Im looking for Too round feeder that i can put right underneath the roof... the diameter of the 7 frame flow hime wouldn’t fit in the Flow hive 2. Any suggestions!!! Thank you

[@FrederickDunn]

I have started putting a 2" shim just under the Flow-Hive Roof and that's enough lift to accomodate the rapid round in either 6 or 7 frame flowhive. Orrr... put a full feeder shim on them: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGe6hKyPqJihp9U

[@noneofurbizniz933]

Frederick Dunn thanks Frederick, its hard to believe nobody has tried to 3d print a top feeder that fits under that 6 frame flow hive top.

[@FrederickDunn]

@@noneofurbizniz933 the first person to make one will sell out! :)

[@jaymee.lee23]

What can we use to feed the bees if we are using a flow hive 2 plus. Do you have the build and measurements for your feed box?

[@FrederickDunn]

You have to put a feeder shim on top of the flow-super to accomodate feeders. As is, it's not giving us enough space for anything other than fondant etc...

[@jaymee.lee23]

@@FrederickDunn completely understand. Thank you for the response.

[@thinless4439]

Should you wait until all ten frames are filled before you add the second box to the first one?

[@FrederickDunn]

Don't wait, as they fill most of those frames add another box, they can build up fast.

[@pompeii1275]

I have a question about the Flow 2. I'm about to add a nuc into a Flow hive and everyone recommends reducing entrance until they get situated. Is an entrance reducer needed, if so how do you do it with the metal screen plate?

[@FrederickDunn]

I just use rolled sections of window screen and insert them into the entrance on each side, leaving a 1 to 2 inch wide entry. Look at 47:50 in the video.

[@pompeii1275]

@@FrederickDunn Thank you, guess I didnt pay enough attention.

[@FrederickDunn]

@@pompeii1275 No problem at all :)

[@lincqimiq5265]

I have 8 super boxed I should put 2 flow hive on 6 boxed and remove 2 super boxes with wooden frames ??

[@FrederickDunn]

I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you asking about the brood boxes having wooden frames, or the medium super? That's personal preference since the brood box and first super are for the bees themselves, they could be wooden without foundation, or with inserts. Then put your flow-super above those once the lower boxes are almost full.

[@lincqimiq5265]

@@FrederickDunn I edit my message because I tired sleepy !

[@stevebachman6661]

What product did you use to seal the joints on the landing board you made?

[@FrederickDunn]

Glued with wood glue, sealed joints with 100% silicone.

[@stevebachman6661]

@@FrederickDunn Thank you so much! You are the best for someone like me, passionate about our pollinators, but feeling a bit overwhelmed trying to learn all the basics.

[@FrederickDunn]

@@stevebachman6661 You're very welcome, that's what I'm here for! :)

[@joeySI697]

I have noticed that some Beekeepers use either burlap or wood chips in their top box to stop excess moisture in the winter. Do you use anything for your hives? Also could you possibly do a video on what beneficial flowers or vegetables to plant for the bees?

[@FrederickDunn]

I've done a few pollinator plant videos and I'll link one here, I don't use any "filler" in my top boxes but I do have some insulated covers along with my new shims that I've built here on my own, those have thick wood (great insulator) partnered with an air space and the ability to feed when and if necessary. I've personally seen no benefit to wood ship attics for the bee-house. Air space with a bottom and top cover have served me very well. I don't want to eliminate moisture inside the hive, particularly on the interior side walls as the bees do use that to get a drink during temporary warmups. Keeping frost/condensation off of the interior of the Top Cover is pretty important as we never want the thaw to drip down directly on the bee cluster. I also never use the inverted style feeders inside the hive as they have a tendency to leak onto the bees.

[@weasleoop]

@@FrederickDunn I do not use inverted feeders eithier. Have you ever had mold on the area below your roof from condensation or mold on the end of the flow frame caps? I have seen that happen to people.

[@FrederickDunn]

@@weasleoop I have not have any mold.. that's where the importance of venting without drafting comes into play. Just like roof sheathing on a house, venting in the attic protects the interior surface of the roof from frosting, dampening and molding while the lower surface is actually the insulator for the interior. It's the same with beehives. Venting is important while reducing and preventing drafts. Mold gets going in dead damp cold spaces that aren't moving air.

[@weasleoop]

@@FrederickDunn Thank you for the answer. You self built some insulation inserts or just use that thick feeder shim?

[@FrederickDunn]

The thick wood is the insulation, I don't use any other insulating materials... :)

[@wtechboy18]

So you mentioned the medium size super is about 45 pounds of honey, and the large super is like 75 pounds of honey. For the size of colony that I guess would fill a 10-frame box and whatnot, is there a rule of thumb for how much honey the colony needs on reserve to make it through the winter in one piece? Or do you just need to keep an eye on it and make sure you feed them periodically when they start exhausting their own honey reserve towards the back end of winter? And second question, is there any real drawback to having "too much" honey reserve for your bees left on all year long?

[@FrederickDunn]

Hi Hunter, I'll be talking about this a little more on Friday. My general rule has been 100 lbs per colony for wintering in the north. But I've gotten away with much less through the years so I left on the brood box and medium full of honey this year and due to our weird warm-ups this year, they are on emergency feed. I will go back to the larger honey load for winter this year. You can always harvest the surplus in spring if there is any.

[@wtechboy18]

@@FrederickDunn Much obliged sir! I just found out my aunt lost both her hives this winter, in spite of an apparent excess of food and general lack of mites, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can so I don't have too many of the same setbacks.

[@FrederickDunn]

There are a number of issues which can cause colony loss during winter... including possible loss of the queen? Some colonies have the terrible habit of emitting a swarm at the end of the season without enough drones in the area to get a new virgin queen properly mated and that's just one possible cause... I hope your Aunt doesn't give up :)

[@wtechboy18]

She says she's sidelining her bee project for a bit until she can find a new mentor in her area, she had someone who was helping her but I think he moved out of state or some such. She did say that her queen apparently disappeared towards the end of the winter with no ready replacements though.

[@josephwoodall832]

Interesting stuff. I'm new to all this and I'm wondering why can't I store my bees in my basement over the winter?

[@FrederickDunn]

They need ready access to the outside for cleansing flights. If you want to keep bees inside, you may want to consider an observation hive?

[@josephwoodall832]

Do cleansing flights need to be particularly long? I have a big basement..

[@FrederickDunn]

@@josephwoodall832 You would have hundreds if not thousands of dead bees in your basement. That doesn't mean you can't try it, but I personally wouldn't go that route.

[@josephwoodall832]

I'll not try it. I may try installing some type of heater in each hive to help them through the winter I'm thinking maybe those electric rocks for reptiles rigged to a thermostat

[@FrederickDunn]

@@josephwoodall832 Don't forget to keep a log of what you do and what the results were :)

[@jeremyjames3895]

Could just buy a full deep and cut the bottom off to make medium and use cut off for feeder shim?

[@FrederickDunn]

You "could" but if you want a ready to go box for that, just buy a shallow super - supers come in Deep/Medium/Shallow - the shallow boxes are basically ready to go and you can just insert your bottom panel inside - screw and glue it in place and wallah... a feeder shim :)

[@jeremyjames3895]

@@FrederickDunn ah was kinda aiming toward the glamour beekeepers that want somewhat matching boxes.cut a deep to get a medium sized box and have the rest of the box material to make a shim and all similar appearing hive components

[@FrederickDunn]

@@jeremyjames3895 Do it... I don't want to impede anyone's personal expression when it comes to art or honey bees ;)

[@anthonymiller6187]

How do you get the wax off honeycomb pannels

[@FrederickDunn]

The bees remove it, we don't have to.

[@r0cketplumber]

Would it help the bees to add insulation panels on the outside of the hive to reduce the energy they need to expend to keep the brood warm? It seems to me that this would reduce their metabolic demand significantly. Insulation is less expensive than feed, and should reduce the stress on the colony, shouldn't it? Would you want to live in a cold house without insulation?

[@FrederickDunn]

The feed is free, since they store it themselves. I'm not a commercial beekeeper, so they keep their honey through winter. Insulation can cause interior levels of humidity to rise more than the wooden hive, so it's a balance. If I lived in a much colder climate, I would seriously consider insulating. But where I reside, they do fine with the wood hives alone. Insulating the cover is a help no matter what the circumstance. Bees fly out sooner on warmer winter days in uninsulated hives so they can do their cleansing flights. It's not such a straight forward consideration. Thicker wood would be better, but people have issues with the weight. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

[@r0cketplumber]

@@FrederickDunn Thanks for your thoughtful answer, I was pretty certain I didn't know enough to have a useful opinion, and you proved me right! Does the insulation cause high humidity by restricting ventilation? I would think that keeping the temp high would aid in drying, but reducing air exchange would keep water vapor and CO2 levels elevated. It's never as simple as a one-dimensional engineering problem.

[@craig6903]

Just a side note about plastic frames. Regardless of how much wax the manufacturers says the frames has, the more wax you rub on to the frames (using a homemade wax crayon), the faster the bees will draw it out.

[@FrederickDunn]

That's why I get the triple-dipped frames :) Acorn is the only one that offers that. Some beekeepers make their own melted wax dippers. I have some cakes of wax, but I'm lazy :)

[@craig6903]

Yes, I understand spreading wax is not fun. I learn a trick from a KZbinr by making a wax crayon by pouring wax into a toilet paper cardboard roll. It took a little effort to make it. But it make spreading wax so much easier. And the bees seem to draw out the frames faster than all the other frame

[@FrederickDunn]

@@craig6903 That's excellent! Did you do a comparison draw out test? Dipped waxed frames side-by-side with the crayon waxed frames to make that determination? What was the process you used? Thanks, this is interesting!

[@craig6903]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/i53Np6FmpJ6Aq6M This is link to David Burns video. His video is what convinced me to add wax. I noticed that all the frames that I added wax to the bees drew out beautiful and the frames I didn't they did not. Its a good experiment, because bees will normally draw out the center first. However, if the frames on the end has more wax the bees will choose to draw them out first. (The frames were Acorn double dip) I was too lazy to dip or paint my frames with wax myself , So that why I opted for making the crayon. I can apply it to a frame whenever I am working with my hive and avoid taking a frame to the house and melt wax

[@craig6903]

JC video on wax crayon is where I got the idea for making my own. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJnbZ4Kta9N9psU

[@0MVR_0]

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